[sandeepmohan]

This was a ride that I've been waiting to do for a while, after a colleague told me about the place. The destination is called Pongaroa. Its about 190km from Wellington. It has been a challenge to get out and do day long rides as I have child care duties on Saturday. The only day I get to spend time with my wife and son is on a Sunday and I don't want to leave them to figure out their plans. The weather forecast indicated it was going to be a good day. My wife said I should do this ride as I've been wanting to get an entire day on the road.

New Zealand winters are brutal. From May to September, it gets freezing cold. We don't get snow or ice in Wellington but the artic breeze makes it way towards Aotearoa (New Zealand in Maori). Weather is unpredictable and the real feel of temperature is generally lower than what it is. None of this is ideal for motorcycle riding. When a good day presents itself or you see it coming, you start making plans to hit the road on your bike, cycle or just go for a walk or hike.

Pongaroa is mostly a nothing town. Wikipedia suggests a population size of a 100 people! What is important about this town, its the birthplace of Maurice Wilkins. Originally an Englishman born in Pongaroa, New Zealand. He is best know for his work on the structure of DNA. When I read that, I was stumped. I had to visit this place.

I looked up Google maps and figured 50% of the distance was familiar territory. The last ~90km was unknown. With an approximate idea of direction and turns to be made, I set out at 8am on Sunday morning. Temperature was around 8 degrees. Had my new Ixon Gotham inner jacket and new Dri Rider Explorer gloves to try. The cold gets to me quick. Any little bit of wind seeping through your riding gear is enough to spoil the ride and cause the body to go into over drive to stay warm. You don't want Hypothermia setting in. The start of my ride did not go so well. At 100Kmph, the air felt colder than the suggested temperature and my fingers were freezing. My body temperature was okay. The inner jacket was effective of sorts. Would be nice to stay absolutely warm but even 4 layers on inner thermals were not enough. What made matters worse was riding against a sunrise. While New Zealand does not see extreme hot temperatures, our sun is extremely harsh. I had to deal with that sunrise for a good hour. As my direction of travel changed slowly, the sun had slowly moved to my left, which was much better.

A Honda Africa Twin kept company for some distance. The rider was kitted out with a riding suit and had a nice set of white led auxiliary lamps. He got ahead of me once we got to the Remutaka Hills. The cold and damp surface did not give me the confidence to lean the bike too much so I took it easy up and down the hills.

My first pit stop was the town of Masterton. Pulled over to withdraw some money, topped up fuel and headed straight for the nice warmth of a cafe for a light breakfast, which was a Croissant and a Flat white coffee. The cafe had their gas heater in full blast and it was nice and toasty inside. Was here for about 30 minutes.

The next part of the journey (Masterton to Pongaroa) was going to be unknown territory and on a road I have never been on. I was looking forward to it. The road did not disappoint. It was 90km of twists and turns. As a result of which, I was not going too fast. I could see snow capped mountains in the distance and some road signs suggesting to take it easy as the wet surface on the road might be frost and in a shaded area (Which were many), you won't know what you are riding on. I did notice some algae on shaded parts of the road. This section of the road was deserted. I crossed a group of Japanese sport motorcycle riders and a few UTE's. Other than this, there were some earth moving equipment taking a much needed Sunday break. I saw more sheep than humans! First stop was Alfredton. If there is one thing I have noticed about New Zealand, is that they have schools even in the most remote of places. Education is treated or seen as a priority. The Alfredton school was the biggest building in this little farming (I assume) village. Other than this, there was little else. I stopped to take some pictures and resumed journey.

I am sure most can relate to this when they travel. You are driving or riding and you come across landscape that is picturesque and you keep stopping to take pictures. You preview your photos only to realize that you simply can't capture the breadth of the landscape as seen by your eyes. I was going through this phase by stopping every few kilometers to take pictures. It was beautiful. I could not get enough of it. I made a final stop to admire the hill ranges at Tiraumea after which it was non stop to Pongaroa.

I reached Pongaroa at ~1215pm. A good 4 hours to cover ~190km. The first thing to greet me was a self serve Allied gas station, an intersection and then the towns only Restaurant. I parked my motorcycle, walked around a bit, took some pictures and got a nice kiwi burger for lunch. I got a few stares at the restaurant. This is a place that hardly sees visitors and the only folks in there were people who knew each other. With a population of ~100, that is how it is. The wall mounted TV had pre recorded content from good old MTV days. Time does stand still in some places. I ordered food at the counter and decided to sit out in their outdoor space with the sun right over me. I needed warmth and wanted to absorb as much as I could. There were two other couples and a couple of kids playing around. Other than this, it was as peaceful as it can get. I thought there would be a memorial of sorts to remember Maurice Wilkins. I did not find any. I walked around a bit more after lunch. There was a grocery store that appeared shut (for good), a fire station, the old Telegraph office, a farm center, the Akitio County War memorial, a lodge, a public restroom (with wheel chair access) and Our Lady of The Rosary church which looked like it had not seen a service in over a decade.

