[doxinboy]

dudes! I got 2004 Machismo 350. I want to do away with the standard dual seat assembly and go for a mono seat options. Any direction where can I source it. Looking for a thin leather options. I am based in Bangalore. Help would be much appreciated, thanks.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by doxinboy

dudes! I got 2004 Machismo 350. I want to do away with the standard dual seat assembly and go for a mono seat options. Any direction where can I source it. Looking for a thin leather options. I am based in Bangalore. Help would be much appreciated, thanks.

Visit Rao's seat shop in Shivajinagar.
He has ready made ones which can be customized.

[Driving_Nomad]

Okay, posting after a long long time!
Need help from the gurus.

My Classic 500's battery went dead 2 weeks ago (Only the neutral light coming up and nothing else was working). The battery was 3+ years old and hence decided to buy a new one of the same spec (12V, 14AH).

Bought the battery home last evening and decided to fit it myself. After fitting the new battery, the bike still wouldn't start (horn, indicators, lights, starter motor all working). I noticed that the whining sound that comes from the fuel pump when we turn the key on isn't coming at all.

Need help is the following now:

• Could anyone point me to the coupler of the fuel pump so I can see whether current is even flowing there?
• Could a blown fuse have caused this? If yes, which one of the fuses in the fuse box is for the fuel pump? I know it's stupid to ask since the blown one (if at all) would be for the pump. But just in case more than one is blown..
• Is it advisible to remove the fuel pump and check/clean?
• Could "not fitting the battery properly" cause this issue?

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Driving_Nomad

Okay, posting after a long long time!
Need help from the gurus.

My Classic 500's battery went dead 2 weeks ago (Only the neutral light coming up and nothing else was working). The battery was 3+ years old and hence decided to buy a new one of the same spec (12V, 14AH).

On the side of the fuel pump that is nearest to the center of the motorcycle, there is a short electrical cable about 10 cm long. The electrical connector for the fuel pump is on the end of that cable, plugged into the main harness towards the rear of the motorcycle.
If you check the voltage at the connection remember, the fuel pump is actuated by the ECU for only a brief time after the key is turned on.
It may take several off/on's of the key to fully inspect the power.

A blown fuse could be at fault as there is one 20 amp fuse protecting the fuel pump and fuel injector circuits. As to which one of your fuses this one is, I can't say.
Royal Enfield revised their fuse box from the old glass/metal end style to the new plastic bodied style fuses and in the process the location of the fuse changed. The best bet is to visually check each fuse to see if the protective link wire inside of it looks burned or vaporized.

You appearently have a volt/ohm meter for checking the voltage at the fuel pump wire so, use it on the ohm setting to individually check each fuse.
Remove them one at a time and inspect it. It should have almost no resistance at all. Once checked, replace it and move on to the next fuse to repeat the inspection.

While I'm on the subject, there are three relays on the motorcycle which handle the power.
One of these is the MAIN POWER relay that provides power to the other relays and the ECU. Another relay provides power to the fuel pump and the fuel injector. The last is the side cut-off switch on the side stand (if your motorcycle has this switch. It shuts off the engine when the side stand is down.)

These relays look like small black cubes about 25mm square. They have 5 connecting prongs on the underside. Mine are located in the side box.
There is also a relay with only three prongs for the turn signals.

These 5 prong relays should make an audible "click" when the ignition switch is turned on.
They are used in automobiles for everything from fuel pumps to power windows to heater fan blowers so they are a common item and are available from any auto supply store.

DO NOT REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP. Even if you had it sitting on your table there is nothing visual about it that would indicate if it was good or bad.

It is possible that you hooked up the battery backwards.
Some batteries have the + terminal on the right side and the - terminal on the left (facing the side of the battery), while others have the + terminal on the left side and the - terminal on the right.

If you bought the wrong type of battery and its terminal polarity is reversed from the original battery, you could install it but it wouldn't power the ECU.
If this happened, the lights, horn, starter motor would seem to work correctly but the ECU would not turn on the power to the fuel pump and fuel injector circuits because of the reversed polarity.

