[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Chris_Xtreme

Will have this checked once the battery is replaced. If the fuse is blown will the entire meter console die? Except for the digital display, the speedo, rpm and all the pilot lamps are working.

Chris mate my 2014 Tbird500 battery was diagnosed as faulty just within a couple of weeks of ownership. My bike died on a busy intersection and I tried all the tricks to start it but battery was totally dead due to some fault. In my case the speedometer and RPM meter needles on the IC were stuck in middle position and the MID digital display also went off. Once the battery was replaced under warranty by RE ASS all things were normal.

Looks like they are referring to the TCI as Motherboard.

The TCI unit might be placed inside the right side panel of your Tbird350. Like AP has mentioned it is highly unlikely for the TCI unit to fail due to battery issues. It needs to be tested and checked.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

In that case it is highly unlikely for the CDI to be fried due to a faulty battery, even though the motorcycle is dependent on the battery to run due to the CDI being DC powered.

Mate all RE motorcycles post 2004-05 use TCI ignition instead of CDI. My 2004 RE AVL Tbird 350 5 Speed uses CDI ignition and I love it for the reason that I can start the motorcycle with an almost dead battery. Just a couple of kicks and the CDI powered AVL 350 roars to life.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate all RE motorcycles post 2004-05 use TCI ignition instead of CDI. My 2004 RE AVL Tbird 350 5 Speed uses CDI ignition and I love it for the reason that I can start the motorcycle with an almost dead battery. Just a couple of kicks and the CDI powered AVL 350 roars to life.

My apologies, I confused TCI with 'Throttle Controlled Ignition' as in the system seen on the earlier TVS's/Suzuki's which was more or less a toggle setup of sorts signalling the CDI to switch maps based on throttle position, took me a while to realize that RE's actually shifted to 'Transistor Controlled Ignition' systems rather than the latter.

Coming to think of it, the TCI over the CDI seems to be a downgrade from where I see things, so unless a capacitor is wired parallel to the battery the motorcycle wouldn't run without a battery. This system seems to have the disadvantage of the newer DC microprocessor CDI's but without any of its advantages.

A strange and confusing choice.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Coming to think of it, the TCI over the CDI seems to be a downgrade from where I see things, so unless a capacitor is wired parallel to the battery the motorcycle wouldn't run without a battery. This system seems to have the disadvantage of the newer DC microprocessor CDI's but without any of its advantages.

A strange and confusing choice.

Indeed! In my 2004 Tbird AVL 350 there is a separate coil which charges the capacitor in the CDI unit. The said CDI unit is self generating similar to having something like a magneto.


Coming to change from CDI to TCI there might be reasons ranging from cost to efficiency to performance of the ignition system. From little theoretical perspective of what I know, TCI gives a longer duration spark to the spark plug whereas CDI gives a relatively shorter duration of spark to the spark plug. TCI thereby helps to burn the fuel efficiently due to a longer spark duration, it also works well with lean mixture of fuel and air. Unlike TCI a CDI system is not fully dependent on the battery. The latter can start the bike with an almost dead battery. I know one of my close relatives who owns a first gen Hero Honda CBZ which came with a 156cc engine, that motorcycle works on CDI and I have never seen it not starting due to an almost dead battery(tested when horns and lights are not working). It immediately starts after a couple of kicks just like my CDI powered AVL Tbird 350.


At the end of the day, "You win some lose some".

[ssingri]

Hi have a AVL T-Bird with CDI, yes it starts with the first kick even today. I think Enfield moved to TCI to be able to incorporate electric start. The electrics and charging systems are very weak in the AVL CDI system. I just rewired my motorcycle to go all DC but am yet to beef up the charging system to handle the 9ah battery. The ignition system is completely independent and will run without a battery as I have experienced.

[Chris_Xtreme]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

My apologies, I confused TCI with 'Throttle Controlled Ignition' as in the system seen on the earlier TVS's/Suzuki's which was more or less a toggle setup of sorts signalling the CDI to switch maps based on throttle position, took me a while to realize that RE's actually shifted to 'Transistor Controlled Ignition' systems rather than the latter.

