[rnagpal89]

Hi

I gor my TB 350 a few months back. Rode it for short distances. ODO reads about 3600 kms now.

Planning to do a solo ride. Rajasthan in all probability ( From Delhi ).
Only daytime riding. Comfortable stretches.

What do i need to carry as spares ? Buying my touring equipment tomorrow ( For safety ). Any other concerns I should keep in mind?

TIA

Mod Note: Please avoid typing like... this... Extremely discomforting for others to read

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by rnagpal89

What do i need to carry as spares ? Buying my touring equipment tomorrow ( For safety ). Any other concerns I should keep in mind?

rnagpal89 mate nice to know about your solo touring from DL to RJ. First thing to ensure is your Tbird350 is fully serviced. I mean lubing, oiling and greasing is carried out with general checks. Secondly about the spares you can carry clutch cable, accelerator cable, pair of spark plugs, etc. Make sure you also wear protective riding gears and respect the heavy vehicles on the national highways. I practice of taking a break every after 80-100 kms for about 10 mins. this relieves yourself as well as your motorcycle. All the best for your solo ride.

[Mr.O]

On removing my 2006 STD 350 Bullet's spark plug, I found out the top portion of the center electrode and inside end of the ground electrode (facing area between the plug gaps) are white in colour (which means it is running lean, right?), the rest is black with some amount of sooth (which means it is running, rich, right?). It heats up a lot during traffic. Experts, what do you think? Is it running rich or lean? And at what time the spark plug should fire?, presently it is firing at around 5-6mm from TDC.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Mr.O

On removing my 2006 STD 350 Bullet's spark plug, I found out the top portion of the center electrode and inside end of the ground electrode (facing area between the plug gaps) are white in colour (which means it is running lean, right?), the rest is black with some amount of sooth (which means it is running, rich, right?). It heats up a lot during traffic. Experts, what do you think? Is it running rich or lean? And at what time the spark plug should fire?, presently it is firing at around 5-6mm from TDC.

You are partially correct in saying the white center electrode indicates the engine is running lean but it's not as simple as that.
It is also possible the spark advance is slightly too "advanced or the spark plug's heat range is too hot for the operating conditions or that the engine has been running at a high speed.

Assuming the last two possibilities are not the case, there is "white" and then there is "off white" and either of these colors on the center electrode don't necessarily indicate a problem.
Although a very light tan is the best color with some of the additives used in modern petrol a very light gray color may replace the tan and to some people this light gray looks as though it is white, especially when seen next to the black color that typically is seen on the metal end of the spark plug body.

If the center ceramic or metal tips of the plug look like they have blistered or have been partially burned away, the spark plug is definitely the wrong heat range or the engine air/fuel mixture is running very lean or both.

As for the black metal areas showing the fuel/air is running "rich" that is not usually the case.
Even if the engine is running with the correct air/fuel ratio, black carbon will build up on the metal surfaces.

The reason for this is, our engines are not very efficient. Some of the carbon in the fuel is not burned when the fuel/air mixture burns and this results in some of the carbon ending up on the cooler metal surfaces inside the combustion chamber.

Speaking of this carbon buildup, it is exactly the reason the spark plugs center electrode has the long ceramic insulator around it.

If the carbon is not burned off of the center electrode ceramic insulator, a short will develop and the electricity will escape thru it to the metal areas of the spark plug without creating a spark.

The ceramic insulator is a poor conductor of heat so, although the metal surfaces of the spark plugs body remain relatively cool the center electrode can easily get to be over 800° C.
This high temperature burns away any carbon that might have collected on it leaving behind some of the additives that were in the fuel.

Anyway, I've babbled on longer than I intended to just a thought about the amount of spark advance you say your engine is running.

If we are speaking of the advance at a idle or engine off condition I believe the correct location for the piston at the moment of firing should be around 0.8-1.0 mm BTDC**.
The 5-6mm value you mention would be too far advanced and it may explain the white appearance of your spark plugs insulator.

**This is the recommended setting for the late model 500cc Iron Barrels and may be incorrect for the 350cc engines.

[farhadtarapore]

Hi
Wanted to know if the PR Enterprises service center at Mahim (Mumbai) is any good. I have to give them my bike for first service and I am apprehensive about them screwing up a perfectly good bike.
Thanks in advance.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

Hi
Wanted to know if the PR Enterprises service center at Mahim (Mumbai) is any good. I have to give them my bike for first service and I am apprehensive about them screwing up a perfectly good bike.
Thanks in advance.

farhadtarapore mate I haven't been to PR Enterprises ever in all these years of owning RE's. The reviews about them are very mixed and it is like taking a chance with them. I have seen their workshop which is bang on the road opposite Mahim railway station. The space looks a bit cramped with hordes of motorcycles around.

I have done all my four services(Tbird500) from Synergy Auto located at Saki Naka Andheri East. Again my experience over there has been a mixed bag(sometimes great sometimes not so great) like 50/50. Had gone to Mira Road for some personal work and decided to get my brake pedal replaced and an allen screw fitted on silencer back cover as one among three screws were missing at RE Service centre called Unison. I thought it would just take about 15-20 mins for the job(mind you I was there before the gate opened). Job card filled and the wait began. I received my motorcycle at 3.00.pm. that is it took them 4 hours to do this job and that too after a lot of follow up from me. Whereas one of my other friends who owns a Tbird 350 2010 model always has good things to say about Unison. So in all RE Service Centres are hit or miss.

