[Riroox]

Got my 3M 160GSM PPF done to my Aerox after destickering it, have to say, really liking the way it looks now.

Got it done at MotoDrift, HSR Layout, Bangalore. They did a nice job on it, took them 7 hours straight and asked about whether to cut around the logo emblem or to remove it and stick it back which is good attention to customer requirements I feel.

Now, just need to change out the instrument cluster shroud for a gloss black one.

[quicksilver101]

Originally Posted by quicksilver101

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5675963 (Ownership Review | 2022 Yamaha Aerox 155 | Racing Blue)

I had also bought a bigger front brake disc, which had arrived (₹5200 + ₹200 shipping). So got these three parts installed for ₹600 from the same person. All the front panels were removed and refitted, and the brake pads were cleaned, too.

Attachment 2549145

Attachment 2549144

The stock Aerox front disc is 230mm, I believe, while this one is 265mm. This should hopefully help improve the bite of the front disc and give better stopping confidence at speeds above 60kmph.

However, something I don't see a lot of people mention is that changing the front disc requires a ~50-100km run-in period. During this period (i.e. immediately after the installation of new brake disc), there is practically no stopping power. The bike takes 3-5 business days to stop even when you jam down the front brakes

The front brakes started off at about 10% braking power, and gradually, I feel it is now at about 25% run-in. It's still nowhere near confidence-inducing, and I am strictly within 50kmph with adequate gaps since it's all rear brake for now. I hoped to have known this before going ahead with the upgrade, but oh well, maybe it helps someone else on the internet. I'll report back once I get the panel and when the brakes have run in.

Following up on this: I've clocked like 150-200kms+ since last update, and the brakes are better than stock once they run in properly. The squishiness is gone. Now I get good feedback irrespective of how tight/lose I jam the front brake. There's more confidence at higher speeds now, though I haven't had any good opportunities to go above 70+.

The cost of the disc upgrade was high though, so I am not sure if I can recommend to everyone. If you feel the brakes are fine and you don't regularly go above 70+kmph, then a disc brake upgrade can be skipped.

Here are the changes I have made to my Aerox, ranked in order of what I would recommend to others:

• KTC Racing Extreme suspensions (changing stock suspensions is highly recommended change, can choose cheaper alternatives)
• Stiffer side stand spring (very cheap upgrade that is highly recommended that would save you a lot of money on unnecessary panel replacements)
• Tyre hugger (optional/discretionary, but go for it if you like your Aerox cleaner)
• Bigger disc brake (advised if you are unsatisfied with current braking)
• Grocery hook in the front (discretionary, depending on needs)
• Knuckle guard (optional, vibrates a lot)
• Side stand shoe (skippable, doesn't do much)
• Tank pad sticker (cosmetic)
• Tyre rim stickers (cosmetic)

Other repairs I have had to do:

• 2x replacement of left front panel
• Replaced rear air filter cover
• Replaced headlight unit crib

Upgrades I still want to do:

• Fix the front suspension somehow (oil change/upgrade kit/usd fork swap)
• Better seat
• Headlight pass switch
• Better mirrors
• Better headlight
• Get some under seat storage organizer panel

[Riroox]

Another update/upgrade to my Aerox,

Got the seat reshaped and had extra cushion added, also the necessary change in seat cover at Rao Seat Covers, Bangalore. I am taller than typical at 189CM or about 6 feet and 2 inches in height and so had the seat sculpted to fit me better which did compromise the rear seat room but not by much. Further still had more foam added to increase the seat height both front and back and that actually does make it a little difficult to climb onto the rear seat.

Really liking the new seat set up and is finally comfortable for a 2 hour commute or a 4 hour ride. Haven't yet been able to go for longer rides.

