[KkVaidya]

Yesterday I decided to change the Engine Oil on my 2002 Bullet. Once the oil was drained, the drain plug refused to fit tight
Now it is standing there without any oil & I am confused on what to do next. I use a box spanner so it is not that the bolt has rounded off & the grooves also look ok. I suspect the grooves on the inside of the sump (the female) have worn off. If that is the case, do i have to re-bore? And for that i will have to tow the motorcycle as I cannot ride without oil.
I am in a big mess.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I suspect the grooves on the inside of the sump (the female) have worn off. If that is the case, do i have to re-bore? And for that i will have to tow the motorcycle as I cannot ride without oil.
I am in a big mess.

If the inside groove is the problem then you will have to re-thread! Thats quite a job as you will have to take the engine off, If I am not wrong.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

If the inside groove is the problem then you will have to re-thread! Thats quite a job as you will have to take the engine off, If I am not wrong.

Helicoiling can be done the spot bro. Routine affair. Why would you need to take the engine off for something as simple as that?

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Helicoiling can be done the spot bro. Routine affair. Why would you need to take the engine off for something as simple as that?

Seems like it was a wrong piece of info from one of the mechanics in my old garage. He said the engine needs to be taken out from frame to do re-threading to be done from lathe. Thanks for the info Doc.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Seems like it was a wrong piece of info from one of the mechanics in my old garage. He said the engine needs to be taken out from frame to do re-threading to be done from lathe. Thanks for the info Doc.

Please beware of such con men. First time I am hearing of this. Engine down for helicoil.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Helicoiling can be done the spot bro. Routine affair. Why would you need to take the engine off for something as simple as that?

yes I had something like that on my mind. I was also shocked to read that engine needs to be removed for re-threading. Was about to write but got back-to-back quotes.

Is helicoil same as re-threading? Is that one time use or i can use it as many times. I suppose I will need to use another bolt after re-threading?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

yes I had something like that on my mind. I was also shocked to read that engine needs to be removed for re-threading. Was about to write but got back-to-back quotes.

I suppose I will need to use another bolt after re-threading?

Nope. Stock bolt can be used. No need for oversize bolt. But depends on the degree of the slip. On of the drain bolts on my 500 has also sadly been helicoiled thanks to the incompetence of an inexperiencd butcher (self styled mechanic).

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Nope. Stock bolt can be used. No need for oversize bolt. But depends on the degree of the slip. On of the drain bolts on my 500 has also sadly been helicoiled thanks to the incompetence of an inexperiencd butcher (self styled mechanic).

Doc, Can you please briefly tell me the process of Helicoiling. When I did a search on this, it was said that the old threads will be drilled off and a new steel/alloy thread will be inserted. Is this the procedure?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Doc, Can you please briefly tell me the process of Helicoiling. When I did a search on this, it was said that the old threads will be drilled off and a new steel/alloy thread will be inserted. Is this the procedure?

Yup. Except nothing as drastic is drilling is done - especially not in soft aluminum. They use different taps, and a new thread groove is tapped (cut) out of the soft alloy, and a new hard metal sleeve in the form of a thread inserted (tapped) in using the opposite screwing in (tightening) direction.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Yup. Except nothing as drastic is drilling is done - especially not in soft aluminum. They use different taps, and a new thread groove is tapped (cut) out of the soft alloy, and a new hard metal sleeve in the form of a thread inserted (tapped) in using the opposite screwing in (tightening) direction.

Got the idea. Thanks.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Helicoiling can be done the spot bro. Routine affair. Why would you need to take the engine off for something as simple as that?

Hi,
Can't expect every roadside mechanic to know of Helicoils.
Or the mech just might have been pulling a fast one!

