[basuroy]

My bike is a 1986 model 350cc bullet , the condition of my bike is(so that you can evaluate the issues)-
block is sleeved .
Engine Changes-
new carb - micarb india (cost me 1,550 bucks , fair price or not ? )
new clutchplate
clutch and throttle cable are new as well.

Now im going to explain my experience with the bike , while im not clear if they are intended/expected from the bike or not , they don't feel normal so here it goes-
I normally ride in 3rd gear at an avg speed of 45kph (engine feels comfortable), beyond this speed it is very hard to distinguish the beats from the exhaust even by people standing behind the bike(important).

The transmission feels same in the first 3 gears , however the 4th gear is significantly different from the first 3 , mellow and distinct exhaust note over a wider range of rpm and significantly less engine rattle. Is this usual behavior ? I mean 4th being completely different experience as compared to first 3.

Now I thought this was how it is(referring to my 3rd gear performance) so didnt pay attention to it until an event yesterday , while making a U turn , I stalled the motor . However when I started it , it felt like riding a completely different bike. In 3rd gear I hit 60kph+ speed and I could still distinguish the exhaust beats from the engine sound . The bike felt "free" and faster for lack of better adjectives as well.

I reached home and hit neutral but noticed the bike was idling at very high rpm , atleast twice of what is normally does . I switched off and kickstarted it again after 1 min and same idle rpm . Killed the motor and went back. Next day the bike was back to normal idle rpm & normal transmission behavior .

My question is how and why did the bike perform in such an unique manner after the stall ? My guess is something to do with the timing gears . Or is it an issue with the gearbox/clutch ?


Another issue -
It is 15cel here , the bike requires 7-10kicks before it comes to life. However it idles at a very sedate rpm and dies quickly unless i gently apply throttle . Been told that this due to cold , the bike idles at a higher rpm once it heats up and it can idle continuously then . Is this normal ?

Another weird thing i noticed , motor comes to life within 3 kicks if I leave fuel tap open but requires around 10 if I close tap. Using choke lever makes no difference. Faulty carb ? Should mention I have a good idea how to kickstart an enfield .

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

Hi Tgo,

UCEs definitely don't 'consume' the amount of oil that you are referring to in your post. Mine is a STD350UCE and it has been a fill-it-shut-it-forget-it kind of experience so far.

Do check for the engine oil-drain-bolt located below the engine. In case it is loose, you may be losing a few drops every now and then. Ask the mechanic to use lock-tite on the bolt.

On your doubt of piston-rings-being-worned: Have you seen dark coloured exaust? As per my mechanic, the exhaust gases would be BLUE in color if the piston rings are worn-out.


Cheers!

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

1) Check if there are any traces of oil in the exhaust tip. Smudge the inside of the exhaust tip with a finger, and if you get only black soot then the piston rings, cyl walls and all are perfectly fine. But if you get soot with oil, then it suggests a busted piston ring or bore.

2)Check if the clutch plates are fine. My ex-'09 TBTS had the same issue of oil consumption and was diagnosed with worn out clutch plates. Replaced all 6 of them and then it was fine since then. Check if you get jerky feeling when you ride in the friction zone(Half clutch).

IMHO, wheel bearings need not be replaced in such a short interval of time. Regarding the grinding feeling on the footpegs(especially while moving in neutral or on clutch) is due to the chain. Please check if the chain is clean and lubed. Dirty/stiff chain links will cause this drag or grinding feeling. Also do check if the sprockets are in good shape. If not replace them.

Thanks guys for the quick response..

Yes, I have checked the oil drain plug. It's tight and has no signs of leakage. Neither does the kicker shaft seal nor the sight glass. These have been the problem areas at one time or the other in my TBTS since I bought it.

There is no trace of oil or blue smoke in the exhaust even under hard acceleration.

Regarding the clutch change.. I had the clutch replaced last year in March (36,000 km). There were some really worn out plates which were taken out which I did see but I do not know if they were 6 in number. Since then I see a difference of ~200 rpm in 5th at a speed of 80 kmph. And the play in the clutch lever is much more controlled in between 6 month services.

The chain is fine and I got a new chain and sprocket kit installed in October 2012 (33,000 km).

On a separate note it could also be a psychological issue. I still love riding my bike and look forward to it. But in the last 4-5 months it just seems to have become very rough, vibes in the handlebars making ones palms numb, the main stand touching the road while turning on hilly roads, the tail light cluster rattling away, some grinding here some clatter there. It seems grossly under powered when riding with a pillion.

Does changing a worn out front tire reduce the handlebar vibrations like it makes the ride more supple when done on the rear?

[sriku]

I have an '88 Std 350. So would like to opine based on about 15 years of living with it.

First things first, please read Gurunandan's excellent articles here. They will serve well in your ownership for sure.