Coming to think of it, the TCI over the CDI seems to be a downgrade from where I see things, so unless a capacitor is wired parallel to the battery the motorcycle wouldn't run without a battery. This system seems to have the disadvantage of the newer DC microprocessor CDI's but without any of its advantages.

A strange and confusing choice.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Chris mate my 2014 Tbird500 battery was diagnosed as faulty just within a couple of weeks of ownership. My bike died on a busy intersection and I tried all the tricks to start it but battery was totally dead due to some fault. In my case the speedometer and RPM meter needles on the IC were stuck in middle position and the MID digital display also went off. Once the battery was replaced under warranty by RE ASS all things were normal.

The TCI unit might be placed inside the right side panel of your Tbird350. Like AP has mentioned it is highly unlikely for the TCI unit to fail due to battery issues. It needs to be tested and checked.

Mate all RE motorcycles post 2004-05 use TCI ignition instead of CDI. My 2004 RE AVL Tbird 350 5 Speed uses CDI ignition and I love it for the reason that I can start the motorcycle with an almost dead battery. Just a couple of kicks and the CDI powered AVL 350 roars to life.

Appreciate your inputs ashwinprakas and navin_v8! The service centre has confirmed that replacing the Battery and the Speedometer console will solve the issue and the TCI unit is working fine. They are waiting for the Speedometer console to arrive today hence expecting the bike to be delivered tomorrow.

[(Alok)]

Experts,
I am stuck in a complicated situation.
Throttle valve/ slider in VM-24 carburetor is stuck badly. I am not able to remove the accelerator cable and detach the carburetor from the vehicle.


Please help to come out from the situation.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Experts,
I am stuck in a complicated situation.
Throttle valve/ slider in VM-24 carburetor is stuck badly. I am not able to remove the accelerator cable and detach the carburetor from the vehicle.


Please help to come out from the situation.

A bit more clarity would be appreciated.

By throttle valve I presume you're referring to the Slide, and I believe the reason you're not able to remove it is due to the cap having seized.

You can still remove the carburettor from the motorcycle, only difference being you'd have to remove it along with the throttle cable, i.e undo the throttle cable from switch set and then remove the carburettor along with the cable.

Once you do, inspect the slide cap and do as you see fit.

Brake fluid is a decent degreaser.

Cheers,
A.P.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Experts,
I am stuck in a complicated situation.
Throttle valve/ slider in VM-24 carburetor is stuck badly. I am not able to remove the accelerator cable and detach the carburetor from the vehicle.


Please help to come out from the situation.

If you cannot unscrew the top of the carburetor try spraying the joint between the cap and the body with WD-40 or a good penetrating oil. Give it time to soak in, spraying a bit more after a 5-10 minute soak time. In this case, more is good.

The material these parts is made from can get corroded and seem like it is glued together and the penetrating oil should penetrate the threads and loosen it.

If you use pliers to grasp the top to turn it, do not squeeze it any more than you have to to keep the pliers from slipping. The tighter you squeeze it, the more you will deform it driving the threads inside of it into the mating threads on the carburetor body.

[locusjag]

I gave my 1 year old Electra for it's 1st ever Paid Service a month back. It came back a different beast all of a sudden - the bike's vibrations have disappeared mostly, it accelerates faster and is overall a pleasure to ride now. But my wallet became lighter by ~Rs.2,000. The service center is a company-owned one here in Chennai.

I have this nagging suspicion that all through my free services in the previous 1 year, they did nothing at all on the bike, barring the oil change and the water wash every time. I used to complain about vibrations and wheel alignment issues every single time to them...

So anyway, in order to sustain the 1 remaining year of the warranty, I'll have to shell out 2K at a minimum to them 3 more times. I really wonder if it's worth it; maybe it's time I found a local mechanic instead.

[(Alok)]

Thank you Jim Sir & Ashwin for reply

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

By throttle valve I presume you're referring to the Slide

You got it right. This slide was stuck in barrel. I go the term ‘throttle valve’ from parts catalogue.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

you're not able to remove it is due to the cap having seized

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If you cannot unscrew the top of the carburetor try spraying the joint between the cap and the body with WD-40 or a good penetrating oil. Give it time to soak in, spraying a bit more after a 5-10 minute soak time.

