Quote:
Originally Posted by efuture Before starting, i'm putting up the latest picture of my bike. I washed it after a long time and it does look good with all plastic parts in place. Attachment 2339412
Its a 2015 Hero Karizma ZMR V2 with fuel injector and digital instrument cluster with close to 40,000km on the ODO. I did not serviced the bike properly in the last 2-3 years other than regular engine oil replacement. Due to poor maintenance and age, the bike is in terrible mechanical condition and need a major overhaul. This is partly due to my DIY engine oil refilling back in 2019. I overfilled the engine oil more than the max limit and drove the bike on highway for more than 200km at 80+km in full throttle even after the bike refused to move at low speeds . I took the bike to Hero Service center next day and they flushed the excess oil, cleaned Air filter. But all the problem started from there one by one. I took the bike to multiple hero service centers and local mechanics, but after spending close to 20k, nothing worked and the bike was getting worse after every service. Pickup and throttle response was getting bad after every km and mileage deteriorated to 25kmpl . I'm getting an eye watering 220 to 250km range for every 1000rupees refill even when the bike is driven at speeds less than 60kmph.
I do not find any good bike similar to ZMR V2 for less than 2 lakhs presently in the market. Also 2Lakhs for a 2 wheeler doesn't sound good in my opinion . I'm in a confusion what to do with the bike, weather to completely restore it back to pre-DIY era or replace it with something else.
Long list of trouble below, looking forward your valuable suggestions and service center reference in and around Chennai,
[list=1][*]Heavy Vibration from engine. Vibrations are felt heavily on the foot pegs, handle bar and feeling numbness in most parts of the body even after a short 20km drive at low and high speeds. Case is even worse for pillion riders - completely removed engine from chassis and re-installed with new bolts in Hero service center & overhauled engine once in a local mechanic shop[*]Very high engine noise[*]Rattling noise from silencer/engine at speeds above 50kmph[*]Poor acceleration during start and all speeds, literally have to shift down in some cases to pickup speed and acceleration in highways. Strange for a 20bhp, 20Nm bike
.....
Thanks in Advance! |
Hi there. The ZMR V2 engine is one of the most potent engines from the Hero stable since the JV had ended. Also, the V2 ZMR was developed with inspiration from the flagship model of the Buell 1190 line (Hero MotoCorp had bought EBR-Erik Buell Racing in hopes of expanding tech and resources). So as a result, the radical design was disapproved by Karizma purists, but radical compared to todays' commuter 250cc's which are priced at a percieved premium.
These are the plus points according to me :
(+) Your bike is a unique one. Styling wise, too. If you'll see, there's nothing alike on todays' roads. It looks cosmetically well maintained, so thats a plus for me.
(+) Its an agreeable fact that since the JV had ended, quality had gone down in Hero models. Since then like very other company does, Hero have kept improving their part quality, so getting new ones installed PROPERLY shouldn't be a problem. Since the basic engine architecture isn't a hard departure from the OG Karizma, workmanship too shouldn't be a problem. For this, I'd advise you to find a reputed FNG which has some experience working on this engine. There is a similar thread trending in the motorcycle section (
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5366876 (15-year old Karizma submerged in flooded basement | EDIT: Now restored)). You can make out the costs from this situation.
This post might be detailed, but here's what I think the problems come from. I'll be listing them in order :
1.Heavy Vibration from engine - engine is feeling stressed. Maybe the resistance is from the inside. All the improper lubrication might have caused major abrasion on critical working parts such as the cylinder block, crankshaft, etc.
2.Very high engine noise - once again there is resistance against the working of the engone internals. Please take a thorough look at the internals, and replace them thoroughly.
3.Rattling noise from silencer/engine at speeds above 50kmph - Vibrations from the engine are passed on to the silencer mount point, which causes this. Improper connection at the cylinder head also has a part in this free movement.
