[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by tharian

There were multiple breather pipes on the later 3 box Enfields. There was one even from the timing chest and from the valve cover as well

There is/ were never multiple breather pipes. Attaching a photo of my 200 Model AVL machismo, in which breather pipe is from top of rocker cover to breather box (oil catch cane) and there is no breather pipe from crank case.

In older model there was a cap type dip stick with a small pin type hole to provide breathe to crank case. When threaded dip stick introduced, there was a separate breather pipe (crank case to breather box).

Originally Posted by tharian

but I don't remember one from the clutch case.

There was/ is never any pipe from clutch case, neither in 3 box nor 2 box (UCE) Res.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate here are a couple of pics of my Tbird AVL 350 2004 CDI model. I believe the breather pipe is the one circled in red and the bottom blue circled one is the oil breather pipe that goes to the drive chain.

The pipe you mentioning in red is carburetor overflow pipe (not the breather pipe). There is a screw just above the pipe joints at carb which needs to be loosen and drain petrol form float chamber in case of overflow. You one is a BS26 carburetor so it haves this pipe, there is no such pipe in Mikuni VM24/28 and Speco PHBM 28.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate here are a couple of pics of my Tbird AVL 350 2004 CDI model. I believe the breather pipe is the one circled in red and the bottom blue circled one is the oil breather pipe that goes to the drive chain.

This is the thing which is called the breather pipe and officially it never goes to drive chain, it supposed to be connected to breather box.


Ok. The mystery of Dr’s TB still exists and my following queries are add on.
1. How clutch case breaths, both in 3 box and 2 box (UCE)?
2. How Gear Box breaths? In 3 box Res
3. Do the timing system needs a separate breath then crank case? If Yes how?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate if you are saying the spark plugs will stop due to oil residue leaking into cylinder wall and making it to the spark plug then it wont stop sparking all of a sudden. The engine will misfire giving out symptoms of a sparkplug fouled with oil residue.

In that case, the OP should have experienced that, which he hasn't mentioned in his brief, which is what made me ask you in the first place the symptoms.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

I believe the pics of my Tbird AVL 2004 model that I have attached with the red circled pipe is the one that Dr_MNC_SK is referring to.

The blue one is my guess.

Originally Posted by (Alok)

There is/ were never multiple breather pipes. Attaching a photo of my 200 Model AVL machismo, in which breather pipe is from top of rocker cover to breather box (oil catch cane) and there is no breather pipe from crank case.

There was actually.
The one with the breather from the rocker cover is on the initial lot of AVL's, but there were later CI's (and AVL's?) that had a breather from behind the timing chest as well along with the one mentioned in Navin's posted picture.

Originally Posted by (Alok)

In older model there was a cap type dip stick with a small pin type hole to provide breathe to crank case. When threaded dip stick introduced, there was a separate breather pipe (crank case to breather box).

Breather pipes always existed on Enfields, regardless of cap type.

Originally Posted by (Alok)

There was/ is never any pipe from clutch case, neither in 3 box nor 2 box (UCE) Res.

As I had mentioned too.

Originally Posted by (Alok)

The mystery of Dr’s TB still exists

Yes, and I would love to know the cause since its quite intriguing.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by (Alok)

The pipe you mentioning in red is carburetor overflow pipe (not the breather pipe). There is a screw just above the pipe joints at carb which needs to be loosen and drain petrol form float chamber in case of overflow. You one is a BS26 carburetor so it haves this pipe, there is no such pipe in Mikuni VM24/28 and Speco PHBM 28.

Yes you are right I got it confused with the PAV hose then realized my AVL Tbird does not come with a PAV system.

This is the thing which is called the breather pipe and officially it never goes to drive chain, it supposed to be connected to breather box.

