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-   -   The Yamaha 'RX' Thread (with pics) (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/41553-yamaha-rx-thread-pics-52.html)

Hi Guys,

Does anyone has any idea on where to buy/order parts for the Yamaha Rx series in Singapore. I would be traveling to Singapore in April this year and I want to buy an RX king cylinder and piston kit.

Remembering the lock-down days, riding on mossy wet road.




Plug Chop


Piston Chop

After the 'scrappage policy' was announced, I'm seeing prices on old Yamahas going soft. In fact, our maid's husband just picked up a 1991 model. One guy has sent his bike out of Bangalore, to a 'tier 2' town where his grandfather has some land. Will be sad to see old classics bite the dust.

Picked up a well-maintained 2000 RX 135 4 speed. Changed tires, battery, seats along with a general service. As per the mechanic, the engine and the general bike condition is in great nick.

I have the following queries for experienced riders out here.

1. The bike is currently using the oil pump (The reservoir) for lubrication. How can I know that the oil pump is working properly. I have heard about adding 2T oil directly along with fuel. Is it a safer method than oil lubrication via pump?

2. Which 2T oil brand is better?

3. There are vibrations on footpegs and handlebars post 70 kmph. Is it normal?

4. The current handlebar is placed low and rubs against my knees at full lock. Any upgrades to that? I am comfortable with the low-hung handlebar but if this is the best setup, I can live with it.

5. How do I improve the light setup. The previous owner has installed a cut-out for the horns. Can that be used for the light upgrade?

Congratulations!! :)
Safer would be add oil to fuel in tank. Otherwise the usual test is to check for smoke once you start the bike.


I've been using the regular Castrol one we get at petrol pumps

Some vibrations are present. Is it excessive?

It looks like a stock handle bar to me. Usually on full lock you would have your foot down - if it is still touching your knees probably try moto-cross style handlebar.

[/quote]
Best way is to get better dynamo. I've not bothered to change that setup on my bike.

Congratulations :thumbs up

Keep the engine running and remove the oil-pump tube on the right side of Carburetor. Oil should ooze out if the pump is working.

Check if the vibrations are with respective to speed or engine rpm. If it is the later, check and tighten the foot rest bolts. If they vibrate at higher speed, tires could be a contributor.

Lift the current handle bars. If that couldn't help look for wider / taller after market options

Check the lighting coil output with auto electrician.
If they are good, upgrading the reflector & bulb (H4 type) will improve marginally. Otherwise upgrade to 100/90W coil with matching regulator.

So my bike has crossed the 20 year mark and was due for a good overhaul.

The chassis was cracked at the neck last year, probably because of the front brakes. It was in cold storage since and then decided to revive it now.

I had also decided to put together a new engine from the spares I had lying around. I went around and managed to pick a big bore 165 setup with wiseco pistons, new RXK crank, new 5 speed gearbox, VF3 reeds and more.



Sometime later the new engine was assembled.



So I now have two big bore 165cc 5 speed engines



The neck is now beefed up with a tapered roller bearing conversion. The bearings used are bigger than what the himalayan has, talk about overkill.



A new front end consisting of pulsar 220 parts with a 320mm rotor, R1 4 pot calipers with EBC HH pads was added to compliment the chassis upgrade.



Wiring loom was modified with adding relays for horn and a possible LED headlight conversion, Shogun RR conversion, addition of tacho support, kill switch and others.



Final end result

Wow @Sunnyboi that's a fantastic rebuild! How's the big bore set up performing? And those 320mm rotors look massive.

Superbly done mate, bike looks brilliant. I prefer the stock looks and the front mud guard is a bit of an eyesore - any reasons why you didn't go with the stock mudguard?

Also, where do you source your parts from? Here in Pune, I am not too happy with the quality of the parts that I am getting.

It's the same situation in Mumbai as well. People are quoting absurd prices. If anyone knows a good dealer in Mumbai, leads would be appreciated.

Hey long time! The bike looks so badass great job. Is the front mudguard a different shade or was it the lighting?

Brilliantly executed work. I have the same issue with my 5speed cracking exactly at the same spot. Got welded it. Now my list of queries. What is the o.d.of the pulsar forks 33/35 mm?. Please give me no.s of taper bearings you have used. If I am right you have used the hub of avenger. The rear shocks look bit long. Do they give a comfortable ride? From which bike they are sourced from? Is there any change in wheel base. Personally I feel increasing wheelbase to 1300mm gives Rx a good high speed characteristics sacrificing the flick ability factor.

I have sent you a PM, I had some questions on the big bore conversion, would be great if you could give me a few pointers.

Pramod

Hey can you share the images or PDF of RXZ 4s Manual. I've been searching for years for that.

RX100 1990. Bought as used in 1998 and in the family since then. Latest restoration in July, 2019.