[TheRajput]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

The most likely cause of the fast blinking on the front turn signal is the rear bulb is either burned out or it is not making a good electrical connection with the contacts.

Thanks mate. I thought that the whole wiring had gone kaput. As the same thing happened with my activa & on checking it turned out to be a rat chewing the wires.
But is it advisable to get it checked by a FNG as going to the service centre would take an entire day.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?

Don't worry buddy, nothing serious it there.

What you are noticing is 'hyperflashing' in the indicator circuit. The system is indicating that one of the two bulbs have fused or some load on the circuit. Same situation arises when one tries to for LED's in the indicator system.

Check both the bulbs and change the fixed one. That'll some the issue.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

Thanks mate. I thought that the whole wiring had gone kaput. As the same thing happened with my activa & on checking it turned out to be a rat chewing the wires.
But is it advisable to get it checked by a FNG as going to the service centre would take an entire day.

The same thing happens in cars if some wires connecting the indicators are chewed by the vermin. There can also be an electrical connection problem as told by Jim. I would suggest you to take it to the RE service centre if your motorcycle is in warranty, as they would fix it for free if there is an electrical connection problem.

[TheRajput]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

Yesterday the rear LHS indicator on my two weeks old CL350 suddenly stopped working & the front LHS indicator is blinking at twice the normal rate. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?

Thanks everyone for the replies.
I opened the indicator housing & luckily it was just a fused bulb. Replaced the bulb & everything is working fine. Cost of the bulb was ₹5.

[farhadtarapore]

Hi
Just curious: what is the minimum distance to ride (at what RPM) to get the battery of a TB 500 fully charged?

I've noticed that once the bike warms up, thumbing the self-start brings it to life instantly, otherwise it takes about 2 tries. Same for the kick. Perhaps some issue due to cold weather or battery losing it's charge

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi
Just curious: what is the minimum distance to ride (at what RPM) to get the battery of a TB 500 fully charged?

Well to be honest it really depends on the condition of the battery and the charge it holds. Generally it takes about 7-10 kms or 20-25 mins. of riding to get the battery charged. It would get charged even faster if all the lights are off and the RPM is above 1500.

I've noticed that once the bike warms up, thumbing the self-start brings it to life instantly, otherwise it takes about 2 tries. Same for the kick. Perhaps some issue due to cold weather or battery losing it's charge

Mate the Tbird500 Exide battery is notorious when it comes to battery cranking power but 2 tries are normal and there's nothing to fear. It is always better to press and depress your clutch lever about 5-6 times before starting the bike. Due to cold weather the clutch plates stick together, it is good to free them up before thumb starting the bike. Also pull in the clutch lever fully when you thumb start the bike. Give a very mild throttle when you thumb start, this will start the motorcycle in the first crank itself. I have heard some very good reviews about Amaron 12V 9 amp VRLA battery that it has a very good cranking power on the Tbird's.

[.sourov]

I am waiting to take the delivery of my Classic 350 next week.

If anyone have the RE PDI checklist kindly share the link here as the one I have seems to have not been working.

Thanks in advance

[Full_Minchingu]

Originally Posted by .sourov

I am waiting to take the delivery of my Classic 350 next week.

If anyone have the RE PDI checklist kindly share the link here as the one I have seems to have not been working.

Thanks in advance

Hi .sourov,

There are bundle of information available in here for RE bikes, one which I refered to is this

Great write up by Samarth, he has covered everything in detail. That excel sheet is mother of all PDI's!!

Enjoy your ride and happy thumping!!

Regards,
-Badri

[StallionAmit]

Hi what is the best engine oil for RE classic 350cc, if i want to service myself.
Also what will be the fuel filter?
Any other things which i may need for self servicing?

[StallionAmit]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi what is the best engine oil for RE classic 350cc, if i want to service myself.
Also what will be the fuel filter?
Any other things which i may need for self servicing?

And one more question; What should be the ideal and normal service interval for Royal enfield classic 350 cc?

