[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

Today I inspected my bike closely and noticed a small amount of rusting on the silencer and the crash guard. So I think it would be a good decision to coat the chrome parts with the anti rust solution. BTW, is there any specific brand of antirust solution which is to be used?

Mate there is no specific brand of antirust coating solution. It comes in small glass or plastic bottles of about 100-150 ml. The colour of the solution is usually dark brown or yellowish golden. Applying it is very simple and if you are a DIY guy then you can do it on your own.

[farhadtarapore]

Is there any permanent solution for rusting? My kick lever has also started rusting along with the joints/welds near the exhaust/bend pipe.
Would it help to buy a can of chrome spray paint and re-paint those rusted spots? Or get rid of the chrome altogether and get it powder-coated black?

[The Great]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Is there any permanent solution for rusting? My kick lever has also started rusting along with the joints/welds near the exhaust/bend pipe.
Would it help to buy a can of chrome spray paint and re-paint those rusted spots? Or get rid of the chrome altogether and get it powder-coated black?

Unfortunately no. Even the powder coating will eventually chip out. This is one area where RE sucks. Even with so much sales and advancements the rusting issue is not yet sorted out.

My bike has started showing rust in the first rains itself. And I have hated applying those dark coloured anti rust solutions.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by The Great

Unfortunately no. Even the powder coating will eventually chip out. This is one area where RE sucks. Even with so much sales and advancements the rusting issue is not yet sorted out.

My bike has started showing rust in the first rains itself. And I have hated applying those dark coloured anti rust solutions.

Exactly. And I don't want to cover the bike because that actually traps the moisture further and provides a comfortable shelter for rats to chew on the wires.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Your cold engine running issue may be due to the condition of the spark plug(s). If it/they haven't been changed for new ones recently, it would be a good idea to change it/them.

Another thing that can improve the issue is to slightly increase the idle speed.
This is adjusted by turning the big brass screw that is located in the top of the throttle body as is shown in the picture below.

So,finally today I decided to "fix" my bike.
First,I decided to check whether my air filter was choked,upon visual inspection the filter seemed fine and to confirm that I started the (already warm)engine without the air filter and it still struggled to maintain idle and would stall seconds after I let go of the bi-starter(and it wouldn't start at all without the bi-starter).

So,after confirming that the air filter was not the cause,I unscrewed the air bypass screw about 1/8 of a turn,but then the bike just flat out refused to start after that.I panicked and hastily tried some more adjustment (screwing/unscrewing 1/8 turn at a time) to atleast get it to start and in the process lost the factory settings
What do I do now?
Also,when I had opened the inner plastic air filter cover,it had a black oily coating (it was like a mixture of oil and fine particles)on the inside,is that normal?
I also noticed that there were two breather openings,the crank case breathe pipe was severed,possibly due to rubbing against the chain,so dust and debris could easily bypass the filter and go to the throttle body,could that have caused any problems?

Thanks,
Abhishek

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

So,finally today I decided to "fix" my bike.
First,I decided to check whether my air filter was choked,upon visual inspection the filter seemed fine and to confirm that I started the (already warm)engine without the air filter and it still struggled to maintain idle and would stall seconds after I let go of the bi-starter(and it wouldn't start at all without the bi-starter).

So,after confirming that the air filter was not the cause,I unscrewed the air bypass screw about 1/8 of a turn,but then the bike just flat out refused to start after that.I panicked and hastily tried some more adjustment (screwing/unscrewing 1/8 turn at a time) to at least get it to start and in the process lost the factory settings
What do I do now?
Also,when I had opened the inner plastic air filter cover,it had a black oily coating (it was like a mixture of oil and fine particles)on the inside,is that normal?
I also noticed that there were two breather openings,the crank case breathe pipe was severed,possibly due to rubbing against the chain,so dust and debris could easily bypass the filter and go to the throttle body,could that have caused any problems?

Thanks,
Abhishek

Checking the air filter was a good thing to do.
The oily coating on the inside of the air filter box is from "blow by" gasses which can carry oil mist from the crankcase/transmission thru the breather.
Although there usually isn't enough mist to dampen the inside of the air filter box, a little bit is not unusual.
Another thing that can cause an excess of oil mist to pass thru the breather is if the oil level is too high.
If the oil level completely covers the sight window there is too much oil in the engine.

If the breather tube is cracked or broken it should be replaced as soon as possible.
The engine breaths in thru that tube as well as breaths out. While it is breathing in, it needs fresh filtered air and if there is a break in the tube it could suck some dirty air into the crankcase/transmission.

You didn't mention changing the spark plug for a new one.
A fouled or defective spark plug will cause the starting and idling problem you originally mentioned.

