[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by sole_rider

That is TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It's simply a potentiometer which varies its resistance value with respect to the throttle opening/closing. Ideally it should stay connected to the to the plug with a locking mechanism, if it does not stay connected then the lock might have been broken. In that case you may need to visit your ASC.

Thank you very much sole_rider. So this is the TPS. I checked the socket in and out, and though was expecting a lock mechanism, could not find any! I am guessing, it might have broken off. Tried checking with a few other Classics parked here, but other than the anxious dog at the parking expecting a few pats , I could not find a similar setup anywhere.
I prefer not to visit the ASC as I doubt their true intentions, might be my regular Servicing Technician can assist here.
Does it call for replacing the entire wiring harness, or is there a sub part catering to this particular section?

[sole_rider]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Does it call for replacing the entire wiring harness, or is there a sub part catering to this particular section?

I don't think there will be a sub part or child part number for just this wiring extension. Also for me, it doesn't warrant for an entire wiring harness replacement. You can try some jugads like you did with the electrical tape or maybe secure it with a small cable tie.

[Drpaul]

Hi all
I have an issue possibly with the front brake disc of my bullet 500, 2017 model.

Last service, my service guy called me and asked if I had any jerking feeling while applying front brakes. I confirmed this. This had developed very gradually and had noted it but I usually ride at 60-80 km/hr and mostly on highways, so seldom use the front brakes and that too only towards last bit of breaking, so didn't come to my mind while giving for service and hadn't mention it to him.

He told me the disc is bend/ warped and I okayed it to be replaced at 2000 bucks.

I had always noticed a squeak and catch while freely rotating the from wheel and just the squeak while pushing the bike. This had bothered me and had shown to a couple of mechanics and they had told it was okay as the disc was not getting warm with just riding. Squeak and catch could not be felt while riding and discs were cool to touch after long rides. I got the spokes checked and tightened on my own but didn't solve the issue. So I left it at that.

After the new disc. The jerking/ pulsating feeling while using the front brakes went off but the squeak remained.

Now 6000 km later it's time for the next service. I checked the front brakes on purpose and the pulsating feeling has returned and I feel it's increased gradually as I had kept on checking for it for the last few weeks.

I had gone through the forum and found other things like the "cone assembly" (I came to know of such a part only from the post) could be the culprit.

Can you guide me with

Could this be with the disc itself? The pulsating feeling is the same as last time and then it had gone off with replacement of the disc. Or could it be something they tightened or something during the service that resolved the issue.

If they say it's the disc again could I be able to make out if it's warped by examining it and confirm.

If it's the disc what could be causing the repeated issue. During last replacement they had told it will not reccur again.

Should I be worried about the sight squeaking and touching that's happening in the front break set up while free rotating it? Could this uneven touching be causing the disc to bent gradually. As mentioned earlier I am a very slight user of the front brakes.

Thanks in advance.

[Anz1979]

@Paul

Cone assembly comes in the case of steering. If you don’t have any steering issues like handle tight for turning, bike pulling to sides etc you can keep the cone untouched.

1. Check the disc for any bents.
2. Check the wheel alignment.
3. Check and clean the calliper.
4. Check for air in fluid.

[febz]

BHPians,
Could you share some light on whether Royal Enfield RSA for 4th & 5th year is worth the price? I will get the Super Meteor delivery this week and planning to opt for the 4th & 5th year extended warranty which is 5K but with RSa it would be 9K.
My riding would be 200 kms(to and fro)stretch twice or thrice a week and 400Km(to and fro) twice monthly (both well maintained tarmac but high range rides involved)along with 500km+rides(group tours) twice or thrice a year. Confused about the decision since removing the tyre(in case of a severe puncture or tyre damage) involves the exhaust pipe removal as well.

[PistonCrown]

Originally Posted by febz

BHPians,
Could you share some light on whether Royal Enfield RSA for 4th & 5th year is worth the price? I will get the Super Meteor delivery this week and planning to opt for the 4th & 5th year extended warranty which is 5K but with RSa it would be 9K.
My riding would be 200 kms(to and fro)stretch twice or thrice a week and 400Km(to and fro) twice monthly (both well maintained tarmac but high range rides involved)along with 500km+rides(group tours) twice or thrice a year. Confused about the decision since removing the tyre(in case of a severe puncture or tyre damage) involves the exhaust pipe removal as well.

Is towing to the nearest RE service free of charge if you have opted for RSA ?

Sorry about my ignorance. I have personally never used it in my previous ownership experience; hence, my asking.

[febz]

Originally Posted by PistonCrown

Is towing to the nearest RE service free of charge if you have opted for RSA ?

Sorry about my ignorance. I have personally never used it in my previous ownership experience; hence, my asking.

Even I am clueless. Thats why I asked for expert opinion

[splitsecond]

Rear Tyre upgrade query:

This is for my boss who is having RE Classic 350 signals 2018 model with 18inch spoke wheel running on 110/90 section rear tyre.

Is it possible for him to upgrade to bigger tyre like 130/80/70 or something similar without any trouble? or atleast 120/80?
If yes please provide suitable size.

