[Dodge_Viper]

Any pointers on getting a bigger sized fuel tank for Classic 350? Say 22-25 litres? I had seen some online on royalenfieldzone.com, but not sure of the quality.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Any pointers on getting a bigger sized fuel tank for Classic 350? Say 22-25 litres? I had seen some online on royalenfieldzone.com, but not sure of the quality.

Mate you can get a custom built tank as per your liking or buy a readymade tank online. If I were you I would get it custom made as I would know the quality if sheet metal used and customize it as per my liking. I have an 18 litre fuel tank on one of my Standard 350 CI. It has undergone an epoxy coating once to prevent rusting from inside. Now you know when I say getting it custom made as per your liking and quality. I am going to retire it after a couple of years and build an aluminium fuel tank of the same dimensions as it would be lighter and not have rusting issues.

Also remember anything above 20 litres can affect the overall dynamics of the bike look wise, weight wise and handling wise. I have seen baffles inside a 30 litre fuel tank to prevent the motorcycle from swaying. It is my personal experience that a 18-20 litre tank is adequate as it does not affect the handling and aesthetics wise also looks good and proportional. Also one can get a tank range of more than 500 kms which I feel is enough as one can find a petrol bunk in that range.

[TheRajput]

Originally Posted by nik hill

Congrats on your new ride. Can you please share the price break up as i am also considering to buy one.

Thanks mate. Fortunately I got a December 2015 manufactured bike, so no issues of water damage. The whole buying experience was pleasant & the bike was delivered in a perfect condition.
The prices for Mumbai are as follows:

[farhadtarapore]

Hi, is there any hack or mod to hide those ugly wires below the fuel tank and the seat between that open space? There are some electrical wires, some breather pipe, etc. which looks quite shabby. How come I don't see any of that on a Triumph or an ER6N or any of the foreign bikes?
I know we could tie those with some plastic, but I would really like those to be concealed or re-routed along the chassis.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi, is there any hack or mod to hide those ugly wires below the fuel tank and the seat between that open space? There are some electrical wires, some breather pipe, etc. which looks quite shabby. How come I don't see any of that on a Triumph or an ER6N or any of the foreign bikes?
I know we could tie those with some plastic, but I would really like those to be concealed or re-routed along the chassis.

Arre bhai "itne paise mein itna ich milenga" . Just joking. The exposed wiring of RE motorcycles has always been like that right from base model Standard 350 to top of the line Continental GT. The answer is the wiring harness routing and other components basic design. I don't think much can be done about exposed wiring due to the overall design, but yes you can secure them using plastic cable ties(preferably black). I did so on the wiring harness that sits behind the headlight in our Tbird. I have not yet touched the breather pipe and other wires near the engine. But I don't think it is impossible there must be a way of doing this. Need to do some more research on this.

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

.....

Thanks Navin! Fuel tank will be for a short duration only (July ), post that I would revert to stock. Thanks for the advice on capacity, will keep it within 20 litres. Any references in Mumbai from where I can get it custom built?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Thanks Navin! Fuel tank will be for a short duration only (July ), post that I would revert to stock. Thanks for the advice on capacity, will keep it within 20 litres. Any references in Mumbai from where I can get it custom built?

Mate if you want it just for a short duration then it is better to spend a fraction of that money and buy two jerry cans of 5 litres each. The additional ten litres will easily give you a range of about 300 kms. To give you an idea a normal fuel tank costs about 5K a custom made fuel tank will cost more than that. This is with regards to normal sheet metal and not aluminium. Why spend on a custom fuel tank when you will revert it back to stock.

There are some metal fabricators who do this custom tank building in Mumbai. The best bet is to check with your mechanic and take a quotation from two or more fabricators to decide. I am not sure but I have heard that RE sells a 17 litre fuel tank as an aftermarket option. It will be worthwhile to check that option. If I were you then I would go with the jerry can option as I would be reverting back to stock anyways.