I really need to do something about the front suspension. It squats to about 75% travel when I sit on the scooter and to nearly full travel if someone sits behind too. I, for certain had thought that there was a manufacturing fault with it but then found out online and later at the showroom that is how it is supposed to be, so I tried to get the oil replaced to 20w instead of the alleged stock 10w but the mechanic could not as the shock is sealed up top with a c clip holding in the lid and for now I am stuck with it. Thinking of getting good quality adjustable front forks, probably USD and just add the upgraded braking system while I am there. Also, am I the only one who wants to very much upgrade the front suspension before tackling the rear? Just wondering...

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by Riroox

I really need to do something about the front suspension. It squats to about 75% travel when I sit on the scooter and to nearly full travel if someone sits behind too.

The kind of fork caps that are secured with a C Clip are found on Access 125s as well. I have done fork oil changes a few times on mine.

The trick to get them out is to have an extra pair of hands to help push the fork cap down. Push the fork cap down using a long tool, something like a long extension would do. This releases the tension on the C Clip. Now use a sharp and pointy tool (preferably thin) like an O ring picker or something and push it into the gap between the fork tube and C Clip. You have to do it 180 degree opposite to the opening of the clip. Once you get the tool into the gap, push on the clip so it compresses and gets out of its groove. Might sound like a tedious process but it is easy once you get the knack of it.

On the case of suspension sag, it is a safer bet to add preload spacers in small height increments (5-10mm) so you can dial in the sag for your weight. I don't think Aerox comes with a factory preload spacer like motorcycle forks because there is very little suspension travel being a scooter. So any chances of adding a bigger spacer might be out of the question. You can try sourcing thick steel washers that fit into the fork tubes and try setting the preload and sag correctly. It is a trial and error process though.

I wouldn't recommend going to 20W oil from 10W. Fork oil weight doesn't affect suspension travel and sag. But it might mess up your damping and rebound enough to make the ride harsh and your handling may go for a toss because the wheel doesn't rebound quick enough over a bumpy road to keep good road contact

[Riroox]

Originally Posted by b16h22

The kind of fork caps that are secured with a C Clip are found on Access 125s as well. I have done fork oil changes a few times on mine.

Thanks a lot for the method on how to disassemble the forks, I shall get this tried out at another service shop.

About the preload and sag, I think the only option is see what can be done once I have the forks disassembled. Maybe, swap out springs, I am not sure.

I want to add heavier fork to increase the compression damping, because it is like a soft pogo stick right now. The stock forks will be just a temporary unit as I do plan on getting good quality fully adjustable forks later on.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by Riroox

I want to add heavier fork to increase the compression damping, because it is like a soft pogo stick right now. The stock forks will be just a temporary unit as I do plan on getting good quality fully adjustable forks later on.

If that is the case, going to 15w might be a safer bet. I remember trying out 20w Motul on the access which comes with 10w by default and the scooter felt planted on really good roads but felt really harsh on anything less than perfect road conditions. Went back to stock Ecstar oil within a week. There is only so much you can do to these basic forks.

[Riroox]

Originally Posted by b16h22

If that is the case, going to 15w might be a safer bet. I remember trying out 20w Motul on the access which comes with 10w by default and the scooter felt planted on really good roads but felt really harsh on anything less than perfect road conditions. Went back to stock Ecstar oil within a week. There is only so much you can do to these basic forks.

I might have to look into 15w then, it is a little harder to source. I am primarily trying to match the front to the rear and as probably everyone and Yamaha know that the rear is really harsh.

Both ends being harsh should at least make for a more predictable ride. Currently, the scooter bounces the front ever so slightly at higher speeds. The comfort as it is not so good as the scooter bottoms out everywhere anyways and that won't change much with oil.

Side note:
I had once messed around with a hero hf 100 and had turned it into a pseudo scrambler. Even that would nearly bottom from me just sitting on it so I had just replaced the rear shocks altogether and with the front I had added 1 inch spacers and 20w fork oil which made a huge difference, it was even nicer than my NS200 stunt bike project which still had bone stock suspension but with a weight loss of about 11KG.

