[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

...
Most importantly,quite honestly, I personally would not bother repairing ANY internal engine component because the IC engine is essentially a controlled petroleum bomb between your legs. I never take any chances with such power under my nether and always replace whenever any part meets its maker. Get and compare the repairs with the prices of a new con-rod altogether. Trust me, you will have much more peaceful kilometres to go that way.

Let us know what the observations tell you. Cheers, mate!

Thank you Brian for being to the point. Yes, I would also go for replacement as repairing something is dependent upon too many variables. While I try to juice up my pocket a bit (20K), is it okay to occasionally ride the motorcycle, for small errands, sedately?

My technician had advised that I should not be going for any long rides but short city rides is okay, nevertheless what do you suggest?

[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

My technician had advised that I should not be going for any long rides but short city rides is okay, nevertheless what do you suggest?

Again, we're currently not 100% sure if it's the con rod but almost certain so in that case, I would not even attempt to start Amun-Ra let alone go for a ride but then again, that's just my paranoid MO. I avoid using my vehicles the moment I spot something wrong.

Yes, you can take the bike out for a two kilometre grocery trip or maybe a small escape to the nearby tea stall but do bear in mind that a sedately driven engine still generates unimaginable amounts of explosive stresses in the combustion chamber.
In case your current condition is on the verge of causing damage to some other part, for example, the small end bearing worn off, causing impact loads on the gudgeon pin, in that case, it's better to not aggravate the situation because if the impact loads damage the pin, you then would end up with more bitter gourd on your plate to eat.
Logically speaking, with the possibility of expensive internal damage already in consideration, I would not be comfortable taking the motorcycle for anything more than a couple of kilometres at most. Just exercise caution

[LongDrive lover]

Hello,

Which rear tube tyre is better for Bullet Standard 500 - MRF Zapper or ReiseMoto or anything else (Size: 120/80/18)?

Purpose is mainly highway riding.

Thanks

[adrian]

Originally Posted by LongDrive lover

Hello,

Which rear tube tyre is better for Bullet Standard 500 - MRF Zapper or ReiseMoto or anything else (Size: 120/80/18)?

Purpose is mainly highway riding.

Thanks

Had good experience with Michelin Sirac Street during the Trivandrum-Ladakh ride (highways / off road) on my Bullet 350 which has 19 inch rear tyres.

The following is the 18 inch version of the same :

https://www.amazon.in/Michelin-Sirac...01&sr=1-3&th=1


regards adrian

[adrian]

Originally Posted by adrian

Had good experience with Michelin Sirac Street during the Trivandrum-Ladakh ride (highways / off road) on my Bullet 350 which has 19 inch rear tyres.

The following is the 18 inch version of the same :

https://www.amazon.in/Michelin-Sirac...01&sr=1-3&th=1


regards adrian

Sorry, wrong link posted. It should be 3.50 / 18 inch.

regards adrian

[Freespirit27]

Sorry if this has been answered earlier, but didn't get it in the thread search. I have this creaking noise coming from the rear shocks on my 2013 Classic 350, when a pillion is sitting and the bike goes over a hump or dips, almost like bottoming out.
It's running on stock set with stiffest setting as the service guy said the suspension are weak but ok for my usual single riding.
I am also loking for a rear shocker by upgrade, if possible.
Secondly I have this very random metallic catch to the rear brakes when the bike lies idle for more than a day, mostly on the initial braking early in the day and aometimes twice. Brake pads were changed and cleaned twice to no avail!

Any suggestions are welcome.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Freespirit27

Sorry if this has been answered earlier, but didn't get it in the thread search. I have this creaking noise coming from the rear shocks on my 2013 Classic 350, when a pillion is sitting and the bike goes over a hump or dips, almost like bottoming out.
It's running on stock set with stiffest setting as the service guy said the suspension are weak but ok for my usual single riding.
I am also loking for a rear shocker by upgrade, if possible.
Secondly I have this very random metallic catch to the rear brakes when the bike lies idle for more than a day, mostly on the initial braking early in the day and aometimes twice. Brake pads were changed and cleaned twice to no avail!

Any suggestions are welcome.

The creaking noise, if it is due to dry sealing washer can be rectified by spraying the same with silicone spray. If it is a mechanical issue, then replacement is the only solution. Also keep in mind that a tight drive chain can simulate the shock absorber bottoming out symptom with a pillion.

Regarding the rear brake pedal judder, I too have it in my motorcycle after the onset of the monsoon season, for the first time (noticed in my 13 year owner ship of the motorcycle) when riding in Ladakh, after dust entry into the hub. It happens on the first braking of the day and is often a bone jarring one with a loud scraping sound that scares other motorists. I think it is due to rust formation on the surface of the old drum, where the brake shoe comes in contact. I have managed to rectify the same by reducing the brake pedal free play (bringing the brake shoe close to the drum). Don't ask me the principle behind it, I don't know.
regards adrian

[Freespirit27]

Originally Posted by adrian

The creaking noise, if it is due to dry sealing washer can be rectified by spraying the same with silicone spray. Also keep in mind that a tight drive chain can simulate the shock absorber bottoming out symptom with a pillion.

Regarding the rear brake pedal judder, I think it is due to rust formation on the surface of the old drum, where the brake shoe comes in contact. I have managed to rectify the same by reducing the brake pedal free play (bringing the brake shoe close to the drum). Don't ask me the principle behind it, I don't know.

Thanks Adrian. The chain is not too tight - I'll try the silicone spray.
Brake what you suggest makes sense and I agree many things of a RE are beyond principles I shall try both.

[that_sedate_guy]

Originally Posted by Freespirit27

Secondly I have this very random metallic catch to the rear brakes when the bike lies idle for more than a day, mostly on the initial braking early in the day and aometimes twice. Brake pads were changed and cleaned twice to no avail!

