[khan_sultan]

Tubeless conversion using TUBE FLAP.

I will eventually buy the tubeless rims when they are available and till then the tubeless conversion was one of the things to be done.

Options considered were way2speed, outex, and simple formula-X type sealant in the tube. Somehow stumbled upon the tubeless conversion using a tube flap inside and it looked simple and promising enough.
I thought of giving it a try for the reason that it seemed a simple enough job, the least time involved, and most cost-effective with a worst-case scenario will only mean losing a set of tubes.

The difficult part was getting hold of a shop/mechanic who could do this with some skills (as no one these days likes working on tube-setup motorcycle tires) and finally managing a HIGH FOOTFALL puncture shop as the skill of dismantling & putting back the tire/tube is the most important skill needed here.

For the rear, the Avenger 15-inch tube (130/90-15) works best, and for the front, the stock-size rear tube works (a 1 or 2 smaller size is helpful as the tube will be a tight fit and that is very helpful). Got tire sealant also added finally for supposedly extra peace of mind if a puncture happens.

Here are some of the pictures of this work:

The tyre being removed:


The tube is being put on the rim.


The tube is carefully cut at the center


The cut tube is made into a flap that covers the rim


The tube is lubricated with shampoo/tire solution


The tire is now being put over this flap, ensuring that a portion of the flap juts out.


This is the most complex part and the one where the skills of the person come into play. You use the iron tire lever incorrectly and it can damage the tube flap.


Eventually, the tire is on the rim...


...and the flap juts out on both sides.


Adding tire sealant for added peace of mind!


Finally, the extra portion of the tube flap is cut, ensuring that a very small portion remains outside.


The same procedure is used for the front.

I think one precaution to take would be to ensure that the tire pressure does NOT FALL DRASTICALLY and may need checks till one is comfortable with the setup. Let's see. For now, have overinflated the tires by 2 psi on both.

If one needs to "replace" the tire, then obviously, this whole exercise will need to be done again. Essentially, any time a tire needs to come off the rim, this exercise would be needed again.

Summary: Is it the best option? Maybe not. But for sure is quick and cost-effective. To get back to tube type is just a matter of putting the tube back!
Will ride for a few weeks and observe how the air holds up and look out for any leaks/pressure drops.

Total Cost: 500 for Avenger tube + 850 for the tyre sealant + 750 labor charges

[Nilesh5417]

Originally Posted by khan_sultan

Tubeless conversion using TUBE FLAP.

So same tyre installed back with original tube? Wasn't very clear to me hence asking.

[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by Nilesh5417

So same tyre installed back with original tube? Wasn't very clear to me hence asking.

Yes, same tyres but no tube inside now to fill air

The tubes that were cut and used for the FLAP are:

Rear Tyre: New tube of rear tyre of Bajaj Avenger
Front Tyre: Stock tube of this Himalayan rear tyre only

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by khan_sultan

Tubeless conversion using TUBE FLAP.

Brilliant! Seen tons of videos from SE Asia using the same conversion very successfully. And trust me, it will last as long as any of the fancy high price conversions, that are essentially using the same concept.

An obvious part of the mod, which I think you missed, is the fitment of a tubeless valve to the rim.

Cheers, Doc

[Sebring]

I saw one video where he used expensive Outex on the Transalp and it started leaking immediately. Its either a hit or a miss.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Brilliant! Seen tons of videos from SE Asia using the same conversion very successfully. And trust me, it will last as long as any of the fancy high price conversions, that are essentially using the same concept.

[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Brilliant! Seen tons of videos from SE Asia using the same conversion very successfully. And trust me, it will last as long as any of the fancy high price conversions, that are essentially using the same concept.

Cheers, Doc

Yes, I saw several videos from SE Asia and that triggered me in this direction and also found some videos where few folks in India have done it.

I am also convinced of the success of this conversion as a concept (as being similar to other methods of conversion) and the critical factor is the skill of the mechanic doing this job. That's the most important part!

[nasirkaka]

Guys had anyone used Way2speed to convert tubed rims to tubeless in Pune ? Do you have a reliable mechanic or shop where you got it done ?

Plenty of tubeless conversions being carried-out on Himalayan 450 at a friend's garage in Bangalore by the name Top-gear Thumpers. They are one of the authorized Way2speed tubeless kit installers. I see a few Himalayan there waiting for conversion (it takes a few days time) every time i pass by.

I have also got my Interceptor converted to tubeless with Way2Speed kit at the same place, and its been holding well for past couple of years. I have subjected the bike to fair bit of off-road trail riding. I have also gone through multiple tyre removal and re fitment process with out having any issues like leaks, etc.

For tubeless conversion on any bike, ideally the rim should have an internal bead (small protrusion) which holds and seals the tyre (without a tube) in place. This is there on rims of interceptor and Himalayan 450, as these rims are cast alloy and not rolled and welded steel.

For bikes like old Himalayan 410, which came with a steel rim, without the bead, there will be very high chances of failures if converted to tubeless. TUBE FLAP technique, as shared by Kahn_sultan below might work better in such a situation.

Brilliant! Seen tons of videos from SE Asia using the same conversion very successfully. And trust me, it will last as long as any of the fancy high price conversions, that are essentially using the same concept.

Doc, the catch is this conversion fails once the tyre deflates due to a puncture or any other reasons for which you have to remove the tyre. Which is not the case with other conversions using a tape (outex) or sealant (way2speed).

An obvious part of the mod, which I think you missed, is the fitment of a tubeless valve to the rim.

