[ArizonaJim]

The sparkplug is worn or fouled?
The ignition points are out of adjustment and probably need to be filed to clean up their contact sufraces?
The ignition points condenser is weak and should be replaced?
The high voltage ignition wire needs to be replaced? (If it is a carbon wire. If it is a metal wire, replacement shouldn't be needed).
The spark plug wire connector needs to be replaced? (If it is the resister type, they can break down).
The carburetor jets are dirty and should be cleaned?
The carburetor has an accumulation of dirt/water in the float bowl?
The compression is low? (Valve seats worn?)

The list goes on and on but basically it should be given a proper tune up which would include checking all of these things and fixing/replacing/adjusting as needed.

[psmenon]

In june i have added a classic desert storm to my garage, i have had an issue of my bulls tyre rubbing along the rear mudguard while i get over a dip or pothole, this happens very often with a pillion and at times without a pillion too. I have been to service center twice to rectify this but after two 2 or 3 days after the fix the issue rise up again. What would be wrong with this, any ideas on a fix? the sides of the tyre has started wearing out because of this

[bulletboy76]

I got my Bullet (STD UCE) serviced yesterday.

When I asked the mechanic to tune the carb, he tried to rotate the fuel screw. He said that the screw seems to be stuck.

According to him, the only way to take it out will be by drilling and cutting the existing screw - which off course is a time consuming (and expensive) affair.

The question to experts is - Is there any other alternative to this procedure? Is there any way I can take out the screw without damaging the complete carb?
Are there any deep penetrating lubricating sprays available that can be used to loosen it?

I saw a post somewhere mentioning some 'PB Blast' spray, however I am unable to this product anywhere (online).

Any other recommendations ? Your inputs are highly appreciated!

[bj96]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

... Is there any way I can take out the screw without damaging the complete carb...

Try soaking overnight in WD40 spray (available at corner hardware stores) and gently tap with a screwdriver so as to dislodge from seized thread. If this doesn't help, use hairdrier to warm the screw base and retry.

-BJ

[adrian]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

I got my Bullet (STD UCE) serviced yesterday.

Are there any deep penetrating lubricating sprays available that can be used to loosen it?

BEEN THERE DONE THAT !
As bj96 said, use WD40 wait for 24 hours and try again. If it is not budging use WD40 again and try it after 24 hours. Have patience and the screw will budge. The thing to remember is that the fuel screw is made of soft metal and too much force on it with a screwdriver will strip it. Using force on the carburetor body is also not advisable. After you manage to remove the fuel screw, use petroleum jelly on the threads before reassembling it to prevent jamming up in future. Try the float bowl screw and they will be in the same jammed condition. I had to replace the float bowl screws with allen types after removing it off with pliers.
And one more thing, the jammed fuel screws and float bowl screws are an indication of how well the RE service is servicing our machines with a carburetor cleaning/tune up listed on each service. They didn't touch my carburetor during the entire 4 free services.
regards adrian

[bulletboy76]

Thanks BJ and Adrian for your inputs!

I have sprayed WD40 yesterday morning. Will spray it again today evening and will try rotating the screw tomorrow. I will keep you updated!

Cheers and happy thumping!

[bulletboy76]

Regret the back to back posts. Mods - Please merge with original post if possible.

A friend has Bullet 350 UCE. On way to office, his bullet has suddenly stalled. The symptoms are as below:
1. Horn, indicators etc working. The neutral indicator is glowing.
2. There is sufficient fuel in the bike (in fact it has not hit reserve so far)
3. It came to a sudden halt while he was riding. His daily running is over 50kms and the bullet has been in use continuously.
4. The fuses look ok and he tried replacing them too, but no luck.
5. I asked him to open the petrol tank lead and close it (to remove any vaccum). He tried that too but no luck.

Inspite of kicking it multiple times, the engine is not coming to life.

Right now, he is on the road, waiting for a tempo to take it to a mechanic. Any inputs that can help him?

[ssingri]

Originally Posted by adrian

BEEN THERE DONE THAT !
As bj96 said, use WD40 wait for 24 hours and try again. If it is not budging use WD40 again and try it after 24 hours. Have patience and the screw will budge. The thing to remember is that the fuel screw is made of soft metal and too much force on it with a screwdriver will strip it. Using force on the carburetor body is also not advisable. After you manage to remove the fuel screw, use petroleum jelly on the threads before reassembling it to prevent jamming up in future. Try the float bowl screw and they will be in the same jammed condition. I had to replace the float bowl screws with allen types after removing it off with pliers.

I have the same problem on my TB 2004, thinking of going the lathe route unless I can find a reverse threaded tap. I have tried the WD40 method but it would not work.
Does anybody have an idea how much a new carb costs?

[bj96]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

...
4. The fuses look ok and he tried replacing them too, but no luck.
5. I asked him to open the petrol tank lead ...

I hope he is not still stranded on on road !

