[adrian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Hello all, There, I was showed that from the right handle one wire comes out and it goes underneath the petrol tank to the section which moves up and down if we rotate the accelerator. (please excuse this type of description as I do not know that what it is called which has a small screw to adjust the play from below)

That is the throttle pulley on the carburetor which actuates the butterfly valve and the spring loaded small screw is for adjusting the idle rpm.
As for the bifurcation of the throttle cable, just look under your seat and you will most probably find a slide switch being activated on rolling on the throttle. And finally, there is no need to be ashamed of anything as every single person in this forum was once a newbie.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

For the standard 350, what is the part description as well?

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Also is there any site, from where I can download the spare part manual in PDF format?
I am sorry for being such a pain, but please help me
Bikramjit.

I have a combined UCE parts manual in which the spare parts list of 350 uce and 500 efi alone is listed. The same is available for reference in the following site.
http://images.royalspares.com/part_m...d_uce_may2012/
regards adrian

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by adrian

That is the throttle pulley on the carburetor which actuates the butterfly valve and the spring loaded small screw is for adjusting the idle rpm.
As for the bifurcation of the throttle cable, just look under your seat and you will most probably find a slide switch being activated on rolling on the throttle. And finally, there is no need to be ashamed of anything as every single person in this forum was once a newbie.
http://images.royalspares.com/part_m...d_uce_may2012/
regards adrian

Thank you Adrian.
So for this weekend, the first thing will be to open the seat (something I am very much comfortable with) and then try to locate the slide.

Please tell me, regarding this throttle pulley or rather the Throttle cable assembly, what is the probability of it getting conked off at rides? Is it prone to breaks?

I just observed that that regarding the Speedo cable assembly, the part description for the B500 is 145980/d and for the others it is 145980/b. How different are they from actual model of cable? Any inputs what does this "b" and "d" stand for?

Thankfully the Clutch cables are all same

Best regards,
Bikramjit.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Please tell me, regarding this throttle pulley or rather the Throttle cable assembly, what is the probability of it getting conked off at rides? Is it prone to breaks?

The throttle cable does not snap as frequently as the clutch cable. But a dirty throttle cable can keep the throttle stuck in open position, which might not be desirable.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

I just observed that that regarding the Speedo cable assembly, the part description for the B500 is 145980/d and for the others it is 145980/b. How different are they from actual model of cable? Any inputs what does this "b" and "d" stand for?

No idea on the suffixes on the part numbers. The Bullet gurus in the forum might be able to help you out.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Thankfully the Clutch cables are all same
Best regards,
Bikramjit.

Please add a 17mm spanner to your toolkit. Otherwise you will be in for a surprise the first time you change the clutch cable.
regards adrian

[adrian]

Originally Posted by adrian

Please add a 17mm spanner to your toolkit. Otherwise you will be in for a surprise the first time you change the clutch cable.
regards adrian

Sorry for the back to back post.
Please read as add a 18 /19 mm double end spanner to your toolkit.
regards adrian

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

... I just observed that that regarding the Speedo cable assembly, the part description for the B500 is 145980/d and for the others it is 145980/b. How different are they from actual model of cable? Any inputs what does this "b" and "d" stand for?
...

Best regards,
Bikramjit.

I don't work for Royal Enfield so they may use letters in their part numbers in a different manner than other companies.

Many companies use letters to designate a design change for a product improvement, starting with "a".
Subsequent changes will advance the letter to the next one.

If the design change is not interchangeable with the previous design an entirely new number is used.

For instance, part number 333333c would be interchangeable with 333333b or 333333a.

333334 would not be interchangeable with 333333 even though it does the same task.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

...

If the design change is not interchangeable with the previous design an entirely new number is used.

...

Good morning Jim. Now that you have mentioned that they might be interchangeable, I will have a look at the other cable and see how different they are from the visual aspect. But obvious, I would not be able to judge the quality and other related factors, but still, its worth a venture.

I expect to get the Throttle cable sometime in the next week as dealership had to place the order with RE. I will also check the Speedo Cable, 145980/d (for B500, if available)and 145980/b (other Bullets)

[harishpr]

PLEASE HELP

Dear owners of DS.. I booked DS last august, and confirmed to get one in march.
While I was waiting for last 7 months, I read through several reports on the internet on the ownership experience to convince myself to wait.

the result of all such reading has resulted in a BIG DILEMMA, and will explain why.

