[Majumdarda]

Hello all,

It seems that odometer casing (which consists of levers / gears as I have been informed) has malfunctioned again. This is thrice in three years, the last one was few months back, when the front tire was removed and then inserted back. What is the life of this device? Is their a better quality available?

Please refer the highlighted portions in the below images.





I did remove the cable from the slot and when I move it manually, there is deflection of the needle. But again when I fix it back, the needle malfunctions.

Infact, while traversing approx 20 kilometers this morning, the needle steadily and linearly climbed up-to 80, with no regards to if I apply break or slow down or open the throttle. It was a slow incremental rise and after I reached destination, it came back to 0

Regards,

[ArizonaJim]

Without really looking at the parts, this is only a guess.

The fact that the speedometer is registering as you are riding indicates that the gear system inside the unit you have highlighted is working.

This is a very simple device which only has a few gears in it.
The gears change the rotation of the wheel to a direction that can turn the cable which runs to the speedometer.
The gears also are sized to change the rotational speed of the wheel to a different speed which your speedometer can use to show the correct km/hr reading on the dial.

One thing that can cause the speedometer to indicate a incorrect speed is a lack of lubrication inside the cable.

If the inner, rotating steel cable is not lubricated, it can experience a condition where it stops turning for an instant.
If it does this it tends to "wind up" like the spring that it is.
When the tension gets great enough it will unwind rapidly in a sudden burst of rotational speed.

The speedometer, at the upper end of the cable sees this rapid burst of speed and interpreters it as the speed the machine is moving so, it says your going much faster than you really are.

If this is the problem with your motorcycle, unscrew the knurled nut where the speedometer cable attaches to the drive unit on the wheel.

Pull the inner cable completely out of the outer sheath and apply some lightweight grease to it.
I recommend using something like Petroleum Jelly. Yes, the stuff that people put on small cuts and abrasions on their body. In the US, Vaseline is a common brand but there are a large number of companies that make the stuff.
Buy it at your local drug store if you don't have any.

When you apply the P.J. to the cable, apply lots of it.
While you are doing this, push the cable in and out of the outer sheath, rotating it with your fingers while you do it.
The idea here is to completely coat the inside of the sheath and the outside of the cable so it is lubricated everywhere.

Putting the cable back in can be a little difficult.
The cable has a square on both ends and the square must fit into the square hole on both the input for the speedometer and the square hole on the output of the drive unit.

The drive unit end is no problem but I've found that I usually have to push the cable in and if it doesn't go all the way, I pull it out a few Cm, turn it, and try again.
Sooner or later, about the time I decide that I'm going to have to unfasten the upper end of the sheath from the bottom of the speedometer, it suddenly slides into place.
(So far I've been lucky and I haven't had to mess with the upper end of the cable.
It's not that it is such a big thing to unscrew but the less work I have to do, the better.)

Once you have lubricated and installed your cable, take a ride to see if things are working.

Sometimes, the drive cable will get rusted up internally and no amount of grease will fix it. If your greasing didn't solve the problem, you need to buy a new cable.
You do not need a new lower drive unit.

That said, I've seen cases where someone who didn't know what they were doing changed the front tyre.

When they put the wheel back on, they mixed up the spacers that go on either side of the wheel.
When this happens, the drive unit cannot engage the wheel hub properly and it will usually fail to work at all. (Almost never will it register a speed that is too fast).

If the drive unit is only making a partial engagement with the hub and you don't know which spacer goes where on the axle, it might be worthwhile to take your motorcycle to a service center where the people know exactly how to reassemble the drive unit, hub, spacers and the axle.

[drsingh]

Guys ,I have an Enfield thunderbird 500 in storage for 2 months.Do I need to take some precautions like draining/refilling the engine oil? Or can I just kick start it to life.?

[prasanna_indaje]

Originally Posted by drsingh

Guys ,I have an Enfield thunderbird 500 in storage for 2 months.Do I need to take some precautions like draining/refilling the engine oil? Or can I just kick start it to life.?

Just kick start and start riding. Ideally it will come to life in a couple of kicks. Unless battery is down.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by drsingh

Guys ,I have an Enfield thunderbird 500 in storage for 2 months.Do I need to take some precautions like draining/refilling the engine oil? Or can I just kick start it to life.?

Mate I hope you had disconnected the battery terminals during those two months lest the battery would be drained. The stock 12V 14Ah Exide battery is notorious to discharge if left unattended for longer periods. You can use a fuel stabilizer of any brand(Sta-bil is a popular brand) while keeping your bike in storage for longer periods.

