[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by jeeva

Assuming its a UCE, try switching the TCI unit

Originally Posted by Anz1979

Check your primary ignition coil and replace if faulty. Hope it will solve the issue.

Yeah, I think the ignition system is what I'll need to check now

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

Fuel quality could be a possible culprit.
Empty the fuel tank fully and look for rust inside as well. Always keep a quarter tank of fuel minimum in the tank,

I fill from only one HP station on the way to work. The quality hasn't been inconsistent as far as I've noticed.
Rust may be a possibility but if that's the case, would the fuel filter in the fuel tap not capture the rust?
Can you please also elaborate on the significance of maintaining a certain level of fuel in the tank?

Originally Posted by Balaji31582

... it will simply require you to spray the air in all touch points opening up connectors, etc. If not, the circuit closing battery with rectifier that will keep the charging from charging coil should be checked as you have ruled out spark plug, carb.

I wash the bike myself with a pressure washer although only on the oily metal parts. However, your point is worth noting indeed. The overall quality of the wiring harness has always been a point of question for me so it's definitely something I'll be checking out.

[Geo_Ipe]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

Can you please also elaborate on the significance of maintaining a certain level of fuel in the tank?

The more the fuel in the tank, the more dilute the amount of impurities in it. If you're running on your last litre of fuel, the more chance of debris getting sucked into the fuel pump & damaging it. Also, a good habit to follow so that you never run out of fuel.

[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

The more the fuel in the tank, the more dilute the amount of impurities in it. If you're running on your last litre of fuel, the more chance of debris getting sucked into the fuel pump & damaging it. Also, a good habit to follow so that you never run out of fuel.

That's a really good point! I hadn't thought along that angle. Guess it will help if I maintain a better level of fuel in the tank then.
I recently opened the carb up to clean it and the float sump had fuel which was Coffee coloured I just cleaned it all out. Took out the fuel filter just before the carb and looked for debris but couldn't find any. I'm not sure if the fuel in my tank is also as impure as what I saw in the carb sump. I'm quite paranoid when I see even miniscule amounts of impurities in internal sealed systems.
If only fuel tanks had a way of being opened up completely for cleaning. Sigh!

[Majumdarda]

There were some issues with the Electric starting and I had to replace the Sprag clutch. Now with the new assembly, I have observed that while starting if I twist the accelerator, there is a considerable backfire from the carburettor, as a result of which, the connecting pipe comes out from the carburettor end.. This was not the case earlier, though I understand that twisting the accelerator is not recommended.

But after riding for 10 years, even if there is a slight twist, the backfire is not acceptable.

The other day, the pipe again came off and while fixing it back into the carburettor, I noticed that the pipe connected to the big block-end seems to have broken? Can that be the cause of these backfires while starting, resulting in the pipe coming out everytime from the carburettor.

I have attached the image, the circled portion is the cause of my concern. Can anyone please check, preferably with their setup, and advise if this is indeed broken?

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

If only fuel tanks had a way of being opened up completely for cleaning. Sigh!

As I rarely use my 2002 Bullet Electra, the tank had a lot of rust over these years and it had increased since last 3 years after the introduction of Ethanol in petrol. And because of irregular use, I did not keep too much fuel in the tank aggravating the problem. I remember using self-tapping screws to clean the tank 2 years back but the rust was increasing and I had to clean the carburettor every time (the filter doesn't help catch the micro rust particles).
Last week, used diluted vinegar to clean the tank thoroughly from the inside. Now looks like almost all rust has gone and the insides are shining again. Let's see.
Now onwards, I will be using a Fuel stabilizer to stop further damage.

[intruder]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda;5823767....twist the accelerator, there is a considerable backfire from the carburettor...

...I have attached the image, the circled portion is the cause of my concern. Can anyone please check, preferably with their setup, and advise if this is indeed broken?

[ATTACH=IMG_20240815_1107297192.jpg

2642373[/ATTACH]

Carburetor backfire can be due to lean condition. Now this lean condition could very well be due to leak in inlet manifold you have highlighted.

If you have carb cleaner spray or starter fuel you can spray it on inlet manifold edges/cracks and observe changes in rpm when engine is idling. If there's any change in idle, it means there's a leak and you should replace inlet manifold and seal it properly.

If it still doesn't change backfire behavior, check for proper spark plug ignition, float height in carb and TPS position.

[Freespirit27]

Thanx @adrian and @that_sedate_guy.
I relocated to new city and found a FNG right in my backyard. He seems to have solved the issue. He may have cleaned the drum or something but what he told me is that one of the springs was broken (but could not show me the broken part!) But doesn't matter as my, 'catch in the brakes & metallic noise issue' is solved and especially in this city the traffic is merciless and a suspect brake issue is something I couldn't live with. And even better, I can go back to the FNG without wasting an entire day with the service center. But I'm surprised the service center at Kochi couldn't figure it out!