In the time I was at Pongaroa, a few motorcycle riders passed, none stopped. An elderly couple on two Harley Davidsons pulled over. They were coming from Palmerston North. The old man had taken a tumble on a sweeping bend (I can't imagine falling of a Harley Davidson). He could not get off his motorbike. His partner helped him. He was limping but did not seem too hurt to not continue riding. We exchanged pleasantries, praising the good weather, which does not come very often on a winter day. Aside from the ~20kmph wind gusts, it was a nice day to ride. I wished them well and headed off.

I took a slight detour on my return via the town of Eketahuna. Zooming in on the maps for this particular region, one can see several roads snaking their way through all the different villages and towns. I thought I'd give it a go as the road would eventually bring me back to state highway 2 which is the main highway back to Wellington. Once again, I was mesmerized with the beautiful landscape, cows and sheep grazing, small streams. Nature in all its beauty. Untouched.

The return trip was mostly uneventful. A little bit of weekend traffic was present but not terrible. Just after Featherston town, we head up the Remutaka range. There was a slow down of vehicles just before the ghat section starts. At a point, I noticed glass all over the road and a windscreen rubber beading. Negotiated the stretch slowly. Hundred meters down the road was UTE parked on the side. It was towing a camper van and the rear windscreen of the campervan had fallen. They were probably on the phone with the fire service department to come clear the area.

I reached home at quarter past 6pm, not feeling too tired. I noticed I had clocked 450km on the trip meter. I guess I could ride another 200km, if I had to. The bike performed well. A little discomfort on the knee due to the feet behind position of the Interceptor. I do miss the comfort of my old Enfield 500. Nothing beats it for rider comfort. I had strapped up my Trip Machine military duffel bag for this trip. Not that I needed to carry luggage but I did need a water bottle and did not want to carry anything on my shoulder. I stuffed the entire bag with clothes and the water bottle. Nothing like giving yourself the feeling that you are on a marathon road trip. I had to make a couple of adjustments to the bag straps as it was shifting from side to side. Nothing that could not be solved easily. For those considering this bag, its a eyes closed purchase. You can carry up to a weeks worth of clothes and cram a few spare bits for your bike. Just don't bother with folding your clothes or expecting them to stay crease free. The bag looks the part too.

What this trip offered was a much needed escape to a forgotten land. To see and experience what life is like in a quiet, sleepy town. There is little else other than farming going on in these places. New Zealand is dotted with hundreds of these little towns. I don't think I'll be able to see them all. For the few I can, I want to make the trip. In this case, it was to remember Maurice Wilkins and for his contribution to science and medicine.

Pit stop at Alfredton School


The hills around Tiraumea


The white building is Tiraumea Hall


The main street at Pongaroa. Yes, that's all there is to it. The white building on the right is the hotel (More a restaurant) where I had lunch.


Pongaroa Post and Telegraph office


Akitio Country War memorial


Puketoi Lodge. It is possible to book a stay here via phone or Air BnB. Accommodation is shared.


Fire station on the left and Farm Centre


Our Lady of the Rosary church


Somewhere between Pongaroa and Tiraumea



On the way back home, between Alfredton and Eketahuna


The busy State Highway 2 between Eketahuna and Masterton


Needs no introduction. A heck of a good motorcycle by Royal Enfield.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[pannags]

Brilliantly described. The pictures look like they've come straight out of a Condé Nast Traveler!

As for the act, it goes right into my to-do-someday list!

[TheHelix0202]

My obsession with the Interceptor increases from day to day! Such a fabulous machine. Brilliant pics!

[maverickNerd]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

This was a ride that I've been waiting to do for a while, after a colleague told me about the place. The destination is called

Looks like a great ride, can you please tell what is the best time to visit NewZealand if someone wants to come from India, and cities to visit.

[OffRoadFun]

Wow! Must have been a beautiful and enjoyable drive.
It's my dream to visit NZ and explore the natural beauty, especially those peaks, lakes and forests in the southern island. Down Under is so serene, sparsely populated and safe. Ideal for cross country camping too!

[JoshMachine]

Nice, crisp travelogue to start off a Tuesday here in India

Ah! That lure of the quaint wild countryside! I only have words to imagine the feeling that you might have experienced on your bike.

You are not doing enough justice to this experience though, you have shared hardly any pics of the NZ wayside

[a_chelat]

The pictures look amazing. Can only imagine how it would feel riding around these beautiful country roads

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by maverickNerd

Looks like a great ride, can you please tell what is the best time to visit NewZealand if someone wants to come from India, and cities to visit.

December to March is most suited to us. This is Summer time for New Zealand.

When I say summer in New Zealand, you're still going to be dealing with 10 to 15 degrees morning temperature and a maximum of 30 degrees, depending on what part of New Zealand you are going to be. The Coromandel region is where it gets the hottest and that is the North Island.

There are just 3 main cities. Auckland (Like Bombay to us), the capital Wellington and Christchurch.

