[Dodge_Viper]

Is it possible to wire the Aux LED lights to the pass switch? Currently I have a separate switch to toggle it on/off, but I also want to connect them to pass switch.

[jacs]

Ever since I acquired my TB500, the stock MRF Zappers has been a worry in my mind. Not that I had any incidents yet but may be car ownerships nailed in mind better names like Michelin, Pirelli etc. And I happened to see the wheels of ContiGT.

Somehow I feel a set of better wheels would equip me in longer rides with pillion and luggage. I am not really worried about Fuel efficiency as bike is used only for occasional rides to chill my soul. An upgrade should provide me more comfort, safety and reliability .

Please share your experiences.

[vidyasagar]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If a binding area does not loosen up after applying some oil, the entire chain will need to be replaced.

This was the exact problem. I replaced the entire chain, costed me INR 556/-
The chain is not covered under guarantee as I learnt

The problem by the way is completely resolved. Bike runs smooth like before.

[HONESTabdul]

Dear all. I am about to go for a thunderbird 350 . I am worried about rear wheel dismantling in case of a puncture. The whole thing looks quite complicated. Could anyone post pics/videos of the process?

[Rugged]

[quote=navin_v8
Rugged mate I am sure the carb slider will be available as a separate spare unit. One does not need to change the entire carb due to the slider, at least the carb slider in CI 350 can be replaced without buying a new carb. I am assuming the same will also be true for new series carb used on RE's. Do check with RE authorized spares shop if the carb slider is available as a replacement part.[/QUOTE]

Hi Navin and ArizonaJim,
I did change the Slider , the pickup has improved slightly.
Off late i have noticed a particular single beat "Tub" when i dis-engage the acceleration while driving.
Moreover when i start the vehicle in the morning the idling wont even last 3 seconds, at times the engine dies at signal stopover :(
I am really worried about my bike. It has never been the same since accident, (was kept in garage for a month)

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by Rugged

Hi Navin and ArizonaJim,

Moreover when i start the vehicle in the morning the idling wont even last 3 seconds, at times the engine dies at signal stopover :(

Hey, mine hasn't been in an accident, but on cold start, the engine sometimes dies when idling, also if I let it idle for 10-20 seconds and twist throttle slightly, the engine just dies.
And it almost never starts up in the first time on pressing self-start button. Takes two or three tries minimum.

[farhadtarapore]

MOD: please merge this with above, I cannot see the "Edit" button anymore. Thank you.

I made a video of the sound I am getting when I turn the rear wheel of my thunderbird 500. It's as if the disc is clamping the wheel. There is also a squealing sound that comes. Service center chaps say it's due to rains and moisture.
Will spraying WD-40 help? Or will it damage the brake pads?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6dhfjV_5E0

[Nilesh5417]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hey, mine hasn't been in an accident, but on cold start, the engine sometimes dies when idling, also if I let it idle for 10-20 seconds and twist throttle slightly, the engine just dies.
And it almost never starts up in the first time on pressing self-start button. Takes two or three tries minimum.

Recommend to kick start the bike with the choke the first time in the early morning. And then probably for the next couple of times until the engine warms up. It won't be such a problem later during the day when its sunny and warm.

I was never a fan of the self-start introduced back then in 2005 or so. I got the sprag-clutch removed in the first year itself. The ES always gave me high hopes that my bike would start instantly if it died on the traffic light. But sadly the reality was that i got glares and honks from everyone behind me cause it simply refused to start with the ES! I hope the ES has improved on the newer REs.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by Nilesh5417

Recommend to kick start the bike with the choke the first time in the early morning. And then probably for the next couple of times until the engine warms up. It won't be such a problem later during the day when its sunny and warm.

I was never a fan of the self-start introduced back then in 2005 or so. I got the sprag-clutch removed in the first year itself. The ES always gave me high hopes that my bike would start instantly if it died on the traffic light. But sadly the reality was that i got glares and honks from everyone behind me cause it simply refused to start with the ES! I hope the ES has improved on the newer REs.

I tried that religiously for 6 months. Then my knees started aching considering the sheer number of kicks required to start the bike. I got the breather pipes replaced, etc. but no use. It's appalling that a company like RE still cannot get a self start right. And even more unfortunate that there is no bike out there in my budget that ticks all the boxes for a suitable replacement: comfortable for pillion, ABS, powerful. Was considering the D390, but the rear is simply too small. Versys 650 is out of my budget considering that I don't want to ride a 8 lakh rupee bike in our traffic on our roads.

[anilp]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

I made a video of the sound I am getting when I turn the rear wheel of my thunderbird 500. It's as if the disc is clamping the wheel. There is also a squealing sound that comes. Service center chaps say it's due to rains and moisture.
Will spraying WD-40 help? Or will it damage the brake pads?
]

Clean the disks and the calipers with plain water. Preferably a low pressure hose. It's muck from the roads that's creating the noise as it accumulates. Nothing to worry about.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

MOD: please merge this with above, I cannot see the "Edit" button anymore. Thank you.

