[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

3.50 are available. If not MRF, try Dunlop UniGrip 3.50. The button design will go will with the single seat set up.

19 inch Dunlops aren't available here.Decided to go with the Meteors.Looks quite good I must say.Haven't ridden it all that much.Just to the dealership and back to the mechanic.A portion of the chain cover will have to be removed.Else the tyre will scrub once it gets run in.

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

I have been facing some..

Has the bike had any accidents recently?Also this shake that you mentioned,Does your handle bar shake or is it a feeling of unstability on the rear of the motorcycle?

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by B O V

Has the bike had any accidents recently?Also this shake that you mentioned,Does your handle bar shake or is it a feeling of unstability on the rear of the motorcycle?

Nope, no accident brother (knock on wood). I will be seeing my mechanic this weekend. I put up this query so that I have a list of all probable causes / corresponding checks and ensure he is not cutting corners with the testing

The shake is very pronounced on the front, nothing at the rear. It's a push of sorts. The bike veers left. Very similar to riding in a strong crosswind

[Abhishekjp]

All.. My 2 years old classic 350 engine had some knocking sound since last few weeks and it was clear that there is something wrong with it. When my mechanic drove it today, he also felt the same. After opening the engine, he found that there was a play in the connector. To fix this, engine needs to be sent to a turner who will be putting the bearing. My mechanic has quoted 12-14k for this fix. Can you all pls let me know if anyone has countered this issue with their UCE classic 350 engine. My bike has done only 10k on odo and i think to its early to have this kind of issue.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Urban_Nomad

The shake is very pronounced on the front, nothing at the rear. It's a push of sorts. The bike veers left. Very similar to riding in a strong crosswind

Took the bike over to my mechanic. The issue was diagnosed to be a couple of faulty bearings at the rear. Got them replaced. Damages -250 bucks

I could not test it at high speeds though (post the fix). The bike was leaking oil and the culprit was a blown breather pipe. He did not have one to replace so I ll need to go over this weekend again to get that fixed. I was advised not to push it beyond 50-60 else the leak might get worse.

Anyhow. I did the "hands free" riding test n still the bike veers left. Like cars, can the bike wheels also be taken for alignment?

[ArizonaJim]

If the road has a 'crown', that is, the center of the road is much higher than the sides in order to drain rain off, it can cause a motorcycle to veer from a straight line of travel.

Usually, the crown will cause the motorcycle to veer towards the high area. In India where you drive/ride on the left side of the road, that would mean the motorcycle will try to move to the right.

With your motorcycle's wanting to drift to the left it indicates the rear tyre is not aligned with the front tyre.

To track correctly, the rear tyre should be trying to push the motorcycle directly towards the place where the front tyre touches the ground when the bike is resting on a level surface when the handlebars are pointing straight ahead.

A good mechanic will use a long straight pole (or string) placed against the lower sides of the rear tyre. If the rear wheel is correct, the forward part of the pole will lay just outside the side of the front tyre.
If the front of the pole is interfering with, or pointing well away from the front tyre it indicates the rear wheel is out of alignment. This check should be done on both sides of the motorcycle.

The Royal Enfields use a 'snail' adjuster on the rear wheel to adjust the chain tightness and the wheel alignment.
Some people think the snails on each side of the trailing arm should engage the same number of notches with the pin in the side of the trailing arms. This is often a bad assumption.

Because of the many different things that effect the wheels alignment, it is quite common for the notch in the snail engaging the pin on one side to be different from the notch in the snail that is engaging the pin on the other side when the rear wheel is properly aligned.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Abhishekjp

All.. My 2 years old classic 350 engine had some knocking sound since last few weeks and it was clear that there is something wrong with it. When my mechanic drove it today, he also felt the same. After opening the engine, he found that there was a play in the connector. To fix this, engine needs to be sent to a turner who will be putting the bearing. My mechanic has quoted 12-14k for this fix. Can you all pls let me know if anyone has countered this issue with their UCE classic 350 engine. My bike has done only 10k on odo and i think to its early to have this kind of issue.

