[B O V]

Originally Posted by The Great

The CI or AVL or the UCE 500.I am just in the market for a "Forever Bullet"

Look no further than them pre 70's enfield's (350), it'll be a hell lotta fun restoring those and riding them daily.

Parts availability isn't an issue, nearly every single part can be found easily at the local spares shops.

Only the packing and some gaskets might take a few more days as they might not have them in stock. Cam wheels too, kinda hard to find good quality ones around here. Bend pipe as well, will take a few more days than normal. All the other parts should be available off the shelf.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by B O V

Look no further than them pre 70's enfield's (350), it'll be a hell lotta fun restoring those and riding them daily.

Parts availability isn't an issue, nearly every single part can be found easily at the local spares shops.

Only the packing and some gaskets might take a few more days as they might not have them in stock. Cam wheels too, kinda hard to find good quality ones around here. Bend pipe as well, will take a few more days than normal. All the other parts should be available off the shelf.

Cam wheels even fresh out of company packing is always a lottery. Very common to mix and match from your mechanic's pet old cam potli, strung together on rusted GI wire, till you get the best combination. Once you do, guard the pair with your life.

[outofthebox]

Anyone know if the Brembo front disc brake setup of CGT can be deployed on the Classic 500 without any extensive mods? My C500 has completed 4 years and I'm going to for a new front brake line at next service. Thought that I might as well explore the Brembo option from CGT at the same time.

[FuelInjector]

Is it possible to change the stock tyres in Bullet 500 with tubeless ones?
Has anyone done that (especially with the three spoke or 4 spoke alloy type wheels)?

Apologies if this question has already been answered before (i tried searching but did not get a hit).

[The Great]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

Is it possible to change the stock tyres in Bullet 500 with tubeless ones?
Has anyone done that (especially with the three spoke or 4 spoke alloy type wheels)?

Apologies if this question has already been answered before (i tried searching but did not get a hit).

It is possible to do so only in alloy wheels.

I had changed my STD 350 ones to bigger sized IRC and Kings tyres, both tubeless ones.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by The Great

It is possible to do so only in alloy wheels.

I had changed my STD 350 ones to bigger sized IRC and Kings tyres, both tubeless ones.

Thanks "the great". When you say its possible to do so only in alloy wheels, do you mean the stock ones delivered by the dealer should have been alloys? Reason being the STD ones comes with spokes i reckon.

What was the approx cost for upgrading to tubeless ones? Which brand is preferred?

[B O V]

Originally Posted by outofthebox

Anyone know if the Brembo front disc brake setup of CGT can be deployed on the Classic 500

You should be able to retro-fit it with some minor modifications, after all the bybre kits are by-brembo. So there won't be any significant difference in design. Mounting points too look quite similar. Not sure if the larger disc might affect fitment in anyway.

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

Is it possible to change the stock tyres in Bullet 500 with tubeless ones?

Searched for the exact same thing last year while wondering what would happen if I were to suffer a high speed blowout.

http://www.advpulse.com/adv-products...spoked-wheels/

More of a DIY/hit and miss sorta thing.

Came across this , Plan to try these out on my old rims once I get a new set in.

[The Great]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

Thanks "the great". When you say its possible to do so only in alloy wheels, do you mean the stock ones delivered by the dealer should have been alloys? Reason being the STD ones comes with spokes i reckon.

What was the approx cost for upgrading to tubeless ones? Which brand is preferred?

All the current lineup from Royal Enfield stable come with spokes only. I never meant that the dealer should have given alloys.

The air would escape from the spoke holes, hence the alloys for tubeless tyres. The inner tube jugaad on the spoked rims does not work that efficiently. Or follow this link for an example of using tubeless tyres in spoked wheels - Tubeless Tyre jugaad on spoked wheels

Brand of tyres depends on person to persons liking.

[Abhishek3001]

Hi everyone, I have some questions about my classic 500-
1. My classic 500 is leaking fuel from the fuel filler cap.I know from reading this thread that it is normal for some fuel to leak through the key hole because that is where the breather is,but in my bike it seems to be leaking from all around the filler cap(ie the neck of the cap) when I leave it on the side stand.How can I fix it?

2. Is it normal to be able to hear the fuel pump whine at idle?

3. What is the purpose of having the choke?I mean as far as I know EFI engines don't need choke as they handle the mixture themselves.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Hi everyone, I have some questions about my classic 500-
1. My classic 500 is leaking fuel from the fuel filler cap.I know from reading this thread that it is normal for some fuel to leak through the key hole because that is where the breather is,but in my bike it seems to be leaking from all around the filler cap(ie the neck of the cap) when I leave it on the side stand.How can I fix it?