Yep in the older CI's the duck billed oil breather pipe was routed just above the chain to vent the hot oil vapour onto the drive chain to keep it lubricated. Once the emissions started kicking in the very same pipe was routed to the breather box which itself comes with a couple of pipes one which is called long and other which is short. These are meant for taking in the condensate water that settles down in the breather box and the other pipe takes back the oil to timing case. The gas vapour is then routed to the air filter. This is what my understanding is.

1. How clutch case breaths, both in 3 box and 2 box (UCE)?
2. How Gear Box breaths? In 3 box Res
3. Do the timing system needs a separate breath then crank case? If Yes how?

To answer your questions, let me explain: In a 3 box system due to higher engine crankcase pressure there is a separate breather box which is provided to collect the breather oil from the oil breather pipe.

In a 2 box system the crankcase breather pressure is lower due to integration of the engine with the gearbox and clutch compartment. The engine breather system is located on the right side crankcase cover. A connecting hole directs the engine breathing into a chamber in the right side crankcase cover which has an inbuilt deflector to deflect the oil that may come along with the fumes from the crankcase. This oil is drained through a small hole provided at the bottom of the breather chamber. The oil fumes passes through the deflector chamber and goes to the air filter and passes through the inlet manifold back into the cylinder head.

[LazyGunner]

Hi! I wanted to know if I can find all the parts and fitting/replacement charges for classic 350 somewhere. During last free service of my classic 350, they changed rear brake bush and charged me around ₹250 for the part and ₹140 as labour charges taking the bill amount to ₹1600! I have a feeling it can't cost ₹140 to change brake bush. Where can I verify these costs?

Thanks!

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by LazyGunner

Hi! I wanted to know if I can find all the parts and fitting/replacement charges for classic 350 somewhere.

Mate I have noticed a big yellow board with black lettering detailing the parts cost and labour charges for the same in RE service centres. Usually it is kept at the entrance of the customer lounge. I didn't bother to click a picture of that board as my motorcycle was under free service then. Next time when you visit your service centre you can locate it.

[LazyGunner]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate I have noticed a big yellow board with black lettering detailing the parts cost and labour charges for the same in RE service centres. Usually it is kept at the entrance of the customer lounge. I didn't bother to click a picture of that board as my motorcycle was under free service then. Next time when you visit your service centre you can locate it.

I remember to have seen it too. But I think it doesn't cover all the parts. My vague memory of it says it was a small list

Any way, thanks bro. Next time when I go there, I'll click a pic

[gearbox]

Guys, need some help, does anyone know if the neutral light in the speedometer of an Electra 350 UCE can be replaced? if yes, any ideas if there's a drop in replacement for this available?

Mine is too weak and is difficult to see under sunlight, been wanting to replace it.

[LazyGunner]

After finishing all the 4 free services, I'm sure I'm not the only one feeling this. "I do not want to take my bullet back to RE authorized service center for my first paid service". On Saturday, I was passing by KR Road near Banashankari, Bengaluru. I saw the board "Om Shakthi Bullet Garage" and somehow the name was familiar. I thought may be I have read about it somewhere online, may be it is a good service center and stopped to talk to the guy.

While speaking, I casually asked - "So, how much do you charge for regular service?"
He said "1650"
Me: "Wow! including oil change right?"
Him: "No. This is just service charge. Oil, oil filter and any other part extra"
Me: "But RE takes only 500"
Him: "Did you ask what do all do they do for 500?"
Me: "I'm not interested in knowing what all do they do after those free services. I'm not happy there and hence searching for a new mechanic. Anyway, what all do you do for 1650?"
Him: "We remove both the wheels, check and adjust brakes, adjust the clutch play, check lubrication and so many other stuff."
Me: "Ok, that's regular servicing. Somehow, it still doesn't justify that number. So, without any part replacement, just regular servicing will reach 2.5 to 3k"
Him: "Yes, it does. Here is my card. Call me before you come."