Regards
Sutripta

[avigster]

Originally Posted by avigster

Guys, I have a 2002 AVL Thunderbird that has a free flow exhaust on it coupled with K&N-ru-0200. Immediately after the air filter was installed, it was noticed that the bike would miss on second or third gear & be reluctant to speed up. Stock Carb on the bike is BS26. Main jet was 110, pilot I think is 17.5. In absence of the stock of a bigger main jet, my mechanic drilled the main jet to be of a bigger rsize -& issues related to missing were resolved. I am based out of bangalore, & I could easily take my bike to 80 in the third gear after that. spark plug indication gave that the bike was running on the leaner side, yet there was no popping of the exhaust when de-throttling. When the carburetor was opened for servicing last time, my mechanic changed some settings on the stock carb, & it is even reluctant to go on third gear now. It seems that the engine flutters. Spark plug reading says it is running extremely rich. Please note that I have an iridium plug on my bike, & my mech suggests me to use a normal plug. When I asked him what was changed during the carb service, he tells me he raised the needle.
my questions :-
1) Can a BS32 ( Pulsar 220's stock carb ) be fitted on AVL 350 without any issues?
2) Can a VM 28 ( standard 500s carb ) be fitted without any issues?
3) my mechanic tells me that BS26 is not great for performance at all. must I reset the needle to have a leanest mixture & then try it?
4) must I increase my pilot jet to a bigger size? is it important to increase the pilot as the main jet goes up?
Thanks..

If I may ask again,

[john doe]

Originally Posted by avigster

If I may ask again,

Since you are in Blore, why not email this to Gurunandan and ask him for his advice and even better, an appt.?

[ArizonaJim]

KkVaidya
There are two ways of fixing a drain plug hole that has lost its threads.

One of these involves buying a special new oversize drain plug that will cut new threads into the aluminum as it is screwed in place.
These look much like a standard drain plug until you look at the threads (grooves).
Rather than having plain threads, these have a sharp groove axially cut from the end towards the hexagon head. This groove will cut new, oversize threads into the hole as it is screwed in place.

The weakness of using one of these is the new threads are still made out of the engines aluminum and each time they are installed they tend to cut additional material away from the hole eventually wearing it out.
The threads they cut are usually not standard size threads so it isn't as simple as buying a slightly larger replacement plug to prevent this.
These special drain plugs may or may not be available in India.

The second repair is the one mentioned, the use of a Helicoil thread insert.
The insert itself is a tightly wound coil which is made out of steel. It has standard size screw threads on the inside and oversize threads on the outside.
The threads for the outside must be cut with a tap, a special fluted tool which is screwed into the damaged hole. Doing this, the sharp cutting edges of the flutes cuts new threads into the housing.
Once the hole is rethreaded with this tap, the helicoil is screwed in place using a special tool that fits the inside of the insert.
After screwing the new helicoil in place, the tab at the bottom end of the insert is broken off and removed to allow the drain plug to screw freely into place.

When installing a helicoil it is a good idea to use a thread locking compound to keep the insert from unscrewing as the drain plug is inserted and removed.

The steel helicoils threads are stronger than the original aluminum threads and once installed it should last a lifetime before it wears out.

Although tapping the new threads for a helicoil and installing one can be done by a person with mechanical knowledge, I recommend having it done by a good mechanic who has done this repair many times.

Neither of these repairs requires the engine to be removed from the motorcycle frame.
avigster
I'm not familiar with the carburetors you mentioned but be advised that although replacing the stock carburetor with a larger one can improve the maximum power a engine can deliver, they also often result in poorer throttle response and poorer slow speed riding.

Changing the new carburetors original jets (both pilot and main) is almost always required to restore the motorcycles ease of riding and starting.

A mechanic who has done these carburetor replacements many times may have a good idea of which jets will be required to gain any total power while keeping the engines smoothness at lower speeds.
A mechanic (or home hobbyist) who has little or no experience can play for days changing jets and trying something new.
With two jets and several different needle valves to try, the permutations and combinations possible are large indeed.

[mobius 1]

Hi guys,

I am now an owner of a brand new Classic 350.
But as this is my first time owning a bike and also my first encounter with a RE, i have a few queries regarding the starting procedure of the cold engine in the morning !

1. Should the first start in the morning be kick or electric. (Not able to kickstart easily in the mornings , maybe something wrong with my technique. Electric works flawlessly though )
2. Do you reccomended yousing choke for the first start ?
3. If the engine shutdowns (for any reason) after electric start, the self wont fire it back immidiately but requires 30-40 seconds to recoup, after which it works fine. Is this normal ? Can't tell you how many traffic lights have been missed inintially if i shut down the engine.
4. I always turn the fuel OFF before grounding the bike for the day, is this practice recommended (took this up from a long time bulleteer)

Barring this the bike is a pleasure to drive and i am absolutely in love with it.
Have run it for 300kms in 10 days and waiting eagerly for first service.

Thanks in advance for your inputs