Answers to the following will help me take an informed decision.

Booking DS was mostly by heart, though there is no need to have a 2nd bike at home.

Usage - it will be used mostly on weekends - 30kms over weekend and 150kms in a month. Perhaps, I may go on a long tour once a year (500kms kinda trip). For this type of low usage, will DS provide good experience? I mean, should the bike run every day for maintaining the condition?

There are several reports of rust, paints peeling off, blown fuse, lose electric switch, tyre rubbing the mud guard, etc... Are these issues still prevalent in New models? Reports such as blown fuse in the middle of night on a highway is scary!!!

There is a lot written on run-in period, and how to break gradually. I'm still not clear on how exactly to treat the bike during the run-in period!!! The more I read, the more l confused I get ; since it looks like an art that cannot be mastered easily.


Though my heart is sold on DS, the mind keeps cautioning me of all the above issues. Is it worth the trouble when quality isn't guaranteed?
I don't know, and I've been fighting this dilemma for last 3 months.
Now I need to take a decision on whether to buy in march or cancel the order..... Kindly share your opinion.

I'm totally new to RE and most of my questions may seem trivial or silly. Sorry for that.

[ArizonaJim]

I can only give my opinions about your questions but noticing that you already have one motorcycle I think that it will seldom if ever be used after you get your new DS.
Perhaps it is larger and more powerful than the DS but I suspect it is smaller. If this is the case, you are going to be amazed at the power the 500cc DS will deliver.

Not that the power is needed for most riding. In fact, the 500cc Royal Enfield UCE engine is quite happy just putting along at low speeds but, if it is ever wanted or needed the power is there at the twist of the wrist.

As for your planned 30 km weekend rides, don't be surprised if they turn into 60+ km rides. If you are like me, you will think of all sorts of places to ride just because they will give you an excuse to ride your RE.

Your DS should be quite happy resting during the week if that is what you plan to do with it. In fact, I feel that doing this is better than just going out and starting it and letting it run for a few minutes every day.
The fuel injection does require good battery voltage to work as it should and starting the engine with the electric starter does use battery power that a few minutes of running cannot replace.

As for peeling paint, the only area I've heard of this being a problem is the area inside the filler neck of the petrol tank. This is more of an esthetic issue than a real problem because the fuel pump has a large filter that will keep any potentially harmful paint chips out of the fuel injection system.
I also understand that all of the new DS motorcycles are being built at the new factory which has computer controlled painting systems that should eliminate any paint issues.

Blown fuses. Although I must admit that one of my fuses did fail once I attributed it to the quality of the fuse. After replacing it with aftermarket fuses I have not had a problem in over 2 years of riding over 19,000 km.

Rubbing mudguards? I have read that has been an issue on the new KTM 390's but I haven't heard of this being an issue on the Bullets unless the owner replaced the tires with oversize tires. That is the fault of the owner, not the motorcycle.

As for other issues, when a company builds over 80,000 machines a year, a few defective parts and slip ups in assembly is to be expected. That is why warranties are made and if any issue does show up on your DS, take it to the dealer and demand that they repair it. The factory pays them to do this so it should cost you nothing beyond a little time.

I think after you have your DS you will find that running it in is not a problem at all.

Just remember that you should not use a wide open throttle, or race the engine to high rpm's until the bike has over 1000 km's on it.
Try to vary the speed while riding so the engine parts get used to each other at different speeds. Enjoy the ride and do not forget to get the first oil change at 500km. This oil change is the most important one in the entire life of your motorcycle.

The short rides and long cool downs suggested in the past were very important for the old iron barrel engines but the new UCE's sleeved aluminum cylinder. vastly improved oil pump and fuel injection has pretty much made it a non issue with the new motorcycles.

Get your new DS. I know you will enjoy it even more than you think you will.

[harishpr]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Get your new DS. I know you will enjoy it even more than you think you will.

Thanks arizonajim. You have covered all the points and I'm happy to see the positive one.

