[Gordon]

YouTube Searches
Almost 90% of the articles and videos that show up when searching for motorcycle lubrication is related to chain cleaning, chain lubing and a lot of biased/un-biased reviews of the chain-related products.

Authorized Service Center
Moreover, I do not trust any authorized service center to actually lubricate all pivot points and cables as instructed in the service manual (free or otherwise).

A simple personal experience at the ASC
I recently had some biting issue with the front brake on my Xpulse 200, wherein at low speeds when applying the front brake, it would somewhat judder and not bite properly. I raised it to the service advisor and technician during the paid quarterly service at the ASC. Nothing was done to improve the situation.

I wondered if it could be air in the brake fluid, or the pads are worn out, or the disc has worn out or worse the MC-kit needs to be replaced.

Local hero does the job
Finally visited my local mechanic, he took a short test ride, applied a few drops of oil to the pivot point of the front brake lever and that's it. Its working wonderfully.

Shouldn't this have been managed in the ASC Service, where post-washing they should have lubricated all the points. At every service, there is a consumables charge for such lubrication, yet nothing was done.

No specific thread on Motorcycle Lubrication on Team-BHP either
Rolling on this thread, so we can share some DIY information and safety measure on the same regards to the below (and not limited to):

1. What are the general points to cover? Lever pivots, cables, springs, carb/fi-cable points, key holes, etc?
2. What lubricant do you use? Gear Oil, Grease, a specific product?
3. What about more complex technical points such as axle, swingarm bushes, bearings, etc?
4. How do you manage these tasks?

Mods: Please merge if similar thread exists, since I couldn't find one.

[hgps]

Originally Posted by Gordon

YouTube Searches
Almost 90% of the articles and videos that show up when searching for motorcycle lubrication is related to chain cleaning, chain lubing and a lot of biased/un-biased reviews of the chain-related products.

Mods: Please merge if similar thread exists, since I couldn't find one.

Interesting question, Something I never thought about even though I take care of some lubrication needs of my bike myself.

1. The brake judder you faced is quite familiar to me. I face this frequently on my CBR250R and 650F. Everytime this happens, I remove the brake lever, clean the pivot pin and apply fresh layer of 'multipurpose' grease. I believe hydro phobic grease would be better but I never researched. My regular grease does the job for a few months. This problem has reduced quite a bit after I stopped getting my bike washed outside. I now wash it myself, with a Mug and bucket, No pressure washing and Avoid washing the pivot points (T-Stem, brake lever and pedals etc). Post washing, wipe with a damp cloth does the trick.

Ignition key hole - I used to apply regular gear oil, but recently started experimenting with graphite powder (crushed pencil lead). Results are good enough.

Fuel tank cap - A drop of gear oil in key hole and the latches inside.

Rusted bolts - Remove them and apply WD40, Then I wipe them clean, apply some gear oil, wipe again and put them back in.

2. Gear oil for chain lube, regular multipurpose grease for brake/clutch lever/caliper pin. Graphite powder for ignition lock cylinder.

3. I have never lubricated Swing arm, suspension bush etc. I convince myself saying that odo isn't high enough on my bikes for it. But the actual reason is lack of competent mechanics willing to do so for me.
However, wheel bearings get lubricated with regular 'multipurpose' grease during tyre change. None of my bikes had their bearings replaced so far.

4. I do all the lube work mentioned above myself. As none of it requires removal of swing arm or suspension components.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by Gordon

What are the general points to cover? Lever pivots, cables, springs, carb/fi-cable points, key holes, etc?

You've covered almost all of them, perhaps side & main stands, footrests; thumb rule: moveable parts

Originally Posted by Gordon

What lubricant do you use? Gear Oil, Grease, a specific product?

Grease is used where the temperature would shoot high & chances of oil evaporation; oil is used otherwise; WD40 where there're plenty of chances of water damaging the parts especially electricals {key hole, switches}; chain lube ofcourse is used with chains

Originally Posted by Gordon

What about more complex technical points such as axle, swingarm bushes, bearings, etc?

Front & rear axles are lubed once in 50-60K Km {on CBR}; same goes with my Yamaha & trust the same

Originally Posted by Gordon

How do you manage these tasks?

Owner's manual {periodic maintenance table} + service booklet + ASC & ofcourse online automotive forums

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Gordon

YouTube Searches
[list=1][*]What are the general points to cover? Lever pivots, cables, springs, carb/fi-cable points, key holes, etc?

Mods: Please merge if similar thread exists, since I couldn't find one.

Two points from my experience

1. The key hole being equipped with a drain system, little benefit is achieved on lubricating the same. Of course you can use contact cleaner spray like zorrick. But the best effect is achieved if you dismantle and clean the corroded contact points.
2. The new generation cables are equipped with a self lubricating inner layer, dust proof nipples on both ends and a plastic pivot on the cable edges. As such they are maintenance free. Oiling the new cables with just attract dust and it won't add any benefits to the operation.