There is a rubber beading in my petrol tank cap. You might want to take a look at it.
How much fuel are you filling?
Could you try filling a little lesser as then the fuel will not really reach beyond the neck.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Hi everyone, I have some questions about my classic 500-
1. My classic 500 is leaking fuel from the fuel filler cap.I know from reading this thread that it is normal for some fuel to leak through the key hole because that is where the breather is,but in my bike it seems to be leaking from all around the filler cap(ie the neck of the cap) when I leave it on the side stand.How can I fix it?



2. Is it normal to be able to hear the fuel pump whine at idle?


3. What is the purpose of having the choke?I mean as far as I know EFI engines don't need choke as they handle the mixture themselves.

1. Some people have found large O-rings that can be placed under the lids flange. Sorry, I don't know which size they used.
The best solution is to leave 25 or so mm of air space between the top of the fuel and the cap when filling the tank.

2. Yes. Actually, the fuel pump runs most of the time while the engine is running.
As you know, fluids are not compressible and when the engine is running, fuel is constantly being injected into the engine.
About the only time the pump totally stops running for any period of time is the time between turning on the ignition and starting the engine.

3. The "choke" is called a "bi-Starter" by Royal Enfield and although it should be used when starting a cold engine, it does not work like a choke on a carburetor does.
It opens a small valve which allows fresh air to bypass the throttle plate, essentially the same as if you slightly cracked the throttle open a bit.
The increased airflow causes the engine to idle faster.
While this is happening, the manifold air pressure sensor (MAP) recognizes the extra air and causes the computer to increase the amount of fuel which is being injected into the engine.

The increase in the amount of fuel being injected results in a similar situation to the choke on a carburetor which serves to increase the amount of fuel entering the engine.

[SuperSlick]

Hi folks, as I don't want to open a separate thread, i'm posting this question here. Dear Mods, please move it to the right thread, if applicable.

Anyone from Chennai is going for REUNION South in Coorg next month (Aug 21-23)? I'm planning to ride to Coorg on my bull and would like to know if anyone else from T-BHP is also going from Chennai?

[drdeepudev]

Off late, I'm feeling a grinding sensation which is rhythmic on my right foot rest/ pedal when on the move and is evident when there is a pillion and when the thunder bird is accelerating. I'm almost sure its on the right side of the bike. What can be the probable causes.

Last week, there was squeal from swing arm when the bike hits pot holes and my mechanic has removed swing arm, greased it and refitted it. That time the chain, which was loose also was tightened. This particular grinding feeling started after this. When I reported back, he told its absolutely fine. Also, I noticed, there is a rubber bush like thing in the swing arm/ leg above which the chain passes and its almost lost denuding a bolt. I told the mechanic to replace that as well.

Since last 2 or 3 days, the swing arm squeal reappeared and I believe swing arm bush needs replacement.

The chain and sprocket is rather new ( 7600km) and my previous chain and sprocket lasted for 20500km.

We are planning to replace the swing arm bush this weekend and have to remove the rear wheel for that. What else should I check. I'm bit worried about that grinding sensation previously mentioned. Please opine.

OT: Any one felt the 2.75 ltr sump capacity in thunderbird is too much? Last time, I used 2.5ltr oil and new oil filter and gaskets showed leak. This time I was bit conscious and used only 2 ltr, and the oil level in the window is in mid point. My mechanic ( a new one also vouched for 2 ltr). I change the oil and oil filter every 3000km and use the company recommended liquid gun 15w50 oil.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by drdeepudev

Off late, I'm feeling a grinding sensation which is rhythmic on my right foot rest/ pedal when on the move and is evident when there is a pillion and when the thunder bird is accelerating. I'm almost sure its on the right side of the bike. What can be the probable causes.

Sounds like an overtightened chain. And I assume you are having a UCE Twinspark and not the old TB. Ask the mechanic to adjust the chain with you (and pillion if you frequently ride with pillion) sitting on the bike. Also, clean and lube the chain properly.

Regarding the leak from the oil filter: No, 2.5Ls oil is the correct amount and not 2Ls. And no, the gasket/ oil filter will not leak when 2.5Ls of oil is filled. Inspect the gaskets and the O ring of oil filter and replace if necessary.

[drdeepudev]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Sounds like an overtightened chain. And I assume you are having a UCE Twinspark and not the old TB.
Regarding the leak from the oil filter: No, 2.5Ls oil is the correct amount and not 2Ls. .

Yes its a UCE 2014 Thunderbird. Purchased OCT 2014 and has run close to 28000km till date. Yes, ill advice the mechanic to loosen the chain a bit.

Not only from the oil filter, but from the RHS case near the kick start lever and brakes. I've the remaining oil. So should I pour rest of the oil, I mean the remaining 500ml ?

What about that grinding feeling? Apart from chain, can anything else cause this, like rear wheel bearing or some thing? Since that swing arm squeal is still present, I'm planning to replace that bush. Also, the bike feels the rear suspension is not working even though the suspension is set to the softest setting. The whole pleasure of riding is dampened due to these complaints.

Also, the bike struggles to climb to 80kmph. Cruising at 70 is just fine though.

Thank you for the reply.