[anilp]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Thanks for the video. And there in lies the problem - find a good mechanic. I have no clue how to evaluate a mechanic as being "good". And the service center chappies will not waste so much time on one bike when there are hundreds waiting. Guess I'll live with it until I sell it.

Assuming you're in Bombay, try Antony at Santa Cruz. Does a great job. A legend in the RE circuit.

[wangdu]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Thanks for the video. And there in lies the problem - find a good mechanic. I have no clue how to evaluate a mechanic as being "good". And the service center chappies will not waste so much time on one bike when there are hundreds waiting. Guess I'll live with it until I sell it.

3 possible solutions (based on my own experience):

1. Take it to authorized service center on a week day early AM after discussing with the supervisor/manager.
2. Reach out to RE on Twitter & customer care emails.
After I couldn't get much headway from #1, #2 worked smoothly. The RE customer care is pretty active and will help to repair or replace as the case may be. After my dump on RE's twitter handle, I got calls from the same folks who'd started to feign ignorance at svc center and they even assigned a dedicated supervisor.

For minor issues and usual servicing
3. Find a trusted RE mechanic - There are many RE svc/repair workshops whose mechanics are regularly trained from RE (and have certificates to show). Besides this the experienced hands are easy to identify, it might take some looking around but "they" are there.

You don't have to live with it, it would take some time but just get it fixed for the sake of ride quality you'd experience at the end of it.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by wangdu

3 possible solutions (based on my own experience):

1. Take it to authorized service center on a week day early AM after discussing with the supervisor/manager.
2. Reach out to RE on Twitter & customer care emails.
After I couldn't get much headway from #1, #2 worked smoothly. The RE customer care is pretty active and will help to repair or replace as the case may be. After my dump on RE's twitter handle, I got calls from the same folks who'd started to feign ignorance at svc center and they even assigned a dedicated supervisor.

For minor issues and usual servicing
3. Find a trusted RE mechanic - There are many RE svc/repair workshops whose mechanics are regularly trained from RE (and have certificates to show). Besides this the experienced hands are easy to identify, it might take some looking around but "they" are there.

You don't have to live with it, it would take some time but just get it fixed for the sake of ride quality you'd experience at the end of it.

Thanks for your inputs. I have reached out to RE, got contacted by customer care and the service advisor but they acknowledged the problem saying "all enfields have it".

The service center nowadays gets so many bikes to service, they don't even lube the essential parts. Despite regular "servicing", my cables got jammed. I have a feeling they just change the oil and wash the bike and give it back.

One of the members here on team-bhp gave me Anthony's contact and I got my bike serviced by him last week. First time in my life, I actually saw what goes inside a disc brake since they opened it up and cleaned the brake pads, changed the engine oil, lubed the cables, etc. Good job and attention showered on my bike

[bullet_chacha]

Hey everyone.

Can someone throw some light on the length of the TB front brake hose?

[The_Mad_Hatter]

Just a quick question: What are the exact torque figures of a 2004 Electra 4S? I don't have the owner's manual for mine, and various sources read either 27 Nm or 32 Nm, so I was just looking for some confirmation. I assume that the 32 Nm figure would apply to the heavier crank engines?

[abhijeetK]

What will be the cost for fitting disk brakes on standard 350 UCE? Spare parts needed would be Front fork legs (Don't know whether i need to buy complete fork assembly or just lower leg), Wheel hub, Master cylinder, Disk and caliper.

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by The_Mad_Hatter

Just a quick question: What are the exact torque figures of a 2004 Electra 4S? I don't have the owner's manual for mine, and various sources read either 27 Nm or 32 Nm, so I was just looking for some confirmation. I assume that the 32 Nm figure would apply to the heavier crank engines?

32 Nm. Only the UCE and AVL 350s are 28/27.5 Nm respectively.

Cheers,

Jay

[justwheels]

Hi RE fans, need some advise on my Thunderbird 350. The bike is only 8500 km run and is around 2 years old now. My biggest issue with the bike apart from the small niggles is that the bike literally crashes on the uneven roads. I get a feeling as if I am riding a bike with leaf springs and not shock absorbers. I need to go very very slow on uneven roads to make sure I don't get a jarring hit to my back and my hands. Now this is my first RE experience and have not ridden any other RE ever so can't compare.

On idle, when I try to press the front forks or the shocks at the back, they tend to have some travel but when the bike goes over the uneven roads or potholes, it gives me a shudder on my hands and a crash feeling on my back. I ride my bike regularly to office and it has started to take a toll on me. Also, the vibrations are just too annoying beyond 80 kmph and at any higher rpm on a lower gear if using engine braking.

Are these normal behaviors of an RE Thunderbird. I have no faith in the Service center, they have no idea what I am talking of and most of them only know to wash and change oils. I have reached a state that I want to let go of the bike. I like riding it honestly but the fatigue it creates dampens my spirits. Will love to hear from the experts. Are my expectations wrong or the bike has an issue.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by justwheels

Hi RE fans, need some advise on my Thunderbird 350.tations wrong or the bike has an issue.

Check two things first.
1.If your tyre pressure is as per specs.
2. That your rear shock absorbers are adjusted to suit your body weight and riding style.

Most probably the rear shocks are adjusted way too rigid.

