[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by adrian

@bulletboy76

Instead of going for costly shortcuts, it would be better to find some time to drain the excess oil out of your bullet so that your machine stays healthy and air contamination is also avoided to a great extend.

Here! Here!

The pressing need at the moment is to remove the excess oil so that it is at the proper level and to replace the air filter. (Wiping all traces of oil out of the air filter plenum goes without saying.)

As for diverting the crankcase vent from the airbox and directing it towards the chain, if the engine has the correct oil level, nothing will ever come out of the vent hose so the chain will go unlubricated (not a good thing).

As for fixing the overfilled oil problem, I would return to the shop that overfilled it. Show them the results of their error (including the damaged air filter) and demand that they drain the oil to the correct level and replace the damaged air filter AT NO CHARGE.
After all, the problem and resulting damage was their fault so they should accept the cost of repairing it.

As a sidenote, in 4 years of ownership and over 28,000 km of riding at speeds normally ranging from 65 to 113 kmph I have never seen oil in the air filter plenum on my motorcycle.

In fact, about a month ago I replaced the aging black vent hose with a transparent vinyl hose.

Expecting to see at least some trace of oil in it after riding over 450 km I was pleased to see absolutely none at all. (Yes, the vent is open).

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Here is what i have found on Exide's website

Battery Type-12BI14L-A2
Part Number-FBI0-12BI14L-A2
http://www.exidereachout.com/products/exide-bikerz.aspx

is this what is shipped by RE ?

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Looks like the same. For some reason the warranty card show it as DBI0-12BI14L-A2. The rest is the same.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Gentlemen as I said I am aware of just one manufacturer in India who makes 12V 14AH battery and that is Exide. Apparently SF Sonic battery is also owned by Exide India. So now you know why this battery is exclusively manufactured and distributed by Exide. I have done a lot of research on this and Exide seems to be the only option as of now.

I am not sure if we can use 12V 9AH or 20AH battery. Although latter capacity would require modification to the battery compartment. Experts please pitch in with your comments/suggestions.

Originally Posted by J.Ravi

.

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

.

Here is what transpired over the last 4 days
1.the rectifier wire going to the battery terminal was burnt , it also damaged the internal plastic cladding of the rear wheel slightly
2.RE service center said this is because the wiring has touched the body someplace
3.they kept the bike for 2 days to check the wiring and tape the appropriate areas
4.they informed me that the socket which connects the battery and the rectifier does not come separately and as such i need to replace the whole wiring kit costing Rs 7000, however they can do some "jugged" and fix the wiring for now and in case i see the issue again i should replace the wiring harness
5.they also informed me that the battery needs replacement, mine was some cheap brand it seems (white in color)
6.got the rectifier and wiring fixed from them for Rs 1700
7.the battery they were offering was Amaron 12v 14 amps for Rs 3000 and Rs 700 for the clamp which they claim needs to be installed which was very costly in my opinion
8.i was able to find a better deal for the battery with Exide 12BI14L-A2 for Rs 2500 ( and i already has the clamp in my bike :-))
9.after replacing the battery when we checked the same was not charging while running the bike, so again visited the Service center and they identified the issue as a blown fuse which when replaced , the battery charging started working

so far the bike is trouble free and the engine crank at self start sound sweet

Few observations of the RE Service Center at wakdewadi pune
1.the service advisers are knowledgeable
2.the same cannot be said for the floor engineers
3.they have a good workshop with proper tools and a well maintained inventory store
4.the service is not confidence inspiring at all and it seems we are in a government office, nothing moves unless you push the service advisors

overall I would not give them my bike for servicing but only for critical OEM parts requirements.

I would still prefer giving my bike to Kunal , he and his team offer professional quality service though at a slightly higher price point but I know that my bike is in good hands and the work is genuine.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/members/motocamp.html

http://www.kbw.co.in/
+(91)-20-65619536, +(91)-9881341144 | more... Shop No 6 Shraddha Terrace, Viman Nagar, Pune - 411014, Nr Corporation Bank Sakore Nagar

[raghu.t.k]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Here is what transpired over the last 4 days
1.the rectifier wire going to the battery terminal was burnt , it also damaged the internal plastic cladding of the rear wheel slightly
.....
4.they informed me that the socket which connects the battery and the rectifier does not come separately and as such i need to replace the whole wiring kit costing Rs 7000, however they can do some "jugged" and fix the wiring for now and in case i see the issue again i should replace the wiring harness
....