Check to see that the + terminal on the battery is connected to the RED wire(s) and the - terminal is connected to the BLACK wire(s).
If they are not correctly connected, hook up the wiring properly (RED = +, BLACK = -).
If the wires are not long enough, replace your battery with one of the correct type.

Good luck.

[Driving_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

On the side of the fuel pump that is nearest to the center of the motorcycle, there is a short electrical cable about 10 cm long. The electrical connector for the fuel pump is on the end of that cable, plugged into the main harness towards the rear of the motorcycle.
Good luck.

Thanks Jim. Am quite confident that I have the battery is connected properly. Will double check that and also check out the fuses. I am praying it's only the fuse and not the pump.

PS: Excuse the brevity. Posting from the mobile app.

[bulletboy76]

I have Royal Enfield Bullet Standard 350 (Twinspark) - 2010 model.
Since last 3 - 4 months, I have been facing a problem with electrical system. The battery is draining out very fast. The horn is meek, and the pilot lights become very dim. It is also giving me a hard time in starting.
The problem gets worse if it rains. My office parking is unfortunately an 'Open' parking.
Yesterday I had to use almost 50 kicks to bring the engine to life.

Visit to the RE Authorized service centers have not been of much use. They have applied some electric tape at a couple of places.

I am thinking of getting the whole wiring checked and fixed / replaced if need be.

Can anyone suggest any good auto-electric shop / mechanic in Pune? Please post here or PM me.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

I have Royal Enfield Bullet Standard 350 (Twinspark) - 2010 model.
Since last 3 - 4 months, I have been facing a problem with electrical system. The battery is draining out very fast. The horn is meek, and the pilot lights become very dim. It is also giving me a hard time in starting.
The problem gets worse if it rains. My office parking is unfortunately an 'Open' parking.
Yesterday I had to use almost 50 kicks to bring the engine to life.

Visit to the RE Authorized service centers have not been of much use. They have applied some electric tape at a couple of places.

I am thinking of getting the whole wiring checked and fixed / replaced if need be.

Can anyone suggest any good auto-electric shop / mechanic in Pune? Please post here or PM me.

Get yourself a multi-meter and check the obvious, i.e battery voltage and charge rate at idle and at revs.

As per your results you'd have to change either the Battery or RR unit/Stator.

If the issue were purely caused by a short then your motor wouldn't run at all in the rains or would only be able to limp than run which would be more obvious than a resistance to start.

This is what water shorting runs like;

Bajaj CT100B - Utilitarianism Redefined!

[bulletboy76]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Get yourself a multi-meter and check the obvious, i.e battery voltage and charge rate at idle and at revs.

As per your results you'd have to change either the Battery or RR unit/Stator.

If the issue were purely caused by a short then your motor wouldn't run at all in the rains or would only be able to limp than run which would be more obvious than a resistance to start.

This is what water shorting runs like;

Bajaj CT100B - Utilitarianism Redefined!

I think the issue is not with the battery - It is hardly 1 year old (was replaced in 2017. RR Unit / Stator - Not sure, will need to check it.

I have seen some water getting into the wiring plug / socket. I think that is causing it to 'short'.

I have spoken with an Auto-electric guy and planning get all things checked this Saturday.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by bulletboy76

I think the issue is not with the battery - It is hardly 1 year old (was replaced in 2017. RR Unit / Stator - Not sure, will need to check it.

I have seen some water getting into the wiring plug / socket. I think that is causing it to 'short'.

I have spoken with an Auto-electric guy and planning get all things checked this Saturday.

The thing about battery's are that they can't be trusted, same in the case with mechanics.

Hence better go with my initial suggestion, this video would help get you started;

How to Test Motorcycle Battery & Charging System-Multimeter or Voltmeter | DIY

If water shorting is the cause then I'd suggest that you take the tank/seat off and then clean every connector and seal it with electrical grease/silicone gel, its a one time job and takes only a few mins, I insist on DIY'ing it cause I've seen how mechanics deal with it and trust me, you'd be just inviting more problems.

[Driving_Nomad]

Originally Posted by Driving_Nomad

Thanks Jim. Am quite confident that I have the battery is connected properly. Will double check that and also check out the fuses. I am praying it's only the fuse and not the pump.

PS: Excuse the brevity. Posting from the mobile app.

