[gearbox]

Originally Posted by parik_ind

Hi Guys, It's been about six months since I bought my TB500 and in all that time I have hardly ever used the kick starter. However, for the last couple of weeks I have been trying to kick it but it seldom fires. I probably have been successful only about 20% of the time. So what I want to know is if there is a problem with the mechanism or is it just a matter of needing to kick the bike more often?

Parik

The bike generally would need more than a kick during cold starts, howveer I've seen this happen more where I had to kick a lot to get it started when the fuel/air mix was rich. Post the mix adjustment it worked well and I can easily start with a kick or two now.

Also to remember, the kick only completes one cycle, unlike other bikes where it does more than once and hence those bikes start with one kick. Depress the clutch and then kick once (gently) all the way down and the next kick should be without the clutch depressed. Thank bike should start. You may also want to check the spark plugs, mine died at 3.2K kms. The left one, I got a new set and replaced both.

Hope this helps!!

[AbelAFC]

I've started to face a horrible problem on my 2014 C350 - whenever the bike is idling, it idles for maybe 2-3 seconds, and then dies, more often than not with a horrible screeching sound, like metal scraping against metal.

I figured the idling was too low, and adjusted it accordingly, but it hasn't helped much. This happens any time the bike is at idle revs, or even if i pull the clutch in and there's no throttle input.

i would really appreciate some help on this, since I wanna have some clue of what the problem is before I approach a mechanic, and I'm never going back to the horrid 'authorised' SVCs.

[gearbox]

Originally Posted by AbelAFC

I've started to face a horrible problem on my 2014 C350 - whenever the bike is idling, it idles for maybe 2-3 seconds, and then dies, more often than not with a horrible screeching sound, like metal scraping against metal.

I figured the idling was too low, and adjusted it accordingly, but it hasn't helped much. This happens any time the bike is at idle revs, or even if i pull the clutch in and there's no throttle input.

i would really appreciate some help on this, since I wanna have some clue of what the problem is before I approach a mechanic, and I'm never going back to the horrid 'authorised' SVCs.

I'd do the following before going to a mechanic.


1) Check engine oil levels.
2) Adjust clutch
3) Check spark plugs
4) Turn off petrol, disconnect the fuel pipe from tank to carb, drain any petrol in the carb by (loosening/removing) the lowermost screw (when facing the bike from the left side) on the carb.
5) Check/clean Air filter.
6) check Chain tension.

Any of the above mentioned could cause your issue.

[AbelAFC]

Originally Posted by gearbox

I'd do the following before going to a mechanic.

Alright, thanks a ton! I'll do what you said.

[parik_ind]

Originally Posted by gearbox

The bike generally would need more than a kick during cold starts, howveer I've seen this happen more where I had to kick a lot to get it started when the fuel/air mix was rich. Post the mix adjustment it worked well and I can easily start with a kick or two now.

Thanks gearbox. Considering the bike is FI, would I not need to change the fuel/ air ratio through the ECU?

Will try depressing the clutch once before kicking it. Will also get spark plugs checked.

I have no issues starting it via the ES. In fact it starts the first time the button is pressed.

Parik

[Karadi]

Guys,
I am seeking information as to a reliable workshop at east Bangalore apart from the ASS, for a 2006 Electra 4S (Electric Start). I remember coming across a thread which stated that there was a graduate engineer who was running a workshop in the vicinity of Hebbal area, any leads ?
This bike has had frequent problems with the sprag clutch on the starter side and has been replaced a couple of times even though the standard procedure for shut down that was followed was by decompressor operation only.
Right now there is a fairly large knock in the engine and I suspect that it is to be opened up for Connecting rod big end replacement along with possibly the main bearings, piston / bore clearance to be checked out along with replacement of rocker boxes and rockers. There used to be a brand 'Samrat' rocker boxes in non ferrous material, and they were relatively silent, I wonder if they are still available. A quick response would be appreciated, Thanks.

[gearbox]

Originally Posted by parik_ind

Thanks gearbox. Considering the bike is FI, would I not need to change the fuel/ air ratio through the ECU?

Will try depressing the clutch once before kicking it. Will also get spark plugs checked.

I have no issues starting it via the ES. In fact it starts the first time the button is pressed.

Parik

Hi Parik,

Apologies, I missed the 500 part and that it is EFI

Would suggest checking the spark plugs though, just to be sure. Also the air filter maybe, if clogged can easily lead to the issue you are seeing.

Would also recommend adjusting the RPM, sorry, have never worked on an EFI before, so cannot tell how this is done, maybe need to get the ECU to adjust that? and also probably if you have to get the ECU settings inspected, you may want to check the AFR settings too.

A clogged air filter would let less air flow in, and the ECU may mix it as normal, meaning a rich mix, so worth getting it checked.

Also the clutch at times may lead to this issue, let me tell you how, if the clutch stays even slightly engaged (not enough to move the vehicle though) when the lever is released, this can lead to not completing the cycle as easily as it should (1 cycle per kick in a RE) unlike other bikes with lighter cranks.

Oh and the battery levels as well.

Hope this helps!!

[gearbox]

The stock battery on my Electra 350 UCE ES is dying, Need to get it replaced, I got the Electra in Oct 2013.

