[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by aviator1101

RE recommended oil change interval is 10000 kms. However, the condition was pretty bad even at 5000 kms, which even the technicians checked and agreed to.

After seeing the quality of the OEM liquid gun oil, even in plains and cruising on highways or normal city use, I would prefer to change the oil at max 6000-7000 kms for preserving engine health and peace of mind in the long run.

The service centre gave me a separate bill for the engine oil and the oil change wasn't entered in the service record either.

RE started this 10k interval with the 650 twins but it uses synthetic oil. I still prefer max usage should be 6k kms. Hence for semi-synthetic this can be followed. The oil filter change kit includes all the rubber gaskets and later (after 10k kms) you can use this interval to put engine oil of your choice from a FNG!

I used to do that for 3 years till my bike was in Warranty as RE oil change was annual.

However, we may avoid comparing with the LS 411 engine because the Sherpa 450 is a modern engine, even the tolerances are tighter and levels of technology applied are unprecedented by RE or any other Indian brand's standards. The only sore point might be the bearings in longer run. Fully synthetic engine oil should work just fine with this engine.

RE's decision to have semi-synthetic (recommended) for their most advanced engine is a bit confusing to me! To keep the service costs lower?

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[Sebring]

Exactly. My mechanic is advising me to use semi-synth for the time being.

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

RE's decision to have semi-synthetic (recommended) for their most advanced engine is a bit confusing to me! To keep the service costs lower?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

RE's decision to have semi-synthetic (recommended) for their most advanced engine is a bit confusing to me! To keep the service costs lower?

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

If they are instructing 10k oil change intervals with a Semi synth oil, that is surprising. Especially on the highest revving, high compression, stressed single they make.

[Sebring]

The first batch of Himalayan 450 is in the UK, but without the tubeless rims. This opens a lot of questions

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

RE started this 10k interval with the 650 twins but it uses synthetic oil.
I used to do that for 3 years till my bike was in Warranty as RE oil change was annual.

RE's decision to have semi-synthetic (recommended) for their most advanced engine is a bit confusing to me! To keep the service costs lower?

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

Originally Posted by b16h22

If they are instructing 10k oil change intervals with a Semi synth oil, that is surprising. Especially on the highest revving, high compression, stressed single they make.

10k interval by Indian standards by any manufacturer is simply applesauce! When an engine is tested by ARAI and the manufacturer, they adhere to certain test protocols where each and every aspect of the motorcycle performance can be extended "under standard test conditions" These standard test conditions means a it's a lab test "under simulated conditions"

These can, shall and will never replicate real life usage, real life wear and tear, varying ambient temperature, adherence to maintenance, rider variations, et cetera and the list goes on.

10k interval is a pipe dream with near perfect aviation grade clean fuel, ambient air that's as clean as Virat Kohli's bedroom and temperature as stable as Rahul Dravid's batting. If these variables are met then perhaps the oil can be extended to 7k. 10k by any standards for an oil that does both engine and gearbox and clutch lubrication is tall order for today's high compression engines both GT and the RE450.

The reason RE prefers semi synthetic to fully synthetic is primarily because of viscosity. FS will thin out faster owing to the temperature, thus will flows well but doesn't have good oil film protection. SSs hold viscosity longer, doesn't thin out faster and keeps the oil film over the parts and hence SS - also cost wise it makes a difference.

Cheers!
VJ

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

10k interval by Indian standards by any manufacturer is simply applesauce!

The reason RE prefers semi synthetic to fully synthetic is primarily because of viscosity. FS will thin out faster owing to the temperature, thus will flows well but doesn't have good oil film protection. SSs hold viscosity longer, doesn't thin out faster and keeps the oil film over the parts and hence SS - also cost wise it makes a difference.

I think this was discussed in the Triumph Speed 400 thread that some 'newbies' who goes by the book will suffer. "If the OEM has said X-km oil change interval why should one change before that?"

