Team-BHP - The Yamaha 'RX' Thread (with pics)

I am in the process of restoring my RX135. First is the engine. It should be done today. Next is painting, battery and new tyres. Will post the pics when it is done which would take some time. :Frustrati

I need a hike. or Bike restoration allowance. please:

Got it done. Costed me 3.3k. And another 750 for a new battery. Any idea about run in? Mechanic asked me to run at 40kmph for 1k which is really very difficult. Now, need to get it painted and new footwear.

Even my engine was redone, and I'm running it between 40-50kmph for 1000km, completed only abt 500kms, I know its difficult but I'm willing to wait, don't want to screw up the engine.

Running in means one should not be over revving the bike in each of the gears, it has nothing to do with speed i.e if i am crusing at 60 km/hr but not over revving the bike. its safe. Over revving puts pressure on the newly assembled kit, hence its not recommended untill all the engine parts are well used to the beating they are suppose to handle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by invincible7 (Post 900419)

Running in means one should not be over revving the bike in each of the gears, it has nothing to do with speed i.e if i am crusing at 60 km/hr but not over revving the bike. its safe. Over revving puts pressure on the newly assembled kit, hence its not recommended untill all the engine parts are well used to the beating they are suppose to handle.

Please tell me what over-revving means?
I really want to know- not joking. :)

Will cruising at 60 kmph in 3rd gear of any RX be over-revving?
And will it damage my bike- especially while running-in the bike. :(

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIKeINSTEIN (Post 902002)

The crankshaft undergoes more rotations per minute that the rotations of the driving wheel (rear wheel in case of the RX 100/135). This is when the engine becomes noisy and had there been a tachometer on the instrument console the rpm would have been near or within the redline.
Proper engagement of gears at the proper engine rpm negates the chances of over-revving.

Dec 1997
48572 Kms
Stock

Some interesting facts :

-Has never broken down.
-Has not changed the clutch till now.
-Nothing major has been changed (other than consumables like, brake shoes, battery, bulbs, rpm cable 3times grr.., clutch cable, tyres)
-Original paint, chrome
-still gives around 35-40 (approx)
-Oil pump still works
-Chrome has very minimal rusting (even though now bike is in chennai)
-still touches an indicated 95km/hr (as on odo)

Future plans

-repaint the frame
-try and get a front visor/fairing (broke the old one in a freak accident)
-fit the air scoop thingy at the bottom (I have it somewhere)
-Fit a disk brake
-put a layer of clear on the paint.
-change anything that needs to be changed.
-take it out on Sundays, I'd like to use it everyday except for (hot climate, cops who are out to get you -> NOC,RC, this that and if all is well 100-200)

Guys, I'd like to hear what 2T oil everyone has used and which one you rate the best so far. The two best I have used so far have been Castrol Jettx(difficult to find)and ESSO synthetic blend which only one dealer near my place had and is out of stock now. Jettx now costs 200 and the ESSO was for 180.

You've maintained it well yzfrj, needs a washing though.

Yes, a 2T rating would be helpful. And I'm confused by the terms.

For me,
2T = Oil used along with petrol
Engine Oil = Filled in the engine, is it also called gear oil ?

Over revving means when one is over shooting from the recommended rpm ranges while changing gears. It can also be said as going above the redlining of rpm ranges in each gear. While doing so one is over stressing the engine in each gear and thus contributing towards engine tear down when the engine is newly rebuild.

So if one is changing gears well before the redlining mark for each gears one is not overstressing the engine in any ways. Hence if you are at 20 or 60 it wont make much of a difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shakensoul (Post 904123)

The "engine oil" is the 2T oil. The one that you fill near the engine is actually the "gearbox oil" and has nothing to do with the engine.