[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by The Great

...

You can check the NCB will be mentioned on your policy below Basic OD premium.

Thank you The Great. Yes its mentioned there and thus at peace of mind. Best regards,

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate I saw the videos you've posted where the electric start video shows you've not inserted the spark plug on the left.

The spark plug is installed in the engine during both the videos,however, it might look like the spark plug isn't installed because my bike has different plug caps which are much smaller than the stock cap.The reason I posted a video each for electric start and kick start is because my cellphone is unable to pick up the clunking sound over the sound of the starter motor

Originally Posted by navin_v8

What worries me is the metallic sound that was coming when you tried kick starting the bike in the second video. I couldn't hear the same metallic rattling sound in the first video.

The clunking sound is audible while kick starting as well as self starting,but it is not audible in the video over the sound of the starter motor.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

To me it looks like a clogged fuel injector issue. A similar episode happened with a rider friend who owns a DS 500. Once his fuel injector was cleaned the bike was back to normal.

That could be a reason,but the engine was running before with the questionable condition of the injector,but now it refuses to start at all and makes that odd clunking noise.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

That could be a reason,but the engine was running before with the questionable condition of the injector,but now it refuses to start at all and makes that odd clunking noise.

Mate I think it has to do something with the fuel injector as you mentioned that the motorcycle used to sputter earlier while it was running. Get the fuel injectors cleaned. Apart from this the metallic clunking sound from the engine looks like a sprag clutch bearing issue to me.

[farhadtarapore]

Any recommendation or link where I can buy a fuel injector cleaner additive online? I was able to find this: http://www.vicky.in/shopping/stp-car...jector-cleaner but not sure how reliable this is. Tried the petrol pump also from where I usually tank up, but the chap looked at me as if I was speaking greek.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Any recommendation or link where I can buy a fuel injector cleaner additive online? I was able to find this: http://www.vicky.in/shopping/stp-car...jector-cleaner but not sure how reliable this is. Tried the petrol pump also from where I usually tank up, but the chap looked at me as if I was speaking greek.

Farhad mate the fuel injector cleaner is to be used at intervals defined by the manufacturer (although I haven't seen it in RE's owner's manual). I got my Tbird500 fuel injector cleaned after one year during the first paid service. There are numerous brands selling fuel injectors for petrol engines but they are mostly meant for cars, I am not sure if they can be used for motorcycles. If possible you can ask the RE service centre guys which fuel injector cleaner they are using. In case you intend to use it do read the instructions carefully (about quantity required to be poured in for Tbird500's 20 litre fuel tank) before you pour it into your fuel tank. Petrol pump is the last place from where I buy lubes and oils, it is better to buy it from motor oil shops storing them.

[Vikvkv]

I dont know if this is a right place to post. I own a tbts 350 2014 model. I had my first accident on it yesterday night at about 11pm. A bus and a car were in front of my bike and bus driver was frequently stopping in the middle of the road to drop passengers...and on the third such stop I was caught unaware and made an urgent attempt to stop my bike by applying the front brakes and my front tyre just lost its grip and it skidded and I lost my balance and fell. I was going at 30-40kmph. I suffered few bruises and scratches. Bike's guard was tilted and no major damage was done. I was wearing my helmet that saved my head. It was drizzling and the road was partially wet with some mud on it. My query is did my bike lose grip as I only applied the front brakes or the stock mrf tyres are the culprit. I have experienced this even on dry roads with some small pebbles and sand. Any suggestions are welcome...

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Vikvkv

I dont know if this is a right place to post. I own a tbts 350 2014 model. I had my first accident on it yesterday night at about 11pm. A bus and a car were in front of my bike and bus driver was frequently stopping in the middle of the road to drop passengers...and on the third such stop I was caught unaware and made an urgent attempt to stop my bike by applying the front brakes and my front tyre just lost its grip and it skidded and I lost my balance and fell. I was going at 30-40kmph. I suffered few bruises and scratches. Bike's guard was tilted and no major damage was done. I was wearing my helmet that saved my head. It was drizzling and the road was partially wet with some mud on it. My query is did my bike lose grip as I only applied the front brakes or the stock mrf tyres are the culprit. I have experienced this even on dry roads with some small pebbles and sand. Any suggestions are welcome...