4th gear is the overdrive, and will lack the heavy torque (relatively) that you get in 2-3. 3rd is great for tooling around in the city but is unfortunately short enough that you may need to down shift to second in stop and go traffic. At all costs, avoid slipping the clutch in 3rd to pick up momentum.

A slightly higher idle after a duration of riding is normal for a points adjusted Bullet. This will settle back to the configured idling AFR set. As far as I understand the tech, this is expected, and not abnormal. A way of compensating for higher AFR when the bike is not stand still. Mine does not idle too high after a brief ride though, so you may need to check and adjust your points. From what you describe, I get the impression your bike is running too rich, may want to clean the carb, air filter, check the spark plug condition (brown/black/white) and get the AFR adjusted by a seasoned mechanic.

Regarding the other points, I have nil experience living in cold conditions, so will leave it to the other guys here to pontificate.

Regards,
Sriku

[basuroy]

Hey thanks for the reply and the link

I should mention my riding conditions -
only on level and relatively empty roads meaning very less up or downshifting . Have rarely used the motorcycle for city traffic , and never slip clutch in 3rd or even 2nd gear from standstill.

my major issue is why did I have such an unique experience in the 3rd gear after stalling my motorcycle as explained in the original post , whether it is intended behavior or not , it was certainly a better experience .


It is true my bike might be running too rich though , while the plug is brownish last time i checked(about a week back) , the milleage I'm getting is around 25kmpl while the mech reckons I should get atleast 30 , prolly 35 considering my riding evironment. Thing is I don't know much about the motorcycle and most bullet mechs are just quacks without any technical know-how . So I have to explain to him in a technical manner what I feel is wrong for him to correct that.

Carb , clutchplate and exhaust are new(regular short bottle exhaust , not free flow).

[Majumdarda]

Good morning guys.

One of my friends is getting his B500 from a RE showroom at Navi Mumbai

ROYAL ENFIELD NAVI MUMBAI BRAND STORE
Plot No.16, Sector - 1,Sion - PanvelHighway,NerulNavi Mumbai 400 706
Sales Landline:
022-65617698/27700501
Sales Mobile:
7715846000
Sales Email:
asubramanium@royalenfield.com

But surprisingly, the dealer over there suggests the price of the B500 to be approx 152000 whereas in Pune it is 162000.

Can such a huge deviation in price occur in the same state? Please advise.

[Leepower]

Guys, how do you store a bullet in the garage for two months without damaging its battery??? Will a battery charge last for two months if you disconnect its wires? It is a friend's 72 Bull. He is going abroad for two months.
PS: It is his late father's ride and he doesn't like the idea of anyone riding it besides him

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Leepower

Guys, how do you store a bullet in the garage for two months without damaging its battery??? Will a battery charge last for two months if you disconnect its wires? It is a friend's 72 Bull. He is going abroad for two months.
PS: It is his late father's ride and he doesn't like the idea of anyone riding it besides him

Yes the charge will be stored in the battery if it is disconnected. Else ask someone to just start the bike abs lwt it idle for 5 minuted every 3-4 days which will keep the bike running so the battery. But of your friend doesn't like someone touching the bike other than him then you disconnect the battery.

Anurag.

[thumpingheart]

Hi guys. I own a TBTS. I had been for a lond trip to konkan recently and after the trip my bike has become jerky at the front wheel. It's not the engine for sure and the bike runs very well but the front wheel seems to wobble and feels to have developed a slight play in both longitudinal as well as lateral direction. Feels jerky on acceleration and deceleration.

Got the front wheel straightened out from my mechanic and the problem seemed to be gone. Felt more stable and planted and the turn in too became the quicker like before.

But as I went through an unavoidable pothole today morning the bike went back to its loose and wobbly feeling.
The mechanic had suggested changing bearings on the front wheel but later said it was not required. Will that solve the problem? The wheel did wobble when I put the bike on centre stand and tried to shake it.

Is there a possibility that the front suspension is affected? Will be going back to my mechanic today or tomorrow.

Kindly advice if anyone can. Thanks

[tharian]

Originally Posted by thumpingheart

Hi guys. I own a TBTS. I had been for a lond trip to konkan recently and after the trip my bike has become jerky at the front wheel. It's not the engine for sure and the bike runs very well but the front wheel seems to wobble and feels to have developed a slight play in both longitudinal as well as lateral direction. Feels jerky on acceleration and deceleration.

Got the front wheel straightened out from my mechanic and the problem seemed to be gone. Felt more stable and planted and the turn in too became the quicker like before.

But as I went through an unavoidable pothole today morning the bike went back to its loose and wobbly feeling.
The mechanic had suggested changing bearings on the front wheel but later said it was not required. Will that solve the problem? The wheel did wobble when I put the bike on centre stand and tried to shake it.