Did you find the area where the wire came in contact with the body ? Unless we know that we might have the same problem again.

With regards to Amaron 14AH, do you have the part number ?

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Here is what i have found on Exide's website

Battery Type-12BI14L-A2
Part Number-FBI0-12BI14L-A2
http://www.exidereachout.com/products/exide-bikerz.aspx

is this what is shipped by RE ?

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Looks like the same. For some reason the warranty card show it as DBI0-12BI14L-A2. The rest is the same.

Originally Posted by raghu.t.k

Did you find the area where the wire came in contact with the body ? Unless we know that we might have the same problem again.

With regards to Amaron 14AH, do you have the part number ?

Hi raghu.t.k,

I asked the same thing to the RE service guys and was informed and showed that they have taped the parts where there is probability of the wiring harness touching the body , that is all to it, if and when the issue reoccurs I will need to replace the wiring harness.

they were unwilling to show me the Amaron Battery, will try to get the part number next time i visit them.

[saargoga]

I have been very unhappy with my c500, at 14.5k kms I had to replace the cylinder head and barrel, now after about 10 k the white smoke occasionally comes out of exhaust, I had a chat with service center guys and they told me it could be due to play in the crankshaft(and thus cause of the cylinder head problems, for that they will need to open it up and if there is a problem they will have to replace that along with the new cylinder head and barrel. I have 2011 c500 with original upsweft that was attached after 3500kms. with no other modifications. can any expert help me figure out the problem.

[Hammer & Anvil]

Originally Posted by saargoga

now after about 10 k the white smoke occasionally comes...

The piston rings are mostly shot- unfortunate.
The oil soaked piston is coming up to burn oil with petrol and therefore the white smoke.
If your oil level is consistently going down thats another sign right there.

I will be watching the thread to see if anything else comes up. Do keep us informed.

[saargoga]

Originally Posted by Hammer & Anvil

The piston rings are mostly shot- unfortunate.
The oil soaked piston is coming up to burn oil with petrol and therefore the white smoke.
If your oil level is consistently going down thats another sign right there.

I will be watching the thread to see if anything else comes up. Do keep us informed.

Thanks for replying. I will correct myself it's not cylinder head but the piston and the piston barrel that was replaced.

This is the second time I observed the white smoke a couple of months back I saw it too it was more pronounced back then but after thatI gave it to service without knowing this as a problem.

Thanks I will go and do a good checkup keeping this in mind.

[moshel]

Hi

I have a Thunderbird 2010 model. Off late I have noticed a weird problem. When I don't use the bike for 1or 2 days, the front tyre gets jammed and manually pushing the bike front and back out of the parking becomes a pain. It gets slowly better once the bike gets moving.

Couple of weeks back the bike was lying at home for a week. After that when I tried to move it manually, it was impossible. The tyre was completely jammed. I started the engine and it started moving and I could feel that the front tyre was stuck and there was extra pressure on the engine to move it.

Any ideas why this is happening and what can be done? In December I had replaced the front brake pads.

Thanks,
Moshel

[ArizonaJim]

This sounds like another case of having too much brake fluid in the mastercylinder/brake system.

I'm beginning to suspect there is a, "If almost full is good, totally full is better." mindset on that part of some mechanics.

The fluid reservoir which is a part of the right hand handlebar brake lever/mastercylinder is not meant to be totally full. There should be a small amount of air space between the top of the fluid and the underside of the rubber seal that keeps the fluid in the reservoir
.
This air space is needed to prevent constant pressure in the hydraulic system.

If you feel like your up to it, find the brake bleed valve on the wheel cylinder.
It is located on the rear of the caliper, outboard in plain sight.
It has a rubber cap on it to prevent dirt or water from entering the valve.

Using a 8mm box end wrench (8mm closed end spanner), turn the valve counterclockwise 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn.

With the valve slightly opened, have someone squeeze the right hand front brake lever and hold it in the "applied" position. It is important that they don't "apply and release" the lever to "pump the brakes". If they release the lever with the bleed valve open, it will suck air into the hydraulic system which can cause it to fail.

Brake fluid should come out of the end of the valve. If it doesn't, open the valve a bit more until it does.
While the fluid is being forced out of the system, the brake lever will move toward the handlebar grip. This is normal.

