[Full_Minchingu]

Originally Posted by TravelMonk

Hey all!

So my question to the experienced peeps here is, is that heavy, big, expensive crash guard really worth it?

Congratulations on the new ride, wish you many more happy miles ahead!!
Keep your riding and service details updated here.

Coming to your dilemma, I'd go for a factory fitted or basic crash guard to start with. As the above post clarifies, during a crash both the guard and fairing will take a hit. Then you will land up replacing both the fairing and expensive crash guard.

I had once seen a YouTube video where the rider had a small crash and the bike fell to his right. Look at the consequence below. Crash guard bent and frame broken, you can make small adjustments to the fill the crack but one fine day you have to replace it (Karizma-R owners will have many stories to tell).

[Proxima]

Originally Posted by TravelMonk

So my question to the experienced peeps here is, is that heavy, big, expensive crash guard really worth it?

100%. I dropped my Versys 1000 (which has a fairing) at standstill and there was no damage to the fairing at all. The crash guard took the impact completely. Mine is a Hepco and Becker crash guard.

I would advice you to go in for a good, branded crash guard. It's a worthwhile investment.

[TravelMonk]

Originally Posted by skviknaraj

Congratulations on the purchase, hope you have a great time with your bike.

Also you will adding more dead weight to a bike.

Thank you!
True about the dead weight.

Originally Posted by Full_Minchingu

Congratulations on the new ride, wish you many more happy miles ahead!!
Keep your riding and service details updated here.

I had once seen a YouTube video where the rider had a small crash and the bike fell to his right. Look at the consequence below.

Thank you and I'll be sure to post updates.
That image is EXACTLY one of my fears with a crash guard.

Originally Posted by Proxima

100%. Mine is a Hepco and Becker crash guard. I would advice you to go in for a good, branded crash guard. It's a worthwhile investment.

I'd trust such a reputed brand to make good quality guards, but the local ones available for Vstrom, umm, I'm a bit skeptical.
For now, I'll get the small Suzuki guard, which has performed as it should for some people on the internet, and think about an adventure type guard if a trusted brand releases one, or if they make it compact and lighter.

[neil.jericho]

Im part of a few Whatsapp groups for Kerala based Suzuki 250 owners, including one that has mostly Vstrom 250 owners. Recently there was a discussion on how a few VStrom 250 owners faced the common issue of the clutch cable snapping unexpectedly. These bikes had only done between 8,000 to 14,000 kms and the owners were caught off-guard by this problem.

Several owners have also complained that the clutch feels "tight" and / or gear shifting is hard. After each service the gear shifts become easy but then it goes back to its old behaviour.

Just sharing these for the benefit of other Suzuki VStrom 250 owners.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Im part of a few Whatsapp groups for Kerala based Suzuki 250 owners, including one that has mostly Vstrom 250 owners. Recently there was a discussion on how a few VStrom 250 owners faced the common issue of the clutch cable snapping unexpectedly. These bikes had only done between 8,000 to 14,000 kms and the owners were caught off-guard by this problem.

Several owners have also complained that the clutch feels "tight" and / or gear shifting is hard. After each service the gear shifts become easy but then it goes back to its old behaviour.

Are they by any chance using the same clutch cable from the Gixxers? If it is the same part, it could be the extra tension on the cable thanks to a taller and wider handle bar setup of the Strom causing a premature failure. Especially if the clutch lever is set with inadequate free play.

[whencut86]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Several owners have also complained that the clutch feels "tight" and / or gear shifting is hard. After each service the gear shifts become easy but then it goes back to its old behaviour.

It is actually a pain in traffic, particularly Bangalore traffic where your hands start paining with the heavier clutch if in peak traffic. Gear shift is very hard and makes its presence felt when shifting up.

My front brake pads got worn out in 2000 odd kms. The brake pads are worst in VStrom and I suspect that maybe more firm usage due to less bite in the brakes maybe a reason for them wearing out soon. No other complaints other than these 3 and this makes it kind of tough to live with in city traffic. I am seriously looking at swapping with the Triumph Scrambler 400X for the lighter clutch and smoother gear shifting it offers. The seat height is the same and won't be too much of a stretch budget wise as well post the swap.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by whencut86

It is actually a pain in traffic, particularly Bangalore traffic where your hands start paining with the heavier clutch if in peak traffic. Gear shift is very hard and makes its presence felt when shifting up.

My front brake pads got worn out in 2000 odd kms. The brake pads are worst in VStrom and I suspect that maybe more firm usage due to less bite in the brakes maybe a reason for them wearing out soon. No other complaints other than these 3 and this makes it kind of tough to live with in city traffic. I am seriously looking at swapping with the Triumph Scrambler 400X for the lighter clutch and smoother gear shifting it offers. The seat height is the same and won't be too much of a stretch budget wise as well post the swap.