If you are after shopping, then there is only one city to visit, that is Auckland. The capital, Wellington is okay. It is so small that you can see the entire city in less than an hour if you just drive around.

New Zealand has the North and South Island. Most tourists fly straight to Christchurch, as the South Island is considered most beautiful. All the Instagrammers and social media clan flock to all the top spots for pictures as the south island is known for that. I will admit that the South Island is the prettier of the two.

The South Island is all about hills and rivers. The North Island is all about flat land and hills. The South Island sees snow and is also colder. Its also less populated.

If you are strapped for time, then you want to head straight to the South Island and cover as much as you can. If you have time on your hands, you want to see the North Island too.

The most popular destination in the South Island is Queenstown. It is, as the name suggest, just a town. A small and pretty town. Also the most expensive in New Zealand. Let that not discourage you from going there though. You must see it. If you can deal with the cold (As in, come in Winter), its even prettier actually.

Travelling in New Zealand is best done by road, if you really want to see the country. While flying will save you heaps of time, you will miss the beauty of this country. We drive everywhere and in the process visit many little towns and villages like Pongaroa. There are so many. Driving is slow in New Zealand and I've come to make peace with the conservative speed limits. While making plans, don't push for covering more than 500km in a day. Any more than this and you are rushing it.

While you make plans, make sure you factor a few hikes (or atleast one day for it). There are several easy ones to do. Its one of those things you must do as it takes you to places so remote and beautiful.

Hit me up when you are closer to making your trip. With the borders still closed it maybe a while.

Originally Posted by OffRoadFun

Ideal for cross country camping too!

New Zealand is camping haven. There are so many camping spots and huts. Its safe too as there are no wild animals. We have done only one and that was a more a luxury way of camping in a holiday park. The Government owned Doc sites are on another level as far as location goes. They go deep and remote. Here is one location, as an example. Rosie Bay

As you will see, there is a category, type of camping allowed, facilities offered. Very basic and good enough to keep you going. Mostly cold showers so that is something you will have to manage. The water is ice cold even in summers. Then again, you may not need to shower every day as its a clean, pollution free environment. A wash may do and a shower every other day.

[maverickNerd]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

December to March is most suited to us. This is Summer time for New Zealand.

Thanks for detailed reply. Will contact you once the borders are open.

[Annibaddh]

Absolutely love your narrative style dude. @sandeepmohan. Brilliantly described. Made me want to step out right away, get there and spend the rest of te day sipping coffee and exchanging pleasantries for the rest of the day. I love secluded places with a trickle of a lost soul or two. Keeps the story going I guess.

[JoeTheWanderer]

Such a nice and uncomplicated write-up of such a nice and uncomplicated ride. I really enjoyed reading it - the photographs were a welcome bonus.

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

The next part of the journey (Masterton to Pongaroa) was going to be unknown territory and on a road I have never been on. I was looking forward to it.

I can relate to this. Whenever I go out on weekend rides I try and seek out roads that I have never been on. This is usually done by spending the night before the ride on Google Maps trying to figure out a nice "unexplored" route.

[devilking]

Nicely written, thank you so much.

Made me remember the fond memories of my trip to NZ 7 years back. We spent only 2 days in North Island and drove from Auckland till Rotorua but did not have the time to make it down south till Wellington.

We spent more time in South Island and were able to visit Milford Sound, Queenstown, Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Stayed in quaint little towns like Moana and Te Anau.

Next time I come to NZ I plan to rent an RV and go camping.

You are truly lucky to live in one of the most beautiful countries in the world.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by devilking

We spent more time in South Island and were able to visit Milford Sound, Queenstown, Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Stayed in quaint little towns like Moana and Te Anau.

Skipping Wellington is okay. As long as you have seen a little bit of the North Island, that will do. I tell everyone to see a little bit of the North Island on their visit as it offers a different kind of beauty that can also be appreciated. On a holiday, I can understand that everyone will be time strapped so you cannot do it all.

Glad that you went down to Te Anau and Franz Josef. We were there last year and just after covid. We did not stay at Te Anau. We kept our base as Fiordland National Park and moved around from there to Milford and surrounding areas. Both these places are going through hell due to lack of visitors, local and International. Franz Josef is in trouble and many motels are closed down for good. We were the only guests at the Fiordland National park lodge and this was during school holiday, when everyone is out and about. It was on the day we checked out when another couple and family checked in. The restaurant was not operational too as they could not afford to keep a chef on site.

Tourism has taken a huge hit on the economy and New Zealand depends heavily on International travelers. Even a busy town like Queenstown, the motels and hotels are probably <50% occupied during holiday season. Sad state of affairs.

[devilking]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Tourism has taken a huge hit on the economy and New Zealand depends heavily on International travelers. Even a busy town like Queenstown, the motels and hotels are probably <50% occupied during holiday season.

Sad to hear that. Hope things improve soon.

Indians prefer holidaying in Europe but NZ has something to offer to everyone. Rather it has everything to offer. Beaches, mountains, glaciers, desert, wildlife. Would love to see more BHPians going on road trips throughout the country and sharing their experiences.