[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Thanks Jim. Yes, neutral light is working & I did hint it because otherwise it is pretty obvious that neutral switch may need attention. Guess I may have to trace out the wires & it's not a likeable job for me.

This being a Royal Enfield a faulty neutral switch won't stop the neutral indicator from glowing, hence change the Neutral Switch.

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

This being a Royal Enfield a faulty neutral switch won't stop the neutral indicator from glowing, ....

Could you explain pls? Light is working normal ie., only in neutral. The switch is a single output wire type one possibly an earth continuity circuit. How can it be partial to ES

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

Could you explain pls? Light is working normal ie., only in neutral. The switch is a single output wire type one possibly an earth continuity circuit. How can it be partial to ES

Since I don't own the motorcycle I'm not aware of the specifics but a co-riders RE had the same issue and was rectified on changing the neutral switch, in the motorcycles I've owned if the neutral switch is out then the neutral light fails to glow but in RE's it seems that the neutral light glows though the starter circuit doesn't seem to be properly grounded.

You could simply test this by tracing the line(mostly sits behind the battery side panel) and shorting it to the chassis using a piece of wire and seeing if the starter cranks in neutral. If it does, then go ahead and change the neutral switch as advised.

[ashwinprakas]

Bingo!

I believe this would benefit other Royal Enfield owners as well.

How Does Neutral Switch of Royal Enfield Motorcycle Work

As you can see the Neutral Bulb remains lit even with a faulty neutral switch, the owner in the video cleans and re-installs his switch to resolve the issue, but for the sake of reliability I would still insist that you replace it.

On a different note, RE not changing much on their motorcycles even across models seem to be an added bonus for DIY'er and long-term owners alike. I've been hunting for certain workshop specifications for my CT100B for the past few months and the search it yet to bear fruit.

[rajushank84]

Hey RE'ers, a question for you all:

I just stopped by an RE showroom in Chennai, and noticed that the Classic 500 has an 18"-19" rear-front wheel setup whereas the Bullet 500 has 19-inchers both front and back. What's your take on the difference in handling / ride / height / comfort?

I would imagine the smaller rear wheel on the Classic would make for better straight-line stability but slower turn-in, is that the case? I haven't ridden either one, the CI Bullet I had is years back and I hardly remember what the handling felt like.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by rajushank84

I just stopped by an RE showroom in Chennai, and noticed that the Classic 500 has an 18"-19" rear-front wheel setup whereas the Bullet 500 has 19-inchers both front and back. What's your take on the difference in handling / ride / height / comfort?

I would imagine the smaller rear wheel on the Classic would make for better straight-line stability but slower turn-in, is that the case? I haven't ridden either one, the CI Bullet I had is years back and I hardly remember what the handling felt like.

Raju mate I believe the Bullet UCE 500 comes with the same wheel setup as the CL500 i.e. 19" front and 18" rear. I think you must be referring to the Bullet 350 Standard/ES which has a 19" setup both front and rear. Well the handling is a tad better with the 18" 120/80 profile rear tyre as it is wider and offers marginally better grip than the less wide 19" 3.25 profile tyre. Coming to the ride the 19" inchers rear of Bullet 350/ES feel a tad bit better while going over rough roads but that is very marginal compared to 18". The seat height of the Bullet 500 feels taller due to its seat set up compared to CL500. The Bullet 350/ES is even taller due to 19" tyre setup and same seat as Bullet 500. Comfort wise, the seat of the Bullet 500 and Bullet 350/ES gives much more comfort compared to CL500.

I have a Thunderbird 500 with 19" front and 18" rear(similar to CL500 and Bullet 500) and find its handling and straight line stability better than my old CI's, which use an almost similar wheel set up as current Bullet 350/ES albeit it comes with 3.50 rear tyre size instead of the new 3.25.

Hope this helps.

[rajushank84]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Raju mate I believe the Bullet UCE 500 comes with the same wheel setup as the CL500 i.e. 19" front and 18" rear.
...
Hope this helps.

Definitely! Yes you are right I was looking at the 350 and assuming the 500 is exactly the same, they didn't have a Bullet 500 on display. Interesting choice they made going with the 18" on the Bullet too, I thought it makes the bike looks overall smaller (maybe in my head), but definitely worth it if it increases traction with the wider tire!

[psmenon]

Any suggestion for a good RE mechanic in south Bangalore, I need to get my classic 500 to be serviced and checked thoroughly. I stay at Attibele and I am willing to travel even it's far too but need someone who is worth that travel.

Any leads in Hosur would also be great.

[B O V]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Do as I've mentioned in the previous post and
A.P.

A.P

I wouldn't have put up a query on this forum if anything else had worked.

Did everything my logical mind told me to, including what you said.

Rode her around for a bit after managing to push start her in first, didn't resolve the clutch sticking bit. Pushed her all the way to the mechanic. Guess them plates were well and truly stuck.

Cheers.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by B O V

A.P

I wouldn't have put up a query on this forum if anything else had worked.

Did everything my logical mind told me to, including what you said.