Try setting a 3-4mm free play in the clutch lever if you haven't. My Gixxer 250 was very sensitive to clutch lever free play and the above setup made shifts really smooth and precise. Earlier, I had the same hard shifts. I'm also running Motul 7100 w50 oil and that made shifts much better than the stock Ecstar w40. It is an anecdotal observation though

[Sebring]

Its a loot. Mine were changed at first service itself. Will shift to Vesrah next

Originally Posted by whencut86

My front brake pads got worn out in 2000 odd kms.

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Recently there was a discussion on how a few VStrom 250 owners faced the common issue of the clutch cable snapping unexpectedly. These bikes had only done between 8,000 to 14,000 kms and the owners were caught off-guard by this problem.

Will keep an eye on clutch cable as mine is in same odo range.

Originally Posted by b16h22

Are they by any chance using the same clutch cable from the Gixxers?

What's part number for clutch cable used for other Suzuki 250cc siblings?
I had picked up a spare clutch cable (along with Accelerator cables) for V-strom in Nov'22 and part number was '58200-20L00-000' with packaging of April '22. Packaging time frame shows that it's a common part, curious to know part number used in siblings.

Originally Posted by b16h22

I'm also running Motul 7100 w50 oil and that made shifts much better than the stock Ecstar w40.

Does this mean you have shifted engine oil to 10w50 instead of 10w40 or was it a typo?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by sukiwa

What's part number for clutch cable used for other Suzuki 250cc siblings?
I had picked up a spare clutch cable (along with Accelerator cables) for V-strom in Nov'22 and part number was '58200-20L00-000' with packaging of April '22. Packaging time frame shows that it's a common part, curious to know part number used in siblings.

It is 58200-41KC0-000 for the naked Gixxer 250 and 58200-41K00-000 for the SF 250. These are obtained from older parts catalogue. So I assume it is not the same or it is an improved part in newer 250 models. I did notice that the metallic sleeve over Strom's and new 2023 Gixxer's clutch cable are not painted black like old Gixxer twins.

Originally Posted by sukiwa

Does this mean you have shifted engine oil to 10w50 instead of 10w40 or was it a typo?

Yes I have. I bought a pre-owned Gixxer 250 and it had the infamous vibes so the oil grade change was completely an experiment to observe if there are any improvements in vibes. Might go back to 10W40 later to compare the differences. That said, my bike is a lot better compared to when I initially got it thanks to some TLC. The 6k+ buzz still exists on handle bars and other places. I see most Strom owners don't suffer from annoying vibes yet.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Im part of a few Whatsapp groups for Kerala based Suzuki 250 owners, including one that has mostly Vstrom 250 owners. Recently there was a discussion on how a few VStrom 250 owners faced the common issue of the clutch cable snapping unexpectedly. These bikes had only done between 8,000 to 14,000 kms and the owners were caught off-guard by this problem.

Several owners have also complained that the clutch feels "tight" and / or gear shifting is hard. After each service the gear shifts become easy but then it goes back to its old behaviour.

Just sharing these for the benefit of other Suzuki VStrom 250 owners.

Neil, your timing was to the dot. Second service for my Strom was due and sadly ended up at lunch hour and had to spend the next 40 mins squandering around the showroom, that's when I saw a serviced Yellow KL registered V-Strom. This bike was kitted with handlebar risers installed from Motowolf.

Wanted to get a feel for the difference these risers make hence requested the manager if I could swing a leg over and he was polite enough to allow me, as long as I don't start the bike. With that being said, the first thing I observed was the crunchy clutch lever and an equally crunchy throttle tube operation.

The clutch lever had an abrasive crunchy-ish operation and incidentally the throttle was hard to operate with the same traits as the clutch lever. Though the freeplay was lesser than recommended, I reckon these handlebar risers indirectly contribute to this causation.

Though the bike was well kitted with stand extender, handlebar risers, saddlestay and crash bungs, it just didn't ooze the fact it wasn't taken care of well. I always say, irrespective of motorcycle, make it habit to "lube clutch perch and cable periodically with engine oil or sewing machine oil" and not grease. They make a world of a difference.

Originally Posted by b16h22

Are they by any chance using the same clutch cable from the Gixxers? If it is the same part, it could be the extra tension on the cable thanks to a taller and wider handle bar setup of the Strom causing a premature failure. Especially if the clutch lever is set with inadequate free play. It is 58200-41KC0-000 for the naked Gixxer 250 and 58200-41K00-000 for the SF 250. These are obtained from older parts catalogue. So I assume it is not the same or it is an improved part in newer 250 models. I did notice that the metallic sleeve over Strom's and new 2023 Gixxer's clutch cable are not painted black like old Gixxer twins.

