[S.I.N.G.H]

Greetings to all.

I am owning a 1982 350 std. There is are issue with my bike that i would want to discuss here.

1. There seems to be earthing problem with my bike. There was no deflection in the ammeter at any time. The bike refused to start also. Then i connected the negative terminal of the battery to a point on the chassis externally, and everything was fine again. The ammeter had the required deflection and the bike started in the first two kicks, even for cold starting condition. So my question here is that where does the problem lie? To make this more clear, i want to know that at what point is the negative grounded to the chassis in our bikes.

2. The second problem with the bike is a vague sound from the engine. At low rpm the engine runs fine, but as the rpm increases, there is a loud 'kat kat' sound from the crank case that even overpowers the sound of the bull thumping. So want to know that does the connecting rod have a problem or is there a problem with the floating bush or something else?

I hope to get some support very soon!

Thanks

[ArizonaJim]

To determine the ground location, follow the existing (usually black) grounding wire from the battery to its opposite end.

If the connection with the engine or frame is loose or corroded that could explain your electrical problem.

Likewise, there has been several people who have found that the electrical connector that is bolted to the ground terminal of the battery has broken. This was not easy to see because the plastic/rubber coating where the wire meets the connector covered up the break. This broken connector caused the engine to mis-fire, often to the point of quitting.

I would suggest checking this connector by stripping off the plastic/rubber coating in that area. If the connector is broken, new connectors should be available at your motorcycle shop or a automotive supply store.
The new connector is crimped onto the bare end of the wire.

An optional fix is to make your temporary wire permanent but before doing this make sure your new ground wire is a 12, 14 or 16 guage wire size. It should not be smaller than a 16 guage wire. (18, 20 guage are smaller).
It can be connected to any permanent bolt on the engine or on the frame.

Your description of the knocking sound unfortunately, describes a failing "large end" connecting rod bearing.

This bearing is a sleeve coated with a soft metal on both sides and it is free to spin on the crankshaft journal and inside the large end of the connecting rod.
Normally, the oil will serve to fill the clearance between the rod and the crankshaft to provide the low friction and dampening needed.

Eventually the soft metal wears away allowing the bearing and connecting rod to rattle despite the lubricating oil that is present.
This rattling sound is somewhat dampened by the oil at low speeds but the high forces generated at high speeds are too great for the oil to dampen.
It is this sound that you are hearing.

There are no magic fluids or tricks that will fix this condition.
Replacing the worn out bearing sleeve is the only answer.

This is not an easy or a inexpensive repair so find the best, most reliable mechanic available.

Following its removal from the engine crankcase, the crankshaft itself must be disassembled in order to remove the old bearing and install the new bearing.

Reassembling the crankshaft with the new bearing is the most difficult part of the repair. It must be pressed back together so that the main bearing journals on both ends are running true with each other to an accuracy of 0.0127mm (.0005 inch) or less. Failure to assure this accuracy will result in heavy vibration and a rapid failure of the rolling element bearings that support the crankshaft.

I advise that when this rebuild is done the connecting rod should be replaced along with the piston and the piston rings. The rolling element bearings on the crankshaft should also be replaced.

The intake valve and exhaust valve should also be replaced and lapped in with their respective valve seats.

If all of these repairs are done correctly you will end up with a basically new engine.

[S5157]

Hello,

I have a 1997 Bullet standard. If the bike is not used for few weeks and when i try to start the Bike it leaks some oil through the breather pipe. If I start the bike atleast twice a week this does not happen. Any ideas?

[Collector]

[quote=ArizonaJim;3062159]

Your description of the knocking sound unfortunately, describes a failing "large end" connecting rod bearing.

Actual term is "Big End"

I use Pospher Bronze to machine new big end and floating bushes for my bikes.The life of these is extensive and the quality of the repair greatly enhanced.Find the most experienced bullet mechanic in your area and ask him which local machine [lathe] shop is most experienced in the rebuilding of cranks.

[S.I.N.G.H]

Thankyou sir for your valuable comment. So as i conclusion, i would have to spend on the new con-rod, bush and bearing. Right? If thats so, how much would i have to spend just to get the bearing, bush and the con rod? And how much would the total expenditure be.

Considering all this, after the repair, what should the resale value of a 1982 std be?

Thanks
Naman

[ArizonaJim]

Living in the USA as I do I cannot give you an idea of the cost of the repair or value of the motorcycle once the repair is made.

I should have mentioned in my previous post one other thing for you to look into before giving it the old

The noise could be coming from a badly leaking exhaust pipe.
This can occur at any of the joints but it often is where the pipe meets the cylinder head.

