[Siddy]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

There are two screws which hold up the fuel tank on a RE motorcycle. One is in the front where the chassis ends in a triangular shape near the fuel tank head. The other is behind on the fuel tanks tail which is screwed to the chassis just under the front seat. Both the front and rear screw have rubber damping to prevent vibration related noise. Get the rubber dampers checked once and retighten the screws after inspection.

Thanks for the info!
I'll do it right away & put some additional rubber pieces in between the tank and the chassis. I hope this fixes my problem, highway rides have been irritating lately.

[ArizonaJim]

Speaking of the 2009+ UCE powered Royal Enfields, they do not have any rubber washers or spacers in the mount system used by the fuel tank.

There is one large 10mm bolt at the front of the tank and one at the rear. These use steel washers and flange nuts to secure the projecting tabs on the fuel tank directly to the frame.

The Service Manual lists the torque to be applied to these nuts as 50 N/M (37 Lb/Ft).
That is a rather large amount of torque and as a side note, it will create a compressive loading on the flange and frame of 2557 Kg (5638 pounds).
Forces of this magnitude will crush any rubber put into the joint to the point of failure.
Do not put rubber washers/spacers into the assembly.

I should add, the rear tank mount bolt also clamps the engine cylinder head steady in place. This is a short bar that connects the engine head to the frame.

These head steady's have been known to break and if they do break they can produce a rattling or buzzing sound. A broken head steady will also cause the engine to vibrate much more than it would if the part was sound and properly clamped.

I recommend that you examine the condition of the head steady and check to see that both the front and rear bolts are properly torqued to the value I mentioned above.

[abhijeetK]

I fitted this Ralco Speed Blaster 110/90*19 last month on my STD 350 for Rs 2800. Since for 19 inch rim we already have limited options, getting this tyre was not easy and the price was not negotiable. I got this from my mechanic, he ordered it from somewhere else. I am sure this should cost much less than what I have paid.
It has average grip in wet condition but it looks better than the skinny stock tyre.

[tharian]

I am experiencing an issue with my CDI ignition run Enfield.

Although I think I know what the issue is, I wanted to know what exactly is on the way to failure.

The bike has been having starting trouble since few months now, but not that bad, except that I need to kick more than what required unlike before when it used to start in the second or third kick.
Firing missing frequency has increased as well, but just once or twice over 5 kms.
In the last week, there were two instances in which I revv'd the bike in gear before parking it and when I tried starting it after half hour or so, it was dead. Normally in these cases I swap the plug and it starts since my mixture isn't perfect and over time, tends to foul the plug. However that didn't work and when I checked for a spark, there was none.
Since I was out and had no plans to park the bike on the road for the night, I kicked for around 15 minutes after which it fired without any fuss.
It started fine for few days after that until again the same thing happened after I revv'd and parked for a while and started fine after an overnight park.

I know it's not the plug since it would have started after a swap. My guess is the coil or the CDI unit failing. The CDI unit was replaced quite sometime back when the same thing happened.
Another point which makes me feel it is the ignition system is the engine was running hotter than usual and there was a slight change in the exhaust note which makes me feel the spark is not strong.
Is there any other part that needs checking in this case?

[ashwin1224]

Brothers, I would like some opinions on Army bullets. I have been offered a 2004 350 at a tempting price with all papers in running condition (However I feel at least 15k would be needed to get it done right with minor nick knacks). I am 23 and I ride a Duke 390, but restoring an '82 Yezdi D250 too. I am considering this RE only because of the tempting price, and since I always was enamored by "bulleteering".

What should be the price for such bikes? What to look for? And most importantly, What to expect in terms of ride, thump and other bullet things?

[StallionAmit]

Hi All, which Synthetic or mineral engine oil is best for Royal Enfield Classic 350 CC ( year 2011) model. And how much qty should be put. Instead if going to the service center i am planning DIY for oil change.

[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

I am experiencing an issue with my CDI ignition run Enfield.

I think you may be right, your issues indicate either a faulty coil or the wires that lead from the coil may be damaged.

I'm not aware of the resistance value of the enfield ignition coil, if we knew that we could use a multimeter(ohmmeter) to check the resistances of the windings and check whether it is in line with the specifications.

Did you do the spark test and check for the strength of the spark? Ideally it should be a strong blue spark.

Way back when I first got my motorcycle I faced this issue, weird part was since it wasn't apparent all the time I couldn't get it rectified. Only once the problem became obvious could I get it checked out by the mech.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

BOV mate did you get the tappet setting correct.