I've had some bad experiences with Bosch plugs and prefer the NKG brand but that's only me. Others have had good results with Bosch plugs.

In any case, the spark plug and the spark plug wire being loose would be the first place I would look to fix the starting problem.
The plug must not have carbon on its center electrode and the wire must be firmly connected to the ignition coil and the spark plug cap. (The connection where the wire screws into the metal/rubber cap has been a source of trouble on several RE's.)

As for adjusting the big brass idle speed screw: This should be done while the engine is running and after the engine has thoroughly warmed up.

Adjusting it while the engine is off is just guessing what the adjustment is doing.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

You didn't mention changing the spark plug for a new one.
A fouled or defective spark plug will cause the starting and idling problem you originally mentioned.

I got the bike going yesterday,couldn't get the time to update.

I called my mechanic to my place to get the bike going.The first thing he did was pulling out the spark plugs and sure enough,they were REALLY sooty.They were barely able to produce a spark.
He cleaned the plugs but the bike was still running rough and the exhaust was black and sooty like that of an old diesel engine.According to him there were carbon deposits inside the engine and he needed to open it and clean it out.I was a bit apprehensive about it but gave him the bike to do the cleaning.The bike felt fantastic after the cleaning,started right up and ran real smooth.
Now,if I am not wrong,sooty spark plugs are a sign of over rich air/fuel mixture,right?
Shouldn't the EFI adjust the mixture if it is too rich/lean?
How do I prevent this from happening again?

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

As for adjusting the big brass idle speed screw: This should be done while the engine is running and after the engine has thoroughly warmed up.

Adjusting it while the engine is off is just guessing what the adjustment is doing.

I tried to do it while the engine was running,but off late the problem had gotten much worse and the engine would struggle to hold idle even when hot.

Once again thank you so much for all your help!

Abhishek

[ArizonaJim]

A sooty spark plug can be caused by several things.

A overly rich air/fuel ratio is the most common cause and this can be caused by a restricted air filter, short, low speed rides or incorrect jet sizes or needle adjustment in a carburetor style motorcycle. Also, incorrect sensor readings or settings, excessive fuel pressure, dirty fuel injector or problems with the ECU on fuel injected engines.
Another common cause is having the incorrect heat range spark plug installed.

As your motorcycle is fuel injected, we can eliminate the carburetor jet sizes and needle adjustment but the other things I mentioned still apply.

Sensors that can cause a overly rich condition are the Oil Temperature sensor, the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor.

Although there are tests and adjustments that can be done the first thing I would do is to address the possibility of a dirty fuel injector.

If the tiny orifices in the fuel injector become dirty due to the quality of the fuel you've been using, it will spray large drops of fuel rather than the fine mist that it should. These large drops don't atomize easily so they burn poorly leaving carbon behind.

Buy a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner. Read the instructions noting the size of the bottle is intended to be used on automobiles usually with 40 or larger fuel tanks. Ratio that amount by the amount of fuel your tank holds and use that to figure out how much of the cleaner your motorcycle tank needs. (Often, one small bottle of cleaner will be enough for 3 cleanings.)
After adding the cleaner, ride as usual keeping engine speeds up so it burns a bit more fuel and runs a bit hotter than it normally would.

If this doesn't reduce the spark plug fouling, your next, easy step is to buy new spark plugs with a "hotter" temperature range and install them.

I don't know what the second spark plug in your engine is (the US import does not have twin plugs) but most of us in the US normally use a NGK # BPR6ES.
The number 6 in this case represents the heat range.
This is a direct replacement for the Bosch plug supplied by RE.

If I wanted a "hotter" plug, I would use a NGK BPR5ES. The lower number 5 in NGK plugs represents one step hotter than a a 6.
NGK high numbers are cold, low numbers are hot.

Bosch on the other hand uses the opposite numbering system with its low numbers being cold and high numbers are hot.
If your engine is using a Bosch plug with the number 7, a hotter plug would be a number 8.

The "hotter" spark plug will burn off the carbon that can form on the center insulator and cause the plug to fail to spark.

Don't over do this heat range change. Going to a spark plug that is too hot can cause pre-ignition problems.

The bottom line? Clean your fuel injector and replace the existing spark plugs with a hotter heat range.

[Full_Minchingu]

"Query regarding digital console display for RE Classic models"

Hi All,

I am not sure whether this topic was previously discussed or not, but recently I came across an online store which sells digital speedometer for RE classic models, I did search few FB posts (of Aug 2015) by them and found that they had not explored this product on the side of tacho meter funcationality. No latest news from them as well.