I think with with tube flap approach, there is no tubeless valve required. the valve of the tube which which is cut, itself it used to fill air.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Sebring

I saw one video where he used expensive Outex on the Transalp and it started leaking immediately. Its either a hit or a miss.

That holds true of even proper tubeless tyres to new tubeless rim or new tubeless tyre to old tubeless rim fitments.

If it doesn't hold, you will know immediately.

Dirt, warping, bends, corrosion, all play a part in preventing a seal.

Once it holds, you're good to go. Till the next really hard whack.

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

For bikes like old Himalayan 410, which came with a steel rim, without the bead, there will be very high chances of failures if converted to tubeless. TUBE FLAP technique, as shared by Kahn_sultan below might work better in such a situation.

Is it different for cars? Because I've been running tubeless Bridgestone tyres on my Safari Storme stock rolled steel rims for over 10 years and 75,000 km now.

Cheers, Doc

[Nilesh5417]

Originally Posted by khan_sultan

Yes, same tyres but no tube inside now to fill air

The tubes that were cut and used for the FLAP are:

Rear Tyre: New tube of rear tyre of Bajaj Avenger
Front Tyre: Stock tube of this Himalayan rear tyre only

How?? The tyre doesn't need a tube inside to keep it inflated anymore but the regular tubed tyre construction i believe would be different from a tubeless tyre. Do you have any videos of this surgery? Might answer all.my questions at one go.

This mod under 2k is crazy good then.

How.many kms did you pile up since going tubeless? How's it holding up?

[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by Nilesh5417

How?? The tyre doesn't need a tube inside to keep it inflated anymore but the regular tubed tyre construction i believe would be different from a tubeless tyre.

This mod under 2k is crazy good then.

The stock tyre of Himalayan is tubeless construction only (it says tubeless with tube), so should not be an issue. Let's see!

The cost of this being less than 2K is one factor that tempted me to try this out.

Do you have any videos of this surgery? Might answer all.my questions at one go.

Here are some videos that will help.

SE Asian Video (very detailed):

https://youtu.be/60bi1r2Xvbo?si=LEmeSomKuMbLYsK8

Indian video (shows that in India also this has been done):

https://youtu.be/FRJbNKgPDyE?si=fOkSphEFacTFfspe

Many more such videos on youtube there to see and learn from.

[nasirkaka]

Is it different for cars? Because I've been running tubeless Bridgestone tyres on my Safari Storme stock rolled steel rims for over 10 years and 75,000 km now.

I know. I was running my Alto on tubeless tyres for ages without any issues. Never bothered to look into the details or even think about it once it was fitted. I did not even know such a possibility existed, the tyre shop suggested the conversion while replacing the set, we simply agreed to it and forgot about it.

I know about Himalayan, as i have seen a friend try hard to convert his old Himalayan 410 to tubeless setup without complete success. He did may iterations, tried different tubeless type tyres (timsuns i think) but was not completely successful. Also the rim internal started rusting doe to mosture content in the air, directly in contact with metal. All this trial and error was over a long time and eventually he got one size smaller rim from some other bike, did some mods to fit it on the rear, converted to tubeless and it held well.

The below link shares some information on the rim profile.

https://adventure-motorcycling.com/t...n%20the%20move.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Doc, the catch is this conversion fails once the tyre deflates due to a puncture or any other reasons for which you have to remove the tyre. Which is not the case with other conversions using a tape (outex) or sealant (way2speed).

Yeah, I can see that happening. In which case, it negates the one biggest advantage of using a tubeless tyre. Hmmm

I think with with tube flap approach, there is no tubeless valve required. the valve of the tube which which is cut, itself it used to fill air.

Won't hold air if so. But then, if the tube flap is sealing off the spoke holes, there needs to be a hole in it to let us fill air. That hole is for the valve, which I believe will be a tubeless airtight valve. But then, that hole in the tube flap will be a point of leakage of air in between the tube flap and the rim/spoke holes?

Cheers, Doc

[nasirkaka]

Won't hold air if so. But then, if the tube flap is sealing off the spoke holes, there needs to be a hole in it to let us fill air. That hole is for the valve, which I believe will be a tubeless airtight valve. But then, that hole in the tube flap will be a point of leakage of air in between the tube flap and the rim/spoke holes?

The first video link shared by Khan_sultan couple of posts back shows the process where the tube valve itself is used, like how we use it in normal tube tyre. Its like the seal is achieved using half the tube (along side the rim) and the other half is the tyre on top.Something like the image below is what i understand.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

The first video link shared by Khan_sultan couple of posts back shows the process where the tube valve itself is used, like how we use it in normal tube tyre. Its like the seal is achieved using half the tube (along side the rim) and the other half is the tyre on top.Something like the image below is what i understand.

Aaaaaaaaahhhh! Gotcha. Thanks bro.

I guess its essentially two ways of skinning the same cat, so to speak. Just that it probably buys you more time from catastrophic deflation as in the case of puncture of an inner tube. Versus now post mod, puncture of the tyre causing air to leak out slower, to the point where the bead seal deforms enough to burp air and then the tyre eventually goes flat.

Not a small advantage at all. Could mean the difference between reaching a puncture shop and being stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Worth a try in my book.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Since the discussion is about tubeless conversion of spoke wheels, has anyone tried this 3M tape method?

https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/3...rsion.1147330/

It is similar to outex but not as expensive. A lot of adv riders seem to have a good level of success with it. In fact I have seen multiple cases online where outex failed and the 3M tape held up fine. It is a nice thread with lots of info. Seems easy to do as well.