[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Hello Team,

noticed something strange today morning, when applying the front brakes, there is a small / slight amount of shudder and then the brake grips the disk, is this OK ? or will this need to be checked , please advice.

Do you experience the shudder on the whole handle bar or the brake lever alone?

If its the whole handlebar then you may have to get the steering stem nut tightened.

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Do you experience the shudder on the whole handle bar or the brake lever alone?

If its the whole handlebar then you may have to get the steering stem nut tightened.

Hi man_of_steel,

The judder is felt only on the brake lever, I will observe it today again when I ride home but am pretty sure its just the brake lever.

Regards,
Jimmy

[gearbox]

God Damn, I went to a petrol bunk today and got the air pressure checked, the front tyre had 25 PSI and the Rear Tyre had 55, Yeah its right, it had 55PSI, I was shocked.
I have now set the air pressure to 22F and 32Rear, is that right pressure?

I think this explains why the bike was moving more towards the right when the handle was left alone while riding.

Originally Posted by gearbox

I have now set the air pressure to 22F and 32Rear, is that right pressure?

Yes, as specified in the owner's manual for pillion-riding. I also keep the same pressures. However, for solo-riding, 20F and 30R are sufficient, again as specified in the owner's manual.

[ariendj]

Originally Posted by gearbox

I have now set the air pressure to 22F and 32Rear, is that right pressure?

As per the manual,the tire pressures are as following.

[gearbox]

Originally Posted by J.Ravi

Yes, as specified in the owner's manual for pillion-riding. I also keep the same pressures. However, for solo-riding, 20F and 30R are sufficient, again as specified in the owner's manual.

Thank You Ravi, That helps a lot.

Originally Posted by ariendj

As per the manual,the tire pressures are as following.

Thanks Man, I want to keep 22/32 since i would not want to go back and forth to the get the air pressure adjusted every now and then, I am a 6ft2inches tall and close too 100Kg's in weight. So i guess 22/32 would be fine for both pillion and solo riding for me. I still have to see how it goes.

More than likely, I will get the air pressure checked again at another place where I know the pressure gauge is maintained and calibrated often near my place. Hope I have the right pressure.

I now feel that bike is much more stable, as in in my control, I used to have issues with a pillion riding, at low speeds i had to work hard to have the bike go in one straight line since the pressure was too high, the handle felt very lights, in fact the overall bike felt very very light. I could feel the difference right away after i got the pressure adjusted.

[mobius 1]

Hi Bulleters,

Need a little help, I am a first time bullet owner having a classic 350. Till now i have driven 1500 Kms and lately after a spell rains i am experiencing problems in starting and a slight decrease in performance. So I planning to clean the spark plug and air filter of my bike .

Can you please guide me to a step by step DIY guide with pictures etc for these procedures ?

Also please share any warnings or tips that should be taken care of while doing the same.

The procedures are given in the owner's manual, but without illustrations they sound utterly alien to me !
Please Help.

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Hi man_of_steel,

The judder is felt only on the brake lever, I will observe it today again when I ride home but am pretty sure its just the brake lever.

Regards,
Jimmy

Hello Friends,

another issue seems to have come up yesterday night.

was riding back from office in the night and i will try to describe the observations as below.
1.the front end of the bike was having a wired vibration
2.i got down checked all items (fender / brake / caliper etc) but nothing was loose, however at certain rpm the vibrations were prominent , otherwise not there at all
3.vibrations more prominent when braking or reeving at low speeds
4.The front of the bile feels kind of loose , not sure how else to describe it
5.the overall driveability is not affected however the looseness is prominent and not very confidence inspiring

Apologies for not coming up with a concrete observation however hope the above helps in someway

[gearbox]

Hey Everyone,

I need a quick advice. I ordered for the IND HSN Plate, Its an Electra that I will use the plate on, Since the back Plate is attached to the Rear light, I will either have to drill in holes there to get the new plate secured, or maybe will have to use some kind of a sticker to stick it on there. Personally I would not want to drill holes in the existing back plate.

Was wondering if anyone here can help me out with a better way to do it, without drilling holes please. I will be getting the plates this evening, any quick response would be highly appreciated.

