[Sebring]

Outex, being Japanese, I have some faith that it will work fine.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Since the discussion is about tubeless conversion of spoke wheels, has anyone tried this 3M tape method?

This is what is used for tubeless conversions of bicycles. Works well for MTBs and cyclocross bikes where the tyre pressures are low, near motorcycle levels. 30-40 psi.

Works not so well on road bikes where the pressures are 100+ psi. The puncture just does not seal. Nor does the bead hold. Burping air (CO2 if cartridges) and sealant everywhere in an unholy mess.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

This is what is used for tubeless conversions of bicycles. Works well for MTBs and cyclocross bikes where the tyre pressures are low, near motorcycle levels. 30-40 psi.

Works not so well on road bikes where the pressures are 100+ psi. The puncture just does not seal. Nor does the bead hold. Burping air (CO2 if cartridges) and sealant everywhere in an unholy mess.

Cheers, Doc

It has been done successfully by a lot riders in the forums so it is certainly worth a try. As with every other 'jugaad' tubeless conversion, prep is the most important part.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tI69EoboL0

[Motard_Blr]

It seems to me that the presence of the safety lip on the rim is very important since that's the only thing preventing a sudden loss of air in case of bad hit on a pothole or hump. Personally, I prefer dealing with a punctured tube than a sudden loss of pressure from the tyre unseating from the rim. So I will not take the risk of any tubeless conversion on a rim without the safety lip.

Incidentally, This lip is what sometimes makes bead breaking difficult on some tubeless tyres as a good amount of force is needed to push the tyre bead to climb over the lip into the well of the rim.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attac...iew-tlrims.jpg

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Tubeless conversion using TUBE FLAP technique on my Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 posts and replies moved to a new thread.

Thanks for sharing!

[Redex]

This is wrong in so many ways. I would only consider this for off road use. You are altering the dynamics of the way the tyre is secured to the rim and risking tyre seperation.
Never use tubes in tubeless tyres/rims, other than an emergency fix to get home.
Bear in mind that tubed tyres have thinner sidewalls are more prone to being unseated than tubeless tyres.
Use tyre sealant and plug repairs only in an emergency situation just to get home.
Please don't use your tube flap fix for on road use. You are risking your life, and possibly other people's lives.
Please wait for a tubeless rim option, spoked alloy etc.
If your main use is off road, stick with tubed tyres and rims, they handle lateral forces much better and won't "burp" out air is the tyre is pushed sideways.

[Apex1815]

This is a nice conversion to Tubeless Tyres.

One quick question :
I am planning to buy RE Bullet which comes with Spoke Wheels. I will later replace Spoke weeks with the Alloy wheels.

Now, I also want to have Tubeless tyre on my alloywheels. Can I use the same Tube Tyres by changing the Valve Stem and applying sealant between Tyre and the Rim ? Does this make sense ? Or will I have to buy a a new set of Tubeless tyres also along with the alloys ? Please suggest.

Thank you

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by Apex1815

This is a nice conversion to Tubeless Tyres.

One quick question :
I am planning to buy RE Bullet which comes with Spoke Wheels. I will later replace Spoke weeks with the Alloy wheels.

Now, I also want to have Tubeless tyre on my alloywheels. Can I use the same Tube Tyres by changing the Valve Stem and applying sealant between Tyre and the Rim ? Does this make sense ? Or will I have to buy a a new set of Tubeless tyres also along with the alloys ? Please suggest.

Thank you

Check if the Bullet comes with tubeless tyres as OEM, like the Himalayan. That's becoming more common as tubeless tyres can be used with tubes but the converse is not possible because the tyre won't hold air. I suspect that there is very little cost difference to manufacturers so it's easier for them to make just tubeless type tyres.

If the bike has tube type tyres, you should buy tubeless tyres when you fit alloy wheels.

[condor]

So would this work on our old 2-strokes too ?

[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by condor

So would this work on our old 2-strokes too ?

Yes. very very common on 100/125 CC bikes with spokes. There are off-the-shelf conversion kits available that come for specific sizes of wheels. A company by the name "AirLOCK" from Thailand makes such kits.

See an example here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae3zBupxroQ

[khan_sultan]

Quick update:

It's been approx 3 weeks and I have ridden some 300kms since the tubeless conversion and the setup is holding just fine — no drop in tire pressure and no other issues either.

For the sake of keeping watch on the tire pressure, installed TPMS also.

[John P Daniel]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Is it different for cars? Because I've been running tubeless Bridgestone tyres on my Safari Storme stock rolled steel rims for over 10 years and 75,000 km now.

Cheers, Doc

Hi. With car rims, it's usually a flat rolled steel with a single hole for the air valve. There are no spokes involved. With bike tyres, tubeless conversion on alloy wheels are easy.

As for spoke wheels, this type of conversion is necessary as the spokes are fitted to the wheel rim through holes. This part needs to be sealed if the tyres were to be converted to tubeless and this is done here using the Avenger bike tube.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by John P Daniel

Hi. With car rims, it's usually a flat rolled steel with a single hole for the air valve. There are no spokes involved. With bike tyres, tubeless conversion on alloy wheels are easy.

As for spoke wheels, this type of conversion is necessary as the spokes are fitted to the wheel rim through holes. This part needs to be sealed if the tyres were to be converted to tubeless and this is done here using the Avenger bike tube.

Yes I understand that well. Nasir (the guy who's post I was responding to) was talking about rims with and without an internal bead (lip) against which the tyre bead seals. The rolled steel motorcycle rims are different from alloys in that respect. I was wondering if the same was the case between car alloys (mags) and rolled steel rims. Nothing to do with the spoke holes, blocking off of which is of course well understood. Hope that clarifies.

Cheers, Doc

[FlankerH]

Summary: Is it the best option? Maybe not. But for sure is quick and cost-effective. To get back to tube type is just a matter of putting the tube back!
Will ride for a few weeks and observe how the air holds up and look out for any leaks/pressure drops.

Total Cost: 500 for Avenger tube + 850 for the tyre sealant + 750 labor charges

Well, I have been using this setup on my interceptor for more then 3 years and 5k+ KMs now (yes i know the KMs are way too less) and i can confidently say that it won't cause you much of a trouble. **T&C Applies.
Infact i have ridden on all type of roads, no roads, slush, gravel and water crossings as took the risk of riding to munsiyari too. Done illeagle speeds (150+ KMPH) - check as well.
Infact bike instantly feels more agile once you loose the tube.

Now the cavioat is you will loose 2 PSI air everyday from rear wheel and approx 0.5 PSI from front wheel. If you have got this setup and a frequent rider then you can get tyre pressure in check as n when but if you are a lazy bum like me who seldom leaves home for anything then every time once you reach your bike in full riding gear you will fume at your choice of getting this arrangement done.
To somewhat address the dwindling tyre pressure everyday you can put more air in tyre i.e. for e.g. with Pirelli the recommended tyre pressure is 38 PSI while i used to keep it at 45 or so, the flipside is it will make ride a bit harder but more puncher resistant.

As of today for rear wheel i have gone back to traditional tube setup with change of tyre which is MRF while front is still running the Pirelli 'tube type tubeless arrangement' as i am waiting for the front MRF tyre from HD x440 to enter the retail shops (not pleased with the performance of Ceats).

Happy Riding!