Before your start your bike press and release the clutch lever for a few times to free the clutch. With the ignition off you can kick the kick lever a few times softly and gently. Pay attention to the IC, if your battery icon starts flashing it means your battery has discharged. Notice the engine check light, in case it comes on then there might be an issue with the fuel injector. These two symptoms are common for RE UCE 500's with EFi stored for longer periods.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

One thing that can cause the speedometer to indicate a incorrect speed is a lack of lubrication inside the cable.

That is possible. But after I had removed the cable from the wheel case, even with slight movement by fingers, there was noticeable deflection. Guess the levers rotate much faster.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Pull the inner cable completely out of the outer sheath and apply some lightweight grease to it.
I recommend using something like Petroleum Jelly.

I happen to have white grease with me as well. Though I can manage Petroleum Jelly, but will white grease work better. Its the one which is used mainly at the service stations.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Putting the cable back in can be a little difficult.
The cable has a square on both ends and the square must fit into the square hole on both the input for the speedometer and the square hole on the output of the drive unit.
The drive unit end is no problem but I've found that I usually have to push the cable in and if it doesn't go all the way, I pull it out a few Cm, turn it, and try again.
Sooner or later, about the time I decide that I'm going to have to unfasten the upper end of the sheath from the bottom of the speedometer, it suddenly slides into place.
(So far I've been lucky and I haven't had to mess with the upper end of the cable.
It's not that it is such a big thing to unscrew but the less work I have to do, the better.)

Precisely that is the concern here as well. There is no issue at the drive wheel end. In fact its like plug, screw and play. But am not too sure how much comfortable I will be in fixing the top end back into that socket with the precise adjustment of matching the square ends. Presumably I have to remove the headlight casing for that.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

You do not need a new lower drive unit.

I sincerely wish the same too as its just been a few months after the last replacement; with just around 2K on the odometer and a daily running of around 30-40 kms.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

That said, I've seen cases where someone who didn't know what they were doing changed the front tyre.
When they put the wheel back on, they mixed up the spacers that go on either side of the wheel.

Should not be a case here as it was working perfectly well till the night of 22nd and in the next day morning I found the glitch.

A point worth mentioning here, might be related, is at times I take a path less traveled, which can better be expressed as moon surface, with me doing the moon ride. Not too frequent but its used only at a time of heavy traffic on the main road and I am in a hurry. With all these little travels (say 10 kms both ways), one of the front number plate screws fell off. So without taking any risks, the number plate has gone into storage. Can the road condition have any role in the malfunctioning of the gear levers or the misalignment of the spacers? Thankfully no noticeable damage on rims though and straight line stability is acceptable (bear in mind that there is slight chassis out because of one accident I had, months back)

[Ponbaarathi]

Have anyone tried puncture sealants like Slime, etc. for tubed tyres? Are they really worth? I am planning for a solo trip and in need of a puncture sealant.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

...

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

...
A point worth mentioning here, might be related, is at times I take a path less traveled, which can better be expressed as moon surface, with me doing the moon ride. Not too frequent but its used only at a time of heavy traffic on the main road and I am in a hurry. With all these little travels (say 10 kms both ways), one of the front number plate screws fell off. So without taking any risks, the number plate has gone into storage. Can the road condition have any role in the malfunctioning of the gear levers or the misalignment of the spacers? Thankfully no noticeable damage on rims though and straight line stability is acceptable (bear in mind that there is slight chassis out because of one accident I had, months back)

The left reading [35664] is when I started and the right one [35684] is after I reached home. The total distance covered is 20 and its correct. That means the readings are happening, but the meter deflection is not taking place.

I tried pulling out the cable from the wheel end, but the top portion seems to be stuck and I have to remove the headlight casing to remove it all together. Will give it a look in the morning of tomorrow.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by Ponbaarathi

Have anyone tried puncture sealants like Slime, etc. for tubed tyres? Are they really worth? I am planning for a solo trip and in need of a puncture sealant.

I have a bottle of Slime lying at home. Ordered it for tubed tyres. Haven't used it yet though. The instructions say to deflate the tyre fully, then pump in the slime and refill to the required pressure. Then ride it for a few kms to spread it evenly.

[petrolhead_chn]

Guys, 3 queries and am looking for suggestions.

1. Has anyone tried adjusting the rear shock absorbers on STD350 UCE? Mine seems to be still and would not budge by even a few mm when I life the rear part of the bike. With 11k on odo I wanted to check if it needs replacement or just adjustments?

