[saurabh89]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

BTW, I am curios to know why you changed the fuses? I mean a fuse is not a part that needs replacement if it is working!

One of the horns started acting weird. The lights got dim whenever Horn was used. Got it checked from a local mechanic on outskirts of Srinagar and we figured out the fuse was blown. He tried to adjust the horn every time he put his wrench, the fuse got blown. Lost 3 of my spare 10 W and 1 15 W fuse.

Later realised that the other tip of his wrench was touching the metal body whilst adjusting the frequency!

[dass]

Anyone has adjusted their BS4 TB350 headlights? Their focus is way off and everytime i give it to the service center, they only make it worse. I want to do it myself, but am unable to find any material around it. TIA

[ACM]

My Friends 4 years old Thunderbird 500 Fuel Pump has failed. Cost of the same at the Authorized centre is 13,500. Any alternatives? Aftermarket solution? Lower priced source in Mumbai?

Just 5000 kms but was left exposed to the elements in the monsoon, still..

Do share back.

His present study shows that it needs to be totally replaced and there is no practical alternative to the original item from authorized centre.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ACM

My Friends 4 years old Thunderbird 500 Fuel Pump has failed. Cost of the same at the Authorized centre is 13,500. Any alternatives? Aftermarket solution? Lower priced source in Mumbai?

Just 5000 kms but was left exposed to the elements in the monsoon, still..

Do share back.

His present study shows that it needs to be totally replaced and there is no practical alternative to the original item from authorized centre.

ACM mate the OEM fuel pump is indeed expensive. I would suggest trying to scout for the part from CST Road Kurla. It depends on luck as one can find a part from a total loss/accidental motorcycle of similar make. But let me warn you that this might be a gamble considering one is buying a used/refurbished part.

There have been some people who have converted their EFi powered RE's to carb version by retrofitting the Bullet 500 UCE carb, I believe some aftermarket vendors also sell the entire conversion kit.

[dre@ms]

Not sure if this has been raised and answered earlier. A google search didnt throw up any solution.

1. Own TB350 and it is becoming very difficult to ride it after rains. Water on the road are all splashing on my ankles and either the shoes or pant are becoming very mucky. How to avoid this?

2. The fuel indicator is always fluctuating. Is this norm?

3. I calculate mileage using reserve to reserve. But it doesnt tally with the displayed Avg. Why so?

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by ACM

My Friends 4 years old Thunderbird 500 Fuel Pump has failed. Cost of the same at the Authorized centre is 13,500. Any alternatives? Aftermarket solution? Lower priced source in Mumbai?

Just 5000 kms but was left exposed to the elements in the monsoon, still..

Do share back.

His present study shows that it needs to be totally replaced and there is no practical alternative to the original item from authorized centre.

I am not sure what your friends "study" consisted of but there are several things to investigate before coming to the conclusion that a new pump is needed.
The Royal Enfield (RE) fuel pumps are quite reliable and the problem is usually elsewhere.



Starting with one of the more common troubles, make sure the electrical connector at the fuel pump is fully plugged into the wiring harness.
Before doing this, the connection should be unplugged.


With the connection unplugged, use a volt/ohm meter set on the voltage setting attached to the main harness connector to see if 12 volts is being sent to the fuel pump. When doing this test remember, the electrical power is only sent to the fuel pump for a short time after the key is first turned on so, it may be necessary to turn the key on and off several times to check the voltage.


If voltage is present, then plug the fuel pump wiring connector back into the harness and turn the key on. If you hear the pump running, the problem is fixed. If the pump doesn't run, read on.


There is a small black relay located near the fuses that powers the fuel pump. This is about 25mm X 25mm X 20mm in size.
There are usually three relays of this size located closely together.
These relays have 5 prongs on the underside which plug into suitable connectors.
(One of these is the main power for the ECU. One is for the fuel pump and injector and one is for the sidestand safety switch.)