I had this same issue in my bullet and the brake lock was so severe that I often lost my balance altogether. No amount of changing the pads will help you out here. The issue is with rust buildup in the hub. Simple cleaning won't work because you won't get rid of the fine rust spots by just cleaning.
Here's what you can do instead. I did it on the front brake and it reduced the judder significantly.

1. Remove the wheel and subsequently the hub
2. Clean off any visible rust with a rough, dry cloth
3. Squirt a few drops of oil on the brake contact area of the hub (I always keep some used engine oil for these kinds of purposes
4. Take a piece of medium grit sandpaper - 180 to 320 grit works well. You can also go higher on the grit number but finer grits will clog up more easily and you'll need to eventually throw them away whereas with a medium grit, you can keep washing the particles with oil and keep using it.
5. Sand the inside of the hub as evenly as possible. You ideally want to do this in a brightly lit area so that you can clearly see any small rust spots that may be hiding.
6. Sand until the hub surface is shiny to look and smooth to the touch. There should not be any pits or sharp projections.
7. Sand the brake shoes to true the friction material. Be careful not to apply too much oil here because we don't want an inconsistent brake or worse, a smoking wheel.
8. Clean everything and assemble it all back up. Do test rides and check the performance. If there's no improvement, the issue can also be with the shock absorbers not being properly tightened or as @adrian said, an over-tightened chain

Try this and see if you're able to make any improvement. IMO, this should give you much smoother and better braking performance.

[2wheelsvaga]

Hi all. I am looking to get feedback from you on the quality of RE service centres in Hyderabad.
From the website I see that there are several centres spread through the city.
As in other cities, I am sure there are some that will offer much better experience than the others.
Which ones will you recommend?
Please list at least two.
Thanks!

[that_sedate_guy]

Guys, please, a little help!
So, my Bullet 350 has been on a continuous upgrade & pamper spree. New shocks, new tyres, new mirrors, windshield and what not. The engine is butter smooth with satisfying gear clicks.
However, I'm experiencing very random, unpredictable engine stalling. It doesn't stop the bike. The stalling occurs for one or two engine strokes and that's it; resumes like nothing happened. It seems to recur when accelerating hard when in a higher gear but this problem never happened before. Sometimes it also occurs when normally riding; just a split second stall but enough to scare me wits out. Imagine stalling when doing a calculated overtake!
Tried checking the sparks but the sparks are firing fine. I did notice that the larger spark plug was getting slightly lethargic sparks, missing one or two. Replaced the spark plugs and the new ones seemed to work fine but I can't help but suspect the plug wiring.
Thoroughly cleaned the fuel and air filters. I've also fully cleaned the carburetor. All these combined, reduced the frequency quite a bit but it still occurs very randomly and occasionally. I thought of even replacing the carb before cleaning it but dropped the idea because after cleaning the carb, the performance was much better and I did not want to waste 3.2K over possible placebo effects. However, if need be, I can replace the carb too.
The engine was opened a few months ago for buffing the cylinder head but the unanimous feedback was that my engine was almost factory fresh so I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with the health of the engine. Same with the crankcase and drivetrain. I keep these clean and maintained properly always.
Any idea why my buddy is starting these tantrums? He's barely 8.5 years & 40K kms old now.

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

However, I'm experiencing very random, unpredictable engine stalling. It doesn't stop the bike. The stalling occurs for one or two engine strokes and that's it; resumes like nothing happened. It seems to recur when accelerating hard when in a higher gear but this problem never happened before. Sometimes it also occurs when normally riding; just a split second stall but enough to scare me wits out. Imagine stalling when doing a calculated overtake!

Assuming its a UCE, try switching the TCI unit from a different bike and see if the problem persists. Looks like an electrical issue related to ignition.

[Anz1979]

@ that_sedate_guy

Check your primary ignition coil and replace if faulty. Hope it will solve the issue.

[Geo_Ipe]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

Tried checking the sparks but the sparks are firing fine. I did notice that the larger spark plug was getting slightly lethargic sparks, missing one or two. Replaced the spark plugs and the new ones seemed to work fine but I can't help but suspect the plug wiring.
Thoroughly cleaned the fuel and air filters. I've also fully cleaned the carburetor. All these combined, reduced the frequency quite a bit but it still occurs very randomly and occasionally.

Fuel quality could be a possible culprit. Have you been feeling at random bunks? Stick to one particular company (I usually fill up only at Indian Oil) and choose a bunk known for quality.

Empty the fuel tank fully and look for rust inside as well. Always keep a quarter tank of fuel minimum in the tank, opt against refueling only when you start running on fumes.

[Balaji31582]

Originally Posted by that_sedate_guy

Guys, please, a little help!

However, I'm experiencing very random, unpredictable engine stalling. It doesn't stop the bike. The stalling occurs for one or two engine strokes and that's it; resumes like nothing happened. It seems to recur when accelerating hard when in a higher gear but this problem never happened before. Sometimes it also occurs when normally riding; just a split second stall but enough to scare me wits out. .

After a long gap, I did a water wash for my TBTS 350 and unfortunately I didn't realize that the men at water service station didn't dry the bike properly (almost after sunset it was). Eventually there was water or wetness in all touch points from battery, rectifier, spark plug, charging coil assembly, etc. I have to take it to my mechanic 3 days later as it was stalling without any symptoms and ask my mechanic to spray air in all the touch points. He opened up the connectors through out the wiring line including ignition switch. Post that no stalling happened. I am narrating this whole incident because by any chance if you think your buddy was done with water wash, that act could be the source of trigger and it will simply require you to spray the air in all touch points opening up connectors, etc. If not, the circuit closing battery with rectifier that will keep the charging from charging coil should be checked as you have ruled out spark plug, carb.