[JoeTheWanderer]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Based on this, I feel that lubricating your speedometer cable with WD-40 should be fine and cause no problems.

Thank you ArizonaJim. :-) That is good to know.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I lubricate the speedometer cable on my Bullet about once a year.

I have to change the engine oil next week - I'll remove the cable, give it a good clean and apply some vaseline as well.

[aviator1101]

Can someone help me with changing the rear tyre of my 2000 model CI bullet from 19 inch to 18 inch? What else is required to be modified to accommodate this change without affecting the performance? Front sprocket etc.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by aviator1101

Can someone help me with changing the rear tyre of my 2000 model CI bullet from 19 inch to 18 inch? What else is required to be modified to accommodate this change without affecting the performance? Front sprocket etc.

If you want to increase the rate of acceleration your motorcycle has, you don't have to change anything other than the wheel.
Doing this will increase the engine speed at all road speeds so expect to see a decrease in the fuel economy and the top speed.

Assuming the new 18 inch wheel has the same size drive sprocket on it, increasing the front drive sprocket by one tooth over the present sprocket will get things roughly back to the same performance you have now.
If you change the front drive sprocket, you will most likely need to change the chain to one with one more link in it than the chain you currently have.

[KkVaidya]

Last week, the headlight bulb fused while riding and I assumed maybe it has served its life.
Few kilometers down the road when I slowed down for traffic, it misfired with loud bangs a couple of times and stalled. Came back to life after two kicks.

I assume it is the rectifier/regulator making its way out as I also noticed the speedometer lamp going bright and dim on its own with the engine thumping steady! Or is it the earthing rusted up?

Mine is a 2002 Electra with 25,000kms.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Last week, the headlight bulb fused while riding and I assumed maybe it has served its life.
Few kilometers down the road when I slowed down for traffic, it misfired with loud bangs a couple of times and stalled. Came back to life after two kicks.

I assume it is the rectifier/regulator making its way out as I also noticed the speedometer lamp going bright and dim on its own with the engine thumping steady! Or is it the earthing rusted up?

Mine is a 2002 Electra with 25,000kms.

Are the plugs OK?. Visually?. If you can check the strength of the spark, it would give you an idea. I am not sure if this model uses AC or DC ignition.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by srini1785

Are the plugs OK?. Visually?. If you can check the strength of the spark, it would give you an idea. I am not sure if this model uses AC or DC ignition.

Yes i will be checking the plug but what i am confused about is the headlight bulb going kaput and the instrument cluster light going bright and dim!

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Last week, the headlight bulb fused while riding and I assumed maybe it has served its life.
Few kilometers down the road when I slowed down for traffic, it misfired with loud bangs a couple of times and stalled. Came back to life after two kicks.

I assume it is the rectifier/regulator making its way out as I also noticed the speedometer lamp going bright and dim on its own with the engine thumping steady! Or is it the earthing rusted up?

Mine is a 2002 Electra with 25,000kms.

I'm not sure what caused the engine misfire but the headlight burning out was likely due to old age.
My guess about the varying brightness of the instrument light going bright and dim is you either have a bad connection with a cable at the battery or the ground connection is bad or the battery is on it's last leg.

With a good battery and wiring connection, the variation in the output of the alternator, as the regulator adjusts the output voltage, isn't noticeable because the battery will provide the power to keep the system voltage fairly constant.
If the wiring connections to the battery are poor or the battery is failing, the variations in the alternator output will show up by the light bulbs becoming brighter and dimmer.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If the wiring connections to the battery are poor or the battery is failing, the variations in the alternator output will show up by the light bulbs becoming brighter and dimmer.

I figured out that the earth connection of the battery was not connected to chassis. Fixed it. Another thing i noticed is a broken connection of what looks to me like a condenser. Can anyone figure out whats the small metal canister is and whether soldering will work or not?

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I figured out that the earth connection of the battery was not connected to chassis. Fixed it. Another thing i noticed is a broken connection of what looks to me like a condenser. Can anyone figure out whats the small metal canister is and whether soldering will work or not?

It does look like a capacitor to me. No idea what it is used for. Just take the whole unit (along with the wires) to a RE spare parts shop and get it replaced. Soldering may not work in such cases.

[KkVaidya]

To Update on the Electricals part, found the capacitor i was looking for from and authorized spares shop costing Rs. 118.
Also got hold of a spare Regular/Rectifier from SWISS make just in case.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by srini1785

It does look like a capacitor to me. No idea what it is used for. Just take the whole unit (along with the wires) to a RE spare parts shop and get it replaced. Soldering may not work in such cases.

It is there to smoothen the flow of current from RR unit.

DC electricals are no fan of fluctuating current, drastically reduces component life, hence the Capacitor, all motorcycles have it, in some it's attached to the RR and in some it's a stand alone piece.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Yes i will be checking the plug but what i am confused about is the headlight bulb going kaput and the instrument cluster light going bright and dim!

You're right on the money, you get misfire when spark is cut, presuming that your motorcycle has DC Ignition it makes sense that your charging system or battery is at fault.

One other thing that can cause a misfire is the pulser coil crapping out. Sometimes when hot they fail to work and result in misfiring but in your case I'd still stick with the charging system cause you have other electrical issues that are concurrent with the misfiring.

Regards,
A.P.

[Abhishek3001]

Hello everyone,

My uncle has a 5-6 years old classic 350, that has fallen into disrepair due to lack use. So, I have decided to revive is as a fun diy project.

The bike was standing for a long time and the front brakes were seized and the brake lever can be compressed fully without any resistance.

Upon opening the master cylinder reservoir, there was hardly any fluid in it and there was lots of corrosion built up inside it. I cleaned up the reservoir and the cylinder bore, and changed the piston for good measure, but I cannot get it to build pressure.

When I fill brake fluid inside the cylinder from the outlet, it builds pressure just fine, but it is not pulling fluid from the reservoir.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Abhishek

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

When I fill brake fluid inside the cylinder from the outlet, it builds pressure just fine, but it is not pulling fluid from the reservoir.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Abhishek

There are two tiny ports in the piston barrel, if the return port is blocked the front brake would seize when you ride the Motorcycle on a hot afternoon.

The other port is what feeds pressure when you pump the lever, the return port gets blocked when lever travel is initiated.

Having said that. Change the MC, not worth the risk.

The TVS RTR ones would cost you about 1.25k for the MC.

P.S. Goes without saying, brake hose is ALSO A CONSUMABLE. Change without a second thought if condition is pathetic, which I guess would be the case for a 6 year old Motorcycle, I do not recall specifics but they should be changed once every 2 or 3 years.

Ride Safe,
A.P.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Change the MC, not worth the risk.

Thank you for the quick response. I went out and got endurance branded ( couldn't find bybre ones) replacement master cylinder, brake hose and a caliper. I will fit them this weekend.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Having said that. Change the MC, not worth the risk.

Quick update, I installed the new master cylinder, hose and caliper last night. It took me less than 5 minutes to bleed the brakes and get a solid lever.

Thanks a lot !