So, here are my couple of doubts:

1. I am wondering if any T-BHPians have tried or explored on this kind of product? Only thing I am missing on my RE console is a trip meter, I am not much interested in having a tacho or any wacky sensors.

2. Will this hamper any existing wiring systems in the bike and will further create a hit on the battery or electrical's?

BTW I have a RE desert storm, Nov 2015 model which has clocked ~6000kms.

Thanks and Regards,
-Badri

URL link and image below:

Acewell Digital Speedometer for Bullet Tiger Head

[farhadtarapore]

Hi, is there a maintenance-free, sealed battery available for Thunderbird 500? The guy at the battery shop says this (dead battery) is a common problem with TB500 if not used even for a week.
I've given the battery for charging today. Let's see what happens after that.
Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also an issue and such problems don't occur with the older carbureted ones. How true is that?

[The Great]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi, is there a maintenance-free, sealed battery available for Thunderbird 500? The guy at the battery shop says this (dead battery) is a common problem with TB500 if not used even for a week.
I've given the battery for charging today. Let's see what happens after that.

Battery problems are there in both carb and efi versions equally.

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also an issue and such problems don't occur with the older carbureted ones. How true is that?

And similarly the problems associated with carburetor don't occur with EFI ones.

If there was an issue with EFI the company would have withdrawn it by now, but that hasn't happened. All the problems associated with the EFI can be solved or avoided.

Its just that you have to take a bit of care, like not driving the bike with low fuel (to avoid damage to the fuel pump) and using injector cleaners from time to time (to avoid dirt accumulation).

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi, is there a maintenance-free, sealed battery available for Thunderbird 500? The guy at the battery shop says this (dead battery) is a common problem with TB500 if not used even for a week.
I've given the battery for charging today. Let's see what happens after that.
Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also an issue and such problems don't occur with the older carbureted ones. How true is that?

There is an Amaron maintenance free battery available. I believe it's being used in the newer Classic/TB 350 models. not sure about 500 though, you can check at the dealership the make and model of these batteries.

Regarding battery life, I have a Classic 500 with EFi and my battery lasted me a little longer than 3 years. Many times I have come back home from 2-3 weeks of vacations and the bike used to start very easily. Only thing you have to keep in mind is that to keep the rpms while driving above the idle rpm, i.e. don't lug the bike while driving or drive in higher gear than necessary. REs (EFi or carb) rarely charge the battery at the idle rpm.

[farhadtarapore]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Many times I have come back home from 2-3 weeks of vacations and the bike used to start very easily. Only thing you have to keep in mind is that to keep the rpms while driving above the idle rpm, i.e. don't lug the bike while driving or drive in higher gear than necessary. REs (EFi or carb) rarely charge the battery at the idle rpm.

I do about 25kms daily and the rpms are almost always above idle for most part. Still this problem has occurred.

Tell me, did you have to top-up your battery from time to time?

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Tell me, did you have to top-up your battery from time to time?

Yes, every service the level was checked. And if necessary, it was topped up.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi, is there a maintenance-free, sealed battery available for Thunderbird 500?

Mate there are MF sealed batteries but very limited choice in 14 Ah battery which the Tbird500 uses. The stock Exide Lead Acid 12V 14 Ah is the only option as far as a familiar brand goes. Amaron has a MF Sealed 12V 9 Ah battery which I use on one of my Standard CI 350 and it is awesome. I am not sure if this can be fitted to Tbird500 but from what I have heard from my mechanic is that it has better cranking power than the stock 12V 9 Ah Exide Lead Acid battery. I haven't tried it so far on my Tbird500 but would do so once the stock battery conks off.
[quote]
The guy at the battery shop says this (dead battery) is a common problem with TB500 if not used even for a week.[\quote]
Ditch that battery shop as he is pulling a fast one on you. I also own a Tbird500 and keep it standing for more than a week, still it starts using electric start. Best example is J.Ravi sir who's Tbird500 also goes in hibernation and it starts without complaint.

I've given the battery for charging today. Let's see what happens after that.

That's the best you can do to service and increase the life of the battery. I too charge the battery to keep it in top shape. Try to clean the battery terminals as well while you are at it.

Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also an issue and such problems don't occur with the older carbureted ones. How true is that?

Mate most mechanics do not know how to work with EFi hence they shy away from working on EFi models and also encourage the owners to switch to carb. Troubleshooting an EFi requires a computer(recommended by RE ASS) to understand the error codes it is throwing and rectifying it. Most mechs and independent garages don't have those hence they prefer carb which can be fixed in a jiffy. But that doesn't mean the EFi is troublesome in fact it is more reliable and precise than a carb.