Originally Posted by tharian

From what I experienced, it started loosing power at around 40-50 Kmh

Yep the pushrod adjustment is fine. When I took it to a local mech(whom I don't trust), he said that the piston is hitting the head I don't really know if he looked at me and saw his next EMI or whether he genuinely voicing his opinion.

Another issue is that I feel like there may be some kinda block in the oil supply lines, since there is a lot of oil leakeage through the screws of the timing cover and from the sides of the timing cover. And yes the screws are all brand new. Its the first thing I did to try and stop the leak.

I'm planning on removing the head and inspecting for myself, any thoughts on what to look for in case of the piston hitting the head?

Regards,
BOV

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

I think you may be right, your issues indicate either a faulty coil or the wires that lead from the coil may be damaged.



Did you do the spark test and check for the strength of the spark? Ideally it should be a strong blue spark.

BOV

Yes, when the engine is firing , it has a blue spark. When the issue crops up, no spark at all.

Anyhow, last morning I removed all the ignition electrical parts , cleaned them and plugged them back ,which is when I noticed none of these parts had been replaced. All have the year 2002 marked on them.

I also noticed there is a stand alone regulator box under the seat apart from the regulator/rectifier box.

Anyone, any idea what this is for since there is already a regulator/rectifier combo box.

-------------------------------
Regarding you bike issue;

I had a similar issue on one of my rides when I had the 500.
The pressure built up in the crankcase due to some reason and more than half the engine oil was burnt and thrown out threw the breather pipe . In that scenario, power dropped quite a bit , but there was not much noise except for the bad knocking due to the pre-ignition.

Why don't you try replacing the oil filter and engine oil first and check before opening the engine.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Speaking of the 2009+ UCE powered Royal Enfields, they do not have any rubber washers or spacers in the mount system used by the fuel tank.

There is one large 10mm bolt at the front of the tank and one at the rear. These use steel washers and flange nuts to secure the projecting tabs on the fuel tank directly to the frame.

Do not put rubber washers/spacers into the assembly.

Jim mate I have seen rubber dampers on RE motorcycles here in India including the new UCE's. I am not sure about what they are using on export models. The front portion on the chassis(the triangle vertex where the two chassis tubes meet) where the fuel tank mounting is done does have a rubber damper within the hole through which the bolt passes. The job of this rubber damper is to avoid/cancel vibrations caused by metal contact. The rear mounting of the fuel tank too has a rubber damper. See the pictures below:

Originally Posted by abhijeetK

I fitted this Ralco Speed Blaster 110/90*19 last month on my STD 350 for Rs 2800. Since for 19 inch rim we already have limited options, getting this tyre was not easy and the price was not negotiable. I got this from my mechanic, he ordered it from somewhere else. I am sure this should cost much less than what I have paid.
It has average grip in wet condition but it looks better than the skinny stock tyre.

I have come across some riders who have opted for Ralco tyres but never got a chance to interact with them about the feedback on these tyres. Kindly share some more feedback with regards to wear and tear and rubber compound. Looking at the average wet grip I believe it has hard compound rubber. But I maybe wrong as it is a brand new tyre and will need some time to break in. It would be great if you can share some more feedback.

Originally Posted by tharian

I am experiencing an issue with my CDI ignition run Enfield.

The bike has been having starting trouble since few months now, but not that bad, except that I need to kick more than what required unlike before when it used to start in the second or third kick.

Firing missing frequency has increased as well, but just once or twice over 5 kms.

Have you checked the battery health as well as the spark plug?

Another point which makes me feel it is the ignition system is the engine was running hotter than usual and there was a slight change in the exhaust note which makes me feel the spark is not strong.

Is there any other part that needs checking in this case?

Have you checked the carb tuning as well. I believe you are not running to lean for this issue to crop up.