It is rather difficult to figure out which one does what job so the best way to test them to see if the fuel pump relay is bad is to go to a auto supply or motorcycle repair place and buy a new one.
They are not very expensive and these same relays are used on cars power windows, power seats, heater fans, windshield wipers and a host of other things so they are usually available at a large number of places.
The NAPA number for the relay is AR272. Even if the store doesn't carry NAPA parts most of them will have a book that tells them what the part number they carry is equal to the NAPA part.
By the way, I think it is a good idea to have one of these on hand even if it is not needed now. Think of it as insurance.


Anyway, with a new relay in hand, one at a time, replace the existing relays, trying to test the fuel pump operation with each replacement.


If suddenly the fuel pump does start to run, you've found the problem.
If it doesn't start to run then the fuel pump is probably defective.


I think the idea of finding a used fuel pump off of a crashed RE is a good idea.

Like I mentioned, these fuel pumps are rarely the problem so if one can be found off of a wrecked RE it will probably be good for years of service.


Good luck.

[ACM]

Originally Posted by ACM

My Friends 4 years old Thunderbird 500 Fuel Pump has failed. Cost of the same at the Authorized centre is 13,500. Any alternatives? Aftermarket solution? Lower priced source in Mumbai?
Just 5000 kms but was left exposed to the elements in the monsoon, still..
His present study shows that it needs to be totally replaced and there is no practical alternative to the original item from authorized centre.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

ACM mate the OEM fuel pump is indeed expensive. I would suggest trying to scout for the part from CST Road Kurla. It depends on luck as one can find a part from a total loss/accidental motorcycle of similar make. But let me warn you that this might be a gamble considering one is buying a used/refurbished part.
.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I am not sure what your friends "study" consisted of but there are several things to investigate before coming to the conclusion that a new pump is needed.
The Royal Enfield (RE) fuel pumps are quite reliable and the problem is usually elsewhere.

I think the idea of finding a used fuel pump off of a crashed RE is a good idea.

Like I mentioned, these fuel pumps are rarely the problem so if one can be found off of a wrecked RE it will probably be good for years of service.

The matter got prolonged. Arizona solutions were a big Bouncer for my friend and his mechanic.

No alternative pumps were available. There was some stuff on OLX from a guy in Pune for about 4.5k but it did not inspire confidence, as the person had put the same price for multiple brand bikes.

The Mechanic was asked to source a new pump and install the same. I did keep insisting that just the motor should do the trick.

The Mechanic then got back to my friend that the fuel pump was not available in Bombay and Thane. The authorized service centre confirmed the same with no estimate of availability. (How are RE making new bikes then?)

The joke was that; hence the mechanic managed to source just the Motor for 3K and got the problem solved and delivered the bike. Instead of 13.5K the work was done with a sub part (motor) for just 3K. (which is quite reasonable)

Mechanics in India seem to be going the western way of replacing the whole assembly if anything goes wrong.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by ACM

Mechanics in India seem to be going the western way of replacing the whole assembly if anything goes wrong.

Better replace than mend, unless you wish to use the motorcycle strictly for running local errands.

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by dre@ms

Not sure if this has been raised and answered earlier. A google search didnt throw up any solution.

1. Own TB350 and it is becoming very difficult to ride it after rains. Water on the road are all splashing on my ankles and either the shoes or pant are becoming very mucky. How to avoid this?

All TB's are infamous for this due to its sleeker front mud guard and omission of an extra mud flap. Even my TBX is no exception or more pathetic from the rear. X's shortened rear mud guard is a treat for the eyes but not at all practical as the rear wheel is pouring the muck generously on the pillion rider's back. I stopped using my TB during rainy days as I don't want to spoil the appeal by fixing an extra mud flap.

Originally Posted by dre@ms

2. The fuel indicator is always fluctuating. Is this norm?

3. I calculate mileage using reserve to reserve. But it doesn't tally with the displayed Avg. Why so?

IMO, RE deployed this equipment just for cosmetic treatment, never got an accurate figure, always giving faulty readings, it will blink the yellow fuel warning light even if the fuel cock is on main. Now its due for replacement under warranty let me see how will it perform after the replacement.