2. How to check if the diaphragm in carb is kaput, like scratch marks due to impurities in fuel etc.,

3. I managed to break the heads of screws that hold the RE badge to the tank. I fear the lathe guys will do a perfect job causing damage to the entire tank. Is there a neat workaround? I tried drilling out the bit using a small motor available at electrical shop in vain

I am looking to sort these out in my bull this weekend as it has been long pending.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

Guys, 3 queries and am looking for suggestions.

1. Has anyone tried adjusting the rear shock absorbers on STD350 UCE? Mine seems to be still and would not budge by even a few mm when I life the rear part of the bike. With 11k on odo I wanted to check if it needs replacement or just adjustments?
.

The rear shocks can be adjusted with a special tool. It is available with RE authorized parts dealers. Picture and part code as below.

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

2. How to check if the diaphragm in carb is kaput, like scratch marks due to impurities in fuel etc.,
.

Remove the rubber bellows that connects the carburetor to the resonator box. If you look into the carburetor, you can see the piston of the carburetor. Inspect the surface for scratches, which are prone on the intake side. Move the piston up with the finger and release it. It should move freely. For more details, see the following video made by this Gentleman, who is doing a great job spreading the knowledge of motorcycle maintenance

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vya4JzDVI3g

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

3. I managed to break the heads of screws that hold the RE badge to the tank. I fear the lathe guys will do a perfect job causing damage to the entire tank. Is there a neat workaround? I tried drilling out the bit using a small motor available at electrical shop in vain
.

You can do two things:

1. Plug off the remaining holes and fix the new tank motiff which is a stick on type.

2. If you love the old tank motiff, get a drill bit that is smaller than the shank size of the screw and carefully drill the broken screw out.

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

I am looking to sort these out in my bull this weekend as it has been long pending.

All the best with your venture

[ArizonaJim]

Reattaching the tank badge is not a big problem if one of the many automotive type trim adhesives is used.

These products are made by 3M, Dow, Devcon and others and provide strong bonding.
Most of these products are resistant to fuel spills.

If one of these bonding products is not available, one of the Silicone RTV's can also be used to bond things like metal or plastic badges in place. Just use it like you would a really thick glue and use masking tape or a similar tape to hold the emblem in place for 6--10 hours for the RTV to cure.

Most Silicone RTV's are not particularly fuel resistant but an occasional small spill won't harm it.

No. This won't fix the hole where the screw was (assuming it is visible) but that doesn't present too large of a problem if a similar replacement screw can be found.

The head of the replacement screw can be cut off of the screw shank by holding the shank with a pair of pliers (locking type recommended) and using a hack saw. (Most repair shops will have one.)

Once the screw head is cut off of the screw, use the RTV to bond it into the hole. (Wipe off any excess RTV with a rag before it cures.)

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

...

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Attachment 1578527

The left reading [35664] is when I started and the right one [35684] is after I reached home. The total distance covered is 20 and its correct. That means the readings are happening, but the meter deflection is not taking place.

I tried pulling out the cable from the wheel end, but the top portion seems to be stuck and I have to remove the headlight casing to remove it all together. Will give it a look in the morning of tomorrow.

ArizonaJim would like to hear from you before I progress further. As of today, the speed deflection is not happening whereas the distance covered is showing perfectly. This is quite surprising for me and wonder what might be the cause for this.

[Vikvkv]

Hey friends I have installed wild boar exhaust on my tbts 350 and it has been close to 3k kms since the change from stock exhaust. My query is post the speed of 50kmph I experience a dead zone where the bike requires some more acceleration to go further, it doesn't cruise and I feel the bike runs out of breath. Is this because of the exhaust change. I believe the silencer is a free flow as I can see through it from end to end. Apart from this any speed above 60kmph is very audible and the thump sound is missing and I only hear a humming sound. Also In stop and go traffic when the bike is in 2nd gear the bike requires some effort to move and sometimes it lugs. Kindly advise me in this regard.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

ArizonaJim would like to hear from you before I progress further. As of today, the speed deflection is not happening whereas the distance covered is showing perfectly. This is quite surprising for me and wonder what might be the cause for this.

If the speedometer is showing the distance covered but it is not showing the velocity, the unit is most likely beyond help.

The fact that is is showing distance says the drive system and cable are working. With it not showing the velocity it says there is something wrong with the bearings/bushings inside the unit.

Although some shops that specialize in repairing speedometers exist, usually the cost is not worth the trouble.

(The speedometer is basically a sealed unit and there is not much that can be done to fix the bushings, magnetic drive unit or needle if you open it.)