In the above case, the service center was pro-active and checked the engine oil and replaced it correctly! On a busy day, in a lazy Service Center it might be skipped. I want to highlight that as a motorcycle owner we have to take the decision and get it changed before the 'ideal' change interval.

Good points you shared between SS & FS, but there's nothing better than fresh oil for an engine!

For OEMs, I hope they put realistic numbers in future! RE is doing a good job in following the SOP for the new Himalayan.

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[Jaggu]

So after a long wait finally got my hands on the New Himalayan Sherpa over the weekend. Thanks to ex mod Khan_Sultan who has picked up one, so along with his Gen 1 Himalayan we did a ride of Uttarakhand hills. Starting from Noida > Abbott Mount > Munsiyari > Almora > Noida. This gave a good mix of all terrains and roads that one would encounter during ownership. These are my notes and easiest comparison would be with 390 Adv I own, comparing it the GSA 1200 (my other bike) would be unfair I guess.

Chassis and handling.

This is one area where the bike has really trumped the cards, compared to the old bike, new Sherpa is like leagues apart. Though the bike may feel top heavy (which it is), it is just a brilliant handler. Almost as nimble as the KTM, but more matured Vs the hooligan nature of the KTM. Personally I prefer this, slightly heavier feel which gives it a big bike feel. Yes it will need lil more effort during prolonged curve carving but what a bike! I would give 8.5/10 for this. Even city use the handling is very friendly as long as you are moving. The larger size of the bike helps with longer visibility and respect from other fellow commuters.

Suspension

Again one of the good things, it's sprung on the stiffer side but kind of takes on any kind of terrain without a fuzz. Bike was running slightly higher pressure since Khan had done a tubeless conversion and wanted to put some buffer during the testing phase. Still it was pretty good, though at higher highway speeds bike did float a bit, just like the KTM's. Crosswinds were high, so I really can't blame the bike, plus higher pressure. All day sitting at 100-120 Kmph should be a breeze for this suspension.

Brakes

Look Ma I finally have brakes! We were swapping bikes and move from new to old Himalayan is outright scary. New one brakes on the dot, very precise. Add rear brakes and it can be quite grabby also for those emergency stops. Fortunately we did not have any panic brake situations, but am sure they will work just fine. Feel of the brakes I would rate new Himalayan better than the KTM Adv 390.

Engine & Gearbox

This is one major upgrade, but honestly apart from the power I was not really impressed. The said bike has upgrades done that includes 1) Fuel X piggy back 2) exhaust expansion box delete on stock end can and 3) free flow air filter. These mods are 100% recommended!

Stock map (at setting 3) bike feels vibeee like hell, left pegs vibrate more than right, so it is not even vibes lol. Even a 20-30 kms on the stock map was like down right irritating on the plains. Move the setting to 8 and the bike just transforms, not only does the initial response improves by two fold, the vibes reduce to a very very acceptable level. I think it is the new BS6 norms that are a culprit here. If they sort this, engine would be a lovely one. Mind you, it is not a high revving 12k rpm motor like KTM. Just let the revs goto about 6-7 k RPM and work through that smooth gear box for a fun filled ride. People who are used to gen 1 Himalayan gearbox would take some good time to get used to the nature of the new 6 speed box. One has to really work it and keep engine in right revs to have some good pace.

Side stand

Yes this needs a special mention under the flops! Thanks to the design of central stand and placement, side stand is weirdly bent. It looks cool, but the bike lands up being too low on the side. Add the top heavy nature, and bike is a real pain in the arsu, rather legs and hands to lift up. If there is a slight incline to left, then you are done! with some luggage on top, well you can dial a friend for help. One of the worst design one can have on a touring bike. Khan is contemplating removing central stand and designing a longer more upright side stand, that is the level of pain. For me being used to the big fat cow, could manage. But trust me if you are of small built and for fellow lady riders, this could be a real downer while making the purchase decision.

