[commonman]

Originally Posted by adrian

2.75 L is the volume of oil you can add to a fresh engine or a rebuilt engine. I change the engine oil of my bullet myself and what I do is that I measure the drained oil before refilling with fresh oil. I have got readings of 1.9, 2.1 etc, but never more than that after waiting for about 45 minutes, tilting and bouncing the motorcycle. Now think of how much the RE ASS would drain in 5 minutes or so. You also have to pay for 2.75 litres.

Adrian,you are right.The manual says 2.75L and just because of this the RESC takes money for 2.75 L.When I did the oil change from Shell,it was only taking 2.25L. But I have to pay for 3L, since oil was sold only in 1L containers.I kept the remaining 750 ml oil,in a bottle with me.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

Nope. Yesterday, searched for silicone spray in my town and So, what next?

If the squeaking didn't cease after spraying with chain lube, don't bother to get the silicone lube; the problem may not be in that area. Could you try to pinpoint the source of the sound ? And one more question - do you have a drum brake at the rear wheel ?

Originally Posted by commonman

Adrian,you are right.The manual says 2.75L and just because of this the RESC takes money for 2.75 L.When I did the oil change from Shell,it was only taking 2.25L. But I have to pay for 3L, since oil was sold only in 1L containers.I kept the remaining 750 ml oil,in a bottle with me.

I did all the free service with the RE ASS. Each time I found out that they had only opened the primary (the dust and grime on the other one staying as such) to drain out oil. I will ask about this and they give this thread damage story. The oil window will remain dark and opaque just like it was before the oil change and each time I have to pay the price of 2.75 L engine oil.

After the free services, I started to do the oil changes and then only I found out the real deal. Now after the oil change the oil in the window is golden yellow in color and changes to light transparent brown after startup. There is also change in the way the engine sounds and feels after I have started to change the oil on my own. So who ever I see with the new UCE Bullet, I advice them to learn to change the engine oil and do it themselves , once the warranty period ceases. The advantages being
1. You don't have to overpay
2. Old engine oil gets drained from your motorcycle properly (through both the drain plugs) (not that 5 minute fiasco job from the ASS)
3. You don't get an overfilled engine
4. You can ensure that the oil filter is actually replaced

[drdeepudev]

Originally Posted by adrian

If the squeaking didn't cease after spraying with chain lube, don't bother to get the silicone lube; the problem may not be in that area. Could you try to pinpoint the source of the sound ? And one more question - do you have a drum brake at the rear wheel ?

No, its a disc brake. The model in question is a 2014 Thunderbird 350cc purchased on October 4 and has clocked close to 28000Km.

The sound is only there when the bike hits the pot hole and is not present on braking. It is more if there is a pillion. Hence I doubted the swing arm. The squeak is from the rear portion only and I'm not able to reproduce that when the bike is idle and on pushing the rear seat / grab bars hard. Hence confused.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

The sound is only there when the bike hits the pot hole and is not present on braking. It is more if there is a pillion. Hence I doubted the swing arm. The squeak is from the rear portion only and I'm not able to reproduce that when the bike is idle and on pushing the rear seat / grab bars hard. Hence confused.

Can you please try one thing. Lube the swingarm hub using the chain lube on either sides where the swingarm cross member meets the frame. Also, pull out the round chrome caps that covers the swing arm bush bolts outside the frame and lube it generously. Check if this helps.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

No, its a disc brake. The model in question is a 2014 Thunderbird 350cc purchased on October 4 and has clocked close to 28000Km.

The sound is only there when the bike hits the pot hole and is not present on braking. It is more if there is a pillion. Hence I doubted the swing arm. The squeak is from the rear portion only and I'm not able to reproduce that when the bike is idle and on pushing the rear seat / grab bars hard. Hence confused.

Did you try lubricating the swing arm pivots ? Use fresh gear oil (Gear HP 90 or 120, actually any gear oil with 90 or 120 grade) or fresh engine oil. Don't use drained / used engine oil as they contain very toxic chemicals.
edit : Now look at the way two bulleteers (actually one of them is an ex) thinking in the same freequency Looks like man_of_steel in his lightning speed has beat me to it

[drdeepudev]

Adrian, trying to upload the picture you asked about that drain plug covered with m-seal. This is the quality of service in the service centre. This was not informed to me while in the show room.

I've not cleaned the bike. If not sufficient, ill wash the area and repost the same.

I felt im cheated by these guys. I prefer frankness, which is rarely seen these days from the service centre.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

Adrian, trying to upload the picture you asked about that drain plug covered with m-seal.

It is the primary drain plug with the oil filter screen that is seen covered in m-seal. Actually it a somewhat circular plate that is held in place by two 8 mm flanged hex nuts and the chances of the threads getting ripped are rare. The oil tight seal of the plate is obtained by means of a rubber O ring. If by chance the O ring gets damaged, mild oil seepage would occur. Now the RE ASS guys would never replace the O ring with a new one primarily because they identify the leak on inspection after the oil refill and to rectify it by replacing the O ring, they have to re-do the whole job, i.e. open the drain plug which will drain all the oil. And most of the time they won't have the O ring in stock. So they will go the easy way by dabbing it with m-seal. Next time you are going for the service, buy an O ring from an authorized parts dealer, give it to the mechanic and ask him to replace the damaged O ring.

