[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Although some shops that specialize in repairing speedometers exist, usually the cost is not worth the trouble.

Say,if one has to replace the speedo/odo meter unit with a new one,is it possible to retain the original reading of the odometer?
Or do we have to keep a record,like the bike has done a total of X Kms,Y on the original odo and Z on the new one?

Thanks,
Abhishek

[The_Mad_Hatter]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Say,if one has to replace the speedo/odo meter unit with a new one,is it possible to retain the original reading of the odometer?
Or do we have to keep a record,like the bike has done a total of X Kms,Y on the original odo and Z on the new one?

Thanks,
Abhishek

I've done the latter. I've replaced the Odo on my Electra and still have the old one with me, which still shows its last reading prior to replacement.
Even I wondered if the new Odo could be preset to the last reading of the original, but before I could ask, my service centre went ahead and installed the new one set to zero.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Say,if one has to replace the speedo/odo meter unit with a new one,is it possible to retain the original reading of the odometer?
Or do we have to keep a record,like the bike has done a total of X Kms,Y on the original odo and Z on the new one?

Thanks,
Abhishek

Originally Posted by The_Mad_Hatter

I've done the latter. I've replaced the Odo on my Electra and still have the old one with me, which still shows its last reading prior to replacement.
Even I wondered if the new Odo could be preset to the last reading of the original, but before I could ask, my service centre went ahead and installed the new one set to zero.

It can be done.
You need to find one of those small meter calibrating shops and they can set the odometer to the number you tell them to.

The trouble is finding such a shop who can do a good job without breaking anything. I was lucky enough to find a small shop who calibrated my speedometer so well that it was just +/-2 from the GPS reading and it remained that way since couple of years now.

The speedo on my bike failed just once apart from the cable breaking few times. The hub gear for the speedo was changed from plastic to metal and that has stayed since. I hate riding when the speedo and odo doesn't work.

[The Great]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Say,if one has to replace the speedo/odo meter unit with a new one,is it possible to retain the original reading of the odometer?
Or do we have to keep a record,like the bike has done a total of X Kms,Y on the original odo and Z on the new one?

Thanks,
Abhishek

Just got the same repair done.

Here in Mumbai there is a guy called George near mahim who repairs all meters and I had written down my previous reading and asked him to keep the original reading after the repair.

In all the old style manual meters (non digital) it is possible.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

(The speedometer is basically a sealed unit and there is not much that can be done to fix the bushings, magnetic drive unit or needle if you open it.)

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

is it possible to retain the original reading of the odometer?
Or do we have to keep a record,like the bike has done a total of X Kms,Y on the original odo and Z on the new one?

Originally Posted by The_Mad_Hatter

but before I could ask, my service centre went ahead and installed the new one set to zero.

Originally Posted by tharian

It can be done...
The trouble is finding such a shop who can do a good job

Originally Posted by The Great

In all the old style manual meters (non digital) it is possible.

Thank you all for pitching in. Meter replacement is not a concern and neither is the reading as to what it shall be and what not ( or should I be?). But with just 30+ on the odo, is it a time for the original meter to get kaput. I was expecting something around 99k+ for the meter to survive.

Natural wear and tear is definitely expected, but I do take proper care of Amun-Ra and its always under a covered parking. My Dad's LML Vespa XE has infact started again from 0, a couple of years back.

Also please advise manufacturer of replacement if the unit needs to be replaced?

By the way, just in case I replace the unit, how will the services etc work? RE Showrooms have the habit of noting down the meter readings before starting anything. So now after 3+ years, will it be again considered as a new bullet?

[The_Mad_Hatter]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Thank you all for pitching in. Meter replacement is not a concern and neither is the reading as to what it shall be and what not ( or should I be?). But with just 30+ on the odo, is it a time for the original meter to get kaput. I was expecting something around 99k+ for the meter to survive.

Natural wear and tear is definitely expected, but I do take proper care of Amun-Ra and its always under a covered parking. My Dad's LML Vespa XE has infact started again from 0, a couple of years back.

Also please advise manufacturer of replacement if the unit needs to be replaced?

