[schitre05]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

Even I am looking for a good option as there isn't much choice in 19 inch rims. Can you tell me the price of this one?

Hello ricky,

Here in Mumbai I paid 2650/- for this tyre. The MRF Nylogrip and Ceat were retailing at around 2300 to 2500 with tube.
Cheers!

[StallionAmit]

Hi have anybody put tubeless tyres on their Royal Enfield. I have a classic 350 cc, can i do it? If anybody then what is the total costs and the benefits of having the tubeless over tube types?

[outofthebox]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

Hi have anybody put tubeless tyres on their Royal Enfield. I have a classic 350 cc, can i do it?

One can't put tubeless tyres directly because the spoked rims of RE Classic are 'leaky'. First you will need to replace the rims with alloy versions which can take tubeless tyres and then go for tubeless tyres.

Tubeless tyres' obvious advantage is safety at high speeds in the event of a puncture - air leaks much slower through a tubeless tyre compared to a tubed one.

Tube burst events are also out of the equation in tubeless tyres. Again, a safety issue at high speeds.

Lastly, punctures are easier to repair, but in some specific puncture cases, a tubeless tyre can become unsafe for use and it is wiser to replace it than repair the puncture.

A simpler option is to put tubeless tyres with a tube inside it and preferably use Slime inside the tube to avoid high speed incidents. I've done something similar on my RE CL 500 wheels.

[StallionAmit]

I have a Royal Enfield Classic 350CC, purchased second hand, the first registration data is Aug 2011, i want to check whether my royal enfield engine is having UCE engine or not?
How to check?

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by StallionAmit

I have a Royal Enfield Classic 350CC, purchased second hand, the first registration data is Aug 2011, i want to check whether my royal enfield engine is having UCE engine or not?
How to check?

StallionAmit mate all RE models that came during/after 2010 were with UCE engines. Since yours is a Classic 350cc 2011 model it will be having a UCE engine. The tell tale signs are it will not be having a separate bolt on gearbox unit, meaning the gearbox is integrated into one single unit casing. Hope this helps.

[B O V]

I'm gettin these weird metallic clattering sounds at about mid throttle in both the 3rd and 4th gears on my cast iron ( also a loss in power)

I initially thought it was a timing issue, but when I checked using the feeler gauge the points were at 4mm which is what is mentioned in the service manual.

What could be the possible issue here?

Regards

BOV

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

What could be the possible issue here?

Regards

BOV

Big end bearing failing is what I can think of.

[B O V]

Originally Posted by tharian

Big end bearing failing is what I can think of.

I just got my engine rebuilt completely about 6 months ago, plus wouldn't the big end failure make itself audible across the rpm range?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

I just got my engine rebuilt completely about 6 months ago, plus wouldn't the big end failure make itself audible across the rpm range?

From what I experienced, it started loosing power at around 40-50 Kmh and I couldn't go faster since the noise got worse and there was almost no power.

If the bearing was replaced as well in the rebuild, it's unlikely this is the cause.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by B O V

I'm gettin these weird metallic clattering sounds at about mid throttle in both the 3rd and 4th gears on my cast iron ( also a loss in power)

What could be the possible issue here?

BOV mate did you get the tappet setting correct. The metallic clattering also happens due to improper tapper setting. Another suspect I can think of is improper clutch setting or worn our clutch plates. But that is remote since you got your bike rebuilt just 6 months back. Nevertheless do get your clutch setting checked as improper setting of the clutch or worn out clutch results in loss of power.

[Siddy]

The tank on my Bullet 500 (UCE) rattles at speeds above 80 kmph (5th gear) and 60 kmph (4th gear), no tachometer so posted the speeds. I told the service guys to take care of this during my scheduled service and they tightened the tank, which I think they did not. The rattles are still there and when I grab the tank in between my legs or put some pressure with my hand on the tank the rattling stops. Any solution for this? The sound gets really irritating on the highways.

Thanks in advance.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Siddy

The rattles are still there and when I grab the tank in between my legs or put some pressure with my hand on the tank the rattling stops. Any solution for this? The sound gets really irritating on the highways.

IMO the team is coming on contact with the chassis at some place.

The fuel tank must be sitting/mounted on rubber over the bikes chassis - Check if the rubber is good or sheared.

The screw that holds the fuel tank too has rubber bushes to nullify the induced vibrations - Check them too.

[Siddy]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

The fuel tank must be sitting/mounted on rubber over the bikes chassis - Check if the rubber is good or sheared.
The screw that holds the fuel tank too has rubber bushes to nullify the induced vibrations - Check them too.

Where exactly are these screws? I heard there are two screws and I've to remove the seat as well. Is this correct? Please advice.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Where exactly are these screws? I heard there are two screws and I've to remove the seat as well. Is this correct? Please advice.

Hey buddy, sorry I don't own an Enfield but I am guessing as I had one dismantled the fuel tank from the chassis in my Bike (Karizma R).

There is one screw at the base of the fuel tank just below the front part of the seat. You'll need to remove the riders seat to access it.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Where exactly are these screws? I heard there are two screws and I've to remove the seat as well. Is this correct? Please advice.

There are two screws which hold up the fuel tank on a RE motorcycle. One is in the front where the chassis ends in a triangular shape near the fuel tank head. The other is behind on the fuel tanks tail which is screwed to the chassis just under the front seat. Both the front and rear screw have rubber damping to prevent vibration related noise. Get the rubber dampers checked once and retighten the screws after inspection.