[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

Need help,

I have 1997 RE CI 350 CC engine, recently i have faced few issues related to carburettor and my mech suggested me to change the carb. I have few questions:

1) Should i really need to change the carb or use carb service kit to replace internals

2) If i really need to change carb which carb should i opt for ? older model which came in my RE or newer one which started coming few years back ?



Regards,

Shubhendra Singh

Would be useful to share what sort of issues you have?
Jeroen

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Would be useful to share what sort of issues you have?
Jeroen

a) Erratic idling, it keeps varying. Sometime it gets too high and sometimes its just perfect or dies down
b) Fuel overflow - I never had this problem but now if I don’t shut the fuel supply. I need to kick multiple times and then black smoke emitting from silencer
c) High fuel consumption - as low as 13-15 kmpl. When corrected, vehicle takes at least 2 minutes of warm up with choke engaged else it dies down as soon as you engage gear and start moving forward
d) Sluggish performance on highway, It really frustrates me. Even a simple overtaking or moderate incline require revving up or gear downshift. I used another bullet for 3 weeks and 2 trips, same model and configuration and realized there is noticeable difference in performance
e) Leakage from here and there
I will probably open the engine as well as there is connecting rod making noise along with timing gear. Another advice needed – how to flush gearbox. My bike has run around 1.4 lacs kilometer and I never overhauled the gearbox. During my last overhaul 6 years back, we simply did top up of gearbox thick oil. Is there any way to flush the gearbox, should I use diesel or any other liquid to flush it and then refill with brand new oil?

Thank you !
Shubhendra Singh

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

a) Erratic idling, it keeps varying. Sometime it gets too high and sometimes its just perfect or dies down
b) Fuel overflow - I never had this problem but now if I don’t shut the fuel supply. I need to kick multiple times and then black smoke emitting from silencer
c) High fuel consumption - as low as 13-15 kmpl. When corrected, vehicle takes at least 2 minutes of warm up with choke engaged else it dies down as soon as you engage gear and start moving forward
d) Sluggish performance on highway, It really frustrates me. Even a simple overtaking or moderate incline require revving up or gear downshift. I used another bullet for 3 weeks and 2 trips, same model and configuration and realized there is noticeable difference in performance
e) Leakage from here and there
I will probably open the engine as well as there is connecting rod making noise along with timing gear. Another advice needed – how to flush gearbox. My bike has run around 1.4 lacs kilometer and I never overhauled the gearbox. During my last overhaul 6 years back, we simply did top up of gearbox thick oil. Is there any way to flush the gearbox, should I use diesel or any other liquid to flush it and then refill with brand new oil?

Thank you !
Shubhendra Singh

Looks like there might be a few things wrong with your bike. When is the last time you checked and or replaced the air filter?

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

a) Erratic idling, it keeps varying. Sometime it gets too high and sometimes its just perfect or dies down

b) Fuel overflow - I never had this problem but now if I don’t shut the fuel supply. I need to kick multiple times and then black smoke emitting from silencer

Hi Shubhendra, the above said symptoms suggest a dirty / worn out needle valve that is attached to the floats in the carburetor. This is responsible for the control of fuel flow from the petrol tank to the carburetor float bowl. I think at the utmost, a needle valve replacement and float adjustment will bring an end to the fuel related problems of your bullet.

Regarding the carburetor repair, every mechanic tries the easy way out by opting for a new carburetor. Unless the jets are jammed in place and the passages are badly clogged, you can overhaul the carburetor and bring it back to good health.

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

When is the last time you checked and or replaced the air filter?

100 kilometers back. DO you think its more than what i described (unhealthy engine). I will most probably open the engine with the help of mechanic this weekend. What to look for while opening the engine. Current problem is power drop and connecting noise for which we want to open the engine.

Originally Posted by adrian

Unless the jets are jammed in place and the passages are badly clogged, you can overhaul the carburetor and bring it back to good health.

Thank you. What about gear box should i flush it or leave it as it is ?

Regards,
Shubhendra Singh

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by adrian

Hi Shubhendra, the above said symptoms suggest a dirty / worn out needle valve that is attached to the floats in the carburetor. This is responsible for the control of fuel flow from the petrol tank to the carburetor float bowl. I think at the utmost, a needle valve replacement and float adjustment will bring an end to the fuel related problems of your bullet.