By the way, just in case I replace the unit, how will the services etc work? RE Showrooms have the habit of noting down the meter readings before starting anything. So now after 3+ years, will it be again considered as a new bullet?

These meters rarely completely die. Possibly the only issue you would face with the meters (barring any direct physical damage) would be the cables getting cut. That has happened to me only once during 8 years of owning my Machismo 350.

As Tharian said, if you change the plastic meter gear to metal, you could greatly minimize the risk of cut cables.

[petrolhead_chn]

Originally Posted by adrian

All the best with your venture

Thank you adrian. I had the special tool with me. But it did not work out. I wasn't able to adjustment the setting. I finally left it like that because the shocks seem to have given off. They would not budge by even a few millimeters when I bump it up/down. They are just stiff/rigid. Nevertheless, I cleaned the carb and got rid of lot of rust inside. I know I must clean the insides of fuel tank as well. I will have to wait till the next weekend to complete the tank cleaning

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If one of these bonding products is not available, one of the Silicone RTV's can also be used to bond things like metal or plastic badges in place. Just use it like you would a really thick glue and use masking tape or a similar tape to hold the emblem in place for 6--10 hours for the RTV to cure.

Hey Jim, are you referring to the product that is used to stick the glasses of fish tanks If yes, I have one already and can try it instantly. Hope the painter's mask tape would hold the badge in place for the duration you have mentioned. The usual tapes might leave a sticky mark on paint after removal.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

They would not budge by even a few millimeters when I bump it up/down.

I hope you tried to adjust the rear shocks without load on them; i.e. with the motorcycle in the center stand and the rear tyre off the ground. If you did try the procedure on the center stand and still the shocks didn't budge, there is a chance that the notches are dirty or rusted. The next thing to try would be to lubricate the notches with WD 40 and tap it a few times with a rubber hammer before prying it with the special spanner.

edit : Regarding the shock absorbers not moving, read post #1795 in the following link

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...eries-120.html

[adrian]

Does any one know of any special tool to tighten the brake plate nut of Bullet (Old ones as well as the new standard with drum brakes)?



I loosen and tighten the nut by holding the wheel spindle on a bench wise, which is a chore. Want to know if there are any work arounds or special tools available.
regards adrian

[TheRajput]

I had changed the stock exhaust on my classic 350 to a wildboar & after 4 months of usage, it has started rusting from both the ends. Is there any solution to remove the rust from the exhaust?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by adrian

Does any one know of any special tool to tighten the brake plate nut of Bullet (Old ones as well as the new standard with drum brakes)?

adrian mate the part you are referring to is the front brake spindle nut. Have you tried using either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch 6 point deep socket. I am not sure about the size but a deep socket will make your job easier.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

adrian mate the part you are referring to is the front brake spindle nut. Have you tried using either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch 6 point deep socket. I am not sure about the size but a deep socket will make your job easier.

Dear Navin, the problem is that the spindle and nut which holds the brake plate to the spindle and the brake plate itself rotates together. In order to remove the nut, you will have to arrest the movement of the spindle. In the case of a severely torqued nut, the spindle slips even when crushed between the soft jaws of a bench wise, when you try to pry the nut open.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by adrian

Dear Navin, the problem is that the spindle and nut which holds the brake plate to the spindle and the brake plate itself rotates together. In order to remove the nut, you will have to arrest the movement of the spindle. In the case of a severely torqued nut, the spindle slips even when crushed between the soft jaws of a bench wise, when you try to pry the nut open.

If there is a hole in the spindle then you can insert a thin rod inside it to arrest it while tightening/loosening the spindle nut.

[The_Mad_Hatter]

For a CI Bullet, would it be best to have a 1000 km interval between oil top-ups? I'm pretty sure the oil change interval is 3000 km, but since the old CIs are not as efficient with oil circulation as the newer ones, I was just wondering if a 1000 km top-up interval would be better for the engine.

[anilp]

Originally Posted by The_Mad_Hatter

For a CI Bullet, would it be best to have a 1000 km interval between oil top-ups?

CIs can be tricky when it comes to oil levels. Instead of a 1000 km frequency, it's safer to check levels on a weekly basis and top it off as per requirement.