While they are holding the lever in the applied position, retighten the bleed valve. Once the valve has been tightened, the brake lever may be released.

The hydraulic brake system will now have enough air space above the fluid to prevent the "lock up" your brake is having.

Be very careful not to allow any of the brake fluid to get on any of the painted surfaces on your motorcycle. It will totally ruin the paint.
(The master cylinder body is black anodized so the fluid won't harm it).

Of course, the other option is to ask your trustworthy mechanic to do this job but be sure to tell him, "The system does not need to be totally bled. It only needs the excess fluid removed so it is not pressurized all of the time."

Ride safe.

[Nilay]

Originally Posted by ringoism

Engine: I suspect it to be all-new as rumoured, as the sound is really nothing at all like any other Enfield, striking me as much more refined and free-revving, with no mechanical clatter.

Hi, Eric
Thanks for input.
There may be OHC (Over head Valve Cam) setup for this engine as far as sound is concerned but from images attached in this thread, One careful observation indicates vertical straight cylinder bore and head unit like Pushrod (OHV) engine. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki they all have OHC setup (125cc to 150cc) with slightly inclined cylinder bore and head unit. So its very confusing that this engine have OHC or OHV setup for rumored 400cc capacity.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Nilay

One careful observation indicates vertical straight cylinder bore and head unit like Pushrod (OHV) engine. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki they all have OHC setup (125cc to 150cc) with slightly inclined cylinder bore and head unit. So its very confusing that this engine have OHC or OHV setup for rumored 400cc capacity.

You lost me there. What does a cylinder's banking have to do with its valvetrain configuration?

[Nilay]

A typical Pushroad and rocker arrangement shown in figure. This arrangement is suitable for Overhead valve engines where all valves are arrange in line along the length of the cylinder head, with valve set vertically

For those Overhead valve engines where the valves are arranged at a angles or inclined, a different and more complex arrangement of pushroads and rockers is required. For engine where valves are inclined, it is usually preferred to use an over head camshaft arrangement.

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Nilay

A typical Pushroad and rocker arrangement shown in figure. This arrangement is suitable for Overhead valve engines where all valves are arrange in line along the length of the cylinder head, with valve set vertically

For those Overhead valve engines where the valves are arranged at a angles or inclined, a different and more complex arrangement of pushroads and rockers is required. For engine where valves are inclined, it is usually preferred to use an over head camshaft arrangement.

Uhh.. Again, lost me. The UCE does not have vertically placed valves.



Also, each banked cylinders of a typical Harley engine has pushrods. What I would like to know more is about your mentioning that OHC setup does not favor a vertically mounted engine bore?

One careful observation indicates vertical straight cylinder bore and head unit like Pushrod (OHV) engine. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki they all have OHC setup (125cc to 150cc) with slightly inclined cylinder bore and head unit. So its very confusing that this engine have OHC or OHV setup for rumored 400cc capacity.

[Nilay]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Uhh.. Again, lost me. The UCE does not have vertically placed valves.

Nope, But i never seen any OHC setup engine which is vertically straight setup of barrel and head. Also UCE engine has inclined valve setup but their Pushroad is straight. The reason behind that is pushroad has lots of upward and downward movement which results in tension and compression load acting on bars. So manufacturer with inline or single setup may preferred straight setup.

[ArizonaJim]

Well, actually, both pushrod OHV and OHC engines don't care which way the cylinder is leaning and both can be used with valves that are perpendicular or at an angle to the cylinder.

All one has to do is to look at various automobiles to verify this.
My Miata (and the Alfa Romeo) has a upright double overhead cam engine as does my wifes Toyota V-6.

I will admit that the OHC motorcycle engine lends itself to having the cylinder at an angle relative to the ground.
The large cam gears or cam sprockets (with chain drive) take up quite a bit of room in the cylinder head and this can cause an interference with the fuel tank.
By tilting the cylinder forward or aft, the extra space required for the cam drive sprockets/gears can be provided without tank or frame interference.

As with everything, there are exceptions. My old Honda 400-4F was a vertical cylinder engine with a single overhead cam. The designers got around the extra space requirements for the cam drive by locating it so it was centered between the two cylinders on either side of it. This placed it under the frame, between the two lower halves of the fuel tank.