[The Great]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

Hi Blazkowicz,

The problem most likely is due to rusting inside the ignition keyhole. I believe this is a common problem with enfields.

Spray some CRC 2-26 OR WD 40 inside the keyhole. It will help remove the rust and solve the problem.

Cheers and happy thumping!

Originally Posted by voodoochild

Did the spare key also behave the same way?

If so, as bulletboy76 says, spray WD40 liberally inside the keyhole. Water service might have caused some corrosion/jamming of the mechanism.

Originally Posted by Blazkowicz

I have been facing a peculiar problem since the past few days on my classic 350. I find it extremely difficult to insert the key into the ignition keyhole and also the side handle lock. It usually takes a lot of attempts before the key goes in all the way. The key appears to be physically ok. This was a mild problem earlier but ever since I got my motorcycle serviced, this has become a major issue. Could it be that the key got swapped with someone else's key or is it some other problem? How can I fix this issue?

Originally Posted by bblost

As mentioned above check with the other key.

I once had this issue after a water wash. I removed the dip stick and put in 2 drops of the engine oil.

Worked like a charm.

Putting in oil is great but nothing works like the WD 40 - and this is common to all bikes not only enfield..

I regularly and very liberally use wd40 for the ignition lock, gear shifter and the main, side stands and a lot of movable parts, since last 10 years without any problems.

[Collector]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

how can it be made possible to carry a spare wheel with the RE 350 std. [ just like in Yezdi where wheels are interchangeable, in stock condition ] Unlike the Jawa/Yezdi the RE has different hubs for front and back wheels,Sudarshan

If you really need to carry a spare you will have to decide which wheel you want. It will also take up a lot of space and is not really worth the trouble involved.It is much easier to carry just a spare tube.I use my bike/bikes for a lot of long distance runs as well as in city conditions, but very rarely have a puncture.I ensure that I check my tyre pressure at least 3 times a month with the tyres absolutely cold [ie first thing in the morning before using the bike] I also replace the tubes once they have 3 punctures.But this is very rare for me. I have gone through 2 sets of tyres on my Diesel RE {around 45k kms per set} without a single punture and am on my 3rd set now and have covered 22000kms without any puntures as yet.


[QUOTE=Sudarshan;2953092
Also what if I replace the front stock tyre , with the rear one ( I mean same tread as the rear instead of the plain one ) ?

It is quite Ok to use a treaded tyre on the front wheel and as a matter of fact I have been doing so on ALL my bikes for many years.I NEVER use a "ribbed" or plain tyre on my bikes as I find that ribbed tyres give much less traction when used in muddy and sandy conditions and are much more prone to inducing a "slide" when used in hilly areas especially when it is raining. I always use a 3.25x19 treaded MRF Nylogrip on the front wheel and a similar 3.50x19 treaded MRF on the back of my Bullets.

[voodoochild]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

how can it be made possible to carry a spare wheel with the RE 350 std. [ just like in Yezdi where wheels are interchangeable, in stock condition ]

Inner tube and footpump would be easier to package for a trip no?

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

Also what if I replace the front stock tyre , with the rear one ( I mean same tread as the rear instead of the plain one ) ?

Originally Posted by Collector

...I NEVER use a "ribbed" or plain tyre on my bikes as I find that ribbed tyres give much less traction when used in muddy and sandy conditions and are much more prone to inducing a "slide" when used in hilly areas especially when it is raining.

Sir,
I've been using the regular treaded tyre on the front wheel of my Roadking throughout, and I can safely second Collector's opinion that the ribbed front has frightfully uncertain handling in wet and offroad conditions. These ribbed tyres were developed for speed, and are fine when traveling on the highway/racetrack in ideal conditions. I prefer the treaded ones anyday though.

Originally Posted by Collector

...covered 22000kms without any puntures as yet.

Knock on wood!!! Good going! I've managed just 16,000km without punctures. The first puncture and a shredded Nylogrip later, I'm a happy Dunlop customer!