You're bang on correct adrian mate, I just came across your post. I posted a few minutes back on another thread if not same but a different resolution (float bowl getting stuck and throttle valve spring getting jammed) a similar problem faced by another RE owner. What a coincidence

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

I will most probably open the engine with the help of mechanic this weekend. What to look for while opening the engine. Current problem is power drop and connecting noise for which we want to open the engine.

Thank you. What about gear box should i flush it or leave it as it is ?

Shubhendra, before opening the engine, you should rule out all the other factors that would cause an engine to run bad. An engine with an out of tune carburetor can sound like skeletons on a tin roof

Carburetor

1. Disassemble, clean and rebuild the carburetor. Don't forget to follow up with compressed air after cleaning the jets and passages with carburetor cleaner. Replace any worn out parts.

2. Check the condition of the choke and ensure that it is seating perfectly.

3.Check for vacuum leaks and replace the rubber hose from the air filter to the carburetor if it has cracks and also check for air leaks through the mating surface of the intake manifold (in the newer enfields, they have a rubber O ring). Use silicone spray before sliding the carburetor into the intake manifold to ensure an air tight seal.

4. Tune the carburetor and adjust the float height to company specifications.

Spark plug

1. Check the condition of the spark plug- clean and adjust the electrode gap.

2. Check the condition of the spark plug suppressor cap and also the condition of the high tension wires

Ignition coils

1. Check the condition of the ignition coil.

Air filter

Clean the air filter and check for oil fouling

Drive chain

Clean, lubricate and adjust the tension

Gear box

Drain the gear box oil and refill with correct amount of fresh oil.
Check the drained oil for metallic particles that would indicate wear and tear in the gear assembly.
Please do not use diesel or any other types of solvents to flush the gear box.

After fine tuning as above, ride the motorcycle and decide whether you have to open up the engine or not. Believe me there is a 95% chance that you will not have to touch that engine and if it turns out that way, don't forget to complement your machine with an engine oil change.

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by adrian

After fine tuning as above, ride the motorcycle and decide whether you have to open up the engine or not. Believe me there is a 95% chance you will not have to touch that engine and if it turns out that way, don't forget to complement your machine with an engine oil change.

Makes sense Adrian. Will follow steps mentioned by you during weekend.
My engine was fully overhauled around 30,000 kms back and was working fine till few months back. In last few months i have really had few breakdowns and niggling issues back to back.
As i am planning for a 1200 kms trip and another 3600 kms trip in September, i really dont want to take any chance.

Thanks a lot !

Regards,
Shubhendra Singh

[bullet_chacha]

Hey guys!

Can someone advise how easy/difficult/impossible/don't even think of that is it to replace the rear mudguard of a standard 500 with that of a classic?

Has someone tried/done it?

[B O V]

Originally Posted by bullet_chacha

Hey guys!Has someone tried/done it?

Should be pretty simple if done by any mech/person who knows what he's doing. All you'll need would be the classic rear fender and the round stays.

Also you might have to play around with the mounting points on the mudguard itself to get distance between the rear mudguard and the tyre in that sweet spot.

Nothing impossible as such.

Regards,

BOV

[ankan]

Hi everyone!

I have paid in full for a black classic 500 today but due to some new rules in Kamrup DTO I will get the bike only after 10 to 15 days. Now the problem is that in Guwahati Royal Enfields are very much prone to theft. So can I use locks for the disc or is there any other way to secure my bike? Please help guys. Kindly suggest some good brand of locks if possible.

Originally Posted by ankan

So can I use locks for the disc or is there any other way to secure my bike?

I use a heavy duty steel chain with an old Navtal lock tieing the rear wheel with swing arms through the spokes/saree-guard to secure my Thunderbird 500 at unknown deserted places.

[ankan]

@Ravvi Sir

What to do for daily use? I can use the chain at night but it will be difficult during other times.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ankan

What to do for daily use? I can use the chain at night but it will be difficult during other times.

Mate you can buy a U lock in addition to the disc lock and your handle lock that comes as default in every motorcycle. The former two locks will act as a deterrent to the thief. I am not so familiar with lock brands but some names that come to my mind are Kryptonite, ABUS, etc.

[ankan]

@navin_V8

Thanks mate!

Will go for these I guess. I was already thinking of going in for disc lock but the U lock also sounds good. Thanks for the quick help everyone