Are local mechanics that expensive? I wonder how is it justified to charge so much! Anyway, I realized warranty is till 20k kms and I still have 9k to go which means I'm stuck with RE for 3 more services but I'm tempted to let go of my warranty given how RE mechanics behave. Also, before I ride one more thousand kms, I have to find a good mechanic. Any leads in that way much appreciated. Thanks!!

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by LazyGunner

After finishing all the 4 free services, I'm sure I'm not the only one feeling this. "I do not want to take my bullet back to RE authorized service center for my first paid service". I saw the board "Om Shakthi Bullet Garage" and somehow the name was familiar. I thought may be I have read about it somewhere online, may be it is a good service center and stopped to talk to the guy.

While speaking, I casually asked - "So, how much do you charge for regular service?"
He said "1650"
Me: "Wow! including oil change right?"
Him: "No. This is just service charge. Oil, oil filter and any other part extra"

Are local mechanics that expensive? I wonder how is it justified to charge so much! Anyway, I realized warranty is till 20k kms and I still have 9k to go.

Well it depends on which mechanic one goes to mate. Most of them know that RE motorcycles are exclusive and owners owning them must have deep pockets. This is a common perception which drives them to charge "extra premium" from RE customers. I am not from Bangalore but know that due to the "IT crowd" being prevalent there, most of the mechanics rip off gullible customers. My suggestion to you is to find another good RE authorised service centre by interacting with RE owners in your area. You can stick to the RE authorised service centre till your warranty is over and by the time also try and find some good mechanic in your area. Mate if you are a DIY guy then changing oil and oil filter is no big deal.

By the way the first paid service for my Tbird500 from RE Authorised Service Centre came up to a shade over 1200 bucks all inclusive parts and labour. Mine has 1 year or 10000 kms service warranty. Hope this helps.

[ArizonaJim]

LazyGunner:

Navin_V8 touched on it but I will elaborate a bit.

First let me say, the Royal Enfield UCE's require very little mantanence.
Changing the oil and oil filter, lubricating the rear chain (which should be done every 500km or sooner), changing the spark plug (which should not be required for at least 10,000 km) and checking for loose nuts/bolts is about all that is needed.

The front disk brake is self adjusting as is the rear if it is a disk brake. If the rear is a drum brake, adjusting it is a simple matter that requires about a minute of your time.

Adjusting the clutch takes all of 10 minutes and should not be needed for at least 2000 km.

Changing the oil and oil filter is not difficult if you have the right tools, a pan to drain the oil into and a little time.

The wheels, wheel bearings should never need inspection. The bearings are sealed and need no extra lubrication and should last for over 30000 km or more.

For less than the cost of one 1650 rupee service, you can buy all of the needed tools and have money left over. (Although the tools that come with the RE's can do the job you really should have better tools to make the job easier.)

If you are curious about the tools I would recommend, here is a short list:

Torque wrench, 3/8" drive, adjustable from 1 to at least 70 NM. (6NM for oil filter cap and pump inlet screen cover, 20 NM for main drain plug. 70 NM for main lower engine mount bolts).

A set of sockets for hexagon bolts from 8mm to 21mm.

A adjustable wrench (spanner) capable of opening to at least 25mm. (Another smaller one is often useful for smaller bolts and can eliminate the need for more than one open end spanner).

Quality straight and Phillips screw drivers

A set of open end and closed end wrenches (spanners) ranging from 8mm to 21mm.

A set of hexagon drive (Allen) wrenches (keys) ranging from 1.5 mm thru 8 mm.

A tool box to store the tools in.

A book which describes general motorcycle maintenance. If the only ones you find are for another brand of motorcycle it really doesn't matter. The basics you will need are the same for all motorcycles.)

If you have money left over you might consider buying a volt/ohm (multi-meter) meter which can help track down electrical problems ranging from finding out if a fuse or light bulb is burned out to checking the power in your battery.
These can cost as little as 60 rupee's but the higher priced ones have better quality.
I carry one that cost me $8 in my saddle bags "just in case" and in 5 years of riding my RE 500 I have never needed it but it is good to have it along for peace of mind.