This is why I thought that maybe doing a similar thing with my aerox would be at least a stop-gap solution until upgrades.

[NomadSK]

Originally Posted by quicksilver101

The stock Aerox front disc is 230mm, I believe, while this one is 265mm. This should hopefully help improve the bite of the front disc and give better stopping confidence at speeds above 60kmph.

Technically something doesn’t add up, with the same surface area of the brake pads contact with the disc, no change in the hydraulic pressure (Pascals Law) and same thickness of the break disc, I think, you would get the same bite from the disc whatever the diameter of the disc as long as contact surface area between brake pads and disc remains the same.

Only with bigger disc diameter, heat dissipation would be better and probably better aesthetic looks.

Or Am I missing something ?

Edit - contact surface “ANGLE” of brake pads has nothing to do with Pressure/Area relationship. Yeh would like someone to chime in with the exact know how.

[quicksilver101]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

Technically something doesn’t add up, with the same surface area of the brake pads contact with the disc, no change in the hydralic pressure (Pascals Law) and same thickness of the break disc, I think, you would get the same bite from the disc whatever the diameter of the disc as long as contact surface area between brake pads and disc remains the same.

Only with bigger disc diameter, heat dissipation would be better and probably better aesthetic looks.

Or Am I missing something ?

Per my very rudimentary knowledge on this: I believe there is a change in the contact surface angle. Bigger discs come with adaptors to accommodate the larger size. It also changes the angle at which the brake pads grip the brake disc. I am not sure if the total area changes or not.

You can see the pics of the adaptor used and how the brake pads change position and angle.

Maybe others well versed with this can chime in. I know my confidence has changed with how I brake, and it's unlikely to be a placebo since I felt the immediate drop in braking power when I had freshly swapped.

[Otto]

Originally Posted by b16h22

Being a single pot setup, the bigger disc alone might not be enough for a significant improvement in bite. If you haven't changed the pads, it makes sense to try out more aggressive pads as next step. That said, you might need a caliper and master cylinder upgrade to get what you are looking for .

Yup, just getting a larger disc without doing anything else to the braking system is like putting a racing stripe on your car and expecting it to go faster.

you just replaced something that was tried and tested with something that is too cheap to pass PE in a government school.

Take care not to make things worse my brother.

[HYPERTOURER]

Originally Posted by Otto

Yup, just getting a larger disc without doing anything else to the braking system is like putting a racing stripe on your car and expecting it to go faster.

you just replaced something that was tried and tested with something that is too cheap to pass PE in a government school.

Take care not to make things worse my brother.

True that. Just getting a larger disk makes no sense apart from the looks. The Aerox has a terribly small master cylinder that can't even power the stock caliper properly and that's why the bad front brakes. First order of business should be Master Cylinder and then caliper. The disk will only improve bite. I have seen so many people talk otherwise but it's just in the head and nothing else. Practically a bigger disk with stock caliper and master won't make any difference.

Coming to the testing part. These are extensively used in South East Asia so yes they might not be certified but they are used without issues. Also heard quite a few people talk that there are japanese brands etc. Let's get things clear that all these aftermarket are usually manufactured in China Thailand or Malaysia. More so China.

[Riroox]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

Technically something doesn’t add up, with the same surface area of the brake pads contact with the disc, no change in the hydraulic pressure (Pascals Law) and same thickness of the break disc, I think, you would get the same bite from the disc whatever the diameter of the disc as long as contact surface area between brake pads and disc remains the same.

Only with bigger disc diameter, heat dissipation would be better and probably better aesthetic looks.

Or Am I missing something ?

Edit - contact surface “ANGLE” of brake pads has nothing to do with Pressure/Area relationship. Yeh would like someone to chime in with the exact know how.

A larger brake discs will provide more stopping power because the larger diameter will give more leverage, fulcrum physics. Even with the same biting force from the calipers, since the distance between the centre of the disk to the biting area is larger there is more braking force.