AFAIK, reserve to reserve is the most reliable and accurate FE evaluating method, but as long as the float in the fuel tank misbehaving, there's no point in comparing with that.

[dre@ms]

Originally Posted by sajjt

All TB's are infamous for this due to its sleeker front mud guard and omission of an extra mud flap.

This is then a real dampener. A tourer with this basic need neglected is something to worry about.

Originally Posted by sajjt

AFAIK, reserve to reserve is the most reliable and accurate FE evaluating method, but as long as the float in the fuel tank misbehaving, there's no point in comparing with that.

Thanks, there is a difference of ~10 KM from the traditional to displayed Avg. and hence my doubt.

True, for me the low fuel indicator doesnt glow sometimes and vanishes when ignition is turned off/on.

[ArizonaJim]

I think the old black permanent sharp pointed marker method is the best way of knowing when I need to refuel and figure out what my mpg is.

After refueling I use the marker to write down the last three digits showing on my speedometers distance traveled dial. If it shows 27497, I write 497 on my left handlebar.

Writing the last three digit entry (like 255) that I marked on the handlebar the last time I refueled on my current receipt and writing my new distance value (497) on the receipt I can then subtract the old value from the current one (497-255 = 242).

That tells me I have traveled 242 km since the last time I refueled. (That's 150 miles).

I can then divide this value by the amount of fuel I just bought and end up with the precise distance/amount of fuel my Royal Enfield has delivered.

Mine usually gets about 70 miles per US gallon.

After marking down the new distance reading I've found that by licking my thumb, it will rub off the old distance value. Sometimes it takes two licks and a bit of hard rubbing but the "permanent ink" will rub off with just a bit of effort.

[Paco]

Hi Friends!

I have a unique problem and need some help. I had bought a Thunderbird 350 (AVL) in 2003 in Delhi. It was a bike that I had bought to use sparingly, and that is what I did. It probably has not clocked more than 25,000kms in 15 years. I have been spending money on her upkeep and maintenance. I am now based out of B'lore. Recently, I realised that my bike had crossed the 15year mark and that the tax was due as well. When I tried to do that in B'lore, they required a NOC from Delhi, and Delhi RTO has stopped giving the NOC for vehicles older than 15 years. So, technically & legally, I can't drive the bike on public roads. I don't have the heart to scrap it, and even if I plan to do so, sending it to Delhi and then getting it scrapped is a pain. Is there someway in which I could sell it to someone who is need of parts. I mean, I can probably use the same money to buy another.

But, if there is a way in which I could continue using her, I would love to.

Please advise...

[alexgv]

Experts, I was looking for inputs on Royal Enfield while I am considering buying it. For a classic 350 bike in how deep water puddles can it be safely ridden through ?
Does the Thunderbird 350X have better water handling since the exhaust pipe looks atleast an inch or more higher.
Thanks for your inputs.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by alexgv

Experts, I was looking for inputs on Royal Enfield while I am considering buying it. For a classic 350 bike in how deep water puddles can it be safely ridden through ?
Does the Thunderbird 350X have better water handling since the exhaust pipe looks atleast an inch or more higher.
Thanks for your inputs.

Rather than the exhaust you should be bothered about the height of the intake. Which on RE's is neither too high nor too secure, nonetheless it doesn't warrant a need for concern, you'd be fine with either the Classic or the X.

[adrian]

@ArizonaJim
Sir,
I did the steering race / bearing replacement as the steering was falling into a slot in between lock to lock.



Torquing values in the service manual is as follows



Now the only torque wrench I have is in the range 1kgfm to 7 kgfm. So after installing everything, I torqued up the nut to 7 kgfm to seat the races, loosened it and then tightened it snug to the point that there is no axial play in the bearing and the steering moves freely.

Would this suffice or do I have to torque it specifically to 0.35 kgfm ? Or is there a rule of the thumb to tighten the steering head without a torque wrench ?

regards adrian