[TheRajput]

I have upgraded from a Honda Activa to the Classic 350 recently. This is my first geared motorcycle & when I got the allocation call, I learnt riding on a pulsar 150 in two days.
Now I can ride the RE confidently at low speeds, but one thing I cannot get correctly is the braking technique. Can someone please tell the correct braking technique on this bike?
For example if I'm going at 40 kmph & the vehicle in front of me brakes suddenly, in such a situation, what will be the best way to brake?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

I have upgraded from a Honda Activa to the Classic 350 recently. This is my first geared motorcycle & when I got the allocation call, I learnt riding on a pulsar 150 in two days.
Now I can ride the RE confidently at low speeds, but one thing I cannot get correctly is the braking technique. Can someone please tell the correct braking technique on this bike?
For example if I'm going at 40 kmph & the vehicle in front of me brakes suddenly, in such a situation, what will be the best way to brake?

Mate first of all congratulations on the CL350. As you would've realized by now that CL350 is considerably heavier than Activa and Pulsar while stationary but becomes light while riding, still you might feel it is heavy as you are used to riding Activa Scooter. The braking on any motorcycle irrespective of its weight and type should always be 60-70% front braking and 30-40% rear braking in combination. There is a tendency of RE motorcycles to nose dive when only front brake is used under panic and sudden braking. This results in front tyre losing traction and skidding.

Stick to combination braking always on any motorcycle to keep the motorcycle balanced while braking safely and efficiently. Hope this helps

[TheRajput]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate first of all congratulations on the CL350. As you would've realized by now that CL350 is considerably heavier than Activa and Pulsar while stationary but becomes light while riding, still you might feel it is heavy as you are used to riding Activa Scooter. The braking on any motorcycle irrespective of its weight and type should always be 60-70% front braking and 30-40% rear....

Thanks buddy!
To be honest, I wasn't sure that I would ride the bike from the showroom to home which is only 3 kms, as I had not ridden a RE before. But once I sat on it & as it began moving in first gear, the feeling was like as if all the heaviness of the bike vanished & I'm gliding in air.
Your answer has helped me & I'm practicing combined braking as much as I can.

One more thing I would like to ask is how do I take off on inclines & flyovers from rest position?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by TheRajput

One more thing I would like to ask is how do I take off on inclines & flyovers from rest position?

Mate its very simple and made even easier by RE's signature torque delivery. Start by releasing the clutch halfway and the bike will start moving. Give a mild throttle and you will be good to go. Steep inclines and climbs will be a walk in the park for your CL350 thanks to the ample availability of torque and the way it is delivered at the bottom end torque curve.

[farhadtarapore]

Hi, has anyone attempted to change the instrument pod of their RE bike? My reason for asking this is

1. the clock never works properly, no matter how many times I set the correct time, it slows down within a day. Currently running about 30 minutes behind IST
2. Had a visitor inside one of my pods:
   
   which probably means it's not sealed
3. Aesthetic value: people customize just about every other part of the bike, so why not the instrument cluster

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

the clock never works properly

Why blame only the clock, when nothing is accurate inside the digital instrument cluster. The speed/distance indicated has +6% error and the fuel gauge is moody. The values shown by the instrument cluster are very approximate. My Thunderbird 500's OE stock instrument cluster was replaced once in warranty due to cracked glass, which was present from the day one. This speaks about Royal Enfield's quality control.

Had a visitor inside one of my pods

Get it replaced, if your bike is under warranty.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi, has anyone attempted to change the instrument pod of their RE bike? My reason for asking this is[list=1][*]the clock never works properly, no matter how many times I set the correct time, it slows down within a day. Currently running about 30 minutes behind IST

Like J.Ravi sir stated the digital values on that LCD is very approximate and not very perfect. My clock has been consistently running behind by 3-5 minutes regardless of the settings. But that's ok as long as its running with a delay of 5 mins. approx.

[*]Had a visitor inside one of my pods. Which probably means it's not sealed

This is really strange mate, looks like your unit has an opening somewhere from where this bugger slipped in. If yes then water can also enter inside while washing or during the rains and ruin the system. If you bike is under warranty then get it replaced immediately. Don't worry about the replacement as I have seen numerous folks changing the instrument pods on their Tbird due to some or the other reason. Majority of them due to confusing fuel gauge readings and those three settings button not working on the instrument cluster. Get it done before the warranty runs out as the Tbird IC costs a bomb.

[slicvic]

Any idea about the cost of the Digital pods?

My Odometer has suddenly stopped working and is stuck on 3 Km