This is a known issue with the old 500s, especially the A500 or the Machismo. The big end bearing fails and the engine makes a loud noise when trying to increase speed and does not go above 40-50 kmh.
From your description, it sounds the same. The quote is around the same, it works out to above 10k for sure.
Surprised it happened on a UCE350 run only so much.
Since the engine is already open, may as well finish the job and make sure your mech uses a good part which will last.

Regards.

[hiren959]

I have got my new Bull, Classic 350 on 31st Oct 2013. In last 26 days I have reached only 270km so far.
The problems are, during bumps or turns when I press the clutch, engine suddenly stops with a misfire, not every time but quite a few times. RPM changes to very high when the engine becomes hot after a drive of more than 5 km or so. Then after some clutch movement it becomes normal, but very high again in the neutral position.
And false neutral is the common problem with new bikes I guess.
Though I believe that all these problems will be solved after first service of 500kms.
The mod I am planning is Glasswool Goldstar silencer, RD Style Extended handle bar, pls guide me on these.

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by hiren959

The problems are, during bumps or turns when I press the clutch, engine suddenly stops with a misfire, not every time but quite a few times. RPM changes to very high when the engine becomes hot after a drive of more than 5 km or so.

Check for cracks/ loose connection in rubber hose intake and outlet of carburetor. Also check for and damages in PAV (if equipped) connection tube.

[hiren959]

Thanks for your tips Alok, I will check them.
What is PAV? Ca you please elaborate on this?

[Abhishekjp]

Originally Posted by tharian

This is a known issue with the old 500s, especially the A500 or the Machismo. The big end bearing fails and the engine makes a loud noise when trying to increase speed and does not go above 40-50 kmh.
From your description, it sounds the same. The quote is around the same, it works out to above 10k for sure.
Surprised it happened on a UCE350 run only so much.
Since the engine is already open, may as well finish the job and make sure your mech uses a good part which will last.

Regards.

Thanks mate.. i got my bike back. Engine noise have reduced considerably. But i hope that the fix will last for long. My mechanic has advised not to exceed 50 km/h at least for 100 kilometers and treat it like a new engine. I would request all UCE 350 users to share their experience with engine noise and the fix.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

In India where you drive/ride on the left side of the road, that would mean the motorcycle will try to move to the right.

With your motorcycle's wanting to drift to the left it indicates the rear tyre is not aligned with the front tyre.

To track correctly, ...

Thank you Jim! The procedure you have laid out seems simple enough for me to try at home and check results

Query - Regarding the "crown" on the road : In India; we drive on the left hand side. Would the road not be "tilted" towards the left than the right. Riding on the left would mean the pavement / (imaginary) drainage to be on the left too. If the road was angled towards the right (where the road divider / median sits) would that not mean accumulation of water on the road itself; alongside the median?

But I do not think the road's curvature is the issue. I also ride my cousin's Yamaha from time to time. It is ROCK SOLID anytime I let go of the handlebars and tracks dead straight!

Will try out your suggestion. Thanks again!

[ArizonaJim]

It is too complicated to go into here but a motorcycle tends to turn in the direction it leans toward. This has to do with how the tyre responds to the surface.

With the motorcycle in a vertical, non-turning attitude, if the road surface on the right side of the bike is higher than the road on the left side, the tyre responds as though it is leaning towards the higher (right) side and attempts to turn the motorcycle in that direction.

Here is a link to a more complete description of aligning the rear wheel.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ml#post3280661

[man_of_steel]

Guys,

My friend's TBTS is facing an issue. While kick starting, we are getting a whining sound from the starter motor as if it is working and the bike refuses to start. Now the Sprag Cutch on the bike is faulty and we know that. But don't want to spend another 4-5k for its repair. Now, is this starting trouble due to the sprag clutch not dis-engaging? If so, is there any remedy apart from replacing the sprag clutch. Now the bike is refusing to start after several kicks. It usually starts in a single kick even while cold starting.

Thanks.

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by hiren959

What is PAV? Ca you please elaborate on this?

The part shown in circle is PAV (Pulse Air Valve), imposed for compliance of Euro II pollution norms in 3 box REs. Beyond this there is a rubber tube, which connects this PAV to intake hose. Many times this PAV get choke or rubber get torn at ends and causes mistuning.

[hiren959]

Thanks Alok for giving the details about PAV, but I think it is not present in Classic 350.