[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Especially Delhi workshops from what I have known.
So try with some local Bullet mechanics as they have contacts and network to find these parts. Disclaimer: These will be used parts and will need refurbishment.

Thank you for suggestion, I want original part. Though i can manage with some jugaad but i dont want to do it irrespective of time it would take to procure original parts.

Patience is key and i am in no hurry. This is what i learned after restoring half dozen bullets and half dozen czech, Jap and Indian oldies......

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

Thank you for suggestion, I want original part. Though i can manage with some jugaad but i dont want to do it irrespective of time it would take to procure original parts.

Patience is key and i am in no hurry. This is what i learned after restoring half dozen bullets and half dozen czech, Jap and Indian oldies......

Looks like we have something in common eh! It took me close to 2 and a half years to restore my 1969 B1 Standard Bullet 350. I was fortunate that the motorcycle had all the original parts and needed some tinkering to get it up and running. Like I said nobody makes the original parts for these models anymore except a few workshops here and there. In fact I myself asked my mechanic to refurbish the original parts as far as possible before buying new ones. Only thing I couldn't save was the timing gear case cover, it was beyond repair but we managed to salvage an original timing gear case from another junk motorcycle of the near same vintage. Good luck with your restoration and finding parts. I too am hunting for parts for my G2 project.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

a friend of mine is doing a full cosmetic restoration on his classic bullet (he has kept all the mechanical bits 100% flawless), but he got a quote for 2.2K for a set of decals for tank, toolbox etc.

is there an alternative/cheaper source for the stuff - Genuine stickers, not repro ones from the local guys

another question - is it possible to add gas suspension without increasing ride height ?
He's actually trying to reduce the height, but a better ride would be nice to have

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

another question - is it possible to add gas suspension without increasing ride height ?
He's actually trying to reduce the height, but a better ride would be nice to have

I don't know by how much mm does a gas filled rear suspension increase the height, but I am sure it will be marginal. The Gabriel oil filled ones are a tad better than Armstrong and Endurance oil filled ones from my experience. It is better to fit gas filled for comfort and it can also be adjusted if it comes with preload adjuster. Endurance is the OEM for rear suspension on RE motorcycles at present.

[starter]

Originally Posted by AbelAFC

Is Mr. Gurunandan still working on Enfields or has he shut up shop completely? If so, it is enough to give him a call before landing up at his doorstep?

Nandan has shut shop for more than a couple of years now.
Nandan's chief mechanic - Tiger is however working at Prince Motors.
Cheers,
Deepak

[KkVaidya]

Whenever I change the engine oil (18 months @ 800kms - yes that's how much it run in 18 months), the oil reeks of petrol. Could it be the fuel pump diaphragm gone bad which is mixing the oil and petrol? Or is it normal?
Mine is a Bullet Electra 2002 model with 35,000 kms on the odometer.

[ArizonaJim]

Riding an average of 44.4 km/month (27.5 miles/month) I suspect your rides are very short.
I'm also guessing the rides are at low speeds (less than 65 kmph).

There is always a small amount of fuel that doesn't burn and much of it ends up being blown past the piston rings into the crankcase. This is especially true when the engine is cold.

This unburned fuel ends up contaminating the engine oil.
Normally, if the motorcycle is ridden at higher speeds or for long distances heating the oil to temperatures in excess of 60° C (140°F), the fuel will evaporate and be blown out thru the crankcase vent.
Short rides which do not give the engine oil any time to warm up causes the unburned fuel to remain in the motor oil. That's why you smelled petrol when you drained the oil out of your engine.

Needless to say, petrol in the engine oil greatly reduces the oils ability to lubricate all of the engines moving parts. This can result in unexpected engine wear.

I should also mention that another product of combustion: Water.

Like the unburned fuel, the water produced by the burning petrol will find its way past the piston rings and end up in the oil.

Riding short distances at low speeds resulting in the oil never warming up allows the water in the oil to accumulate.

