[dre@ms]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I think the old black permanent sharp pointed marker method is the best way of knowing when I need to refuel and figure out what my mpg is.

Once the bike changes to reserve, i reset my Trip B meter to Zero. Fill up 10L of petrol every time, change to Main and wait for the next reserve. Usually the Trip B KM run would be around 360-390KM which calculates to 36-39 KM/L

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by adrian

@ArizonaJim
Sir,
I did the steering race / bearing replacement as the steering was falling into a slot in between lock to lock.

Attachment 1817365

Torquing values in the service manual is as follows

Attachment 1817366

Now the only torque wrench I have is in the range 1kgfm to 7 kgfm. So after installing everything, I torqued up the nut to 7 kgfm to seat the races, loosened it and then tightened it snug to the point that there is no axial play in the bearing and the steering moves freely.

Would this suffice or do I have to torque it specifically to 0.35 kgfm ? Or is there a rule of the thumb to tighten the steering head without a torque wrench ?

regards adrian

The .35 kg/M is little more than the amount of torque you would get by tightening something with a screw driver so I would advise that you should tighten the nut to the point that it is snug and then just a little bit more to make sure it stays that way.
It is a judgment call but as long as the nut torque is not applying a large amount of load to the bearings they should be fine.

[dass]

I have a Jan 2018 TB350. Have used it sparingly and has just covered only around 3000kms and mostly within the city. Off late, I find the suspension isn't coming back up after it goes down in a smooth function. There is a 'thud' sound from the front shocks. It also feels like it is getting stuck on its way up. The 4th paid service is due next month and I plan to get this checked. There are no visible damages or leaks on the front shocks. What could be the issue?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by dass

I have a Jan 2018 TB350. Have used it sparingly and has just covered only around 3000kms and mostly within the city. Off late, I find the suspension isn't coming back up after it goes down in a smooth function. There is a 'thud' sound from the front shocks. It also feels like it is getting stuck on its way up. The 4th paid service is due next month and I plan to get this checked. There are no visible damages or leaks on the front shocks. What could be the issue?

Mate as per owner's manual the fork oil is supposed to be changed at ninth month after buying the bike. Did you get it changed during the 9th month of your ownership, if you bought the bike in Jan 2018 then technically the fork oil would be replaced during the month of September-October 2018. If this was not done then kindly get it done. The above is assuming the front suspension on your bike is having issues.

[dass]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate as per owner's manual the fork oil is supposed to be changed at ninth month after buying the bike. Did you get it changed during the 9th month of your ownership, if you bought the bike in Jan 2018 then technically the fork oil would be replaced during the month of September-October 2018. If this was not done then kindly get it done. The above is assuming the front suspension on your bike is having issues.

you're right, it is the front suspension which is making the noise. I don't think the fork oil was changed in the 9th month, I had given the bike for 3rd free service in October, and don't remember the fork oil as part of the bill. I will get it checked at the earliest. Thanks

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by dass

I have a Jan 2018 TB350. Have used it sparingly and has just covered only around 3000kms and mostly within the city. Off late, I find the suspension isn't coming back up after it goes down in a smooth function. There is a 'thud' sound from the front shocks. It also feels like it is getting stuck on its way up.

I suspect that fork spring inside one leg is broken.


Two months difference for change interval of fork oil do not make much difference.


Check the suspension at earliest.

[ashkamath]

Guys, a friend who owns an RE in my WhatsApp group has some issues with his old Royal Enfield cast iron engine motorcycle. As he is not a member of this forum, I am posting the query on his behalf.

Inputs needed!
I have Enfield Cast Iron.
My bikes battery is getting 12volts of current and hence not getting charged.
What are probable causes?
Rectifier is working properly.
Wire cuts ?
Problem with Magnet or coil ?
Anything else... ?

Please help him identify the issue with his bike and a solution to the problem. Thanks

[adrian]

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Rectifier is working properly.
Thanks

You didn't specify the age of the battery. It could either be a dead / dying battery or a defective RR unit (Regulator rectifier)
If the battery is OK (don't just go for the voltage test alone, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte as well), then for the RR unit to be OK , he should be getting around 14.5 volts to the battery with engine above idle.