[Warwithwheels]

Originally Posted by gearbox

..Was wondering if anyone here can help me out with a better way to do it, without drilling holes please. I will be getting the plates this evening, any quick response would be highly appreciated.

How about a 3M auto grade professional adhesive tape? You need to just make sure that water doesn't enter the gap between the plate and the body for a permanent bonding.

[gearbox]

Originally Posted by Warwithwheels

How about a 3M auto grade professional adhesive tape? You need to just make sure that water doesn't enter the gap between the plate and the body for a permanent bonding.

Attachment 1161528

Attachment 1161529

This is exactly something I was looking for, I guess sealing the tape to prevent water can be done, I have some wide tapes with me that I use for painting some enclosures for the guitar effects pedals I make, I am sure they should do a good job at blocking any water into the tape.

Thanks a ton warwithwheels!!!!!

[bhasker]

Originally Posted by gearbox

Hey Everyone,

I need a quick advice. I ordered for the IND HSN Plate, Its an Electra that I will use the plate on, Since the back Plate is attached to the Rear light, I will either

Hello gearbox,

I would suggest you that rather than going for any adhesives or tapes, you better get them fixed using non-removable snap locks screws, as specified in the rules for fixing High Security Number Plate (HSNP). My 2013 Thunderbird 350 had been bought and registered at Chandigarh. Chandigarh RTO is one of the first RTOs in India to implement and enforce fixing of HSNPs. RTO authorities have given the contract for fixing HSNPs to a private firm. They fix the HNSPs in the RTO premises itself. The owner pays an amount of Rs. 79 for two HSNP for motorcycles. Fixing of HSNP with non-removable requires a special tool which is almost 2ft in length. Once you fix the screws it is not possible to remove them. I have seen many vehicles in Bangalore with HSNPs, but they do not have the non-removable screws, all of them are either fixed using normal nuts or adhesives/tapes The non removable screws play 50% of the role of this security concept. Whereas all the vehicle in Chandigarh with HSNPs fixed by RTO comply with all the rules and are the most genuine implementation.
In my case, the company fitted front number plate of my Thunderbird was attached to the suspensions forks and the HSNP was fixed on that number plate itself using non removable screws. Whereas, the rear number plate was removable, like other motorcycles, and the HSNP was directly fitted to the mudguard part. You can check out the following pictures to understand more clearly.

Cheers !

The rear HSNP. The front part of the screw is shown. It is directly attached to the bike's body.



The rear HSNP. The back part of the screw is shown and how it is attached to the body.



The front HSNP. The back part of the screw is shown. It is attached on the factory fitted number plate.



The front HSNP. The front part of the screw is shown.

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Do you experience the shudder on the whole handle bar or the brake lever alone?

If its the whole handlebar then you may have to get the steering stem nut tightened.

man_of_steel You ROCK !!

The nut was loose somehow by itself. Visited Kunal's workshop and it was a 2 min job.

I still have to learn a lot about by Bull and valuable tips like these are the stepping stone ahead . thanks again.

Regards,
Jimmy

[Jimmy_u]

Hello Members,

came across this link today, posting it here for everyone and in case someone wants to add feedback for this.

http://autoparts24x7.com/images/part_manual/

[chotu_r]

My TBTS' front disc brakes have been giving me quite a headache in addition to sore fingers recently. The brake lever has become rock hard to press, what used to be progressive motion has now changed to a two step motion, in order of increasing hardness. Sometimes i feel like its a drum brake!

After consulting the internet, i was fairly sure that either the brake piston is getting jammed or the brake fluid is the culprit. Since it was due anyway, i replaced the brake fluid with DOT3 certified fluid. The previous fluid which was filled up at ASC was yellow in colour, but the DOT3 fluid which i purchased was red in colour. It served me quite well for a month or so, but now the dreaded rock hard brake lever syndrome has returned. I am fairly sure that my mech might not have pumped out all the old brake fluid and i had made him open the brake calliper which didn't look like it had accumulated any rust. I think i will replace the brake fluid again, but should the lever become hard within just a month? I am tempted to fill DOT5 fluid, but i read somewhere that mixing DOT3/4 and DOT 5 makes a gooey mess. Please help gurus.