Running the engine at speeds and distances that allow the oil to heat up to 85°C (185°F) will cause the water (and petrol) to evaporate and be removed from the crankcase via the crankcase vent.

Water in the oil not only reduces its ability to lubricate but it can form acids that will attack the metal in the engine. Needless to say, we don't want that.

The moral of the story is, anyone who rides short distances at low speeds that do not heat up the engine oil should change their engines oil often. This will flush out the harmful fuels, water, carbon, dirt and metallic chips that have collected.

How often is often?
At least once a year. Twice a year is better. (Three times a year would be excessive and would rarely be needed).

Look at it this way.
Oil is relatively inexpensive. If changing the oil will prevent harm to the engines parts and prevent wear, it could be considered to be a very cheap insurance.

Ride safe.

[Vikvkv]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The photo below shows the clear vinyl tubing I used to replace the factory breather tube.

The tube is attached to the engine and a fitting on the air filter box.

Sir from where did you procure that custom made breather pipe (transparent vinyl type). I own Thunderbird 350 and its breather pipe develops cracks too often and I have already replaced it twice.

[farhadtarapore]

Hi
How do I remove the stains left by the chain lube on my wheel rims?

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi

How do I remove the stains left by the chain lube on my wheel rims?

Attachment 1485313

Try the chrome polish bottle. I used it and its effortless to clean even those hard stuck stains. Works like a charm. Just spray keep for a minute and rub it off. Got the bottle from hypercity.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Vikvkv

Sir from where did you procure that custom made breather pipe (transparent vinyl type). I own Thunderbird 350 and its breather pipe develops cracks too often and I have already replaced it twice.

First, understand that I live in the USA and things may be a bit different here.
Vinyl and rubber tubing is available at the local hardware store here. It is sold by the foot and buying 1-100 feet of it is only a matter of telling the store worker how much I want.

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi
How do I remove the stains left by the chain lube on my wheel rims?
Attachment 1485313

Personally, I wouldn't use a chrome cleaner although I am sure it will do the job.

Most chrome cleaners have hard abrasives in them and with the thin coating of chrome Royal Enfield seems to apply, I wouldn't want to use something that would remove any of it.

As for the oil spots, a rag dampened with coal oil, diesel fuel or petrol will cut right thru the oily spots.

If you feel more environmentally responsible, rather than using a petroleum product a few drops of of dish washing detergent in a small amount of water on a rag will remove the spots.
Or, rubbing the spots with a rag soaked with rubbing (or denatured) alcohol will dissolve them.

After all, these spots are not damaged chrome. They are only very thick grease.

[Vikvkv]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

First, understand that I live in the USA and things may be a bit different here.
Vinyl and rubber tubing is available at the local hardware store here. It is sold by the foot and buying 1-100 feet of it is only a matter of telling the store worker how much I want.

Sir thank you for the reply. Just for reference for the required width of the pipe will this work
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Vinyl-Tu.../dp/B000L8BHJE

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Vikvkv

Sir thank you for the reply. Just for reference for the required width of the pipe will this work
http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Vinyl-Tu.../dp/B000L8BHJE

That's the right stuff but assuming the vent outlet fitting on your UCE is the same size as mine, the answer to your question is NO.

The metal outlet size on the motorcycle is 12mm (.472 inches) (below the retaining bead) so if you are looking at tubing made in the inch sizes, you would want a 7/16" tube.

[Akhileshmdp]

Hello Everyone,

I own a TBTS 350(2011) model, drove it for 4.5 years(Jan'11-Dec'14) without much glitches with around 14K Kms on the odometer, had to keep the bike at home as was going for higher studies for a year and didn't want to take it to a hostel environment, that too in Mumbai (BIG MISTAKE). Result was that the bike was driven very less by my father, who occasionally kick-started it and for almost 3-4 months towards the end that was also not done. Result was that had to struggle for a couple of days with the local mechanic to get it running after change of battery, some electrical work and a lot many kicks.

