[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by slicvic

Any Suggestions for a small windscreen for the Thunderbird

Something like THIS

Need something available in India.

Why small is because with minor falls, the instrument cluster takes a beating. If there's something in front of it, there would be lesser chance of it getting damaged

You could reach out to Bhushan from Sahyadri Moto Mumbai. I’m from Kerala and I had some aftermarket add-ons fabricated and shipped by Sahyadri, their visors in particular were better than the ones available in the market as they were polycarbonate ones compared to the acrylic ones which I feel are dangerous as the one I got from another supplier cracked during installation twice!

Here's my in-detail product review:

Sahyadri Moto: AdvenTouring Accessorized

[vishnuharih]

Thanks for the information Eko.
Also, in CI Std 350, when cold, are the rings supposed to leave some oil inside the barrel as the piston makes a few strokes?

[eko]

The question is not really clear. There should be no oil in barrel above the rings. Ideally the oil will be below the rings. If bore is oval, then oil will be left in barrel.

[starter]

Originally Posted by slicvic

Any Suggestions for a small windscreen for the Thunderbird



Something like THIS



Need something available in India.



Why small is because with minor falls, the instrument cluster takes a beating. If there's something in front of it, there would be lesser chance of it getting damaged

Have you tried the himalayan's windscreen?

[vishnuharih]

Dear Eko,

There was a lot of white smoke coming from this engine. When the bike was left overnight, we could find oil dripping from the exhaust opening on the chamber. Upon removing the bent pipe and inspecting the area, there was oil in between the valve guide and seat. Also, the part of the valve stem outside the guide was black in color, like when oil is burned.

The combustion chamber was removed and sent to the lathe. The cylinder is in its place. Now when I rotate the wheel to make the piston do a few strokes, there is some oil left inside the barrel above the rings.

Is it normal for the oil to come through the end gaps when cold and will this 'leak' end or get increased when the engine gets heated up?

The bore is smooth and shiny with no marks at all. Anyways, will get the bore checked today.

[eko]

There should be no white smoke at all when engine is running. The white smoke is due to worn valve and guides. I think you have worn cylinder- piston and valve- guides. The machining work to be done in only in reputed places to rectify the faults.

[Majumdarda]

Amun-Ra's (Bullet 500) battery was replaced in July 2015. I am again facing the same issues like the last time, viz :-

• No horn when the lights are on.
• In idle mode, engine dies the moment head lights are turned on.
• No ES option and the only was KS

Does a battery worn out within 2 years (12V14A)?

Also, it seems I have to replace this pipe which connects the engine parts. I am not too sure what it is called, but its the highlighted portion in red. I have observed in past that it had come loose once. Again the same is probably happening as the air gushes are coming out at times.



Current odometer reading is 42275. Please advise what all needs to be replaced and checked so that I have a smooth running Amun-Ra.

I plan to change the silencer back to stock as well.

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

[*]In idle mode, engine dies the moment head lights are turned on.

Check if the wiring is ground properly. Get it checked by an auto electrician. (Had similar issue on my ex-pulsar and that was the solution.)

Changing back to stock exhaust? Why so? But it is a good idea and good for the bull too.

[eko]

Check the connection between terminals and wires. This gets oxidised and leads to malfunction. Cut a piece of plastic insulation from wires and check for oxidation. Change wires if oxidised. I have experienced such problems in past. Good idea to check the voltage available with a electronic multimeter.

[panini]

Hello Everyone,

I want to reduce height of my RE Classic 350 by about 2 inches. Can anyone suggest what modifications I need to look at to achieve it? I am in Pune so does anyone know any modifiers in Pune region.

Thanks.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Also, it seems I have to replace this pipe which connects the engine parts. I am not too sure what it is called, but its the highlighted portion in red. I have observed in past that it had come loose once. Again the same is probably happening as the air gushes are coming out at times.

Current odometer reading is 42275.

Experts please advise on the pipe issue too. What all needs to be replaced at 42k on odo.

[coolaks7]

Hello Guys,

I am experiencing a very irritating clutter noise from my Thunderbird 500 from the past 10 months (ridden around 6k kms).