After looking at the manual I see it needs a 12v 14Ah battery? Please correct me if this is wrong, more than anything, I would go with the same spec battery that is installed at this point, however I am wondering which brand to go for?

If anyone has had experience with a certain make/model please share, would appreciate the inputs please.

[KkVaidya]

On my ride this Saturday, I noticed that the steering has to be kept 10cms to the right when going straight. I don't know since when but I noticed it just now. Is this a problem with the wheel alignment or Handlebar adjustment?

[Abhishek3001]

Hello everyone,
Recently I have noticed that my bike,'15 Classic 500,takes slightly longer to start.Once started it stalls unless I hold the bi-starter or a little bit of throttle but after riding around for a while it idles fine without any throttle input.All this only happens for the first 10-15 minutes of riding.
Sometimes it seems to miss a beat when I open the throttle after coasting for a bit.
What could be the issue here?
My mechanic says that it needs a little bit of tuning,but as far as I know efi engines do not need tuning.
One more question,the domestic 500's do not have an O2 sensor,right?Then how does the ecu know whether the air-fuel mixture is too rich,lean or perfect?

Thanks,
Abhishek

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Hello everyone,
Recently I have noticed that my bike,'15 Classic 500,takes slightly longer to start.Once started it stalls unless I hold the bi-starter or a little bit of throttle but after riding around for a while it idles fine without any throttle input.All this only happens for the first 10-15 minutes of riding.
Sometimes it seems to miss a beat when I open the throttle after coasting for a bit.
What could be the issue here?
My mechanic says that it needs a little bit of tuning,but as far as I know efi engines do not need tuning.
One more question,the domestic 500's do not have an O2 sensor,right?Then how does the ecu know whether the air-fuel mixture is too rich,lean or perfect?

Thanks,
Abhishek

Your cold engine running issue may be due to the condition of the spark plug(s). If it/they haven't been changed for new ones recently, it would be a good idea to change it/them.

Another thing that can improve the issue is to slightly increase the idle speed.
This is adjusted by turning the big brass screw that is located in the top of the throttle body as is shown in the picture below.

This screw has a large straight slot for a large straight blade screw driver.
It is an air bypass screw so unscrewing it about 1/8 of a turn will allow more air into the engine.
If the amount of adjustment is kept to a minimum, you won't notice much difference in the idle speed but it may be enough to solve the problem.

Beyond adjusting the idle adjustment, another sensor is adjustable. This is the throttle position sensor.
Unless the mechanic really knows what he's doing, I suggest that this sensor should be left alone. (It is on the left hand side (aft looking forward) of the throttle body in line with the throttle plate shaft).

The engine determines the correct air/fuel ratio and spark timing by measuring the throttle position, the air pressure in the inlet duct, the oil temperature and the engine speed.
Feeding this information to the computer, the computer then uses its programmed map to determine the amount of fuel to inject.

Although the presence of an O2 sensor can allow the computer to make the fine adjustments needed to meet the stringent air pollution requirements in Europe and the US, it really does not greatly improve the way the engine runs. The O2 sensor won't improve fuel economy or power so you really aren't missing out on much by not having one.

[escape velocity]

Hi,

I want to know if it is possible to install a new oil filter in Classic 350 without draining the engine oil ?

What's happened is during routine servicing, after changing the oil, the mechanic did not change the oil filter as he did not have one. However, he assured that its not absolutely necessary as I had changed it during previous service which was about 2,500 kms ago, and it should do fine for another 2,500 kms.

What to do now? replace the filter or let it be.

[ArizonaJim]

Assuming your Classic 350 is one of the new UCE (Unit Construction Engine) powered motorcycles, you can leave things alone.

According to my Owners Manual the oil and filter change intervals are, 0.5 km (first oil change), 6000 km (2nd oil change) and every 6000 km distance covered after that.

These distances for the changes require that a good semi-synthetic oil is being used.
If a full synthetic oil was used, that is even better but I don't recommend extending the change distance from the factory suggested values.

My Royal Enfield is 5 years old so the change requirement interval given in the OM may have been changed in the newer motorcycles so I will suggest that you check your manual to see what it requires. The information will be in the Periodical Maintenance section.

As a side note, I change the oil every 3000 km and the filter every 6000 km in my 500cc fuel injected Royal Enfield.

I guess that doesn't answer part of your question so, yes, you can change the oil filter at any time, for any reason.
If you do change it when your not changing the engine oil, after the new filter is installed the engine will need to be started while the motorcycle is on the center stand.
After running it a minute or so, shut it off and give the bike a few minutes to allow the oil to drain out of the areas in the rocker arms and valves.
Then, check the oil level. About 100 cc of oil may need to be added to replace the oil that was lost when the filter cover was removed.

[dkaile]

@ArizonaJim - How do we adjust the carburetor of the new Himalayan for higher altitudes i.e. make it run leaner. I see a idle adjuster and a air mixture screw on the Himalayan carburetor.

[surjaonwheelz]

I've changed the swing arm bush of my 2 year old CL350 which has clocked 21k kms. But after the change I'm experiencing squeaking sound from it... When the bike is on its wheels and u press the rear down, I can reproduce the sound.

This is very irritating! The new plastic bushes are rubbing against the metal and producing the sound.

How can I lubricate this part? Should I use WD-40 or chain lube?

TIA