Rider fitting

Royal Enfield really need to learn here. This bike has a riser fitted so handle bars were kinda sorted. But hello if you need to adjust the switch gear to sync up with new handle bar position or even lever positions, you can't! The switch gear has a small plastic locator stub, that goes into a corresponding hole at the bar end. Smart Alecs in RE never thought that people actually need to adjust levers and switch gear for comfort and safety. Yes one can file off the plastic stub and then tighten the switch console back while adding some 3M tape, but how lame can this be??!!

Next is the gear level, the lever end is almost 1/4 inch taller than foot pegs (with rubber), with riding boots one has to lift legs and kick the lever down More impressive is the way in which the lever is attached to the shifter rod. The adjustment is as old school as it can be, one has to remove the whole pedal off the splines and reinsert it. Which is fine, but once you remove the bolt the lever just refuses to come out. You will need a lever or thick screwdriver to be showed inside the clamp side and spread the hole to get it off. We did not have this, so had to put back the bolt and ride on with that awkwardly positioned lever. Compared to this the old Himalayan has a nice adjustable link which can be used to set the lever position by undoing the bolt with an open 10 mm spanner!

Seats though they are firm (my liking), are not comfortable over long rides. Not even as comfy as the bare bench 390 adv. Reason being 1) the seat is tilted and one will land up sliding down. 2) bigger issue, rear part of front seat which is wide and where your bum should be... the scoop of the plastic base pokes the bum hard exactly there. The cushion just doesn't have any place to flex and the plastic eventually leaves its mark on your bum. This can be fixed by a good seat guy, and Khan is planning for something.

Overall verdict

I loved it minus the engine! but what Khan has done has kinda made it good. This can be a good one bike solution for 200-400km/day touring and city use. I would not dare say, it can compete with 800 to 1200 cc bikes, that would be just Khayali pulao (wishful thinking), but is a good "read economical" alternative... if you don't want to spend a fortune, procuring even preowned big bikes that cost more.

Is it a KTM Adv killer? Not really, coz the character is very different. This bike may not really be to the liking of younger or a real fast rider if you ask me. KTM is much more refined, polished overall and a hoot to ride.

Will I trade my KTM Adv 390 for this? Well yes if someone offers a flat exchange to my bike with this. But I will definitely get those tweaks copied from Khans bike.

PS: A big thanks to Khan_Sultan for letting me ride this beauty and his old Himalayan! Love you bro and this was yet another awesome ride.

EDIT:

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Classic example of side stand, the old Himalayan wouldn't park proper at this incline if it's facing the other way around like Sherpa. Which is the way it should be. Where as Sherpa nicely sitting down even with raised road bank on that side. Also to lock the steering to opp side to lift the bike off, you will need some serious muscle thanks to the front and top heaviness of the bike.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Good points you shared between SS & FS, but there's nothing better than fresh oil for an engine!

For OEMs, I hope they put realistic numbers in future! RE is doing a good job in following the SOP for the new Himalayan.

Yes sir! The key to a smooth engine is identifying a gruff engine. The user just has to listen to what the engine is trying to communicate through sight, sounds and feel. I always say, all those fancy oils will deteriorate no matter what. What matters is timely oil replacement coupled with oil filter. Oil filter plays a huge role in keeping the innards clean. Periodic engine oil replacement in and around the 4 to 5k kms "max" along with oil filter pays dividends in the long run.

Cheers!
VJ

[Meteormariner]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

RE started this 10k interval with the 650 twins but it uses synthetic oil. I still prefer max usage should be 6k kms. Hence for semi-synthetic this can be followed. The oil filter change kit includes all the rubber gaskets and later (after 10k kms) you can use this interval to put engine oil of your choice from a FNG!

Yes, I too believe RE has brought in this 10k kms and the use of semi-synthetic just to keep the running costs low.
That said the liquid gun although has a good additive package (came to know by lab tests run on the liquid gun by a trusted youtuber, tremendous improvement from the previous versions of the liquid gun( prior introduction of the J Series)) does not seem to contain the best base oils.