There are several advantages in doing the work yourself.

• Your knowledge of mechanical things will increase.
• You will know the job was done right.
• You will learn how to fix things out on the road if you have a problem.
• Your future expenses will be limited to only paying for the parts/fluids/material needed for the job.
• You will find that you bond with your motorcycle in a way you never thought possible.

Give the idea some thought.

[LazyGunner]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Well it depends on which mechanic one goes to mate. Most of them know that RE motorcycles are exclusive and owners owning them must have deep pockets. This is a common perception which drives them to charge "extra premium" from RE customers. I am not from Bangalore but know that due to the "IT crowd" being prevalent there, most of the mechanics rip off gullible customers. My suggestion to you is to find another good RE authorised service centre by interacting with RE owners in your area. You can stick to the RE authorised service centre till your warranty is over and by the time also try and find some good mechanic in your area. Mate if you are a DIY guy then changing oil and oil filter is no big deal.

By the way the first paid service for my Tbird500 from RE Authorised Service Centre came up to a shade over 1200 bucks all inclusive parts and labour. Mine has 1 year or 10000 kms service warranty. Hope this helps.

I agree about charging extra premium part. IT brought a lot of disadvantages to Bengaluru while it brought good fortune to some of us.

Well, I'll take your advice and stick to authorized RE service center till I run through the warranty but may be, a different one this time while honing my DIY skills.

And my last FREE service was around 1600/- but more than the number on the bill, I have issues with RE mechanics' behavior. When they don't do what was requested, instead of doing it they argue that you never told them anything.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

LazyGunner:

Navin_V8 touched on it but I will elaborate a bit.

Thanks for such a detailed write-up! I have always wanted to try some DIY but somehow I'm scared about screwing up something. I have slowly started doing some of them.

-> I lubricate the chain every 500-600 kms once using Motul chain spray.

-> I make a point to adjust the rear brakes every Sunday evening when I wash my bullet (if I'm not wrong only Thunderbirds, CGT and Himalayan come with rear disk brakes here in India and I ride a Classic 350)

-> I know to adjust clutch but I'm not very confident. So, as of now I rely on mechanics.

-> And, I have tightened some screw/bolts which started making noises, in the past.

And there ends my DIY skills

I never dared to try and change the engine oil despite watching the video on YouTube many times. I thin I'm going to do it soon.

Thanks for that full list of tools, and I totally understand and relate to everything you say about DIY. It definitely brings the rider close to the machine itself.

[escape velocity]

While trying to avoid a dog a few days ago I fell off my motorcycle, a Classic 350, which bent the leguard at the point which you can see in the pic. The right footrest also got a bit twisted.

Should I replace both the leguard and footrest or have these hammered to straighten them. After the fall I suspect there durability. I don't think so these will be able to withstand another fall. Please suggest.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by escape velocity

Should I replace both the leguard and footrest or have these hammered to straighten them. After the fall I suspect there durability. I don't think so these will be able to withstand another fall. Please suggest.

Unless it is cracked or lost structural integrity, hammering it back into place should do the job. I had a similar experience with my Heritage once where the bike slipped and rested on the engine guard. A few scratches on the underside of the engine guard is all the evidence that remains with zero damage to the bike. And it is going strong without any hammering.

Cheers...

[parik_ind]

Hi Guys, It's been about six months since I bought my TB500 and in all that time I have hardly ever used the kick starter. However, for the last couple of weeks I have been trying to kick it but it seldom fires. I probably have been successful only about 20% of the time. So what I want to know is if there is a problem with the mechanism or is it just a matter of needing to kick the bike more often?

Parik

[escape velocity]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Unless it is cracked or lost structural integrity, hammering it back into place should do the job

It's not cracked but how to find out whether or not it has lost the structural integrity.