The cable of Gixxer 250 and the V-Strom 250 are both completely different. I did inquire the same with the parts manager and he mentioned the inner sheath for the Strom is slightly thicker and longer as compared to the G250.

Originally Posted by b16h22

Try setting a 3-4mm free play in the clutch lever if you haven't. My Gixxer 250 was very sensitive to clutch lever free play and the above setup made shifts really smooth and precise. Earlier, I had the same hard shifts. I'm also running Motul 7100 w50 oil and that made shifts much better than the stock Ecstar w40. It is an anecdotal observation though

I remember answering your post in xBhp to set the freeplay a wee bit above, it helps reduce the crunchy gearshifts, with only gripe being the clutch has to be released a lil' bit far to get the vehicle moving. Here's where freeplay comes to play. Too much and too little, you burn the clutch plates with too little being more deterimental. Too high would mean no freeplay and you burn the clutch as you leave no space for clutch expansion. Too little would mean, you wear the gear shaft, clutch plates and end up with less mileage and accidental clutch grazing.

If I were to give one friendly advice to all Strom and Gixxer 250 owners, chuck w40 and stick to w50 and see the magic.

Cheers!
VJ

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

I remember answering your post in xBhp to set the freeplay a wee bit above, it helps reduce the crunchy gearshifts, with only gripe being the clutch has to be released a lil' bit far to get the vehicle moving. Here's where freeplay comes to play. Too much and too little, you burn the clutch plates with too little being more deterimental. Too high would mean no freeplay and you burn the clutch as you leave no space for clutch expansion. Too little would mean, you wear the gear shaft, clutch plates and end up with less mileage and accidental clutch grazing.

Yes Vijay, embarrassingly it took me a good while to find the right free play thanks to previous owner's base setting. In fact I was getting a little bit of clutch slip until I found out there was not enough play . For some reason it was not as obvious on the suzuki's clutch operation compared to bike's I've owned before. This turned out to be the reason for the hesitation I was having when opening the throttle at low rpms after a full closure and the delay in response after gearshifts at lower speeds. I honestly thought it was a fueling glitch.

Not sure if the previous owner ran it like this for all it's life. I hope my clutch plates are not glazed. It feels pretty fine now and pulls fairly clean at all speeds. Only way to make sure is ride another 250

[Sebring]

This is true. I have CR risers and the throttle tube is from RE. My neighbourhood garage Asura fixed it for me. I think CR also send/sent one along with the box, not sure

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

This bike was kitted with handlebar risers installed from Motowolf. Wanted to get a feel for the difference these risers make hence requested the manager if I could swing a leg over and he was polite enough to allow me, as long as I don't start the bike. With that being said, the first thing I observed was the crunchy clutch lever and an equally crunchy throttle tube operation. The clutch lever had an abrasive crunchy-ish operation and incidentally the throttle was hard to operate with the same traits as the clutch lever. Though the freeplay was lesser than recommended, I reckon these handlebar risers indirectly contribute to this causation

[TravelMonk]

After a lot of brainstorming, finally got the baby Strom!

I'm 6 ft tall and habitual to a Thunderbird. All my impressions/observations come from this perspective.

Just a few initial impressions - first 100 kms
1. Gear shifts are very hard.
2. You have to pull the clutch all the way in to start the bike, two finger operation is doable only if you don't keep the other two fingers on the grip. Yet to check the free play.
3. Out of the RE habit, I found myself changing the gears at around 2.5k RPM in traffic. You can gently accelerate in higher gears, the bike doesn't knock, but hard acceleration requires downshift.
4. Horn is useless for highways (especially coming from the old loud stock RE horns)
5. I have to bend quite a bit for saddling, will have to add handlebar risers for a comfortable position (although reading the above posts about it potentially hampering the clutch and throttle feel, I'm not gonna immediately opt for them)
6. I would've liked the mirrors a bit taller.
7. Newer V-Stroms come with balancing weight on both wheels from factory, checked 4-5 new bikes in the showroom, all had them. Possibly to counter the left-pulling phenomenon? I'm yet to test that.
8. On someone's previous post on this thread, I saw the rev limiter was set to 7k out of factory. Mine isn't. Possibly set at 10k, but didn't redline yet.

Can't wait to get over with the first service to truly utilize the bike!
On that note, I would love to connect with V-Strom owners in Pune!

Here's the "senior" Thunderbird and the new addition-

[vvs29]

The service center called me yesterday that Suzuki has asked to replace the camshaft and they will notify me when the part has arrived. Anyone else get the same call?