Cheers,
Rahul

[abhimanyuargal]

Can one use a thunderbird seat on a standard 350? Is it a direct bolt on fit or do i need to make some adjustments to the plate? Its because on the Tbird, there are no forward clamps (near the groove for the riders butt). It just has a hook up front and two clamps behind(near pillions butt), while on my standard , these clamps along with two more at the rear end (near pillions butt) hold the seat in place. I have an extra standard seat lying around. Was wondering if i could use the forward clamps from that. any comments?

[Real_man]

Hello Fellow Bulleteers,

I need some expert opinion on my 2003 RE Electra. Its lying in the RE service (Baner, Pune) center undergoing major engine work - timing wheel replace, crank repair etc.

My mechanic has advise me to replace the block and piston. Now i am finding hard to decide whether to go for reboring (save cost) or replace the block piston.

Can someone share some thought in this and past their experience in this.

Thanks in advance.

[bulletboy76]

Hi Real Man,

If possible, please show it to another expert bullet mechanic / service center before you decide either ways.

Cheers and happy thumping!

[Real_man]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

Hi Real Man,

If possible, please show it to another expert bullet mechanic / service center before you decide either ways.

Cheers and happy thumping!

Thanks for the feedback Bulletboy. The Irony is that the engine is already dismantled in the Service Center (Kings, Baner, Pune). I had a word with the Senior mech just after posting my first query, he confirmed that as per the company norms they do not recommend for reboring, but he did mention that in the open market re-boring is done with no given guarantee for success. The crank repair work will be done by this Friday and probably they start assembling by Saturday - Have very little time in hand to decide.

I am eagerly looking forward for the experiences from fellow bulleteers who has done boring in the past.

Thanks,

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by Real_man

I am eagerly looking forward for the experiences from fellow bulleteers who has done boring in the past.

Thanks,

As your bike is going under full engine overhaul, mostly mechanic suggest for new block-piston set because if it is not done, owner will complain about power & pick up.
Have you already done 2 upsize of piston? If upsize will not sufficient, do not go for rebore, better to replace the kit.

[Real_man]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

As your bike is going under full engine overhaul, mostly mechanic suggest for new block-piston set because if it is not done, owner will complain about power & pick up.
Have you already done 2 upsize of piston? If upsize will not sufficient, do not go for rebore, better to replace the kit.

Thanks Alok for your feedback. The piston is original size this will be first ever boring.

Can you confirm the success rates of rebore?

Would I need to compromise with anything if I go for rebore?

I also hear of another option where the entire cylinder of the block is replaced keeping heat fins intact. Thereafter continue using standard size piston.

[voodoochild]

Originally Posted by Real_man

The piston is original size this will be first ever boring.

Can you confirm the success rates of rebore?

Would I need to compromise with anything if I go for rebore?

Re-bores have been carried out successfully for many many rains. There's no reason for a re-bore to fail if proper clearances and finishing methods are followed.

On the other hand, since it is an ASC, they would rather not take the onus of a third-party's lathe work in case it is shoddy.

What I would suggest is: Let the ASC fit the new block-piston, take back the old one, coat it with a film of oil and keep it safe at home as a spare. And get a 1st-oversize piston while you're at it.

Cheers,
Rahul

PS: We Yezdi owners tend to go overboard with amassing spares, but hey, you never know!

[Real_man]

Originally Posted by voodoochild

Re-bores have been carried out successfully for many many rains. There's no reason for a re-bore to fail if proper clearances and finishing methods are followed.

On the other hand, since it is an ASC, they would rather not take the onus of a third-party's lathe work in case it is shoddy.

What I would suggest is: Let the ASC fit the new block-piston, take back the old one, coat it with a film of oil and keep it safe at home as a spare. And get a 1st-oversize piston while you're at it.

Cheers,
Rahul

Thanks Rahul, appreciate your feedback. Will surely consider your suggesting.

