[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Hamza123

The leak was resolved by applying sealant over the wire area. Sorry not sure what's it called technically. Was taken care of during first service.

This is the exactly the kind of Jugaad I mentioned not to opt for in the previous reply which is just above your post.

The motorcycle is under warranty, settle for nothing less than part replacement.

P.S. @Everyone, If under warranty please do not promote such bandaid fixes, they simply bite you in the ass at a later stage and if its out of warranty by then you'd be the one footing the bill.

[KkVaidya]

How do you adjust the steering to dead center on a Bullet Electra? I have to hold the steering 7 to 8mm on the right in order to go in a straight line.

Checked the Workshop manual but only found how to adjust the play.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

How do you adjust the steering to dead center on a Bullet Electra? I have to hold the steering 7 to 8mm on the right in order to go in a straight line.

Checked the Workshop manual but only found how to adjust the play.

I don't know the electra model much , but what i can tell you is that the front suspension assembly ( forks , triple tees, cone set bearings etc ) is self centering by itself. If you use the correct spacer then the wheels (front and rear ) along with the frame should be in perfect alignment.

Pics given below is not of a bullet but for ref only.


The problem may be with the handle (steering?) bar which fits on the clamps. In most bike that i know of, the handle bar is freely rotatable as per the riders convenience. It is possible that somehow the handle bars are a bit off. If the bike has suffered a fall or any such instances which would cause it to bend , then it may show such effect.

Its just my guess.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by srini1785

I don't know the electra model much , but what i can tell you is that the front suspension assembly ( forks , triple tees, cone set bearings etc ) is self centering by itself.

It is possible that somehow the handle bars are a bit off. If the bike has suffered a fall or any such instances which would cause it to bend , then it may show such effect.

In the past, it has seen a crash although not severe but I had to change the front foot rest bars as they went out of alignment.
If you say the steering is self centering by itself, then it seems to be bent slightly as the handlebar has to go 5 to 7mm towards right to go straight.

Handlebar adjustment cannot be the cause, as it can only be rotated forward/backward.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

In the past, it has seen a crash although not severe ....

but I had to change the front foot rest bars as they went out of alignment.

If a crash has caused the foot rests to bend ( out of alignment), then it would certainly cause the handle bars to bend. I would suggest that you remove the handle bar and try to straighten it out in a shop (which has a hydraulic press ) or better still replace it.

I still don't know if this would solve the issue. I hope the fork tube have not bent. All the best.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

How do you adjust the steering to dead center on a Bullet Electra? I have to hold the steering 7 to 8mm on the right in order to go in a straight line.

Checked the Workshop manual but only found how to adjust the play.

Loosen casquette nut, fork top bolts, fork pinch bolts, all mudguard stay nuts, wheel axle pinch nuts (Its all mentioned in the service manual) and follow the procedure in the video. If your motorcycle front end has no physical damage like bend forks and the like, you will get a true alignment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNEmOqY02EU

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

How do you adjust the steering to dead center on a Bullet Electra? I have to hold the steering 7 to 8mm on the right in order to go in a straight line.

Checked the Workshop manual but only found how to adjust the play.

Most likely, your rear wheel is out of alignment with the front wheel.

The rear wheel must be pointed directly at the front wheel when the front wheel is pointed forward. If the rear wheel is trying to roll towards the right or the left of the direction the frame and front wheel are pointed at while your riding you will have to move the steering to correct it.

To check to see if this is the problem, put the motorcycle on the center stand and point the front wheel straight forward.

Get a very long piece of string and tie it to the rim of the rear wheel thru the spokes at the rear, looping it around the rim.

Pull the string forward so it passes the front of the rear tire and continue to pull the string forward, past the centerstand and the rear of the front tire. Loop it around the front rim so that it is resting on the sidewall of the front tire. Continue to wrap it around the tire until it is on the opposite side of the front wheel. Then pull it back to the rear tire sidewall at the back of the rear wheel.
When your finished, it should look like the sketch.

If everything is aligned, the string will just touch the sidewalls of both the front of the rear tire and the rear of the front tire. If there is a gap at the front of the rear tire, the rear axle must be loosened and the wheel moved to the right or the left until simultaneous contact is made. Then tighten the axle. Warning: When you are doing this, the slack in the rear chain must be adjusted so it is correct. Usually this means the rear drive chain can be moved up or down about 20mm with finger pressure measured about half way between the front and rear drive sprockets.

There are often lines on the frame that show the correct line up for the rear wheel but sometimes these are not accurate.

If you don't feel up to doing this alignment yourself, get a good mechanic to do it for you.

[maddy42]

Could members recommend good tires for the front and rear set of a royal enfield 350 classic. We are looking at changing the stock tires on my bike.


Maddy

[tharian]

Does anyone know if the CDI unit is the same for the AVL and cast iron 350 engines?

I bought two CDI units one after the other for my 2002 Electra and both when plugged and started, kept missing. Either both the units were faulty or not compatible.

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by tharian

Does anyone know if the CDI unit is the same for the AVL and cast iron 350 engines?

If i am not wrong, the older CI models had a CB points system and not CDI. I am not sure if CI engines had CDI units. Correct me if i am wrong.

Just for my understanding : How does the material of construction make any difference on the type of CDI?.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by srini1785

If i am not wrong, the older CI models had a CB points system and not CDI. I am not sure if CI engines had CDI units. Correct me if i am wrong.

Just for my understanding : How does the material of construction make any difference on the type of CDI?.

The Electra was a cast iron CDI model which was produced from 2002-2004 till the TCI ignition was introduced. The CB ignition was only for the Bullet Standard and 500 till they went out of production.

The AVL had a different compression ratio and ignition timing as it was learn burn compared to the Cast iron engines which is why I wanted to know if the CDI units were different.

[Twiny]

Originally Posted by tharian

Does anyone know if the CDI unit is the same for the AVL and cast iron 350 engines?

I bought two CDI units one after the other for my 2002 Electra and both when plugged and started, kept missing. Either both the units were faulty or not compatible.

My CI 350 is running on retro fitted CDI for last 12+ years. Will check what type of unit it is.

[Twiny]

Originally Posted by Twiny

My CI 350 is running on retro fitted CDI for last 12+ years. Will check what type of unit it is.

This is the CDI unit fitted in my standard CI 350.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Twiny

This is the CDI unit fitted in my standard CI 350.

Thanks for checking.

I managed to get a CDI unit, but a non-genuine part called Swiss, which I heard are not all that great. The bike is running for now, but has some missing when I kick for the first few times.

From what I asked my mech, the CDI units are the same for both AVL and CI, so the one I got initially probably was a TCI unit,

[navin_v8]

Mates, have anyone got their Thunderbird (post 2012 model) engine painted in black? like the way it came from the factory.

After 6 years of ownership the OEM black powder coated engine has started flaking/peeling in various places, worsened by the humidity and salty air (I stay about 1.5 kms from the beach) in Bombay.

I believe powder coating will be expensive, also the entire engine needs to be disassembled/stripped off. I am also not confident if all engine internals will be masked properly while powder coating given the quality of work in aftermarket workshops.

While using a heat resistant paint on the engine in situ seems to be the most comfortable, affordable and viable option I am not sure for how long it will hold up.

Any pointers in this scope would be helpful.