Team-BHP - Is break-in really required for modern bikes?

I've seen a similar post on TeamBHP, but it was made in 2012. Since then, bikes have become much more modern, and precision in manufacturing has significantly improved. Is it still necessary to religiously break in your motorcycle? Dealers typically recommend that new owners should not take their bike above 60 km/h, and the service manual provides an RPM range above which the bike shouldn't be ridden during the run-in period. Here is what Royal Enfield says about the 650 twins:

Is break-in really required for modern bikes?-screenshot-20240625-111317.png

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Should you really follow these guidelines until 2000 km? For many occasional riders, 2000 km might take 6 months or even a year to cover. Is it really necessary to break in your motorcycle with this much care? Please share your experience.

Short answer : Yes, stick to what is recommended in the owners manual (ignore what the sales person tells you if it is different from what is in the manual)

Long answer : Actually a personal choice. But I always go by the understanding that a motorcycle manufacturer and engineers who make the engine know much more about the engine and it's maintenance and longevity than myself. So what is suggested in the manual, I stick to it. In your example of RE 650 twins, these don't revv too high. 4000 rpm and 6000 rpm should translate to speeds of 100 kmph and 120 kmph respectively at those rpms (on top gear). Now ask yourself. Is it so difficult to remain at or below those speeds for 500 kms / 2000 kms ? Maybe it is difficult because it's such a great bike and you want to enjoy full power right from the delivery. But again, owner manual recommendation is for a reason and we should respect that.

In future well post run in period, if you get any engine problems, you shouldn't feel regret thinking "maybe I should have run-in better in line with the manual recommendation" right ? So going by simple logic and also for better peace of mind in long run, just stick to the run in procedure recommended in the manual.

I always stick to the recommendation of the manufacturers. It is for a reason that these recommendations are made. All the moving parts in an engine, even if they are precision engineered, require a period of time,under optimal working conditions,to "bed-in",so to speak. Harsh motoring will damage the engine.

I vividly remember riding my TVS 50 AT 30 kmph for the first 500 kms. Later on with my Silver-plus,Rx-100, Apache 150, Interceptor 650, Maruti 800, Esteem, Hyundai Accent,Tata Harrier and Thar,I did the same.

All these vehicles provided and still provide riding and driving pleasure because I stuck to these recommendations religiously. Atleast,I think so.

Cheers

It is important to take things slow initially. And what manufacturers recommend in this case is something that people, including beginners, can follow without any ambiguity.

It is important to take things slow initially, not just for the engine, it also gives time for you to get used to the limits of the motorcycle, however experienced you might be.

But as enthusiasts, we should go a level further

Shouldn't the engine run-in be linked to time the engine operates?

What is magical about 60 kmph? Shouldn't it be mentioned in terms of engine parameters? example - RPM, Engine temperature?

Now with so much sophisticated Engine ECU software logics, can't the required style of riding be parameterized to an estimated initial duration within the ECU?

Do we assume that all OEMs have the same knowhow about making long lasting durable engines?

Who is the intended target consumer of the said motorcycle? Beginners? Advanced?

Does long rides affect engine alloys differently than short rides? in terms of duration the engine remains heated.

What about the load the engine is pulling in run-in period? Solo rider vs Pillion and Luggage?

Flat roads vs hilly climbs?

Once we realize the vast variety of use and abuse that the bike could potentially be put through, right out of the showroom, manufacturers have no other choice than to put things in the manual.

But for practical purposes : accelerate slowly, limit revs to medium, don't lug the engine around - shift up and down on time, try riding solo and on open roads, keep rides short or take breaks so that the components get a chance to cool down frequently. That is a good run-in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by V0rtex (Post 5792337)

For many occasional riders, 2000 km might take 6 months or even a year to cover.

They need to find more excuses to take their beloved motorcycles out.

I have heard that Modern motorcycle engines do not require breaking in as much as their older counterparts.

However, It is still advisable to go slow initially and follow the instructions mentioned in the owner’s manual.

Being careful while logging kilometers before a motorcycle’s first service will ensure the engine's health. Follow the guidelines suggested by the manufacturer while using your motorcycles for its thousand kilometers.

Do not rip the motor in its early days and keep the engine speed below the prescribed limits. Once the engine and transmission have correctly settled in, you can let the tachometer needle swing its way higher up the rev range.

It's a bit inconvenient to ride slow when the road permits better speed and you could invite some looks of disdain from other riders. However, it's better to stick to the manufacturer's recommendations in these matters.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aargee (Post 5792443)

Two irrefutable reasons I can think off are:
1. Precision fit of piston rings within the cylinder
2. Gradual exposure of engine components to varying temperatures

Have you had the opportunity to see an old school Bullet mechanic rebuild a Bullet engine, or even top end? On first start up, he will increase the carb fuelling and idling, and rev the hell out of the bike. A brand new top end! Those engines run beautifully. Never smoke. Never drink oil.