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi
1) what is the best engine oil for RE classic 350cc, if i want to service myself.
2) Also what will be the fuel filter?
3) Any other things which i may need for self servicing?
4) And one more question; What should be the ideal and normal service interval for Royal enfield classic 350 cc?

1) Any 15w50 engine oil that meet the recommended specs should be good.
2) Use the OEM fuel filter. You will get it at the authorized service station.
3) A small tub capable of holding about 2.5L of engine oil, and the correct tools to open and tighten the drain plugs.
4) Ideally oil change interval should be 5000-6000km, with a top-up (if required) at around 2500-3000km. If you check the manual, you'll find most of your doubts answered therein.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi what is the best engine oil for RE classic 350cc, if i want to service myself.
Also what will be the fuel filter?
Any other things which i may need for self servicing?

As maker_of_things said, your Owners Manual should give the recommended distances between oil and oil filter change.

IMO, unless you must buy petrol that has been contaminated with dust or dirt, your fuel filter should not need changing.

Assuming your motorcycle was made after 2009, your engine oil also lubricates the transmission so there is no need to worry about changing the transmission oil.

On the bottom of the 2009-2013? engine there are two things that need to be removed to drain the oil.
One of these is a large plug and the other is a small cover held in place with 2 small bolts.
The large plug is the main oil sump drain. The smaller cover encloses the oil pump inlet filter screen.

On the new UCE engines, an additional drain plug has been added to the bottom of the crankcase under the crankshaft. It also should be removed to fully drain the old oil.

Once the oil pump inlet screen cover has been removed, the screen can be pulled out for cleaning.
There are also permanent magnets on these drains to collect any steel/iron particles that may be in the oil. Be sure to wipe the small particles off of these magnets.

Be certain that both the face of the cover and its mating surface are absolutely clean before reassembling them. If this is done, there is no need to change the O-ring seal.

Be very careful when tightening the two small screws that hold the oil pump screen cover. These must not be overtightened or they will break.
They only need a torque of 5.42 NM (4 lb/ft) to be properly tightened.
Small bolts similar to these hold the oil filter cover in place and the torque for them is the same.
This low torque value can easily be reached or exceeded with a short spanner so don't over-do it.

The large hex drain plug washer and mating faces must also be totally clean before reassembly.
The torque value for this large drain plug is 20.35 NM (15 lb/ft).

IMO, the Owners Manual specifies too much oil for the UCE engines. Two liters should be about right.
If you are in doubt, measure the amount of oil that drained out of the engine and replace it with the same quantity.

[farhadtarapore]

Hi
Since the last couple of days, whenever I start by TB500 in the mornings (it starts up fine though), there is a tick tick sound after which the engine just dies. This happens about twice and then the bike runs normally. At first I thought the wire on the right-side of the front wheel is hitting the spokes, but why would the engine die due to that. What could possibly be the issue? This happens only after starting the bike after about 8 hours (cold start).

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi
Since the last couple of days, whenever I start by TB500 in the mornings (it starts up fine though), there is a tick tick sound after which the engine just dies. This happens about twice and then the bike runs normally.

farhad mate don't worry as the sound is perfectly normal while is happens during a cold start. That tick tick sound is of the auto decompressor valve and is nothing to worry about. It happens only during the cold start and disappears after the engine becomes warm. It is a trait of big single push rod engines having auto decompressors. What you can do is to give a very mild throttle and hold it there for about 5-8 seconds and the engine idling will become stable and not die.

Hope this helps.

[hothatchaway]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

farhad mate don't worry as the sound is perfectly normal while is happens during a cold start. That tick tick sound is of the auto decompressor valve and is nothing to worry about. It happens only during the cold start and disappears after the engine becomes warm. It is a trait of big single push rod engines having auto decompressors. What you can do is to give a very mild throttle and hold it there for about 5-8 seconds and the engine idling will become stable and not die..

Isn't the TB500 fuel injected? FI engines, which are run by an ECU, controls the idle RPMs after a cold start to ensure the engine reaches its optimum temperature at the earliest.

However not aware of the feature that you have described for TB engines.