It can also increase the feeling so to speak which inherently will give more confidence and there is always the heat dissipation benefit too.

[scorpian]

Does anyone have a issue of their front suspension making a thud noise when going over a bump on the road?
I have this in my bike, and I feel the front fork is loose. Can feel the movement when I squeeze the front brake and push it downwards.
Also the rear brake is as good as nil.

Bike has just done 70kms. I gave a feedback to the showroom and they asked me to get it to the service centre so that they can adjust the fork.

[Mapogostrength]

I got my new Aerox in September 2023 and have done 4600kms on the ODO until now. After my first service, I started getting a weird kind of noise, and the brake pads were worn out after 1500kms so I had to replace them. When I took to the Bikerz Yamaha service center in Chennai, they mentioned the noise might be due to water wash and nothing to worry about.

But the noise kept getting louder and louder as my odo started to munch more miles. After a point it became unavoidable.

When I took it for the second service, they mentioned the noise indeed was different and had to be looked after and asked me to leave the bike in the showroom. After 7 days of repeated calls, the service center mentioned the noise was coming from the head of the bike and they were unsure of what is the problem.

They are sending the bike to the factory for the Yamaha officials to look after the same. After 2 more days of painful waiting and repeated calling they asked me to pick up the bike as they couldn't reach Yamaha and they will get back to me later.



But when I took the bike back, the airbox was completely scratched and looked old. It looks like it was changed with some other. After I asked them about it both the numbers of the service person is also switched off.

I am unable to reach Yamaha officials regarding the same. If anyone has any contacts that I can reach regarding this, it would be really helpful.

I also want to know is there any chance of getting my bike replaced with a new one as it has not even completed 6 months. Any advice/suggestions on further actions are welcome.

Even after buying the expensive maxi scooter in the segment, if this is the kind of service one has to receive from Yamaha it is really pathetic.

[Riroox]

Originally Posted by scorpian

Does anyone have a issue of their front suspension making a thud noise when going over a bump on the road?
I have this in my bike, and I feel the front fork is loose. Can feel the movement when I squeeze the front brake and push it downwards.
Also the rear brake is as good as nil.

Bike has just done 70kms. I gave a feedback to the showroom and they asked me to get it to the service centre so that they can adjust the fork.

I might know what you are talking about, went to the showroom for the first services with the same complaints and they did not fix anything and said that it is how it supposed to be and there is nothing wrong.

I assume that you feel like the forks are too soft and not just shaking about. Every small bump bottoms out the forks and you can hear a loud noise almost every time.

If the showroom does not do anything about it like in my case, here is what I did.

I had some other garage replace the fork oil with Motul 20w fork oil but I am on the bigger and heavier side so you can try 15w fork oil. A little hard to find but if it is not available then you can go for 20w. Ask the mechanic to measure the oil quantity in each fork respectively, there should be about 55ml of oil each. I had 65ml filled in each fork but 60ml each works too for a slightly suppler feel. Do not fill beyond 65ml and make sure there are equal amounts of oil in both forks. The forks have to be perfectly aligned when be refitted or the scooter might drag to the left or right slightly.

For the braking, especially the rear, the best way I've found to improve them for almost free is to just find an empty area and repeatedly hard-brake after reaching incrementally higher speeds. It is not good to brake far too hard as all the cables and joints are new and they need time to break in and seat in properly. A slightly less budget friendly option is to get imported brake shoes for drum brakes for the Aerox.

The rear might skid with really hard braking as there is no ABS, so please be cautious.

Even the front brakes will improved after a few hard stops, the brake pads will seat to the brake disk better and also the oils still present on the disk will be wiped off. You can also find out how it feels when the ABS activates. You might find that the front wheel still might slip a little, so again, please be cautious.

This is just my experience and advice derived from the same.

Hope this helps.