If you can get hold of the workshop manual of the CI, you will find values for multi meter tests specified for each and every electronic component, which will help you isolate the trouble maker.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Guys, a friend who owns an RE in my WhatsApp group has some issues with his old Royal Enfield cast iron engine motorcycle. As he is not a member of this forum, I am posting the query on his behalf.

Inputs needed!
I have Enfield Cast Iron.
My bikes battery is getting 12volts of current and hence not getting charged.
What are probable causes?
Rectifier is working properly.
Wire cuts ?
Problem with Magnet or coil ?
Anything else... ?

Please help him identify the issue with his bike and a solution to the problem. Thanks

This would help you target what is at fault.

Understanding & troubleshooting Motorcycle Charging Systems

As for diagnosing a short in the wiring harness, you would need to check for continuity between the stator AC output wire and chassis and battery + wire from RR and chassis, if there is continuity then there's a break somewhere.

As for shorting elsewhere the respective fuses would blow accordingly which makes it easier to pin point the part at fault.

Cheers.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Guys, a friend who owns an RE in my WhatsApp group has some issues with his old Royal Enfield cast iron engine motorcycle. As he is not a member of this forum, I am posting the query on his behalf.

Inputs needed!
I have Enfield Cast Iron.
My bikes battery is getting 12volts of current and hence not getting charged.
What are probable causes?
Rectifier is working properly.
Wire cuts ?
Problem with Magnet or coil ?
Anything else... ?

Please help him identify the issue with his bike and a solution to the problem. Thanks

Mate the easiest thing to test is the battery. Just ask him to check the voltage output which has to be more than 12V while idling and revving the bike. This can rule out charging problems and will help determine if the battery is at fault. If not then wiring has to be checked if there is a shorting somewhere in the circuitry.

Also how old is the bike? RE wires are notorious for cracks and dings as they age. I was facing a similar issue and tried fixing the wires many times on my CI 96 model but it didn't work for long. A few years back I changed the entire wiring harness which costs about 800 bucks. Till date I have had no electrical issues.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ashkamath

Please help him identify the issue with his bike and a solution to the problem. Thanks

In case you need reference of the workshop manual, I have attached relevant pages. Although it refers the Non-CDI cast iron engine, it still gives valid inputs.

[Chris_Xtreme]

Hi All, Appreciate is someone can help me with the below:

Issue 1. Battery in my TB 350 (2015) has died and RE ASS states that the mother board is also dead due to the battery being dead.

Issue 2. Digital display in the instrument cluster stopped working (Well before issue 1) and the RE ASS suggests that the entire instrument panel should be replaced.

Thanks, Chris

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Chris_Xtreme

Issue 1. Battery in my TB 350 (2015) has died and RE ASS states that the mother board is also dead due to the battery being dead.

Motherboard? I believe you've been misinformed on this front, please confirm the correct name of the part in question.

Issue 2. Digital display in the instrument cluster stopped working (Well before issue 1) and the RE ASS suggests that the entire instrument panel should be replaced.

Check the fuses, a blown fuse can cause the meter console to die. But before that you'd need to have a motorcycle with a working battery in place for consistency.

[Chris_Xtreme]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Motherboard? I believe you've been misinformed on this front, please confirm the correct name of the part in question.


Check the fuses, a blown fuse can cause the meter console to die. But before that you'd need to have a motorcycle with a working battery in place for consistency.

Will have this checked once the battery is replaced. If the fuse is blown will the entire meter console die? Except for the digital display, the speedo, rpm and all the pilot lamps are working.

Thanks for your prompt response @ashwinprakas. Looks like they are referring to the TCI as Motherboard.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Chris_Xtreme

Will have this checked once the battery is replaced. If the fuse is blown will the entire meter console die? Except for the digital display, the speedo, rpm and all the pilot lamps are working.

Doesn't hurt to check.

Looks like they are referring to the TCI as Motherboard.

In that case it is highly unlikely for the CDI to be fried due to a faulty battery, even though the motorcycle is dependent on the battery to run due to the CDI being DC powered.

Users like Navin would be able to help you better due to their vast knowledge about RE motorcycle.