If you have access to a piece of garden hose or similar tubing, with the engine running, you can hold one end of the tube to your ear and the other end next to the cylinder head exhaust port.
Rev the engine up a bit listening for the sound or for a 'choof' ing sound that could indicate a bad exhaust leak.

Also, while you have your listening tube, hold to open end of it down next to the crankcase towards the front where the crankshaft is.

Again rev the engine up until the sound is obvious.

If it is indeed the rod bearing you will distinctly hear the sound get much louder.

Another source of loud unexpected noises can come from loose baffles in the silencer, a loose fuel tank rattling against the frame or similar things that may have come loose. Check out all possibilities before asking anyone to tear apart your engine.

[S.I.N.G.H]

Thanks for the reply sir. The noise is very evidently coming from the crank case. So i believe that the connecting rod is at fault. Again a dent on the pocket i seems. Here in chennai, the cost of the labour if the engine has to be opened itself 3500 bucks (parts extra). so i assume that i should have atleast 6000 with me to start the job!

[Rollin' Thunda]

My Thunderbird 2009 has recently started emitting a harsh scraping/rattling noise from its front wheel, especially at speeds above 20 kmph. Am I right is assuming this means the front-wheel bearings are worn-out/damaged? Any other possibilties?

[kd7202]

@ Rollin Thunda - the wheel bearings may be okay. Check your front disk brake pads. They may have worn out and grating against the disc. Change the disc pads soon otherwise you may end up changing the disc as well

Cheers

KD

[Rollin' Thunda]

Originally Posted by kd7202

@ Rollin Thunda - the wheel bearings may be okay. Check your front disk brake pads. They may have worn out and grating against the disc. Change the disc pads soon otherwise you may end up changing the disc as well

Spot on. Dead Right. It was the brake pads, after all. Fixed now. Thanks once again!

[Sudarshan]

I want to remove crash guard of my STD 350 .

What can be the disadvantages ??

* I have ridden Yezdi ( 250 ) without such crash guard ( since the beginning ) for 27 years , in all sorts of weather & terrain & Roads . I remember lot of elderly & experienced riders advised me against it.

* My riding speed is relaxed 60/70 Km/Hr on highways .

Am I being too overconfident ?


Sudarshan

[Warwithwheels]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

What can be the disadvantages ??

In the event of a fall, it is only the crash guard that prevents your leg from getting trapped between the bike and the surface. Also it helps reduce the damage to the other parts in the event of a minor crash or fall.

I would strongly recommend against removing it. In fact, during my bike hunt days I completely struck of the HH Karizma ZMR mainly because of the fact you cannot fit a crash guard.

Just curious as to why you even thought of such a thing?

Here's whole lotta discussion on that
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...on-thread.html

[am1m]

Originally Posted by Warwithwheels

Also it helps reduce the damage to the other parts in the event of a minor crash or fall.

I agree. There are debates about the crash guard's effectiveness in a high speed crash, but the value in a minor fall is very evident. I have front and rear crash guards on my bike and that's saved the levers from breaking a couple of times, when I put the side stand and got off the bike too quickly, but the bike fell because of a patch of soft ground under the stand. I was touring both times and a broken lever would have been a big problem. The two crash guards basically balanced the bike off the ground . Of course, having both crash guards make the bike a bit of a pain to ride in traffic, but I don't usually use the Bullet in the city, so it's ok for me.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by Warwithwheels

==

Just curious as to why you even thought of such a thing?

Here's whole lotta discussion on that
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...on-thread.html

Frankly haven't read it , till you gave the link .

But , beyond that I have put this on this Bullet thread for a reason . See how the the Guard is fitted on the Bullet , It has a Upper clamp on the tube , you cant tighten it too much & then there are two strips of metal connecting it to the Lower part . Now this guard turns on Impact , I had been through this many yrs back . many other bikes which have two chassis tubes in the front prevent this ' syndrome ' of a winding guard on your leg & they are more effective for leg protection purpose IMHO

I will post pics to elaborate my point . Also I have different design in mind which will protect leg as well as the brake & gear levers .

Driving with the Guard in traffic is a pain to for me as I am so much used to the sleeker shape ( without it ).

Originally Posted by am1m

== Of course, having both crash guards make the bike a bit of a pain to ride in traffic, but I don't usually use the Bullet in the city, so it's ok for me.

Actually I feel like I am driving a M 800 in the traffic with the guard , its much wider , but may be I am not used to It .

Sudarshan

[slicvic]

Is the front disc brake kit still available? The dealer in my city is new and had no idea it existed.