[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Amrit@wheels

My personal approach is that always change both tyres unless it's an untimely change. I have experienced the Rad X1 on the rear and it's a pretty good tyre, decent grip and fairly strong as well. Great choice.

If you are commuting or tour a lot, and not loading the front heavily (aggressive braking) the front outlasts the rear by quite a few thousand kilometres. In such case, it would be a waste to simply change because you want to have fresh rubber on both the wheels.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

If you are commuting or tour a lot, and not loading the front heavily (aggressive braking) the front outlasts the rear by quite a few thousand kilometres. In such case, it would be a waste to simply change because you want to have fresh rubber on both the wheels.

Cheers, Doc

Usually on most bikes the rear gets eaten up quicker than the front. But seems to be a pattern on the Gixxer for the front MRFs to go bad first I ran the stock MRFs on the rear for about 1000kms with the new front. Didn't find any handling issues honestly. There was still rubber for another 2k but I had to swap them eventually due to a sketchy puncture repair by previous owner.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Usually on most bikes the rear gets eaten up quicker than the front. But seems to be a pattern on the Gixxer for the front MRFs to go bad first

You are bang on. Even I did not believe my son when he told me about the front. But honestly, maybe it has something to do with the balance of the bike (front bias). Also, his front had a big plug in it (saw it when it was removed). Maybe that had been micro leaking and he was riding around with low pressure.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Front end is feeling weird guys. Son was complaining of the steering feeling very "tight" the moment the new tyre went on and he rode it out of the shop. I told him its because its a new tyre. But he's ridden it 50 km now and is not confident of the frel at all. So I took a ride just now. The steering is heavy. And the tip-in is sharp and sudden beyond a point. Not confidence inspiring. The pressure is perfect (29 psi) and the wheel is rotating free off the ground. And yes, direction of rotation is correct. Front end just feels jammed and heavy. Not free.

What could be the issue?

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Front end is feeling weird guys. Son was complaining of the steering feeling very "tight" the moment the new tyre went on and he rode it out of the shop. I told him its because its a new tyre. But he's ridden it 50 km now and is not confident of the frel at all. So I took a ride just now. The steering is heavy. And the tip-in is sharp and sudden beyond a point. Not confidence inspiring. The pressure is perfect (29 psi) and the wheel is rotating free off the ground. And yes, direction of rotation is correct. Front end just feels jammed and heavy. Not free.

What could be the issue?

Cheers, Doc

Has to be a cone set issue. The steering stem bearings might be notchy or tight. Considering the bike has run close to 20k, well worth a look. You can try loosening the stem nut and backing off the preload on the bearing. If it is just over tightened, that should fix it.

Took apart mine last week because the steering was not smooth. Some rust was starting to form and grease was barely there. Cleaned up everything and greased it. Ideally should've replaced it but that's a job for another day.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Has to be a cone set issue.

Yes, but why AFTER the new tyre?

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Yes, but why AFTER the new tyre?

Cheers, Doc

Tyres should not create such a big difference. The only variable is fork alignment going for a toss when the tyre guys took the wheel off. Try loosening the lower clamp pinch bolts and axle pinch bolts (ideally stem nut as well) and bouncing the fork. Then tighten the bolts back. If the forks are mildly twisted in the clamps, it can sometimes stop them from compressing or extending properly due to stiction. This can contribute to the falling sensation you feel in turns. Just a hunch.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Tyres should not create such a big difference. The only variable is fork alignment going for a toss when the tyre guys took the wheel off. Try loosening the lower clamp pinch bolts and axle pinch bolts (ideally stem nut as well) and bouncing the fork. Then tighten the bolts back. If the forks are mildly twisted in the clamps, it can sometimes stop them from compressing or extending properly due to stiction. This can contribute to the falling sensation you feel in turns. Just a hunch.

Of all of these, the only ones that were touched, to take the front wheel off, were the two axle pinch bolts on the left fork leg, before the axle was removed.

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Of all of these, the only ones that were touched, to take the front wheel off, were the two axle pinch bolts on the left fork leg, before the axle was removed.

Cheers, Doc

I get what you are saying Doc. But sometimes front end issues can be mistaken as tyre issues and I remember you saying your son having issues with front end slides and wobbles on the old MRFs. What if it was a cone set or fork alignment issue. Maybe it is exaggerated with the different profile of the new tyre. They are not uncommon on these bikes. In fact, these bikes have front end issues from factory. Both Gixxers and V Stroms. It is an infamous issue. I had it on mine and trying to fix it was like chasing one's own tail . Fixed it 90% but it is still not perfect. Took apart and re-aligned the forks multiple times to get to a decent equilibrium on the front end. Probably will need some parts replacement to nail the alignment. And this bike was not dropped.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by b16h22

I I remember you saying your son having issues with front end slides and wobbles on the old MRFs. what if it was a cone set or fork alignment issue.

Yup. I am putting the same 2 n 2 together that you are. Thank you for this feedback. Have shown him the lower clamp pinch bolts (2 on each side), the 2 left fork leg axle pinch bolts, and the main top nut. He will go to the Gixxer premium showroom (the other Suzuki ones dont do Gixxers apparently) and get these looked at. Fingers crossed.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Guys what is the stock company spec chain sprocket gearing for the 2019 Suzuki Gixxer 250 SF? My son might have to go in for a chain sprocket kit replacement soon, at 18k kms on the oe stock chain the bike came with. And I'm thinking of getting either the fancy brass Rolon one or the fancier RK Takasago that my riding buddy @rb2399 swears by.

Cheers, Doc

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Guys what is the stock company spec chain sprocket gearing for the 2019 Suzuki Gixxer 250 SF?

Front sprocket: 13 teeth
Rear sprocket: 40 teeth
Chain: Pitch 520, 108 links

Rolon kit

Rolon Brass kit for SF250, this shows wrong specs though.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by sukiwa

Front sprocket: 13 teeth
Rear sprocket: 40 teeth
Chain: Pitch 520, 108 links

Rolon kit

Rolon Brass kit for SF250, this shows wrong specs though.

Thank you for coming over and helping out with his bike today. Did you ride it?

Will get the cone kit replaced. Wonder if the fork oil should be replaced once the fork is out?

Cheers, Doc

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Will get the cone kit replaced. Wonder if the fork oil should be replaced once the fork is out?

Cheers, Doc

Was it the cone set that made the steering heavy?
It is preferable but not necessary to replace the fork oil under 20k. If you are feeling that the forks are a bit mushy, do it .

[VijayAnand1]

As Sukiwa mentioned, both the Gixxer and the Strom have the same gearing ratio. The stock chain of the 250 series is supplied by DID-DAIDO. RK Takasago is simply 10x better than Rolon and I'd anyday recommend it.

Cheers!
VJ