No cap didn’t sized and unscrewed by fingers easily.


WD-40 worked well. I sprayed WD-40 two times with one hour and with a little force slider came out.



Now the real problem begins. I am shocked to see the inside of carburetor. It totally black from inside even slider is having black soot on it.
My running is very less (once in two months) and I am always facing issues of blackening of engine oil within 50 Kms of fresh pour (just like diesel engine).



There is no black smoke from exhaust for normal revving.



Is this because of advance timing?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

Now the real problem begins. I am shocked to see the inside of carburetor. It totally black from inside even slider is having black soot on it.
My running is very less (once in two months) and I am always facing issues of blackening of engine oil within 50 Kms of fresh pour (just like diesel engine).

That sir Is the aftereffects of a motor that has properly misfired a good number of times.

To systematically diagnose the issue you need to first do a compression test, if you're not within the recommended range rebuild the head(and cylinder, if required).

If you're within the recommended range then first suspect the state of Tune of the intake, while running the VM28 on my ZMA whenever I turned the enricher on the Cosworth pod air filter would be blown straight off the carburettor.

If the tuning is right then you need to look into your timing.

On a lighter note, you would've been wearing a really good helmet to have completely missed out the fireworks.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

You got it right. This slide was stuck in barrel. I go the term ‘throttle valve’ from parts catalogue.

The slider stuck inside the carb assy is a classic case of contaminated fuel or if you've got your fuel tank epoxy coated from inside due to rust. If the epoxy is not allowed to dry properly it mixes with the fuel and creates a gummy like layer on the slider which makes it stick to the carb barrel in which it is housed.

Now the real problem begins. I am shocked to see the inside of carburetor. It totally black from inside even slider is having black soot on it.

The reason might be contaminated fuel. Try cleaning the fuel tank and the carb and pouring in fresh petrol. If you continue to run it, there are chances your float bowl too might get stuck and petrol will start leaking from the carb belly.

My running is very less (once in two months) and I am always facing issues of blackening of engine oil within 50 Kms of fresh pour (just like diesel engine).

Mate your answer lies in your own words. Running a pure mechanical bike like RE CI 350 just once in two months will do more harm than good. Keeping the bike standing for long periods contaminates all the lubes and fuel wherein they deteriorate to the point of contaminating the very engine and moving parts it is supposed to keep running flawlessly. Try running the bike atleast twice a week and see if there is any difference.
[Quote
There is no black smoke from exhaust for normal revving.[/quote]
Also check the condition of your spark plug it that too has black soot near the head, then might be your bike is running rich airfuel mixture.

Is this because of advance timing?

Get your carb cleaned and serviced followed by tuning the CB point.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

There is no black smoke from exhaust for normal revving.
Is this because of advance timing?

Is your air filter soaked in oil ? I think it would be better to look into simpler things before going to complex issues. The intake of the carburetor and the slide itself is coated in oil - engine sucking in oil through the air filter (assuming that the blow by gases are vented into the air filter chamber)

[ashwinprakas]

@Alok,

Please clarify whether the substance on the carburetor is soot or oil residue or something else, as there seems to be three lines of thought here;

1. Backfire(Soot, Fireworks and Explosions more obvious with the manifold off).
2. Contamination(Something else, a look at the fuel tap strainer would be a good idea as it would've similarly fouled).
3. Crank-case blow-by(Oil Residue, and other symptoms Adrian mentioned).

Reason for asking for a confirmation is due to remedy for each case being unique.

Cheers,
A.P.

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by adrian

Is your air filter soaked in oil ?

No. Air filter is not socked in oil. It is paper element type filter not sponge type.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

@Alok,

Please clarify whether the substance on the carburetor is soot or oil residue or something else, as there seems to be three lines of thought here;

This is dry black soot only.
In addition to adulterated fuel (as told by navin_v8), my first doubt is on advance timing because it takes 3-4 decompression to get the ampere meter in center and after that there is a nice back kick a few times.