Originally Posted by ashwin1224

Brothers, I would like some opinions on Army bullets. I have been offered a 2004 350 at a tempting price with all papers in running condition (However I feel at least 15k would be needed to get it done right with minor nick knacks). I am 23 and I ride a Duke 390, but restoring an '82 Yezdi D250 too. I am considering this RE only because of the tempting price, and since I always was enamored by "bulleteering". What should be the price for such bikes? What to look for? And most importantly, What to expect in terms of ride, thump and other bullet things?

ashwin mate I am not sure if the military disposes their bikes in just 10 years of usage. But I may be wrong as the papers suggest the other way. Kindly get the papers scrutinized properly if it is an auctioned bike. I follow a thumb rule of setting aside at least 10-15K for repairs and maintenance whenever I buy a second hand Bullet. So suggest you also to do that in addition to the buying price. Also the "tempting" price should be taken with a fistful of salt, as Bullets in used market don't come cheap. Kindly check the bike in and out with the help of a knowledgeable mechanic along with papers to finalize your decision. Coming to your questions, RE Bullets of 2004 vintage would cost around 75-90K. Look for things like rusting, oil leaks, pickup speed, smoke from exhaust and condition of the tyres/battery/electrical parts. The thump will be good since it is has a CI engine. Since you are already restoring a Yezdi 250 you know what to expect from vintage bikes like Bullet CI.

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi All, which Synthetic or mineral engine oil is best for Royal Enfield Classic 350 CC ( year 2011) model. And how much qty should be put. Instead if going to the service center i am planning DIY for oil change.

The manual recommends Motul 3000 4T Plus 15W 50 oil for UCE RE's. The UCE engine takes about 2.75 litres of oil. Apart from the mineral oil mentioned above, Motul also offers synthetic oil. There is an entire thread on TeamBHP on oil related queries for RE Bullet titled "Royal Enfield Bullet oil change". You can go through it to find out which suits you better.

Originally Posted by B O V

Yep the pushrod adjustment is fine. When I took it to a local mech(whom I don't trust), he said that the piston is hitting the head I don't really know if he looked at me and saw his next EMI or whether he genuinely voicing his opinion.

Another issue is that I feel like there may be some kinda block in the oil supply lines, since there is a lot of oil leakeage through the screws of the timing cover and from the sides of the timing cover. And yes the screws are all brand new. Its the first thing I did to try and stop the leak.

I'm planning on removing the head and inspecting for myself, any thoughts on what to look for in case of the piston hitting the head?

BOV mate one of my Standard Bullets had the same oil leak issue from the same timing cover location as mentioned by you. There were two culprits that we found out. One was the timing cover casing itself which was worn out and the stud holes that had expanded in addition to leaky gasket that is placed between the timing cover casing. The second culprit was the oil circulation itself which was very weak. Once these issues were resolved the leakage stopped and the bike returned to normal. As you are removing the head first check whether oil circulation is proper or not by removing the rocker covers and starting the bike. Let the bike be on idle while you can see if the oil circulates through the rocker arms. About piston hitting the head am not very sure of that aspect. It may be that the piston hitting the valves.

Originally Posted by tharian

Anyhow, last morning I removed all the ignition electrical parts , cleaned them and plugged them back ,which is when I noticed none of these parts had been replaced. All have the year 2002 marked on them.

tharian mate there were some similar electrical gremlins I was facing when I bought my first used Bullet(1996 model) in 2010. I changed the entire wiring harness just a year back and all the problems associated with the electricals vanished.

I also noticed there is a stand alone regulator box under the seat apart from the regulator/rectifier box.

Is that the CDI unit itself?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Have you checked the battery health as well as the spark plug?

Have you checked the carb tuning as well. I believe you are not running to lean for this issue to crop up.

Battery is few months old, however since this model works without the battery , not sure if that will change anything.
Plug was swapped when this happened as well.

Yes, re-tuned the carb after which it did re-occur.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

tharian mate there were some similar electrical gremlins I was facing when I bought my first used Bullet(1996 model) in 2010. I changed the entire wiring harness just a year back and all the problems associated with the electricals vanished.

I have cleaned all the wire sockets and clips for the ignition system and yet to face the issue again. Will update if it re-occurs.
I didn't notice any damaged wires and since they are original, I feel the wires will be good, just some component is failing.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Is that the CDI unit itself?

CDI unit and coil are under the tank.
The regulator , rectifier , capacitor(i think from the look) are below the seat.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by tharian

Battery is few months old, however since this model works without the battery , not sure if that will change anything.
Plug was swapped when this happened as well.

Yes, re-tuned the carb after which it did re-occur.

I have cleaned all the wire sockets and clips for the ignition system and yet to face the issue again. Will update if it re-occurs.
I didn't notice any damaged wires and since they are original, I feel the wires will be good, just some component is failing.

How about checking the alternator for any issues, from your descriptions it looks like an electrical issue to me.