[roamer]

Is there any benefit to book a new RE motorcycle through MIY option? I am going with Hunter 350

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by splitsecond

Rear Tyre upgrade query:

This is for my boss who is having RE Classic 350 signals 2018 model with 18inch spoke wheel running on 110/90 section rear tyre.

Is it possible for him to upgrade to bigger tyre like 130/80/70 or something similar without any trouble? or atleast 120/80?
If yes please provide suitable size.

Firstly, what is the purpose of upsizing the tyre? The older swingarm I believe couldn't accommodate larger size tyres (atleast width-wise). The newer swingarm which first appeared on the 2012 Tbird's (which had 120/80 18 stock tyres) does accommodate 130/80 18 size.

Bear in mind that upsizing the tyre might add to the weight and tyre rolling dynamics.

I would stick to manufacturer recommended tyre size, especially when it comes to RE.

[splitsecond]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Firstly, what is the purpose of upsizing the tyre? The older swingarm I believe couldn't accommodate larger size tyres (atleast width-wise). The newer swingarm which first appeared on the 2012 Tbird's (which had 120/80 18 stock tyres) does accommodate 130/80 18 size.

Bear in mind that upsizing the tyre might add to the weight and tyre rolling dynamics.

I would stick to manufacturer recommended tyre size, especially when it comes to RE.

This is a 2018 model, so atleast 120/80 possible?
His requirement is to improve looks.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by splitsecond

This is a 2018 model, so atleast 120/80 possible?
His requirement is to improve looks.

Yes upsizing tyre size to 120/80 is possible. But the requirement to improve looks just doesn't seem to make any sense to me.

[adrian]

Going through a weird issue with my 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 UCE.

It all started with a wheel trueing incident, post which the front drum brake began to act like ABS brakes. It grabs and releases at one point.

Things done so far :

1. The brake drums are not oval and both shoes are grabbing in tandem with no drag (can easily lock the front wheel using the twin lever drum brakes).

2. Steering races are tightened and without play.

3. Wheel bearing had some play and had been replaced.

4. Shock absorber has been overhauled.

5. There are no cracks in the chassis.


The only clue :

When the front tire is off the ground, only at one point, the wheel has a wee bit of lateral play (no sounds of loose spokes though) and the wheel spoke at the region are tight, but not ringing like the other spokes when tapped.

Other facts :

1.The wheel trueing had been done by an expert in Trivandrum.
2. The wheel had some rust issues, which was sanded down and painted with zinc chromate.

3. The front tyres are of the MRF RIB type with lot of thread, but was installed in 2018. There is no bulge in the tyre and it is good shape and has no run outs.

4. I use front brakes heavily.

Any ideas what to look for ?

End note :If nothing works, I plan to upgrade to the disk brake version in the proper way by changing shock absorbers, wheel etc.


edit : Adding one more thing : This ABS thing does not show until the motorcycle is about to stop (sub 20 km/hr speeds) when braking. Speed scrubbing at higher speeds does not shows this symptoms. And no, the motorcycle does not hop up and down at any speed while running. The motorcycle shows this symptom, only with front brakes applied, only at sub 20 km/h speeds.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by adrian

End note :If nothing works, I plan to upgrade to the disk brake version in the proper way by changing shock absorbers, wheel etc.


edit : Adding one more thing : This ABS thing does not show until the motorcycle is about to stop (sub 20 km/hr speeds) when braking. Speed scrubbing at higher speeds does not shows this symptoms. And no, the motorcycle does not hop up and down at any speed while running. The motorcycle shows this symptom, only with front brakes applied, only at sub 20 km/h speeds.

I remember having this issue years ago on my bike. I think the mech removed and cleaned the drum and greased the pins and it was fixed. It used to happen after a water wash and I used to initially think it was the cable and oil it, but that helped when the front brake lever never used to pop back to the released state.
I doubt if it is related to the trueing.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by tharian

I remember having this issue years ago on my bike. I think the mech removed and cleaned the drum and greased the pins and it was fixed. It used to happen after a water wash and I used to initially think it was the cable and oil it, but that helped when the front brake lever never used to pop back to the released state.
I doubt if it is related to the trueing.

Thanks tharian. Both the brake cams are new and properly lubed and the brakes shoes disengage as soon as the brake lever is released.
In this case, it is like the brake shoes slip at one point and regrab.

Pre - painting the rim, I had washed inside the drum with diesel and soap and dried the whole thing under the sun. Wonder if this has created a slippery spot inside the drum? But against this, I had thoroughly cleaned the drum and had scrubbed the drum as well as the brake shoes with a sandpaper.


Edit : 1. Why I mentioned trueing was because, this incident was not there before trueing. My bullet used to dive to the right on hands off. The person who trued the wheel said that the drum was till now positioned to one side related to the rim, which caused this. After trueing, the bullet is running straight with hands off, but brought this minor discomfort with it.

Edit : 2. I had used the same diesel / soap washing method with the rear wheel. But that is not causing similar symptoms there.