[VW2010]

I need to go very very slow on uneven roads to make sure I don't get a jarring hit to my back and my hands

Are you hearing any metallic sounds? Ideally the bike should ride over uneven roads with ease just because of its bigger tyres and overall weight. Check the following

- How is your rear suspension tuned
- Any loose nuts/bots
- Do you have difficulty in turning the bike(bent fork in the front)
- Do you see any oil leaking from the fork or already leaked out that you didnt notice
- Triple clamp - Is it fine
- Handle bars - Are they fitting snugly and do they have bar end weights.


Based on limited information appears your rear shocks are stiff and the front is purely a poor seating position. The handle bar is slightly far away from your reach and you are basically reaching out to the handle bars.

Ideally you should get a mild bend on your elbow which acts as a human hand suspension. Adjust your handle bar and move it towards you if thats an issue.


Explain Crash feeling? Unable to visualize what this feeling is

80kmph - There is a point where the bike moves from rough to smooth at high speed also. May be you are riding at a point in top gear where you are actually not pushing it slightly more. I dont know how to scientifically put it , i am just comparing my 500. There is a distinct point when my 500 moves from high vibration say 4000RPm to a far smoother mild vibrations at 4500 RPM. I think its because of load, vs pull vs RPM and nothing to do with speed in the Dial.

[justwheels]

Originally Posted by adrian

Check two things first.

1.If your tyre pressure is as per specs.

2. That your rear shock absorbers are adjusted to suit your body weight and riding style.



Most probably the rear shocks are adjusted way too rigid.

Tyre pressure is as per specs. Infact the ride was better when the tyre pressure was lower, cushioning the ride a bit.

Will have the shocks checked for adjustments and report back. They are as they came from factory.

Originally Posted by VW2010

Are you hearing any metallic sounds? Ideally the bike should ride over uneven roads with ease just because of its bigger tyres and overall weight. Check the following

- How is your rear suspension tuned
- Any loose nuts/bots
- Do you have difficulty in turning the bike(bent fork in the front)
- Do you see any oil leaking from the fork or already leaked out that you didnt notice
- Triple clamp - Is it fine
- Handle bars - Are they fitting snugly and do they have bar end weights.

Will have the suspension checked for adjustments. No loose bolts or nuts that I can locate.
No visible oil leakage. The front forks do have a damped travel when I test while standing, so can't be without oil for sure.
Triple clamp-? No idea

Originally Posted by VW2010

Based on limited information appears your rear shocks are stiff and the front is purely a poor seating position. The handle bar is slightly far away from your reach and you are basically reaching out to the handle bars.

Ideally you should get a mild bend on your elbow which acts as a human hand suspension. Adjust your handle bar and move it towards you if thats an issue.

Handle bars: I am 5ft 10 inches, so have a tall enough posture to get the natural bend on my elbows. Infact if I loosen my trip on the handle when going through a pot hole, the handle Hits my palm with a shudder and not damped.

Originally Posted by VW2010

Explain Crash feeling? Unable to visualize what this feeling is

I just meant it's not damped or supple, it's like "thud". But not a thud that comes if the suspension bottoms out.

Originally Posted by VW2010

80kmph - There is a point where the bike moves from rough to smooth at high speed also. May be you are riding at a point in top gear where you are actually not pushing it slightly more. I dont know how to scientifically put it , i am just comparing my 500. There is a distinct point when my 500 moves from high vibration say 4000RPm to a far smoother mild vibrations at 4500 RPM. I think its because of load, vs pull vs RPM and nothing to do with speed in the Dial.

Will try to keenly observe this and revert back.


Sometimes i feel that may be I am expecting a rather plush ride from the bike when it's not supposed to give me that on broken roads, I might be new to RE rides but have been riding since 12 years now and can sense the difference.

[farhadtarapore]

My TB 500 experiences a "thud" when going over bumps, but it's the instrument pod dashing against the handlebar (the small space that's there). My instrument pod clamp has totally rusted. I put a small piece of tyre tube rubber and the noise was gone. Otherwise, the suspension is good over our roads.

[B O V]

An electrical problem just cropped up on my motorcycle.

Was riding and I had to honk, as soon as I did, a pft sound happened and the horn wasn't working and the bike would just rev without significant acceleration.

I thought some sort of over voltage or excess current flowing through and checked by application of the blinkers. Problem resolved.

After a while the blinker too blew out.

I checked the fuse and it's intact. Any thoughts?

Its an 83 cast iron.

[bhasker]

Hi Members,

1. I own a Thunderbird 350. During a recent service at RE authorised service centre, the clutch plates were changed on mechanic's advice. For the first 50 km the gear shifting seemed to be smooth. But suddenly after that, the gear shifting has become very rough. What could be the problem ? Please advice.

2. The stock rear tyre on TB350 is 120/80 18" profile, similar to Classic. Since my bike has clocked 35,000 km, I would need to replace the tyre. Also, I will be doing a hill to Kaza soon. I am looking for a tyre with good grip and puncture resistance. Please provide the available options for rear tyre.

3. Thanks !

[adrian]

Originally Posted by B O V

An electrical problem just cropped up on my motorcycle.

Was riding and I had to honk, as soon as I did, a pft sound happened and the horn wasn't working and the bike would just rev without significant acceleration.

I thought some sort of over voltage or excess current flowing through and checked by application of the blinkers. Problem resolved.

After a while the blinker too blew out.

I checked the fuse and it's intact. Any thoughts?

Its an 83 cast iron.

Check your voltage regulator.