[ringoism]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Well, actually, both pushrod OHV and OHC engines don't care which way the cylinder is leaning and both can be used with valves that are perpendicular or at an angle to the cylinder.

All one has to do is to look at various automobiles to verify this.
My Miata (and the Alfa Romeo) has a upright double overhead cam engine as does my wifes Toyota V-6.

I will admit that the OHC motorcycle engine lends itself to having the cylinder at an angle relative to the ground.
The large cam gears or cam sprockets (with chain drive) take up quite a bit of room in the cylinder head and this can cause an interference with the fuel tank.
By tilting the cylinder forward or aft, the extra space required for the cam drive sprockets/gears can be provided without tank or frame interference.

This is absolutely the right answer here. No real relationship in an engineering sense between vertical/non-vertical engines and their valvegear.

Other examples: All the old American V-type engines all had angled cylinder banks with pushrod arrangements, and Chrysler "Hemi" V8's, in both the vintage and modern versions, also have angled valves with a pushrod arrangement - and there wasn't really anything "complex" about it.



With bikes, packaging and aesthetics have probably always been the main deciding factors when it comes to angling or not, and cost/power characteristics when it came to the pushrod vs. OHC arrangement - i.e., Harleys and Enfields as the low-revving torquer pushrod engines vs the high-revving Japanese machinery. A related point that is an engineering consideration is that it's tough (not impossible) to get more than 2-valves per cylinder into a pushrod engine.

Will be interesting to see which way Enfield has gone with it. My gut feeling is that they're going to remain on the conservative (not very innovative) side of things... but I heard probably a year ago from a company source that they were working on a new twin-cylinder mill for a large-displacement adventure bike, so we might be surprised in the end.

-Eric

[man_of_steel]

Regarding the point of mounting the engine at a forward angle, I guess the main intention is to bring the centre of gravity of the engine closer to the front tyre.

[vinit.merchant]

Originally Posted by outofthebox

If you intend to ride it only for a year, then I would recommend you to lease one. It would work out a lot cheaper than INR100k for the full year.

Well, the 100k will not be a total loss at the end of the year. He will still get money by selling the bullet.

Even a nominal lease of 300 per day will make the amount more than 100k in a year. And no one leases bullets at such low rates. I do not see how leasing will work out cheaper.

[Hammer & Anvil]

Bullets in New Delhi now rent for between 850-1100 depending on condition, 350/500, etc- so its best you buy a 2011-13 bike of which you will find dime a dozen- for about 1.10-1.25 and then resell it for anything above 75-80k.
So at the outer spread, also you will lose 45000/- (highly improbable) over 365 days- @123 INR/DAY.
Cant beat that math.

[Siddy]

Hi Guys,

Need you help.
Today morning hopped on my Bullet 500 (UCE carburetor) and hit the starter, the engine spins for like 2-3 times and then there was a loud bang. Like a big bomb during Diwali followed by big puffs from the exhaust (similar to the ones when your carburetor has something stuck). After this the engine died. I tried kicking and starting it again but the bike doesn't start. I mean the engine spins on the electric starter but no life. Battery is good. I could not visually see anything wrong. No smoke, no leaks.

What could have gone wrong?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Hi Guys,

Need you help.
Today morning hopped on my Bullet 500 (UCE carburetor) and hit the starter, the engine spins for like 2-3 times and then there was a loud bang. Like a big bomb during Diwali followed by big puffs from the exhaust (similar to the ones when your carburetor has something stuck). After this the engine died. I tried kicking and starting it again but the bike doesn't start. I mean the engine spins on the electric starter but no life. Battery is good. I could not visually see anything wrong. No smoke, no leaks.

What could have gone wrong?

Check for the rubber connecting the air filter to the carb for gaps or if it's slid off on one side. Advisable to fix a ring on it and tighten it so it doesn't slide off on kickbacks.

[Siddy]

Originally Posted by tharian

Check for the rubber connecting the air filter to the carb

Thanks tharian.
But in this case even if the hose has slipped off the bike should start at least right? I mean there still is air available for suction.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Thanks tharian.
But in this case even if the hose has slipped off the bike should start at least right? I mean there still is air available for suction.