Is there a possibility that the front suspension is affected? Will be going back to my mechanic today or tomorrow.

Kindly advice if anyone can. Thanks

Get the trewing done for both the wheels. Probably there is a very slight rim bend which cannot be seen.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by thumpingheart

But as I went through an unavoidable pothole today morning the bike went back to its loose and wobbly feeling.
The mechanic had suggested changing bearings on the front wheel but later said it was not required. Will that solve the problem? The wheel did wobble when I put the bike on centre stand and tried to shake it.

Is there a possibility that the front suspension is affected? Will be going back to my mechanic today or tomorrow.

Check the wheel bearing and get the trueing for the wheel done once again. Check the wheel for roundness and if possible get the balancing done too.

Hope the forks are not bent after the pothole hit, check the straightness of the forks or may be the cone set is affected here with the impact.

Anurag.

[ArizonaJim]

The condition of the rim is easily checked by raising the wheel off of the ground and slowly spinning it. There should be almost no side to side movement as the wheel rotates. If there is, it can usually be removed by adjusting the spoke tension.
If the rim appears to have a visible bend or kink in it, replacement is the only fix.

Both the front and rear wheels use ball bearings which should allow the wheels to easily rotate while permitting no side to side movement or shake at all.

These bearings have virtually no radial or side to side clearance in them and are not adjustable. They can fail due to shock or overloads which damage the balls or the precision races the balls roll in.

If either wheel can be moved sideways with respect to the front fork or rear swing arm the bearings are damaged and should be replaced as soon as possible.

The steering head is also supported on ball bearings.
These bearings are adjustable and need to be checked every 12,000 km or sooner if the motorcycle was subjected to heavy shock loads.

Adjusting these bearings requires loosening the large nut right below the handlebars but it does take some knowledge of how tight the adjustment nut(s) should be made so I do not recommend the task for most home mechanics.

Have a trusted mechanic check it out.

[Majumdarda]

Some Inputs please.

I have already brought a clutch cable just for emergency, but now I want to have one Accelerator cable as well.

Below is the description as available from the spare parts brochure. Challenge is that it is not available in any of the RE stores.



I think it should be Throttle Cable Assembly (570896/b). Can RE owners please advise if this is the the proprietary cable for B500 or does other models (like Classic 500 etc) uses the same cable too? Reason being "accelerator cable for bullet 500 is not available, sir". I suspect that the store owners are giving me the above statement just by knowing the model and not the actual part number.

Also please advise what is Control Cable Kit? Is it something a rider should have in his possession lest he gets stuck someplace? How frequent it is required to be replaced? (In other words, does this particular cable breaks off in rides and is that something which stops the motorcycle from moving ahead)

Another cable is the "Speedo Cable Complete Assembly". I think it is the odometer cable. Only drawback if this breaks is that one will not be able to calculate the distance covered (and speculate when fuel is needed). Is this correct or there might be other repercussions as well?

Lastly, the part number for the Spare parts manual for Bullet 500 is 888212. Is this available for download in PDF format at some sites?

Best regards,

Bikramjit.

[adrian]

@Majumdarda :
Control cable kit : A kit that contains the three control cables used in your bullet. (Yes, the all in one pack).
As for the accelerator cable, the one used in the EFI 500 won't suit you. In carbed version bullets, one lead goes to the carburetor and another one goes to the TPS. In short the accelerator cable in the carburetor versions bifurcates into two.
regards adrian

[Rennjit]

^ so cable from std/ electra 350 should match, spending a few minutes with the mech could clear this i hope.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by adrian

@Majumdarda :
Control cable kit : A kit that contains the three control cables used in your bullet. (Yes, the all in one pack).
As for the accelerator cable, the one used in the EFI 500 won't suit you. In carbed version bullets, one lead goes to the carburetor and another one goes to the TPS. In short the accelerator cable in the carburetor versions bifurcates into two.
regards adrian

Originally Posted by Rennjit

^ so cable from std/ electra 350 should match, spending a few minutes with the mech could clear this i hope.

Hello all,

Thank you for your prompt responses. We had a small technical session of some sort at one of the dealerships over here sometime back. There, I was showed that from the right handle one wire comes out and it goes underneath the petrol tank to the section which moves up and down if we rotate the accelerator. (please excuse this type of description as I do not know that what it is called which has a small screw to adjust the play from below)

[the same thing is present in my old pulsar as well, and we use that to regulate the idle from outside].

I was told that it is the accelerator cable (I hope I am right), and I did not see it bifurcated to any other point. It was one single cable with two ends, as mentioned above (no, I am not confusing this with the clutch cable).

Can you please check what is the part description of your 500 EFI for this accelerator cable?

For the standard 350, what is the part description as well?

Also is there any site, from where I can download the spare part manual in PDF format?

I am sorry for being such a pain, but please help me

Bikramjit.