[Mr.O]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If we are speaking of the advance at a idle or engine off condition I believe the correct location for the piston at the moment of firing should be around 0.8-1.0 mm BTDC**.
The 5-6mm value you mention would be too far advanced and it may explain the white appearance of your spark plugs insulator.

**This is the recommended setting for the late model 500cc Iron Barrels and may be incorrect for the 350cc engines.

To further retard the timing, we should rotate the plate clockwise or counter clockwise? When the ammeter deflects from negative to zero, it is when the spark plug "fires" right? And how can we know whether the stroke is compression stroke or exhaust stroke? Can we know it from the ammeter ?

[ArizonaJim]

Looking at the points plate from the left hand side of the motorcycle, rotating the plate clockwise retards the spark. Rotating the points plate counter-clockwise advances the spark.

Yes, using the ammeter to determine the exact moment the ignition points begin to open is a good way to know when that event happens.

When the ignition points are closed the ammeter will be showing a discharge. That indicates the ignition coil is building up its magnetic field in the primary windings.
When the points begin to open, turning off the electrical power, the magnetic field in the ignition coil collapses inducing the high voltage in the secondary windings that fire the sparkplug.

The best way to know if the piston is on the compression stroke is to remove the tappet (valve lifter) cover and check the movement of the pushrods.

When the engine is nearing TDC on the compression stroke, both pushrods should turn freely.

If the engines piston is at the end of the exhaust stroke, the inlet valve will be opening so neither of the pushrods should rotate easily. Actually, at this time, both the exhaust and the inlet valve are slightly open so both pushrods should be under so much load that they won't rotate at all with finger pressure.

If this method isn't convenient, looking at the points cam, if it looks like it is about to bump into the phenolic block on the ignition points that serves as the cam follower and a slight clockwise rotation of the cam would cause the points to rise or open, the piston is on the compression stroke.

If the high point on the points cam is about 180° away from the points phenolic block, the piston is between the exhaust and inlet stroke so the engine crankshaft must be rotated another turn before the points can be adjusted.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by rnagpal89

Hi
What do i need to carry as spares ? Buying my touring equipment tomorrow ( For safety ). Any other concerns I should keep in mind?

From my experience:
1. clutch cable
2. Tin can holding 2 ltrs of petrol
3. Tubes for tyres (if yours is a tube based tyre)
4. 2 spark plugs (Bosch make)
5. if space allows, a foot operated air pump

Drive safe and have a great experience. Post us on the trip.

[(Alok)]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

I have few questions:
1) Should i really need to change the carb or use carb service kit to replace internals

Is it available for VM-24?

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

I have few questions:
1) Should i really need to change the carb or use carb service kit to replace internals
2) If i really need to change carb which carb should i opt for ? older model which came in my RE or newer one which started coming few years back ?

If you are happy with VM-24, than defiantly go with VM-24 again (if you can found).
Pros: RE Mechanics knows it’s tuning and knows what to do if mistuned.
Cons: Need more frequent tuning than Japanese style carburetor.

Going with BS-26/29, will be a trial and error game. And there are two types of BS carbs, one RE is using and other Bajaj is using in pulsars.

[kanu2k15]

Ok guys so I have finally booked my 350cc classic beast in white color(Ash). I have been told the delivery could be around Diwali so very excited for that. Now that I have plunged in the world of bikes this being my first bike ever(have driven friends bikes mostly pulsars), I need your suggestion about the color. I like the color but would this color be difficult to maintain in ling run? I don't mind polishing the beauty monthly/fortnightly. Any recommendations regarding this would be very helpful.

Also I have collected some good PDI list from the great web and will perform it when I receive a call from the dealer for delivery. Anything else you guys think I should keep in mind before and after getting the bike. Thanks to all the great people here for all the help.

[kanu2k15]

Also I want to know that I loved the color scheme on the classic 500 especially the racing stripe across the front and rear mud guard. Is it possible that I can get that kind of stripe painted on the ash color exactly matching the color scheme on the tank (black and gold). Anyone know any good painter in west Delhi who can paint as good as factory finish?

This is what I am talking about.



MODS: Sorry for posting this post under my own post but I am not able to see the edit button so that I could include this above. Please merge my posts. Thanks

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by kanu2k15

Ok guys so I have finally booked my 350cc classic beast in white colour(Ash). I need your suggestion about the color. I like the color but would this color be difficult to maintain in the long run? I don't mind polishing the beauty monthly/fortnightly. Any recommendations regarding this would be very helpful.

kanu2k15 mate the choice of colour is something which is very subjective and personal. I usually don't advice people on choice of colour, if you like the ash colour then go for it. Maintaining any colour is a task mate especially matt finish. But the ash colour offered comes in a glossy finish so not much of a problem. A good carnauba wax polish will be adequate in maintaining the colour and giving it that shiny look. Post the pics once your buy your beauty.

[kanu2k15]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

A good carnauba wax polish will be adequate in maintaining the colour and giving it that shiny look. Post the pics once your buy your beauty.

Will sure do mate. Thanks for the suggestion, will buy it when I get my Royal Enfield.

Also any suggestion about the mud guard racing stripes? It would look awesome with a stripe similar to its big brother.

[Mr.O]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Looking at the points plate from the left hand side of the motorcycle, rotating the plate clockwise retards the spark. Rotating the points plate counter-clockwise advances the spark.

Thanks a lot ArizonaJim. Now it runs a lot smoother. Is it possible to fit a CDI unit? Is that going to be a complicated task (Is it worth doing)? And how much it is going to cost?