My thoughts would be that the mixture will end up being very lean for the bike to start due to the excess air being sucked in .

Also, I am not sure if the new UCE models crankcase vent pipe ends in the air filter box. You could check if the filter is covered with oil. Used to be a known issue on the older AVL engines.

[Siddy]

I think i found the issue, the hose connecting the carburetor to the intake has got loose. The clip is moving as well. Thanks for the help tharian!

[B O V]

I'm thinking of gettin a cast iron 500 to keep my 83 CI 350 company, can anyone tell me what to look out for with the 500's?

Which parts might be hard to get and other such details would be extremely helpful.

Regards,

BOV

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by B O V

I'm thinking of gettin a cast iron 500 to keep my 83 CI 350 company, can anyone tell me what to look out for with the 500's?

Which parts might be hard to get and other such details would be extremely helpful.

Regards,

BOV

CI 500's all engine related OE parts are hard to come by, though there are a lot of "decent" quality Sardarji (made in Punjab) spares available, including 500 cc heads with twin exhausts.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by B O V

I'm thinking of gettin a cast iron 500 to keep my 83 CI 350 company, can anyone tell me what to look out for with the 500's?

Which parts might be hard to get and other such details would be extremely helpful.

Regards,

BOV

From my 8 years with a CI 500, my one and only complaint was the overheating issue on long trips. Can't do much there as it is a known issue with 500's and 535's.

Other points;
- big end bearing is prone to wear and replacement, if not replaced already
-piston rings
-piston slap on cold start
-check for the 110 main jet(stock)
-original air filter box since it is bigger than the 350's and has a closed bottom with a small gap on the inside face of the box for intake.

Rings and bearing I suppose it not much of a problem to get, but the bore and piston may be.

Rest are more or less the same as the 350.

I'll stop before I start missing my 500

[B O V]

Originally Posted by jeeva

CI 500's all engine related OE parts are hard to come by

Its mainly the parts inside the engine for the obvious rebuild and whether it will be easy to procure parts with reasonably good quality, that I'm concerned about.

Thanks

Originally Posted by tharian

From my 8 years with a CI 500, my one and only complaint was the overheat, I'll stop before I start missing my 500

That good huh

Overheating ? does that mean it can't be ridden hard?

I've put some feelers out for a 500. well to put it simply, the folks that do have 500's here are unwilling to part with them. I essentially only need it to have a good frame and a sound motor.

Thanks,

BOV

[FuelInjector]

Hi Bike gurus - can you please help me out with this query? i had posted it in another thread. apologies for doing that. did not want to create a duplicate post, hence pasting the link here. Please help.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ml#post3754249

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

..can you please help me out with this query? i had posted it in another thread. apologies for doing that. did not want to create a duplicate post, hence pasting the link here. Please help.


* Silencer has been changed - Can someone tell what kind of silencer is this?

The one in the pic is a GoldStar replica exhaust.

* Seat has been changed - Very comfortable compared to the stock ones.

That is the first generation ThunderBird's seat.

* Self Start not working

Might be a battery, starter or starter relay issue.

* Front breaking is poor. INfact i thought the discs were not breaking at all. The breaking distance at 40kmph was like 2 meteres are full depression of break.

Problem might range from simple issue of air in the system to a busted master cylinder.

* can someone find from the photo if the engine has been opened?

Can't make out from the pics. If you can see some dried up paste like stuff along the joints of various parts, you can assume that the engine is opened. That dried up paste is a sealant commonly used by mechanics.

* the swing arm balancing was incorrect. it was on the fourth ridge on the left aide (sitting facing the rear tyre facing the tail light) and 5th on the right side. what does this mean?

Quite common for bikes with this swingarm (Including the classics). On riding, check if the bike runs straight if you take off your hands of the handlebar at a safe speed.

* Minor things like - small dents on fuel tank, the chrome on the head lamp, Intigator light on left not working, brake switch for rear tail lamp doesnt have the connecting spring from the break pedal, rear foot rest is not there.

Had started with 75K, as i think i would need to spend atleast 10K on this. The seller is asking 85K.

Bottomline: There is no way one can justify a 85K pricetag for this ill maintained contraption! He is trying to sell you the brand and not the bike.