CDI unit and coil are under the tank.
The regulator , rectifier , capacitor(i think from the look) are below the seat.

Oh yes my bad I have the same arrangement on my Tbird AVL as well. I am not too sure about the capacitor unit.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Jim mate I have seen rubber dampers on RE motorcycles here in India including the new UCE's. I am not sure about what they are using on export models. The front portion on the chassis(the triangle vertex where the two chassis tubes meet) where the fuel tank mounting is done does have a rubber damper within the hole through which the bolt passes. The job of this rubber damper is to avoid/cancel vibrations caused by metal contact. The rear mounting of the fuel tank too has a rubber damper. See the pictures below...

I suppose it is a matter of semantics?

Just to clarify, when I said there were no rubber washers or spacers I was not referring to the rubber tubing that positions the thru bolt and keeps it from contacting the metal frame.
Rather, I was thinking of a thin disk of rubber with a hole thru the center which could be forced between the flanges on the fuel tank and the frame.

[BusyBoyKK]

May day! May day! Help!

My March 2015 Thunderbird 500 is leaking fuel from the hose pipe that connects the tank to the engine. As shown in this video (someone else with the same problem shot this).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at55ve_uoj4

I had to leave it at office today. Noticed the problem first this morning. Called up Chennai OMR service centre. Two service men came home and temporarily tightened the clamp that fixes the hose pipe. Asked me to visit the service centre and get it replaced. Service centre fellows replaced the clamp alone. Certified everything to be good.

Noticed the leak again in the night when I turned on ignition. Had to leave the bike at office.

Could you please suggest below?
1) What could be the problem? For sure service men did not diagnose the exact problem.
2) Bike is standing in office near Spencer Plaza mount road. Is there any RE A.S.S near by or should I call people all the way from OMR.
3) Or should I dump them and take it to Jaf's service near Puthupet? Bike is still under warranty, just 7 months 4.4k KMs old.

Thank you!

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by BusyBoyKK

My March 2015 Thunderbird 500 is leaking fuel from the hose pipe that connects the tank to the engine.

Called up Chennai OMR service centre. Two service men came home and temporarily tightened the clamp that fixes the hose pipe. Asked me to visit the service centre and get it replaced. Service centre fellows replaced the clamp alone. Certified everything to be good.

Noticed the leak again in the night when I turned on ignition. Had to leave the bike at office.

The same thing happened to my Tbird500 after the third free service. One morning when I started the bike I could feel the fuel spewing/spraying out from the part that connects the fuel hose to the hose clip. I tightened the hose clip(clamp) and the problem disappeared never to return.

Could you please suggest below?
1) What could be the problem? For sure service men did not diagnose the exact problem.

Since RE service technicians have already replaced the hose clip, there seems to be a problem with the fuel hose itself. It is dangerous to observe this from close with a naked eye as the petrol is sprayed out with great pressure. I am asking this as one needs to identify the place from where this fuel spewing/spraying is happening. In my case I carefully keyed in the ignition and moved away while pressing the ON(red) switch which starts the EFi pump. I was wearing spectacles and saw that the petrol was spraying/spewing from the area between the hose clip and the fuel hose. I tightened the hose clip and the issue was resolved.

3) Or should I dump them and take it to Jaf's service near Puthupet? Bike is still under warranty, just 7 months 4.4k KMs old.

Mate I would suggest to take it to RE service centre, as your Tbird is still under company warranty. Tell them exactly what happened and ask them to replace both the fuel hose and the hose clip under warranty. Also DO NOT forget to carry out a thorough test before taking the delivery. Take a short ride and start the EFi pump by pressing that ON(red) button at least 3 to 5 times to see if the problem reoccurs. Ride Safe.

P.S. I don't know if its true, but RE still thinks that most of their customers are DIY types like the old school riders. Being a DIY guy I was able to pin point the issue and resolve it. Nevertheless I complained about this during the fourth free service to bring it to RE's notice about this dangerous problem.

[BusyBoyKK]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

The same thing happened to my Tbird500 after the third free service.

Thanks for your prompt response Navin!!

Coincidentally I got the 3rd free service done about a month ago. I tried tightening the clamp screw myself but in vain. Tried few times and finally called up RE.

It is spraying fuel from the place where the metal tube coming out of EFI unit and the hose get connected. I went for a short ride after they replaced and did not find the leak. I asked them to replace the hose but they said hose looked fine blah blah.

Anyway, will ensure it is done properly now. Thanks again.