My experience is that the base oils on the liquid gun evaporate under extreme use conditions, like say 7 -10 hrs of highway cruising, loss of base oils is going to change the viscosity index of the oil, thereby reducing the protection the oil offers to the engine. The oil evaporating from the crankcase is routed to the combustion chamber through the crankcase ventilation and the combustion of the lubricating oil is likely to give more carbon deposits in comparison to the combustion of gasoline.

I have felt this by running a finger through the exhaust pipe of my meteor 350 which leaves behind some amount( not alarming) of soot which is not present when ester based fully synthetic oils are used, also the evaporation is almost nil when ester-based fully synthetic oils are used.

Originally Posted by Sebring

Can we use it? My friend had issues with old Himalayan using fully synth. I am not sure if mineral/semi-synth is required for the new Himalayan. Have to ask the dealership.

Fully synthetic is supposed to be superior to the semi-synthetic in terms of engine protection, it would be very helpful if you can give an outline on what were the issues faced by your friend on use of fully synthetic on the 411.
I too use fully synthetic on my j series, that's why I am a bit concerned after reading your post.

Vignesh Rajan

Mod Note: Please use the EDIT or QUOTE+ (multi-quote) button instead of typing one post after another on the SAME THREAD!

To know how to multi-quote, click here.

[Sebring]

He was facing engine oil leakage, and on one instance had to open up the engine he said

Originally Posted by Meteormariner

Fully synthetic is supposed to be superior to the semi-synthetic in terms of engine protection, it would be very helpful if you can give an outline on what were the issues faced by your friend on use of fully synthetic on the 411

[aviator1101]

Originally Posted by Sebring

The first batch of Himalayan 450 is in the UK, but without the tubeless rims. This opens a lot of questions

Even when released as an accessory, which as per RE would happen not before second half of 2024, it will not be cheap by any means.

Apart from the wheels, the hub will also require to be changed to a compatible one. Expect total expenditure to be anything from ₹50k upwards.

[NTab]

Originally Posted by Sebring

He was facing engine oil leakage, and on one instance had to open up the engine he said

It’s surprising to hear. Never heard such issue amongst my friends also who are using FS on H411. I am also using FS engine oil on my H411 and there has been no issue so far. The first FS was 10w50 RE engine oil(the one used in Interceptor), and currently I am using Amsoil Metric 15W50 FS. There is a significant difference with the Amsoil one, and the even after long rides(8-9hrs), the bike performs good. I will be using Motorex/Silkolene the next time just to check how these oil performs.

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by manaslu@2028

Anyone here doing DIY chain clean for the Himalayan? Is the good old Diesel/Kerosene/WD 40 ok for cleaning the chain followed by a chain lube?

Also, what would be the recommended distance before cleaning/lubricating assuming its city ride mostly?

I would suggest using a chain cleaner solution which is available across many brands. Motul, Putoline, Maxima, OKS are some brands for reference.

Please avoid using kerosene, diesel, WD40 to clean the chain. Over time, the rubber washers in the chain links will degrade, harden and crack, causing premature wear in the chain.

I have used Motul chain clean and Motul chain lube for 14+ years across two imported motorbikes. Clean and lube the chain every 500-750 kms. I followed this routine and my stock chain and sprocket lasted for more than 30,000 kms while some others I know changed their chain and sproket kits in 22,000 - 25,000 kms on the same brand of bikes that I owned.

[bhansali_hardik]

Ride through thejungle for last couple of days.

Here is some bonker mileage on the bike (spoiler does not match tankful method)



Short clip from the ride :

Himalayan

[rishi.roger]

Has someone here been able to work on Rear Sprocket ?
I intend to change the rear sprocket to 49 or 50 teeth to avoid frequent downshifting in city.
Preferably if some Garage near NCR that can do it for me, I'm not a grease monkey myself and I'd hate to make a mess with the abs/sensor when dismantling rear wheel.