The swing arm bolt / bushes (other than plastic ones) / spacer, axle and bearings should be dismantled , cleaned and lubricated for attaining best results. No shortcuts to that.

regards Arun

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by Gordon

What are the general points to cover? Lever pivots, cables, springs, carb/fi-cable points, key holes, etc?

Originally Posted by hgps

Ignition key hole - I used to apply regular gear oil, but recently started experimenting with graphite powder (crushed pencil lead). Results are good enough.

Agree, have kept a 2B pencil just for this. Prefer leads on B side rather than H side for this job.

Originally Posted by adrian

2. The new generation cables are equipped with a self lubricating inner layer, dust proof nipples on both ends and a plastic pivot on the cable edges. As such they are maintenance free. Oiling the new cables with just attract dust and it won't add any benefits to the operation.

Yes, current cables don't need any lubrication. Earlier cables had open end on one side and inner layer had to travel entire length of cable, hence necessitated lubrication. Only point new current cable need some lubrication on outer sheath is when sliding a replacement one in small area beneath fuel tank.

[VijayAnand1]

The very term lubricant and the intended use of that lubricant as a lube is equally branched out as the chemistry of the lube in question itself.

Coming to our topic, the important do-it-all lube to keep handy for any DIY-er at home is automotive gear oil preferably, 90EP. Gear oil has varied uses, it can be dabbed over anything that has two metal components sliding, meshing, penetrating and what not. Moreoever gear oil being thick, resists dribbling, holds on to the very part intended to be lubricated, most part.

Case in point, on a motorcycle, gear oil can be used..

1. Clutch yoke, pivot point and the clutch adjuster innards, helps smooth the clutch and lever play.

2. Gear oil can be used to lubricate your motorcycle chain, after it's been rinsed off of all the grime and muck.. Cheap and effective lubrication and prevents chain rusting for the most part.

3. A few drops of this on foot peg mechanism, all fours, would mean less creaky and smooth moving foot-pegs. Same goes foot brake pivot, a few drops on the pivot would smoothen the pedal play. And lots more.

4. WD40 also helps keeping the keyholes of motorcycle in top nick. When hard/brine water enters lockset mechanism, fuel tank cap hinges, control cables they turn creaky and the smooth continuous motion of them becomes sticky. Use of WD40 on these keyholes helps them increase their life and a very small drop of gear oil inside the keyhole post WD 40 treatment would make them brand new. Same goes for control cable lubrication, removing those cables and allowing oil to flow through the innards allows for a longer cable life and smoother feel.

Solid Lubrication
===========

Solid lubrication is where greases are involved, and these need to be carried out during every service or depending on the age of the motorcycle/vehicle. Greases are used where high sliding and friction are involved, i.e. like bearings, heavy load bushings, swing arm pivots. These cannot be opened frequently, so these areas should be graciously lubed when they're removed, preferably through a mechanic.

So, to keep it simple. Preventative lubrication is crucial in terms of keeping the motorcycle elements we use on a daily basis at top nick, which in turn makes for a smoother riding experience.

Cheers!
VJ

[Gordon]

Found some good videos related to Front Brake Lever Maintenance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3PBILmue8Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB5yUOIZIoM

[Moose]

Here is my process and things I use.
For chain cleaning, Kerosene works. It's cheap and doesn't effect the 'O' rings in the chain. I use it liberally and clean the chain with an old rag.

For chain lube, 90W gear oil works wonders. I prefer it over Motul chain lube and advise others to use it too. Gear oil doesn't cake up like motul and it's easier to clean later. Apply liberally and wipe off excess. Do not run the bike on center stand to clean and lube the chain, save your fingers folks.

My libation of choice is WD-40. After a wash, allow the bike to dry in shade and generously spritz all the keyholes, foot pegs, brake lever pivots, clutch lever pivot, clutch and throttle cable. Wipe off the excess to avoid dust accumulation.

Do not use pencil lead to lubricate keyholes, it has graphite and clay. It may lubricate the contact point but keep in mind, it's also acting as an abrasive. If you can get it, use Moly spray or WD40 will work fine.

Brake squeal is the bane of my existence, hence I keep a packet of Moly grease or Graphite grease. A light coat of it on pivot pins and the face of brake pistons(disks only, I don't work on drum brakes) take care of the squeal. Let me emphasize this, DO NOT go ape shit with the grease to address the noise from brakes. Sometimes, a light sanding of brake pads from 180grit sandpaper also works. Identify and address accordingly.

Use the heat and dip method for oxidized or rusting bolts to make it easier for future use.
How to: Remove the oxidized bolt, clean it in soapy water. Heat the bolt head over a gas stove flame till it begins to glow faint red and dip it in cup of cooking oil. Repeat it till you see a nice dark grey coating over the bolt, it should be about 3-4 times. It will look ugly but it will resist further oxidation.

Hope this helps.