Finally got it to Pune and gave for servicing at King Auto Riders, who found the carburetor was damaged and after paying Rs.2500 for carburetor change and overall Rs. 6000, received the bike back in much better condition but somehow riding was still not the same. On a friends advise took it to Bike Pluss in Baner, a trusted mechanic (my friend was getting his bikes serviced here for the past 10 years and he services Enfields as well). He told me that the clutch plates had become hard and needed to be changed which I got done (another Rs.2800). The bike felt much better now, obviously with the clutch change. Also had changed the replaced the stock silencer after 6000 Kms to a free flow short bottle without glasswool.

With a loud engine note on a UP registered bike, Pune police was not allowing me to live (with all papers correct and bike still in 1 year of allowance duration). Thankfully could get hold of stock silencer(last piece remaining) at a dealership and got it fitted. The bike was okk but the gear shifts and starting had something amiss. All this while after the Clutch change, bike was experiencing jerks specially in lower gears. Every time I would leave the accelerator bike experienced a sudden jerk and seemed to hold on to the throttle above 60 Kmph with engine getting a bit strained.

Took it back to Bike Pluss and after a days work and Rs.90 (the guy is really honest, kept for a full day and charged 90) he gave it back to me saying he had tuned it according to the new silencer and wont have the problems again. The bike is much better now, very close to the ride feel that it gave earlier but a couple of worries still, the jerks are still there at lower gear even without any clutch interference and the bike just refuses to Kick start at times. Also if I have done a lot of clutch driving in traffic sometimes it gives a bit of jerky response when I pull the throttle to a accelerate it (experienced it just once before after which I got it re-tuned, Rs 90 one) and this happens once in a blue moon.

Requesting Senior BHPians here to please advise if I need to do something else which might help to overcome these issues and also if it is normal to get the carburetor and clutch changed with around 15000 kms on the odometer. Am I doing something wrong in my riding or there is something else which needs attention.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Akhileshmdp

Finally got it to Pune and gave for servicing at King Auto Riders, who found the carburetor was damaged and after paying Rs.2500 for carburetor change and overall Rs. 6000, received the bike back in much better condition but somehow riding was still not the same.

Akhileshmdp mate as per my experience the carburettor does not give up so easily even when stored for longer periods. It can be easily repaired at a fraction of cost of a new one. Whenever any mechanic asks to replace such expensive parts it is always better to take a second opinion from some other known mechanic. Looking at your situation I am sure the carb was not a problem and was changed by the mech without any valid reason.

On a friends advise took it to Bike Pluss in Baner, a trusted mechanic. He told me that the clutch plates had become hard and needed to be changed which I got done (another Rs.2800).

Mate honestly a motorcycle standing continuously for 3 to 4 months will not result in damaged clutch plates as they too do not give up that easily. This cost could've been avoided by adjusting the clutch while draining the engine oil and filling fresh oil. I am speaking from my experience wherein even some of my motorcycles(all RE's) stand for longer periods, just an oil change and regular service and they are up and running.

The bike was okk but the gear shifts and starting had something amiss. All this while after the Clutch change, bike was experiencing jerks specially in lower gears. Every time I would leave the accelerator bike experienced a sudden jerk and seemed to hold on to the throttle above 60 Kmph with engine getting a bit strained.

These symptoms tell me that the clutch was not set up properly. The carb was either not tuned or your fuel tank must have accumulated gunk during those 3 to 4 months while standing. Cleaning the fuel tank and overhauling the old carb would've helped avoid this issue.

The bike is much better now, very close to the ride feel that it gave earlier but a couple of worries still, the jerks are still there at lower gear even without any clutch interference and the bike just refuses to Kick start at times.

Looks like a classic case of carb related issue along with sticky clutch plates. Mate did you do a complete service involving engine oil change before getting all these jobs done? If no then it is your mistake, if yes then both the mechanics have messed up both on parts as well as money. In my honest opinion there was no need to replace the carb and clutch as overhauling them followed by proper tuning and adjusting would've done the job. I am not so familiar with Bullet mechanics in Pune. Give a big shout to folks from Pune who can pitch in and help you find a reliable mechanic.