I made a video of the sound I am getting when I turn the rear wheel of my thunderbird 500. It's as if the disc is clamping the wheel. There is also a squealing sound that comes. Service center chaps say it's due to rains and moisture.
Will spraying WD-40 help? Or will it damage the brake pads?

Never. Never Never , put any sort of lubricant on a brake disk or on the brake pads.

Oil of any kind on a brake pad, disk or on the inside of a brake drum will keep the brake from working.

WD 40 is a Water Displacement fluid that has a high percentage of oil in it.
Although it is not the best lubricant available, it is still oily enough to cause harm to the brakes.

If oil of any kind does get on the brake disks or pads, it will require the use of a "Disk Brake Cleaner" to remove all of the traces of oil before the brake will work to stop the motorcycle.

The sound in your video does sound like the brake pads are dragging slightly.

There is nothing really wrong with that. Often disk brake pads lightly "kiss" the disk although it usually doesn't cause much noise.

There have been cases where the disk pads did not release their grip on the disk and this can lead to the disk and brake pads overheating.
That can lead to a temporary brake failure if the brake fluid begins to boil but if this is a problem, it is easily detected by rotating the wheel as you did in the video.

If the wheel is hard to turn, you have a problem.

If the wheel is easy to turn (as yours seems to be) you really don't have a problem other than the slight sound.

I suggest that you ignore it and ride the motorcycle. Usually, the pads will wear some and the dragging noise will stop all by itself.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If the wheel is hard to turn, you have a problem.

If the wheel is easy to turn (as yours seems to be) you really don't have a problem other than the slight sound.

Thanks for a detailed answer, as always. The wheel doesn't rotate for one full turn if I turn it with all my might (perhaps I need bigger arms). Is that a problem? It goes for just a quarter turn or half and then stops. It's not freely moving, but it's not jammed either.

[LazyGunner]

I came across a TB350 at my friend's workshop which had issues in its rear disc.
When it came for regular servicing, mechanics found that the DOT3/DOT4 oil which is used for the disc brake was not present. The container was dry. Our mechanics poured the oil and pumped the rear brake pedal for over 45min but not a single drop went in. However, there was air coming out of rear end of the tube.
Upon speaking to the owner, he said his rear brake was problematic for a long time and no RE service center fixed it. And gradually, his TB started with a new problem. Every 10-12km once the rear disc would get heated up like crazy and rear tyre would get jammed. and after 15-20min, automatically it would cool down allowing a ride of another 10-12km. Once it happened close to a Castrol Bike point and he took it there. They spent close to 3 hours and found that, in the owner's words - "some spindle was not fit properly and they have done a work around".
Now, he has no idea what's the work around they did, but the disc jamming has disappeared. However, the rear brake still doesn't work as it should!!

I hope somebody here can shed some light on this..

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by LazyGunner

I came across a TB350 at my friend's workshop which had issues in its rear disc.

Every 10-12km once the rear disc would get heated up like crazy and rear tyre would get jammed. and after 15-20min, automatically it would cool down allowing a ride of another 10-12km. Once it happened close to a Castrol Bike point and he took it there. They spent close to 3 hours and found that, in the owner's words - "some spindle was not fit properly and they have done a work around".
Now, he has no idea what's the work around they did, but the disc jamming has disappeared. However, the rear brake still doesn't work as it should!!

LazyGunner mate what the Castrol bike point guys said is true. A disc brake assembly is made up of many parts out of which the disc brake pad and the disc rotor itself are the first to get affected in case of a goof up while assembling them. This mostly happens when the disc rotor or the brake pads are changed. If the guy who is carrying out this job does not assemble all the parts correctly with precision(read misaligned calipers and lock pin and guide pin) there are chances that the brake might overheat due to improper assembling.

This once happened with my Mitsubishi Lancer wherein the front right brake wasn't assembled properly after a brake disc pad change. As a result the brake rotor overheated and smoke started coming out. I crawled to the service station and got it rectified, the culprit was improper assembly after brake disc pad change. The entire front right brake assembly was removed and refitted back together, albeit this time with precision. The problem has disappeared since then. I believe the Castrol bike point guys would've done the same.

When it came for regular servicing, mechanics found that the DOT3/DOT4 oil which is used for the disc brake was not present. The container was dry. Our mechanics poured the oil and pumped the rear brake pedal for over 45min but not a single drop went in.

This looks like a classic case of air trapped inside the brake lines. The brake lines needs to be bleeded to remove the air inside them. What is the total mileage of your friends' bike? The brake fluid reservoir running dry is not good news unless there is a leak somewhere.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

I tried that religiously for 6 months. Then my knees started aching considering the sheer number of kicks required to start the bike.

Always try not to use kick start in cold condition. please refer this thread from our very own Randhwa - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...thread-37.html
Infact even the owners manual says to use electric + Choke during cold start conditions.

If the electric start isnt working, then it needs to be checked, changed or replaced to make it work