Time for an update:

• Battery was connected properly. Meaning no earths or leaks
• Starter motor was working
• All fuses were intact
• There was current incoming at the coupler connected to the Fuel Pump

The motorcycle had to be towed to a RE A.S.S to do further checks. I was at the end of my wits getting a service center to pick up my bike.

Teknik motorcycles in Iblur would promise me everyday that the vehicle would be picked up. When I'd call them at 2:00PM, they'd say it would be picked up within 5:00PM and at 5:00PM they'd say within 8:00PM, and at 7:30PM, no one would pick up the call. The bike was never picked up for 4 days.

Finally, got Electronics City Motors on Hosur road to pick up my bike. Took them 2 days but they picked it up in the evening on the second day.

Next day, by afternoon, I got a message on my cell saying my vehicle was ready for delivery and the bill was INR 601/-. Being surprised, I called the SA who told me that the Fuel pump was clogged which he got cleaned and the bike was starting and running well.

As much as I wanted to take the vehicle, I was happy with their prompt service and honesty with work. So, I asked them to service my bike too, which includes regular checks, oil/oil filter change, air filter change, clutch and throttle cable change (return cable was at end-of-life), engine LH and RH covers buffing and some other minor jobs.

Am yet to collect the bike this afternoon and would update if anything unexpected crops up.

Thanks to Jim for helping me out with the initial trouble shooting.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Driving_Nomad

the SA who told me that the Fuel pump was clogged which he got cleaned and the bike was starting and running well.

Good to know that all is well, but before that if I may ask, how many km's have your covered in total?

Also if I'm not wrong there is a strainer/filter in the fuel line before the injectors, so how did the fuel pump get clogged?

Letting the motorcycle remain idle for a while can result in residue buildup but 2 weeks is way too short for anything of that sort to happen, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to inspect the filter/strainer for rust, if your tank is rusting then do try to get it fixed.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Driving_Nomad]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Good to know that all is well, but before that if I may ask, how many km's have your covered in total?



Also if I'm not wrong there is a strainer/filter in the fuel line before the injectors, so how did the fuel pump get clogged?



Letting the motorcycle remain idle for a while can result in residue buildup but 2 weeks is way too short for anything of that sort to happen, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to inspect the filter/strainer for rust, if your tank is rusting then do try to get it fixed.



Cheers,

A.P.

I have done 20K km on this bike.

I stand corrected, it was the strainer that was clogged.

Have been riding the bike on and off. For a 2012 bike 20k km is a shame, I know. But it is difficult to keep clocking miles on all 4 bikes. I try my best to maintain all bikes in pristine condition but sometimes these kinda things crop up.

I picked up the bike from service this evening. Will post details on that later on.

Thanks once again.

[Rennjit]

Electra 5S ES, Pre-unit cast iron, TCI ignition, Yr '08.

ES is not responding in Neutral gear, though the neutral indicator is lit up. No clicking from the Solenoid coil.

Its all good once the clutch is pulled in, ES works alright. What am I missing here ??

Expert inputs please. TIA.

[ArizonaJim]

Rennjit
As you may know, your Electra ignition switch provides power to the starter button.
When pushed, the starter button sends the power to the starter solenoid's internal electrical coil.

The solenoid's internal electrical coil has a small grounding wire which is attached to two different switches on the motorcycle and either one, or both of them can provide the grounding path to complete the circuit and actuate the starter solenoid.

One of these grounding switches is located in the neutral sensor that should close when the transmission is in neutral. This should also cause the neutral light on the speedometer to light.

The other grounding switch is located on the clutch lever. When the lever is pulled in to disengage the clutch, this grounding switch will close.

You didn't say if the neutral light works or not but I suspect it doesn't.
If it isn't working, the problem is most likely with the neutral switch.
If the neutral light is working, the starter problem is probably due to a loose wiring connection between the neutral switch and the starter solenoid.

[Rennjit]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

...
If the neutral light is working, the starter problem is probably due to a loose wiring connection between the neutral switch and the starter solenoid.

Thanks Jim. Yes, neutral light is working & I did hint it because otherwise it is pretty obvious that neutral switch may need attention. Guess I may have to trace out the wires & it's not a likeable job for me.