Rode her around for a bit after managing to push start her in first, didn't resolve the clutch sticking bit. Pushed her all the way to the mechanic. Guess them plates were well and truly stuck.

Cheers.

Other than the initial drag, clutch plates do not stick per say.

If there is a prominent difficulty in "shifting" i.e irrespective of ensuring that the obvious in in spec. Then the next course of action is to take out the clutch and inspect for warping, which though not common can be caused by either undue use of the clutch or not using the right engine oil. A warping would prevent proper disengagement of the clutch thus affecting ride quality.

Reason for me mentioning the same is due to not being satisfied by your explanation "Guess them plates were well and truly stuck" cause I've seen people being taken for a ride by their mechanics for less.

Just to add:

In the even that your clutch wears out and you're going in for a change, make sure to change both friction and pressure plates, changing only the friction plates in not a good idea taking reliability into consideration.

[B O V]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Other than the initial drag, clutch plates do not stick per say.

It was shifting fine when I did manage to get her running, btw it was the mech who suggested first to get it running and ride a bit whilst running through all the gears.

And yes, I do not part way with my moolah easily, therefore the possibility of being taken for a ride may not happen.

Although in hindsight, it did happen in plentiful during my initial years.

Will update after I get time to check up on the bike.

[kozhissery]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

A fresh set of zappers well be a lot better than a 5 year old set at stopping.
Yes, you really cannot compare a Z800 with a Thunderbird. The Z's tyres must be of a really soft compound (lasting around only 10K kms) and costing north of 20K for a pair. Also coupled with the better tyres, the Z also has better brakes and possibly ABS and traction control.

As far as stopping ability goes, irrespective of the kind of tyres you buy, you can try practicing hard braking. This helped me alot when I had just started riding. You need to find a empty stretch of road or a large closed parking lot would be ideal and practice braking. Start by applying the brakes normally and with each pass increase the magnitude of braking untill you find that sweet spot when the wheel just starts to lock up/ skid. Repeat this untill you can consistently get the bike to stop without skidding.
So, when the next time you encounter an emergency situation instead of locking the wheels you can stop safely.
A word of caution, I am not a professional nor have I undergone training of any sort. This routine helped me and it may or may not help you.

Cheers,
Ride safe

Just an update on the tyres that were replaced.

I got RALCO Speed Blaster for Rear and MRF Zapper for front. Did a small trip (1000 odd KMS) to a hill station near by and found the tyres to be holding well on tarmac as well as on bad roads and in rain too. The squeal of tires have almost gone.

I hope this will stay that way for a year or so (keeping my fingers crossed).

Wanted to go for Pirelli, but not available here.

[saurabh89]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

1. Always start an extended ride with new oil, ALWAYS!

On a lighter note I got to know for the first time that a Royal Enfield has 3 drain bolts while changing its oil by the side of the road somewhere in Odisha in the dark, funny part being that I'm neither from Odisha nor do I own or have owned a Royal Enfield

Sharing details on bike servicing and issues faced during my recent Ladakh trip.

Completed the full circuit from Delhi - Jammu - Srinagar - Sona marg - Leh - Nubra - Pangong - Tso Moriri - Manali - Chandigarh - Delhi in June 2018.

Got the bike serviced a week before the trip. Replaced following parts:

1. Brake shoe
2. cluthch cable
3. both accelerator cables
4. air filter
5. Bike Handle - Got the extended one for greater riding comfort

Topped up the engine oil. Had put in synthetic oil 1200 kms (35 days ago) and hence decided not to change the oil.

Got the LC fitted and got extra stuff for the trip:

1. clutch cables
2. 15 W/10 W fuses - must carry
3. 2 spark plugs
4. chain sprocket lock
5. air pump
6. some engine oil
7. Chain cleaner and lube

Filled up both the tubes with anti puncture sealant and it was a lifesaver!

Got my bike serviced at RE workshop in leh, changed the following:

1. Brake shoe
2. Fuses - all 4 of them!
3. air filter

Got the disk pads scratched.

Whilst returning from Tso Moriri, the suspension bush for rear tyre started answering, managed to get the bike till Manali, got a washer fitted in and then drove off to Delhi.

Post the trip, got the bike re-serviced, replaced following:

1. engine oil
2. Bike battery - 10.3k km
3. disk pad
4. air filter

2 punctures in 14 days, managed to pull out the nail and pump in air.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by saurabh89

Got my bike serviced at RE workshop in leh, changed the following:
Brake shoe
Fuses - all 4 of them!
air filter

Great Trip. Proves RE still makes reliable motorcycles.
BTW, I am curios to know why you changed the fuses? I mean a fuse is not a part that needs replacement if it is working!

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by psmenon

Any suggestion for a good RE mechanic in south Bangalore, I need to get my classic 500 to be serviced and checked thoroughly. I stay at Attibele and I am willing to travel even it's far too but need someone who is worth that travel.

Any leads in Hosur would also be great.

I would suggest the Royal Enfield showroom opposite the Madiwala lake. This is the company operated service centre and they do a very good job with the service there. The Koramangala one (take the right just after the CCD) is smaller in size and the work done there is also good. Ive had my GT serviced at both these places.