Mate the all new Tbird is a nose heavy bike and sudden braking using only the front brake makes it pitch and nose dive that makes it loose traction and slip which results in a fall. I have experienced this phenomenon when there is water on road which results in slipping and falling while using only the front brake(panic braking). This is also true when riding on dry surface while using only the front brake. The absence of ABS too makes the tyre lock up and skid. This is the reason why I follow a braking ratio of 6(front):4(rear) on RE motorcycles, especially Tbird. Remember to always brake in unison with both front and rear brakes engaged for controlled braking during sudden panic situations. No wonder CBS(Combi Brake System) and ABS will be made compulsory in a few years from now.

Ride Safe.

[Vikvkv]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate the all new Tbird is a nose heavy bike and sudden braking using only the front brake makes it pitch and nose dive that makes it loose traction and slip which results in a fall. I have experienced this phenomenon when there is water on road which results in slipping and falling while using only the front brake(panic braking). This is also true when riding on dry surface while using only the front brake. The absence of ABS too makes the tyre lock up and skid. This is the reason why I follow a braking ratio of 6(front):4(rear) on RE motorcycles, especially Tbird. Remember to always brake in unison with both front and rear brakes engaged for controlled braking during sudden panic situations. No wonder CBS(Combi Brake System) and ABS will be made compulsory in a few years from now.

Ride Safe.

Thanks mate for your advice. I just cannot control myself from using the front brakes as I have switched to Thunderbird from a pulsar 180. The relaxed seating makes me always go for the front brakes. Do you think changing the handle bars will help me. The ergonomics isn't great on the Thunderbird isn't it? On the contrary the avengers seating is that of a proper cruiser.

[ArizonaJim]

Heavily using the front brake on a smooth, dry tarmac should cause no problem and it is the recommended method of braking.

That said, anyone riding a motorcycle must always keep an eye on the condition of the road surface.

If the surface is wet, oily, covered with fine sand or loose gravel the rider must shift their braking to the rear brake and become more cautious by reducing the speed and increasing the distance between themselves and anyone ahead of them.

I know this isn't easy and I, on several occasions have dropped my motorcycle by locking up the front brake.
When this happened, the road was wet.
In one case, the car in front of me didn't have brake lights so when he used his brakes the only indication was the rapidly shrinking distance between me and him.
In another case, the driver of the car pulled out of a filling station right in front of me.

This idea of shifting the braking from the front brake to the rear brake when road surfaces become untrustworthy is especially true with motorcycles that do not have ABS but even the riders who have ABS must follow the same riding rules if they don't want to crash.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Vikvkv

Thanks mate for your advice. I just cannot control myself from using the front brakes as I have switched to Thunderbird from a pulsar 180. The relaxed seating makes me always go for the front brakes. Do you think changing the handle bars will help me. The ergonomics isn't great on the Thunderbird isn't it? On the contrary the avengers seating is that of a proper cruiser.

Mate it is just a matter of habit and sending commands to your brain.

I ride RE models right from the 50's era to the current era. The old ones have right side gear and left side brake (both front and rear are drum brakes) whereas the new ones have left side gear and right side brake. I have conditioned my brain where it automatically switches when I ride either of these motorcycles. I will again reiterate that my riding style is where I have always used 6:4 braking ratio. In a country like India one never knows what may pop up on the road all of a sudden.

Mate the all new Tbird is one of the best RE's in terms of its sorted ergonomics. It is as much at home in the city as it is on the highways. I have seen some guys changing their Tbird handlebars to straight handlebars and off road type wide handlebars. You can explore that option, but before that do try to tilt the angle of your existing handlebar towards you and see if it makes any difference. Bajaj Avenger is a great bike and is more cruiser than the Tbird. We have a riding buddy who has an Avenger and another riding buddy who has a Tbird. The Tbird rider decided to switch rides with Avenger guy. After about half an hour the Tbird rider came back to his Tbird.