4.Poor acceleration during start and all speeds, literally have to shift down in some cases to pickup speed and acceleration in highways. Strange for a 20bhp, 20Nm bike - once again, the internal resistance rears its ugly head.
5.Engine oil leak - a particular level of working pressure inside the engine has to be achieved for all the fluids to flow naturally. Improper engine oil levels might be the cause, causing the excess pressure to leak and bring oil out with it. Faulty/failed/degraded gaskets might be the issue too. Pls get it checked.
6.Top speed limited - Difficult and taking longer time to reach 3 figures - internal resistace is high, pls dont run the bike for longer periods at this stage. Get it checked asap.
7.Very low mileage - <25kmpl - very hard to digest after owing an electric bike which is literally free to drive in Tamilnadu - Same. Since internal resisance is high, the engine is taking in more fuel to produce required power, as opposed to the efficiency figures it was originally designed for.
8.Tight and Clutch - replaced clutch plates twice, no help - clutch springs need to be torqued to the spec. Pls get it checked.
9.Hard gear shifts - hearing hard thud sound for every shift - gears inside the gearbox are not aligned properly, since this is a constant mesh gearbox. The gears are in continous contact with each other for power transmission. Pls check the gear lever mechanism also. This also plays a crucial role in moving the gear rows.
10.Stuck gears - need to release clutch and re-engage after a short throttle to shift the gears most of the time - there might be an issue inside the gearbox with the dog clutches. These are present between each set of gears and help in selecting each speed. Pls get them checked.
11.Engine not settling in Idle - random RPM rise upto 1.8k RPM from 1k RPM - again, the ECU is trying to modulate the speed of the engine at a constant speed, but the internal resistance comes into play and the engine is working at random RPM's.
12.Tight handle bar - hard to turn end-to-end in slow speed and in stationary - pls get the cone set bearings replaced. They are situated under the triple tree.
13.Poor Throttle response - pls get the throttle body cleaned and pls get the injector cleaned too. See that the injector is cleaned carefully, because these keihin replacement units cost a bomb.
14.Tight throttle cable - pls check the mechanism beside the right hand switchgear. WD40 will help a lot.
15.Hard front Suspension and noise from suspension during braking - the oil inside the front forks may have done its job, and a replacement is pending. Requires an overhaul along with fresh fork oil.
16.Oil leak in left rear suspension - Hero uses GRS units which were first introduced on the Hunk. Its a proprietary technology, so chances of a rebuild are less. Buying a new one, or replacing the entire set with a similar gas charged set from Endurance might be the solution.
17.Zero spring action in rear swing arm - don't know if it is only from faulty suspension - faults point towards a bad supension setup.
18.Hard to move bike in gear with the clutch fully engaged - lot of rolling resistance - internal resistance.
19.Grinding noise from front to rear when the vehicle is moved in neutral - something is wrong with the chain and it is not aligned straight as well - pending wheel bearing replacement
20.Front disc and brake pads - consumables, replace. Check for scouring marks on the disc. Replace if present.
21.Rear disc and brake pads - consumables, replace. Check for scouring marks on the disc. Replace if present.
22.Rear tubeless tyres to be replaced - pls stick to stock size.
23.75% of instrument display is blank in artificial light. Numbers and texts are visible during day light - you can get the LCD unit revamped at a meter console repair shop. They exist, and you will find them.
24.Lights need an upgrade - Phillips/Osram H4 bulbs will do the trick.
25.Front left indicator and LED to be replaced - set. Indicator cannot be replaced separately. 750 rupees for one side -. Trust me, Hero spares are not cheap
26.Horn will act randomly sometime - either switch issue in the switchgear or the wiring issue. Some horns use a relay to be activated. I dont know if the V2 ZMR uses a relay, but pls find the weakpoint and get it replaced.
My 2 cents : keep the bike, get the work done, enjoy the bike for decades to come. Spending 2+L on something similar and getting disappointed is surely a waste of money and peace. Spend on the bike, keep it with you, hand it off below to a budding rider, and be happy.