Cheers, Doc

Adhering to manufacturer Run In guidelines is very important. I believe we should follow them but ensure the new vehicle is put through different conditions (Day/Night driving, Potholes, Planned and Unplanned Braking, varying speeds) to effectively allow different components to bed in.

I always ensure I am gentle on the Throttle/Clutch/Brakes of any new vehicle I purchase. I don't baby them but remain Gentle till the Manufacturers Recommended duration/distance is reached. Others conditions I suggested will eventually happen with our Traffic conditions and peoples Road sense. It is more to do for the Love of my vehicles than what someone may suggest.

Even if the Manufacturer says Rip it I wont.

A bit of a left field opinion from an engineering perspective. Most engines are 'Run-In' from the factory already. And the red-line is usually less than the actual limit of the engine. So the break in requirements are not very essential.

However, from a driving perspective, breaking in is quite important. You get time to understand the machine better, its behavior and its characteristics. Since a new vehicle is certainly different from your existing vehicle, understanding every aspect of it becomes paramount.

The magical 60 or 80 or 120 Km/h limit is precisely for that reason. So that people don't go above the limits (albeit self imposed) and get to know better.

As far as I know, only tyres and brakes need to be broken in, as the grip of the tyres and the bite of the brakes improve with a bit of wear.

A great discussion incorporating both ends of the spectrum in terms of breaking in a new engine/vehicle.

I believe the most important part about breaking in which I personally vouch for and was mentioned in the MC Garage video posted above by ShyamG was mentioned at around 6 min mark in the video. It is not just the engine that is being broken-in. It is all the components of the vehicle, be it the engine, the brakes or even the suspension. Plus it is the driver who is getting used to a new vehicle. Better to give time to man and machine to learn to work together. Also, if there is some issue with any component of the car, it is advisable and prudent to wait for it to show up at low speeds and gentle loading. You would not want to be at high speeds when anything fails.

Regarding the old school engine rebuilds being finalized with high fueling and idling, I remember having my old Bajaj Priya top half rebuild. The first time around when I was a little kid in 3rd or 4th standard, the scooter was left to idle in one corner of our house at a higher than normal idling. It smoked like crazy for 1-2 hours and slowly the smoke came down. If I recall correctly the scooter was idled for several hours over two days, before starting to ride it.

The second time around more than a decade after this, the engine was not idled for more than an hour. Just the 2T oil was doubled or tripled, Idle set moderately high and I was asked to ride it gently for a week. No standing idling away for hours on end, given that this was post the gulf crisis and petrol was shockingly expensive (for that time).

Regardless of the advances made in metallurgy and machining, parts still need to bed in. However, people are not so bothered about the longevity of their cars and engines as they were earlier. Average age of ownership for a car in India has come down to 4 years in 2021-22 from 6 years in 2011-12 and is expected to come down further to 3.5 years by 2026-27. You would not bother caring for a car that was going to be in your garage for a couple of years, rather than a couple of decades. https://www.livemint.com/news/india/...849611009.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by blogslogger (Post 5792958)

I do not believe this to be correct. Engines are tested, same as they were earlier, but they are not "run-in" or "broken-in". Numerous forums have this information. It is true that the engines are made to tighter tolerances and with better materials, so they are more likely to be able to weather abuse. Having said that, please be gentle on your new vehicles, rebuild engines. It is just prudent. 1000 KM is not much in today's day and age. In Delhi NCR, if you are taking your car to office, it is just 10 days of driving or less.

Break-in is the process where the machine components bed-in with each other building the required contact patches for bearing the mechanical loads.

A microscopic view of the surface of machined components will show irregularities, which reduces the area of contact between the two surfaces.

For example, the piston rings run on the liner surfaces making a sealing purely dependent on the nature of surface. If there are too many irregularities on the liner surfaces and the piston ring, it will affect the lubrication and hence quick wear out of the piston ring and liner.

All the gears transfer loads, and a point contact between the two gear teeth will build up high stresses, running in allows the buildup of contact patches for better load distribution.

Since running in is done at lower loads, slowly increasing the load to maximum over a period of time, this helps the machine components to build camaraderie amongst them self and they work as a team sharing the workload as per their design.
This helps to have smooth operation and longevity of the equipment.

An engine might have been tested in the workshop but that is never a full load test, and in case of automobiles, there are other components which are equally important.

In case of automobiles, the only concern which I have is that, the drivers of the dealers drive the vehicles and I have seen many a times how they abuse the new vehicles while transporting them from yard to workshop and then from workshop to showroom.

In the above scenario there might be a minor defect developed which might not show during the warranty period.

My opinion is that try to get a car with minimum Kms on the odo, ask for flat bed transport if possible, and stick to makers recommendations for running in.

Cheers