[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Now looks like almost all rust has gone and the insides are shining again.

Wouldn't the water content in vinegar corrode the tank further? If not, what is the process of cleaning? Like, just pour the vinegar and shake it around? Vinegar does have rust removing properties but if at all it does remove the tank rust, the tank would have to be quickly dried completely to avoid catastrophic rust propagation due to the residual moisture. Can you please throw some light on this?

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

Can you please throw some light on this?

You have to make a 50:50 vinegar to water ratio and keep it for 24hrs. Drain the mixture which will de-flake all the rust inside the tank and follow it up immediately with baking soda mixed with water. Keep for half hour and dry it up with a hairdryer. Take some petrol and wash it twice / thrice to remove all remaining water and debris.

[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

You have to make a 50:50 vinegar to water ratio and keep it for 24hrs. Drain the mixture which will de-flake all the rust inside the tank and follow it up immediately with baking soda mixed with water. Keep for half hour and dry it up with a hairdryer. Take some petrol and wash it twice / thrice to remove all remaining water and debris.

Thanks for elaborating on the process. I thought it might have been just dilute vinegar and hence my query. I'll try this when I get time to take apart the tank and we'll see how it fares.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by intruder

If you have carb cleaner spray or starter fuel you can spray it on inlet manifold edges/cracks and observe changes in rpm when engine is idling. If there's any change in idle, it means there's a leak and you should replace inlet manifold and seal it properly.

If it still doesn't change backfire behavior, check for proper spark plug ignition, float height in carb and TPS position.

I have not observed any change in idling, infact it has become quite rhythmic to my ears with no drops. Will a B500 have TPS which was released in 2013? I am not sure on this. But somehow I believe it has got something to do with some tightness somewhere. Even today, while starting (ES) it backfired once. One more observation, is that the Kick Start has become very hard (Which was never the case earlier); to the extent that it feels like I am kick starting an old bullet. I know the sprag clutch assembly had to be replaced as one of the inner springs had broken, but I am puzzled as to why the KS has become so stiff now.

[intruder]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

I have not observed any change in idling, infact it has become quite rhythmic to my ears with no drops. Will a B500 have TPS which was released in 2013? I am not sure on this. But somehow I believe it has got something to do with some tightness somewhere. Even today, while starting (ES) it backfired once. One more observation, is that the Kick Start has become very hard (Which was never the case earlier); to the extent that it feels like I am kick starting an old bullet. I know the sprag clutch assembly had to be replaced as one of the inner springs had broken, but I am puzzled as to why the KS has become so stiff now.

You can check for TPS under front seat. The throttle cable splits into two and one goes to TPS under seat.

Did you do any maintenance work recently? If you started noticing backfire after some maintenance service, I'd probably check what was done in the service and start from there. There could be a lot of reasons for backfire, it could be ignition timing, cam timing etc.

Otherwise air intake leak or exhaust leak at cylinder head is what I suspect the most.

Kick start becoming hard also tells me about ignition timing issue. But I'll let others chime in for opinions on this one.

[pedrolourenco]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Another question about my 1975 RE. I wanted to have a right brake left gear shift configuration. So they put a (more) modern 5 speed gear box on.

That's something I always wanted to do on my 350 STD. Even now if I do get my hands on an old CI bike, I'll want to do this mod. Something that the Bullet always deserved.

[pedrolourenco]

Question for all the Enfield experts here.
There is a Bullet 350 1980 model for sale in Goa. It's Delhi registered (so obviously expired RC). It's in fair condition. Owner claims that engine work is done but have to see the bike to find out. Cosmetically needs work.
He has quoted 50K but on DM said 35K final. Obviously thats too high for a non road legal bike which I'm going to keep as my collection and use only on internal private roads around my house.
How much to offer?

[Freespirit27]

Not an expert!
But logic says - Vintage wise it would have value but a DL registration bike (even a maintained one) this old, is quite likely to have a lot of local parts. The paint and rust condition indicates no regular running so just to get it to appearance and running will need a couple of Ks.
35K for a regular bike is a steal if it is running, but better check the fuel oil consumption/leaks, which will give you some idea of the state of engine and tune. Also this being a RC expired bike and if you wish it to be road legal will require lot of work in papers and tax fines and a vintage expert may be able to guide you on that aspect.
You can check its scrap value in your area and go maybe 10-15k above using all the reasons above.