Initially it was suspected as loose chain and got it tightened during service and it was fine for 30-45 days. After a long trip, the noise started again and I got it tightened.

During the last service, they advised to replace the complete chain set but I was in two minds as the noise went away after lubrication. Again after long trip (1k kms), the sound has returned. Though these days I am lubricating the chain on my own as well

I am attaching the video. The intention was to capture the noise but accidentally recorded a slow-motion. Maybe it helps better.

https://youtu.be/kKiX0B0EtQk

Now the service is again due so wanted to check should I get the complete chain set replaced or issue is something else. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Ankush

[ArizonaJim]

Your chain is much too loose.

Also notice, there are several links that stay pointed in various directions in the runs between both the upper and lower runs of chains.

If the chain was in good condition, each of the links will be free to rotate up and down easily relative to the next links. This allows the links to straighten out and point in the direction of the two sprockets.

Your chain has what I call, "tight links" which do not move freely. Some of them try to stay in the same bent position they were in as they traveled around the sprocket.

This is typical of a chain that is worn out and beyond hope of salvage.

Lubricating a chain with these "tight links" will not solve the problem, nor will grasping the links with a couple of pairs of plyers and twisting them back and forth to try to "free them up".

It is very important to replace chains that are in this condition as soon as possible.

Failure to replace the chain will cause the damaged links in the chain to damage the sprockets teeth. Especially the rear sprocket as it is unhardened cast steel.
(The front sprocket is hardened steel and it usually can handle any damage the tight links try to do.)

Before replacing the chain, check to see if this has already happened, look at the teeth on the rear sprocket.
If the tips of the teeth look bent, or if any portion of the teeth are broken you will need to replace the sprocket too.
While looking at the sprocket, clean it up and look at the width of the teeth.
They should be the same width as the sides of the sprocket below the teeth.
If the chain has worn the sides of the teeth much more than 0.5 mm below the more central area of the sprocket, this again suggests it would be wise to replace the sprocket.

Some people feel it is a good idea to replace both sprockets when a chain is replaced and, if there is any sign of damage to the teeth I agree with them.

On the other hand, if all of the teeth on the front and rear sprockets are in good condition without bends or missing material I vote for leaving the sprockets alone and just replacing the chain.

The black rubber tube in the earlier posts is the intake manifold.
The bolts that hold it in place and the circular metal clamp should be tightened if they appear loose. If this doesn't improve the idling of the engine, removing the carburetor and manifold is in order.
Once removed, a light coating of a fuel proof gasket compound such as Hylomar or Permatex Ultra Black should be applied to the maiting surfaces on the cylinder head and the manifold and the manifold re-installed.
If the rubber has any cracks in it, the manifold should be replaced.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The black rubber tube in the earlier posts is the intake manifold.
The bolts that hold it in place and the circular metal clamp should be tightened if they appear loose. If this doesn't improve the idling of the engine, removing the carburetor and manifold is in order.
Once removed, a light coating of a fuel proof gasket compound such as Hylomar or Permatex Ultra Black should be applied to the maiting surfaces on the cylinder head and the manifold and the manifold re-installed.
If the rubber has any cracks in it, the manifold should be replaced.

Thank you ArizonaJim. The issue that I have observed is that the circular metal clamp that holds the manifold in place seems to get loose these days. The last time this had happened, I had removed and then re-placed it, properly securing the bolts. But I am again observing that slight air gushes coming out and its from the same location. Probably the manifold needs to be replaced as its not staying in place these days. Hylomar or Permatex Ultra Black that you have advised to use, I wonder if those are available here.

Can anyone please advise if we have equivalent products available here which I can use instead?

[R-Six]

Good morning Fellas!

One of my friends want to replace the brake pads on his RE TB 350 and is looking for suggestions. Can you guys suggest a better set of pads than the OEM ones? He is not happy with the performance of the company fitted ones and would like to upgrade.

I suggested him brembo since I'm quite happy with the bite it provides on my GT.

Let me know if any other aftermarket ones can be considered.

Thanks
r-six