Like wise the secondary drain plug nut has a copper crush washer that should be replace every other oil change to prevent oil seepage. For the immediate oil change after the replacement, just flip it over and install.

[drdeepudev]

Yes. Will do that. Now only the secondary drain plug is removed. I've stopped visiting the RE ASS. Not that satisfied with the service they provide. I had enquired with my FNG mechanic whether that m-seal can be removed and i was informed that the thread might have gone and will have to take that to the lathe.

Did you notice that oil stain? I believe, as discussed earlier, the O ring of kicker might have gone kaput.

@man of steel, you had advised me to remove the chrome cap of the swing arm right. I had removed that for greasing the swing arm rod and I had nicely dabbed the area with grease.

@adrian. We are talking about the same area right.

Thanks for the detailed information provided.

[ArizonaJim]

Based on the picture, I don't think there is any sealant on the drains.
It looks like an accumulation of dirt mixed with a little oil that may have seeped down from the area of the drive sprocket. (Oil from the chain will often collect in this area).

I suppose, if they cleaned up the bottom of the engine during a wash when the oil was last changed, the dirt I see in the photo could be just an accumulation from riding during the last 500 km.
If they didn't totally clean the bottom of the engine during the last oil change, I wonder if they removed the two drain plugs at all?

The buildup around the oil pump inlet filter cover just looks like mud to me.
Can the area be cleaned and a new picture taken so I can see if there is actually some sort of sealant applied in that area?

[sandip]

Originally Posted by farhadtarapore

I had also asked for PDI before vehicle is sent for registration, but didn't get any call for doing that. Got a call that the vehicle has arrive from registration and I can take the delivery.

Thankfully, there were no issues I found in my post-delivery PDI

I had made it clear that I will NOT pay the balance amount (Less the 5,000 advance) unless I get to see the VIN of the bike and had endorsed this on the booking slip as well. However, the dealer did not budge and gave the same response as you got.

Then, I called a local guy. On his intervention, I was taken to a yard, where the gate was opened and the same guy said, "Here, choose anyone you want".

These RE guys haven't heard about customer service yet.

[adrian]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

@man of steel, you had advised me to remove the chrome cap of the swing arm right. I had removed that for greasing the swing arm rod and I had nicely dabbed the area with grease.
@adrian. We are talking about the same area right.

man_of_steel had advised you to lubricate the points in the picture in addition to the place you mentioned and yes it is the same area I was talking about.



Picture courtsey : Team-BHP (Randyman's C500 thread)

Grease would not seep into the joints. So use oil or chain lube.

[drdeepudev]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Based on the picture, I don't think there is any sealant on the drains.
Can the area be cleaned and a new picture taken so I can see if there is actually some sort of sealant applied in that area?

Its raining here and i was too lazy to wash the whole the bike. .

I've cleaned the area of the drain bolt and clicked a picture. This shows the sealant.

[sudeep11787]

I ride a classic 350 2015. With the stock handlebars, I was getting wrist pains, so changed it to RD350 handles with the connecting bar and bar end weights. Wrists are extremely comfortable, but now I sit at the end of the front seat and getting some middle back pains. Handling has improved a lot but back pain is there. Please suggest which handlebar should I go for.

I am not willing to change the stock seat as I find the springs useful and love keeping things stock.

Please suggest

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

@man of steel, you had advised me to remove the chrome cap of the swing arm right. I had removed that for greasing the swing arm rod and I had nicely dabbed the area with grease.

@adrian. We are talking about the same area right.

The other area I was talking about is the same area that adrian has marked in the picture.

Originally Posted by sudeep11787

..but now I sit at the end of the front seat and getting some middle back pains. Handling has improved a lot but back pain is there.

I am not willing to change the stock seat as I find the springs useful and love keeping things stock.

Sorry to say, but the spring seats might be the culprit here. These springed seats might be great for a short while but will not be doing any good to the back on the long run.

[drdeepudev]

Originally Posted by sudeep11787

I ride a classic 350 2015.

Please suggest

Dear Sudeep,

I too feel the springed seat might be the culprit here. I've seen few cases of similar nature in our club and changing that resolved the issue.

Also, please see the suspension settings and I hope your lower back is trouble free. Even tight muscles in the lower back can cause this trouble. Mild stretching may help.

The riding posture may also be a culprit. Please see those things before taking any decision.

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

The other area I was talking about is the same area that adrian has marked in the picture.



.

Got it. I sprayed motul chain lube in that area. Will give the bike a good wash and repeat the procedure. I sprayed that today morning, but the squeaks are still present. Thanks.

Regards,
Deepu