I will check for spark plug too. Is it getting clear spark? I had a cable rubbing between handle (steering base) and pterol tank edge. It got cut and bike stopped. He should check for this possibility too.


Is fuel tap on and petrol going to the carb- pull the rubber pipe and check the flow near inlet to carb. Open the spark plug and kick the bike with choke on. Do you get petrol smell?

-BJ

[vivekjayasheel]

If it stalled suddenly rather than crawling to death, it's probably an electrical fault. Check spark as bj96 mentioned. I suspect a blown CDI...

[bulletboy76]

Thanks Vivek and BJ for your inputs!

Further update - He went to the mechanic in Nigdi (Chinmay) and to his surprice, when mechanic kick-started - it roared to life in first kick!
They tried switching off and kick-starting again multiple times and it worked fine each time. The mechanic says that there does not appear to be anything faulty.

In summary, for now this remains a complete mystery....

[adrian]

Originally Posted by ssingri

I have the same problem on my TB 2004, thinking of going the lathe route unless I can find a reverse threaded tap. I have tried the WD40 method but it would not work.
Does anybody have an idea how much a new carb costs?

Sorry to hear about your carb. I have read somewhere that immersing the carb in hot water helps. But I am not sure about it with the delicate rubber parts in it.
A new BS29 carburetor costs around Rs.6000/-. But I think the 2004 TB has a non CV type carb right ?

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

Thanks Vivek and BJ for your inputs!

Further update - He went to the mechanic in Nigdi (Chinmay) and to his surprice, when mechanic kick-started - it roared to life in first kick!
They tried switching off and kick-starting again multiple times and it worked fine each time. The mechanic says that there does not appear to be anything faulty.

In summary, for now this remains a complete mystery....

Could be a dirty ignition switch or the infamous vapor lock. The symptoms of the dirty ignition switch would be that the neutral light will be on but the ammeter would not budge whether you hit the brakes (ie when the brake lights are on) or press the horn. If it happens again, ask him to wiggle the ignition key a bit and try again. If it works, then it is time for a moderate dose of Zorrik contact cleaner spray into the key slot. This happens if you ride in heavy downpour often. Happens to me every monsoon season

As to the vapor lock the symptom would vanish if you open the tank cap and replace it.
Regards adrian

[ArizonaJim]

bulletboy76

If this happens again to your friends motorcycle I suggest he first try turning the ignition switch to "Off". Then, turn the red "kill" switch on the right handlebar to the "Off" position.
Wait for 23-30 seconds and then turn the ignition switch "On". Then turn the red kill switch "On" and try restarting the engine.

The UCE Royal Enfields have a "Roll over" sensor under the seat. If it misbehaves and thinks the motorcycle has crashed it will turn off the fuel pump and the ignition coil.

I know of at least one instance where the bolt that holds this sensor came loose allowing the sensor to rotate. When it did rotate it thought the motorcycle had crashed so it shut the engine off.
It's a good idea to remove the seat and look at the various bits to make sure none of them are loose.

Another source of a mysterious engine shut down is the sidestand switch.
This switch will shut off the engine if it believes the sidestand is lowered.
A good bump in the road can cause the sidestand to be jostled and activate it.

More than a few RE riders in America unplug the electrical connector (at the seat downtube behind the transmission) to disable this switch because it can cause mis-fireing or unwanted engine shutdowns.
(Warning: If you disconnect the switch (as I did) the motorcycle can start and be ridden with the sidestand left down. Left in this position it can cause the motorcycle to crash.
On the other hand, before the safety wizards came to our rescue all motorcycles could be ridden with the sidestand inadvertently left down.)

[chotu_r]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

bulletboy76

If this happens again to your friends motorcycle I suggest he first try turning the ignition switch to "Off". Then, turn the red "kill" switch on the right handlebar to the "Off" position.
Wait for 23-30 seconds and then turn the ignition switch "On". Then turn the red kill switch "On" and try restarting the engine.

The 350 UCE s sold here are all basic carburettor versions. Is there a roll over sensor for these too? I imagine that only the 500s have the complex electricals.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Another source of a mysterious engine shut down is the sidestand switch.
This switch will shut off the engine if it believes the sidestand is lowered.
A good bump in the road can cause the sidestand to be jostled and activate it.

This is a good bet for most bikes but i am sure atleast the RE 350s dont have this feature.


If there is no roll over sensor for the 350s then it would most probably be faulty/loose electrical connectors.

[ArizonaJim]

Yes, I was thinking of the fuel injected 500's when I mentioned the roll over sensor.

I would be rather surprised if the new 350 UCE doesn't have the sidestand safety switch.
It would be easy for RE to incorporate the switch and wiring to keep the engine from starting and it might prevent costly litigation against them.

On the other hand, perhaps Royal Enfield has omitted both of these "features" on the bikes they sell in the 'home market', feeling that only the dumb forigners need to be protected against themselves?