With reboring would there be compromise in power?

Any idea with the option of re-seating a new Cylinder in the existing block with standard size instead of boring to 1st size.

[voodoochild]

Real_man,

Have the ASC chaps answered questions like:

1) Why is a new block actually required?
2) If the engine has seized, why did it happen and what was done to remedy it?
3) Will just a new block-piston prevent further seizures (assuming a seizure was the problem)?
4) Was there damage to condor/crank in the process? If so, what repairs were conducted?

Can you click and post photographs of the damaged block and piston?

Originally Posted by Real_man

With reboring would there be compromise in power?

Not unless you intend on taking it to the track etc. For regular riding, you would hardly tell the difference unless you are on the last oversize or a racing piston etc.

Originally Posted by Real_man

Any idea with the option of re-seating a new Cylinder in the existing block with standard size instead of boring to 1st size.

I didn't really understand what you mean here. If you mean a sleeve, why bother when spares are easily available? Sleeving is done usually when you're on the last oversize due to lack of spares (eg: RD, Jawa, etc).
With a sleeve, you will most definitely feel a drop in power as the job will invariably be badly done. Sleeving experts are as rare as hen's teeth in India now. I still say just put in a new block and piston if anything.

Incidentally, can you share the costs of new block and piston that were quoted to you? Just for information's sake, nothing else.

Cheers,
Rahul

[kd7202]

@ Real_Man,

Better to change the entire bore / piston kit with a new one. The RE workshop will do a rebore of existing bore but may not stand guarantee for the workmanship.

A new bore/piston kit along with piston rings costs about Rs. 4000/- and reboring costs approx. Rs. 2500/-. Go for the new kit.

I was also in the same dilemma. Whether to rebore or buy a new kit. Decided to go in for a new kit. After all, the difference in costs is negligible. Will be getting the surgery done in a few days.

Cheers

KD

[Real_man]

Thanks Rahul for the prompt responses.

Originally Posted by voodoochild

Real_man,

Have the ASC chaps answered questions like:

1) Why is a new block actually required?
2) If the engine has seized, why did it happen and what was done to remedy it?
3) Will just a new block-piston prevent further seizures (assuming a seizure was the problem)?
4) Was there damage to condor/crank in the process? If so, what repairs were conducted?

Can you click and post photographs of the damaged block and piston?

1) Block replacement was recommended due to low compression.
2) Engine was in running condition until I checked in with the ASC after determining that there was noise from the crank (bearing), timing wheel etc.
3) The Mech hadn't confirm on that.
4) I'll have to check the damage have not seen the block after it was opened.

Will try to get a pic tomorrow, planning to pay visit to check on the progress.

Originally Posted by voodoochild

I didn't really understand what you mean here. If you mean a sleeve[/url], why bother when spares are easily available? Sleeving is done usually when you're on the last oversize due to lack of spares (eg: RD, Jawa, etc).
With a sleeve, you will most definitely feel a drop in power as the job will invariably be badly done. Sleeving experts are as rare as hen's teeth in India now. I still say just put in a new block and piston if anything.

Incidentally, can you share the costs of new block and piston that were quoted to you? Just for information's sake, nothing else.

Cheers,
Rahul

I was actually referring to sleeving didn't know the right term. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Now I just realized another work is being done in the engine, my mech confirmed that sleeving of the Valve channel.

[voodoochild]

Originally Posted by Real_man

1) Block replacement was recommended due to low compression.

Piston rings are the components that hold compression. Loss of compression generally means worn rings. New rings will rectify this. Rebore is generally not required unless the bore has undergone deformities due to some serious wear. How old is your engine km-wise?

Apologies if I'm adding to your confusion. I understand you've got limited time to sort this issue out.

Originally Posted by Real_man

Now I just realized another work is being done in the engine, my mech confirmed that sleeving of the Valve channel.

Valve seats?