[Rugged]

My quest for getting a NOC from my RTO, HYD has gone kaput !
After making umpteen trips to RTO, local Police Station (roamed almost 200 km to & fro in Sun & Rain) i have decided to give up on the NOC thing.

The clerk at RTO said they would confiscate my original RC smart-card and would issue a paper- RC as i am traveling between states. Moreover, before i leave Mumbai, i need to obtain a fresh NOC from Mumbai, Borivali RTA, submit the relevant documents in HYD, followed by physical inspection and then apply for a new smart card.

After getting exhausted i did approach an agent (much against my will)
He suggested : "Why do take all this pain ? Its a private vehicle, go drive anywhere in India, make jugaad with cops, its India !! :-)

What i have right now is :
1) Local police clearance certificate,
2) Cyberabad Commisionerate certificate through Mee-Seva.
3) Other relevant docs in Original (DL, RC, Insurance, Pollution)

Guys can i survive in Mumbai for 6 months with these docs + Lil bit of dough - here & there ?

work location Goregaon east & Andheri east


Note from Mod: Post edited. Please make sure you follow point #2 in this thread.

[Full_Minchingu]

Originally Posted by Rugged

My quest for getting a NOC from my RTO, HYD has gone kaput !

Hi, May be referring or posting in below thread would get an answer to your queries.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...rocedures.html

Regards,
-Badri

[petrolhead_chn]

Looking out for some information/suggestion pertaining to STD350 UCE.

1. Has any RE owner out here used Wurth 15w50 on their bull with Wurth oil additive? Any idea on the quantity of additive needed?
2. The screws that hold the RE badge to fuel tank broke. I am unable to use new ones as the rest of the screw is stuck in the tank. Is drilling it out at a lathe a good idea?

Would like hear the suggestions from fellow BHP-ians.

[ArizonaJim]

Petrolhead_chn
I haven't used or even heard of Wurth engine oils but I live in the USA.

My basic logic tells me that there are many, many different oils available, most of them made for use in automobiles.

A air cooled motorcycle engine like the Royal Enfield has, has requirements not found in most auto's.
Among these is the use of the engine oil to lubricate the gears in the transmission. Also, the Royal Enfield UCE engine uses a "wet clutch" where the engine oil lubricates the clutch plates.
Motorcycles also run their engines at higher speeds than autos which tends to make their pistons and piston rings run at hotter temperatures.
Air cooled motorcycle engines also run hotter than liquid cooled engines and this places special needs for the engines oil.

The wet clutch in the RE is the reason RE says the oil should meet the requirements of JASO MA2 which assures the clutch will be able to transmit the engine power to the transmission without slipping.

I notice in information available on the web, Wurth T4 motorcycle oil in the 15w-50 weight does not meet JASO MA2. It also seems to be a regular oil, not a semi-synthetic or synthetic oil.

Royal Enfield recommends using a semi-synthetic oil in their motorcycles. Personally, I recommend a full synthetic oil.

As I mentioned, the air cooled Royal Enfield engine tends to run hotter than auto engines.

Common motor oil has many different kinds of "oil" in the oil and some of these can turn into hard carbon deposits at lower temperatures than other kinds.

The synthetic oils do not have these oils that form carbon at the lower temperatures so an engine using them does not develop carbon buildups in the areas where the oil is lubricating things.

IMO, the RE recommendation to use a semi-synthetic oil (which may or may not have these lower temperature oils in them) is due to the company not wanting to upset owners. The semi-synthetic oils cost much less which keeps owners happy.

The way I look at it, a motorcycle like the RE only uses about 2 liters of oil so the higher cost of a synthetic oil really isn't that much to pay in the long run.

Stick to a well known motorcycle specific oil that has a proven reputation and meets JASO MA requirements and your engine will be happy.

[varadnerurkar]

I own a classic 500 for almost 2 years now. I had some issues with the battery but now they seemed to have solved the problems. But recently I have noticed rust in some parts underneath the bike. Can anyone help me with this? Is there anything that can be done to prevent the rust by any sort of coating, etc? Also what is an average life of a battery for a classic 500? Thank you