[ImranShahnawaz]

Hi guys,

Need some guidence from the owners of tbts. Im facing real trouble while riding bike in rain, as water seeps-in the engine from spark plug area. Is it normal with all RE? What is the solution and how to rectify the issue? Even in rain I put my bike on center stand, but still the problem remains the same. Help me.

R,
Imran

[bblost]

Originally Posted by ImranShahnawaz

Hi guys,

Need some guidence from the owners of tbts. Im facing real trouble while riding bike in rain, as water seeps-in the engine from spark plug area. Is it normal with all RE? What is the solution and how to rectify the issue? Even in rain I put my bike on center stand, but still the problem remains the same. Help me.

R,
Imran

Do you mean, the water enters the engine itself?

[ImranShahnawaz]

Originally Posted by bblost

Do you mean, the water enters the engine itself?

No, not in engine. But in the hole where spark plug and an electric wire connected to the engine (pic attached). Bike starts jerking, stops while running, self-star doesn't work till water remains in those holes. The problem remains till water evaporates due to engine heat or I tilt my bike to drain water completely. Mechanic told it is normal with REs. But it is really a pain to ride in rain. Is this really normal with tbts?? Do I need to clean spark plug or change its cover? Help me out, im based in kerala.

Regards,
Imran

[BlrGuy]

Originally Posted by ImranShahnawaz

No, not in engine. But in the hole where spark plug and an electric wire connected to the engine (pic attached). Bike starts jerking, stops while running, self-star doesn't work till water remains in those holes. The problem remains till water evaporates due to engine heat or I tilt my bike to drain water completely. Mechanic told it is normal with REs. But it is really a pain to ride in rain. Is this really normal with tbts?? Do I need to clean spark plug or change its cover? Help me out, im based in kerala.

Regards,
Imran

Refer to my post on another site http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/moto...74/#post901282 explaining what needs to be done for getting rid of the water around the spark plugs.

[ImranShahnawaz]

Originally Posted by BlrGuy

Refer to my post on another site http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/moto...74/#post901282 explaining what needs to be done for getting rid of the water around the spark plugs.

Hi blrguy,
Thank you somuch for the post. Never notice this hole, tomorrow morning first thing ill clean this hole, after reaching kerala. Hoping my issues will resolve. Thanks.

Regards,
Imran

[ArizonaJim]

The only reason for water in the area of the spark plug to cause a mis-fire or stop the engine from running is if the high voltage needed by the spark plug is finding an easier path to ground than it uses to jump the gap on the spark plugs electrode.

I can't say for sure that this will help but, if it were my motorcycle one of the first things I would do would be to replace the spark plug cap(s). The metal and rubber shield that connects the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. While I was at it, I would also replace the large spark plug wires that run to the ignition coil(s).

These spark plug caps have rubber seals inside of them intended to prevent water from entering them.
If the seals are working correctly, the entire area can be under water and the engine should still run like nothing was wrong.

Over time, the rubber can become hardened and cracked from their constant contact with the very hot spark plug insulator. If a crack develops, water can penetrate it.
Once this happens, the electric current will travel thru the water to ground rather than causing the spark as it should. This will result in mis-fires or even cause the engine to quit running.

Another thing I would be sure to do is to apply a light coating of dielectric grease to the white ceramic spark plug insulator before installing my spark plug cap(s).
If a little gets on the electrical contact at the top of the spark plug it won't cause a problem but generally speaking, try to leave that threaded connection free of contaminants.

This non-conductive grease will seal any small places where the rubber doesn't fit tightly.

If I didn't have some of the dielectric grease, a light coating of automotive wheel bearing grease can be applied to the spark plugs ceramic insulator and it will work just about as well.

If replacing the spark plug cap and wire was not an option right now, removing the spark plug cap from the spark plug and applying a somewhat heavier coating of grease to the spark plug insulator might temporarily prevent water from getting into the high voltage area.
As I say, it may not cure the problem but it won't hurt anything.

Oh. Before I go I should mention that the alternate wheel bearing grease I mentioned is formulated to take the high temperatures which the spark plug insulator can reach. Grease intended for water pumps and other low temperature applications may tend to melt out of the area leaving them unprotected.